Alternator/Voltage Regulator problem
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09-10-2008, 04:18
Post: #1
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Alternator/Voltage Regulator problem
I am having an intermittent problem that started about 3 weeks ago.
Sometimes, when starting the engine, my alternator pegs at maximum output (300 amps) and the coach batteries peg the gauge at maximum voltage charge (18 volts). The cranking batteries charge shows only 12 volts when this happens which indicates to me they aren't charging at all . If I shut down and restart the engine several times, the alternator and the charging voltage on the coach batteries and engine cranking batteries eventually will work correctly. Normally, when starting this coach, the engine starts and the alternator goes to 300 amps and then drops quickly to normal output (30 to 40 amps) and the coach batteries, as well as the engine cranking batteries, charge at their normal level (about 14 volts). The engine is a Detroit Series 60 with the large alternator. I would appreciate information on what should be done to identify and correct this problem. Royal Washburn '97 43'WB |
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09-10-2008, 04:57
Post: #2
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Alternator/Voltage Regulator problem
Check the regulator
Stephen 77fc35 --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bbwlwb88" wrote: > > I am having an intermittent problem that started about 3 weeks ago. > Sometimes, when starting the engine, my alternator pegs at maximum > output (300 amps) and the coach batteries peg the gauge at maximum > voltage charge (18 volts). The cranking batteries charge shows only 12 > volts when this happens which indicates to me they aren't charging at > all . If I shut down and restart the engine several times, the > alternator and the charging voltage on the coach batteries and engine > cranking batteries eventually will work correctly. Normally, when > starting this coach, the engine starts and the alternator goes to 300 > amps and then drops quickly to normal output (30 to 40 amps) and the > coach batteries, as well as the engine cranking batteries, charge at > their normal level (about 14 volts). The engine is a Detroit Series 60 > with the large alternator. > > I would appreciate information on what should be done to identify and > correct this problem. > > Royal Washburn > '97 43'WB > |
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09-10-2008, 07:19
Post: #3
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Alternator/Voltage Regulator problem
if there is a reading with engine off and key on, it may be a gauge
ground prob. Greg 94ptCalif --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles" > > Check the regulator > > Stephen 77fc35 > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bbwlwb88" > wrote: > > > > I am having an intermittent problem that started about 3 weeks ago. > > Sometimes, when starting the engine, my alternator pegs at maximum > > output (300 amps) and the coach batteries peg the gauge at maximum > > voltage charge (18 volts). The cranking batteries charge shows only 12 > > volts when this happens which indicates to me they aren't charging at > > all . If I shut down and restart the engine several times, the > > alternator and the charging voltage on the coach batteries and engine > > cranking batteries eventually will work correctly. Normally, when > > starting this coach, the engine starts and the alternator goes to 300 > > amps and then drops quickly to normal output (30 to 40 amps) and the > > coach batteries, as well as the engine cranking batteries, charge at > > their normal level (about 14 volts). The engine is a Detroit Series 60 > > with the large alternator. > > > > I would appreciate information on what should be done to identify and > > correct this problem. > > > > Royal Washburn > > '97 43'WB > > > |
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09-10-2008, 13:40
Post: #4
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Alternator/Voltage Regulator problem
Royal, I had the same problem a few months back
The alternator tached to 300 amps. The engine batts went down to 11V. The Coach Batts. went up to 15.5V. The check engine light came on. I'm happy this was only the bi-monthly 50 mile drive around the block! The roadside fix, jumper cables from the engine Batts. to the house Batts. It bypasses the solenoid, It got me home without frying anything. I just found these relays, Eaton / Cutler-Hammer # 6041H105 for > $115.35 > > http://www.masaero.com Kurt Horvath PT-42 WLWB 10AC --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles" > > Check the regulator > > Stephen 77fc35 > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bbwlwb88" > wrote: > > > > I am having an intermittent problem that started about 3 weeks ago. > > Sometimes, when starting the engine, my alternator pegs at maximum > > output (300 amps) and the coach batteries peg the gauge at maximum > > voltage charge (18 volts). The cranking batteries charge shows only 12 > > volts when this happens which indicates to me they aren't charging at > > all . If I shut down and restart the engine several times, the > > alternator and the charging voltage on the coach batteries and engine > > cranking batteries eventually will work correctly. Normally, when > > starting this coach, the engine starts and the alternator goes to 300 > > amps and then drops quickly to normal output (30 to 40 amps) and the > > coach batteries, as well as the engine cranking batteries, charge at > > their normal level (about 14 volts). The engine is a Detroit Series 60 > > with the large alternator. > > > > I would appreciate information on what should be done to identify and > > correct this problem. > > > > Royal Washburn > > '97 43'WB > > > |
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09-12-2008, 08:15
Post: #5
