I am having an intermittent problem that started about 3 weeks ago.
Sometimes, when starting the engine, my alternator pegs at maximum
output (300 amps) and the coach batteries peg the gauge at maximum
voltage charge (18 volts). The cranking batteries charge shows only 12
volts when this happens which indicates to me they aren't charging at
all . If I shut down and restart the engine several times, the
alternator and the charging voltage on the coach batteries and engine
cranking batteries eventually will work correctly. Normally, when
starting this coach, the engine starts and the alternator goes to 300
amps and then drops quickly to normal output (30 to 40 amps) and the
coach batteries, as well as the engine cranking batteries, charge at
their normal level (about 14 volts). The engine is a Detroit Series 60
with the large alternator.
I would appreciate information on what should be done to identify and
correct this problem.
Royal Washburn
'97 43'WB
if there is a reading with engine off and key on, it may be a gauge
ground prob.
Greg 94ptCalif
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles"
wrote:
>
> Check the regulator
>
> Stephen 77fc35
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bbwlwb88"
> wrote:
> >
> > I am having an intermittent problem that started about 3 weeks
ago.
> > Sometimes, when starting the engine, my alternator pegs at
maximum
> > output (300 amps) and the coach batteries peg the gauge at
maximum
> > voltage charge (18 volts). The cranking batteries charge shows
only 12
> > volts when this happens which indicates to me they aren't
charging at
> > all . If I shut down and restart the engine several times, the
> > alternator and the charging voltage on the coach batteries and
engine
> > cranking batteries eventually will work correctly. Normally,
when
> > starting this coach, the engine starts and the alternator goes to
300
> > amps and then drops quickly to normal output (30 to 40 amps) and
the
> > coach batteries, as well as the engine cranking batteries, charge
at
> > their normal level (about 14 volts). The engine is a Detroit
Series 60
> > with the large alternator.
> >
> > I would appreciate information on what should be done to identify
and
> > correct this problem.
> >
> > Royal Washburn
> > '97 43'WB
> >
>
Royal, I had the same problem a few months back
The alternator tached to 300 amps. The engine batts went down to 11V.
The Coach Batts. went up to 15.5V. The check engine light came on.
I'm happy this was only the bi-monthly 50 mile drive around the block!
The roadside fix, jumper cables from the engine Batts. to the house
Batts. It bypasses the solenoid, It got me home without frying
anything.
I just found these relays, Eaton / Cutler-Hammer # 6041H105 for
> $115.35
>
>
http://www.masaero.com
Kurt Horvath
PT-42 WLWB
10AC
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles"
wrote:
>
> Check the regulator
>
> Stephen 77fc35
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bbwlwb88"
> wrote:
> >
> > I am having an intermittent problem that started about 3 weeks
ago.
> > Sometimes, when starting the engine, my alternator pegs at
maximum
> > output (300 amps) and the coach batteries peg the gauge at
maximum
> > voltage charge (18 volts). The cranking batteries charge shows
only 12
> > volts when this happens which indicates to me they aren't
charging at
> > all . If I shut down and restart the engine several times, the
> > alternator and the charging voltage on the coach batteries and
engine
> > cranking batteries eventually will work correctly. Normally,
when
> > starting this coach, the engine starts and the alternator goes to
300
> > amps and then drops quickly to normal output (30 to 40 amps) and
the
> > coach batteries, as well as the engine cranking batteries, charge
at
> > their normal level (about 14 volts). The engine is a Detroit
Series 60
> > with the large alternator.
> >
> > I would appreciate information on what should be done to identify
and
> > correct this problem.
> >
> > Royal Washburn
> > '97 43'WB
> >
>
Thanks for the roadside fix tip. You mentioned bypassing the
solenoid but did you have to replace it to stop the problem? You
also mentioned 3 relays but I wasn't clear on whether you had to
replace them or where they are located.
Royal Washburn
97 43'WL
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath"
wrote:
>
>
> Royal, I had the same problem a few months back
>
> The alternator tached to 300 amps. The engine batts went down to
11V.
> The Coach Batts. went up to 15.5V. The check engine light came on.