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Alternator/Voltage Regulator problem
Thanks for the roadside fix tip. You mentioned bypassing the
solenoid but did you have to replace it to stop the problem? You also mentioned 3 relays but I wasn't clear on whether you had to replace them or where they are located. Royal Washburn 97 43'WL --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath" > > > Royal, I had the same problem a few months back > > The alternator tached to 300 amps. The engine batts went down to 11V. > The Coach Batts. went up to 15.5V. The check engine light came on. > > I'm happy this was only the bi-monthly 50 mile drive around the block! > > The roadside fix, jumper cables from the engine Batts. to the house > Batts. It bypasses the solenoid, It got me home without frying > anything. > > I just found these relays, Eaton / Cutler-Hammer # 6041H105 for > > $115.35 > > > > http://www.masaero.com > > Kurt Horvath > PT-42 WLWB > 10AC > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles" > > > > > Check the regulator > > > > Stephen 77fc35 > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bbwlwb88" > > wrote: > > > > > > I am having an intermittent problem that started about 3 weeks > ago. > > > Sometimes, when starting the engine, my alternator pegs at > maximum > > > output (300 amps) and the coach batteries peg the gauge at > maximum > > > voltage charge (18 volts). The cranking batteries charge shows > only 12 > > > volts when this happens which indicates to me they aren't > charging at > > > all . If I shut down and restart the engine several times, the > > > alternator and the charging voltage on the coach batteries and > engine > > > cranking batteries eventually will work correctly. Normally, > when > > > starting this coach, the engine starts and the alternator goes to > 300 > > > amps and then drops quickly to normal output (30 to 40 amps) and > the > > > coach batteries, as well as the engine cranking batteries, charge > at > > > their normal level (about 14 volts). The engine is a Detroit > Series 60 > > > with the large alternator. > > > > > > I would appreciate information on what should be done to identify > and > > > correct this problem. > > > > > > Royal Washburn > > > '97 43'WB > > > > > > |
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09-12-2008, 12:33
Post: #6
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Alternator/Voltage Regulator problem
Royal,
Yes I did have to replace the relay/solenoid. It did fix the problem. Generally they are expensive and hard to find $400.00 PLUS $'S. I found a great source, after I bought mine somewhere else--- Eaton / Cutler-Hammer # 6041H105 for $115.35 The company is Mas Aero East Coast Headquarters 5330 Spectrum Drive Frederick, MD 21703 (T) 301-631-8400 Toll Free: 800-489-0439 (F) 301-631-8425 http://www.masaero.com It's not hard to replace. Remove power from the relay/solenoid, just follow the ground to the frame and unhook it then follow the hot, (RED), to the shunt just below the relay. take all the wires off. Remove bad relay/solenoid then just reverse the process and you should be good to go. I did the swap myself and I'm not that happy working with Electricity of any kind. If you need more help just ask these guys will fill in the gaps. Kurt Horvath 95 PT-42 10AC WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bbwlwb88" > > Thanks for the roadside fix tip. You mentioned bypassing the > solenoid but did you have to replace it to stop the problem? You > also mentioned 3 relays but I wasn't clear on whether you had to > replace them or where they are located. > > Royal Washburn > 97 43'WL > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath" > > > > > > > Royal, I had the same problem a few months back > > > > The alternator tached to 300 amps. The engine batts went down to > 11V. > > The Coach Batts. went up to 15.5V. The check engine light came on. > > > > I'm happy this was only the bi-monthly 50 mile drive around the > block! > > > > The roadside fix, jumper cables from the engine Batts. to the house > > Batts. It bypasses the solenoid, It got me home without frying > > anything. > > > > I just found these relays, Eaton / Cutler-Hammer # 6041H105 for > > > $115.35 > > > > > > http://www.masaero.com > > > > Kurt Horvath > > PT-42 WLWB > > 10AC > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles" > > > > > > > > Check the regulator > > > > > > Stephen 77fc35 > > > > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bbwlwb88" > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > I am having an intermittent problem that started about 3 weeks > > ago. > > > > Sometimes, when starting the engine, my alternator pegs at > > maximum > > > > output (300 amps) and the coach batteries peg the gauge at > > maximum > > > > voltage charge (18 volts). The cranking batteries charge shows > > only 12 > > > > volts when this happens which indicates to me they aren't > > charging at > > > > all . If I shut down and restart the engine several times, the > > > > alternator and the charging voltage on the coach batteries and > > engine > > > > cranking batteries eventually will work correctly. Normally, > > when > > > > starting this coach, the engine starts and the alternator goes > to > > 300 > > > > amps and then drops quickly to normal output (30 to 40 amps) > and > > the > > > > coach batteries, as well as the engine cranking batteries, > charge > > at > > > > their normal level (about 14 volts). The engine is a Detroit > > Series 60 > > > > with the large alternator. > > > > > > > > I would appreciate information on what should be done to > identify > > and > > > > correct this problem. > > > > > > > > Royal Washburn > > > > '97 43'WB > > > > > > > > > > |
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09-13-2008, 00:37
Post: #7
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Alternator/Voltage Regulator problem
Kurt, thanks again for your help and for the additional info.