>
> I'm happy this was only the bi-monthly 50 mile drive around the
block!
>
> The roadside fix, jumper cables from the engine Batts. to the house
> Batts. It bypasses the solenoid, It got me home without frying
> anything.
>
> I just found these relays, Eaton / Cutler-Hammer # 6041H105 for
> > $115.35
> >
> > http://www.masaero.com
>
> Kurt Horvath
> PT-42 WLWB
> 10AC
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles"
> wrote:
> >
> > Check the regulator
> >
> > Stephen 77fc35
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bbwlwb88"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I am having an intermittent problem that started about 3 weeks
> ago.
> > > Sometimes, when starting the engine, my alternator pegs at
> maximum
> > > output (300 amps) and the coach batteries peg the gauge at
> maximum
> > > voltage charge (18 volts). The cranking batteries charge shows
> only 12
> > > volts when this happens which indicates to me they aren't
> charging at
> > > all . If I shut down and restart the engine several times, the
> > > alternator and the charging voltage on the coach batteries and
> engine
> > > cranking batteries eventually will work correctly. Normally,
> when
> > > starting this coach, the engine starts and the alternator goes
to
> 300
> > > amps and then drops quickly to normal output (30 to 40 amps)
and
> the
> > > coach batteries, as well as the engine cranking batteries,
charge
> at
> > > their normal level (about 14 volts). The engine is a Detroit
> Series 60
> > > with the large alternator.
> > >
> > > I would appreciate information on what should be done to
identify
> and
> > > correct this problem.
> > >
> > > Royal Washburn
> > > '97 43'WB
> > >
> >
>
Royal,
Yes I did have to replace the relay/solenoid. It did fix the problem.
Generally they are expensive and hard to find $400.00 PLUS $'S. I
found a great source, after I bought mine somewhere else---
Eaton / Cutler-Hammer # 6041H105 for $115.35
The company is Mas Aero
East Coast Headquarters
5330 Spectrum Drive
Frederick, MD 21703
(T) 301-631-8400
Toll Free: 800-489-0439
(F) 301-631-8425
http://www.masaero.com
It's not hard to replace. Remove power from the relay/solenoid, just
follow the ground to the frame and unhook it then follow the hot,
(RED), to the shunt just below the relay. take all the wires off.
Remove bad relay/solenoid then just reverse the process and you
should be good to go. I did the swap myself and I'm not that happy
working with Electricity of any kind. If you need more help just ask
these guys will fill in the gaps.
Kurt Horvath
95 PT-42
10AC
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bbwlwb88"
wrote:
>
> Thanks for the roadside fix tip. You mentioned bypassing the
> solenoid but did you have to replace it to stop the problem? You
> also mentioned 3 relays but I wasn't clear on whether you had to
> replace them or where they are located.
>
> Royal Washburn
> 97 43'WL
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath"
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Royal, I had the same problem a few months back
> >
> > The alternator tached to 300 amps. The engine batts went down to
> 11V.
> > The Coach Batts. went up to 15.5V. The check engine light came on.
> >
> > I'm happy this was only the bi-monthly 50 mile drive around the
> block!
> >
> > The roadside fix, jumper cables from the engine Batts. to the
house
> > Batts. It bypasses the solenoid, It got me home without frying
> > anything.
> >
> > I just found these relays, Eaton / Cutler-Hammer # 6041H105 for
> > > $115.35
> > >
> > > http://www.masaero.com
> >
> > Kurt Horvath
> > PT-42 WLWB
> > 10AC
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Check the regulator
> > >
> > > Stephen 77fc35
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bbwlwb88"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I am having an intermittent problem that started about 3
weeks
> > ago.
> > > > Sometimes, when starting the engine, my alternator pegs at
> > maximum
> > > > output (300 amps) and the coach batteries peg the gauge at
> > maximum
> > > > voltage charge (18 volts). The cranking batteries charge
shows
> > only 12
> > > > volts when this happens which indicates to me they aren't
> > charging at
> > > > all . If I shut down and restart the engine several times,
the
> > > > alternator and the charging voltage on the coach batteries
and
> > engine
> > > > cranking batteries eventually will work correctly. Normally,
> > when
> > > > starting this coach, the engine starts and the alternator
goes
> to
> > 300
> > > > amps and then drops quickly to normal output (30 to 40 amps)
> and
> > the
> > > > coach batteries, as well as the engine cranking batteries,
> charge
> > at
> > > > their normal level (about 14 volts). The engine is a Detroit
> > Series 60
> > > > with the large alternator.