Royal Washburn 97 43'WL --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath" > > > > Royal, > > Yes I did have to replace the relay/solenoid. It did fix the problem. > Generally they are expensive and hard to find $400.00 PLUS $'S. I > found a great source, after I bought mine somewhere else--- > Eaton / Cutler-Hammer # 6041H105 for $115.35 > The company is Mas Aero > East Coast Headquarters > 5330 Spectrum Drive > Frederick, MD 21703 > (T) 301-631-8400 > Toll Free: 800-489-0439 > (F) 301-631-8425 > http://www.masaero.com > It's not hard to replace. Remove power from the relay/solenoid, just > follow the ground to the frame and unhook it then follow the hot, > (RED), to the shunt just below the relay. take all the wires off. > Remove bad relay/solenoid then just reverse the process and you > should be good to go. I did the swap myself and I'm not that happy > working with Electricity of any kind. If you need more help just ask > these guys will fill in the gaps. > Kurt Horvath > 95 PT-42 > 10AC > > > > WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bbwlwb88" > > > > Thanks for the roadside fix tip. You mentioned bypassing the > > solenoid but did you have to replace it to stop the problem? You > > also mentioned 3 relays but I wasn't clear on whether you had to > > replace them or where they are located. > > > > Royal Washburn > > 97 43'WL > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath" > > > > > > > > > > > Royal, I had the same problem a few months back > > > > > > The alternator tached to 300 amps. The engine batts went down to > > 11V. > > > The Coach Batts. went up to 15.5V. The check engine light came on. > > > > > > I'm happy this was only the bi-monthly 50 mile drive around the > > block! > > > > > > The roadside fix, jumper cables from the engine Batts. to the > house > > > Batts. It bypasses the solenoid, It got me home without frying > > > anything. > > > > > > I just found these relays, Eaton / Cutler-Hammer # 6041H105 for > > > > $115.35 > > > > > > > > http://www.masaero.com > > > > > > Kurt Horvath > > > PT-42 WLWB > > > 10AC > > > > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles" > > > > > > > > > > > Check the regulator > > > > > > > > Stephen 77fc35 > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bbwlwb88" > > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > I am having an intermittent problem that started about 3 > weeks > > > ago. > > > > > Sometimes, when starting the engine, my alternator pegs at > > > maximum > > > > > output (300 amps) and the coach batteries peg the gauge at > > > maximum > > > > > voltage charge (18 volts). The cranking batteries charge > shows > > > only 12 > > > > > volts when this happens which indicates to me they aren't > > > charging at > > > > > all . If I shut down and restart the engine several times, > the > > > > > alternator and the charging voltage on the coach batteries > and > > > engine > > > > > cranking batteries eventually will work correctly. Normally, > > > when > > > > > starting this coach, the engine starts and the alternator > goes > > to > > > 300 > > > > > amps and then drops quickly to normal output (30 to 40 amps) > > and > > > the > > > > > coach batteries, as well as the engine cranking batteries, > > charge > > > at > > > > > their normal level (about 14 volts). The engine is a Detroit > > > Series 60 > > > > > with the large alternator. > > > > > > > > > > I would appreciate information on what should be done to > > identify > > > and > > > > > correct this problem. > > > > > > > > > > Royal Washburn > > > > > '97 43'WB > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
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