> > > >
> > > > I would appreciate information on what should be done to
> identify
> > and
> > > > correct this problem.
> > > >
> > > > Royal Washburn
> > > > '97 43'WB
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Kurt, thanks again for your help and for the additional info.
Royal Washburn
97 43'WL
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath"
wrote:
>
>
>
> Royal,
>
> Yes I did have to replace the relay/solenoid. It did fix the
problem.
> Generally they are expensive and hard to find $400.00 PLUS $'S. I
> found a great source, after I bought mine somewhere else---
> Eaton / Cutler-Hammer # 6041H105 for $115.35
> The company is Mas Aero
> East Coast Headquarters
> 5330 Spectrum Drive
> Frederick, MD 21703
> (T) 301-631-8400
> Toll Free: 800-489-0439
> (F) 301-631-8425
> http://www.masaero.com
> It's not hard to replace. Remove power from the relay/solenoid,
just
> follow the ground to the frame and unhook it then follow the hot,
> (RED), to the shunt just below the relay. take all the wires off.
> Remove bad relay/solenoid then just reverse the process and you
> should be good to go. I did the swap myself and I'm not that happy
> working with Electricity of any kind. If you need more help just
ask
> these guys will fill in the gaps.
> Kurt Horvath
> 95 PT-42
> 10AC
>
>
>
> WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bbwlwb88" wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for the roadside fix tip. You mentioned bypassing the
> > solenoid but did you have to replace it to stop the problem? You
> > also mentioned 3 relays but I wasn't clear on whether you had to
> > replace them or where they are located.
> >
> > Royal Washburn
> > 97 43'WL
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Royal, I had the same problem a few months back
> > >
> > > The alternator tached to 300 amps. The engine batts went down
to
> > 11V.
> > > The Coach Batts. went up to 15.5V. The check engine light came
on.
> > >
> > > I'm happy this was only the bi-monthly 50 mile drive around the
> > block!
> > >
> > > The roadside fix, jumper cables from the engine Batts. to the
> house
> > > Batts. It bypasses the solenoid, It got me home without frying
> > > anything.
> > >
> > > I just found these relays, Eaton / Cutler-Hammer # 6041H105 for
> > > > $115.35
> > > >
> > > > http://www.masaero.com
> > >
> > > Kurt Horvath
> > > PT-42 WLWB
> > > 10AC
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Check the regulator
> > > >
> > > > Stephen 77fc35
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bbwlwb88"
>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I am having an intermittent problem that started about 3
> weeks
> > > ago.
> > > > > Sometimes, when starting the engine, my alternator pegs at
> > > maximum
> > > > > output (300 amps) and the coach batteries peg the gauge at
> > > maximum
> > > > > voltage charge (18 volts). The cranking batteries charge
> shows
> > > only 12
> > > > > volts when this happens which indicates to me they aren't
> > > charging at
> > > > > all . If I shut down and restart the engine several times,
> the
> > > > > alternator and the charging voltage on the coach batteries
> and
> > > engine
> > > > > cranking batteries eventually will work correctly.
Normally,
> > > when
> > > > > starting this coach, the engine starts and the alternator
> goes
> > to
> > > 300
> > > > > amps and then drops quickly to normal output (30 to 40
amps)
> > and
> > > the
> > > > > coach batteries, as well as the engine cranking batteries,
> > charge
> > > at
> > > > > their normal level (about 14 volts). The engine is a
Detroit
> > > Series 60
> > > > > with the large alternator.
> > > > >
> > > > > I would appreciate information on what should be done to
> > identify
> > > and
> > > > > correct this problem.
> > > > >
> > > > > Royal Washburn
> > > > > '97 43'WB
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>