Maiden Voyage Complete!!!

[Stephen Birtles]

Give me a call 1 888 668 4288
stephen
dupreeproducts.com




--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "coreyg67" wrote:
>
> More questions.
>
> I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked position, so
every time we turn
> right, the drawers come flying open. Is there any trick to
repairing the guides, or are
> they a replace only type item?
>
> I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement bulbs for
the coach. I have
> thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant find
any light bulb info.
> Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for lights? I
need just about every
> bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in
between. I'm hoping to
> get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at once
rather than make 6
> trips to the automotive supply house.
>
> Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything and get
multiple keys to
> the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am going
to spend the
> afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps thread
that is going around. I
> noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I
figure a good cleaning
> is in order.
>
> Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be? I am
only getting 17psi
> on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would be
closer to 24-25psi.
>
> Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!
>
> Corey and Jenni Graham
> 1996 PT 42'
> Prosper,TX
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
wrote:
> >
> >
> > On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:
> >
> > > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the front
> > > of the coach, replaced both
> > > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the sensors on
> > > the bay doors, best I
> > > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the ground had
> > > broken, but after fixing
> > > ground, no luck still.
> > > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was
> > > disconnected, all seems
> > > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather uncomfortable
> > > walking in and sleeping
> > > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need to
> > > figure this out.
> > >
> > > I will begin to list some of the other problems.
> > >
> > > 1. no key for safe,
> >
> > Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a locksmith to get
> > in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was famously
> > used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.
> >
> > > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door, although I
> > > can hear it trying.
> >
> > Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch. The
> > solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even the
least
> > amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose inside the
> > door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on that. Be
> > sure the door is tightly closed when you try.
> >
> > > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside compartment,
> > > although I can hear it
> > > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays
> >
> > See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays. The key
> > to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my coach.
> >
> > I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the inside
cover
> > on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) -- then clean
> > and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then (if you
can
> > hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's no sound,
> > then there might be a loose wire.
> >
> > The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was working)
> > and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons (5/6 and
> > 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then immediately
press
> > "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).
> >
> > > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great
> > ?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was told by the
> > previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".
> >
> > > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then other times
> > > it wont engage. It
> > > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake brake
> >
> > Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my Jake
> > brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is malfunctioning.
> > During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer on the
> > system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the DDEC
> > unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the fault in the
> > DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high settings).
> > The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.
> >
> > > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all the way
> > > around, rope light has
> > > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing
> >
> > Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were ok, but
> > the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the light
> > and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights are
> > probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be replaced. I
> > mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at night) and
> > once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.
> >
> > > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a broken
> > > valve, so I cant get good
> > > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to pressurize,
> > > by rigging the valve
> > > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.
> >
> > You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh water dump
> > valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual slide
> > valve behind the tall door.
> >
> > My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single variable
speed
> > pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion
tank. I
> > re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.
> >
> > I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com to
> > transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex tubing
> > and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread)
fitting
> > -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-plumb
the
> > drain valve.
> >
> > > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little afraid
> > > to mess something up.
> > >
> > Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already
working.
> > To use it:
> > turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash. That
> > allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the 2000
> > watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore power.
> >
> > Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-intuitive:
> > turn on AC for heat.)
> >
> > Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to a higher
> > temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming out of
> > various places. Under the galley and probably under the sofa. There
> > are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of the fans
> > may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the basement and
> > a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40 degrees) on
> > the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in freezing
> > temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and keep the
> > plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.
> >
> > There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One controls an
> > electric toe kick space heater the other controls the aquahot
> > (hydronic) heat.
> >
> > The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the side-
> > island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat). The
> > various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan noise,
> > depending.
> >
> > You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you should
> > hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just below the
A-H
> > that will get quite warm when the burner is running.
> >
> > The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives heat for
> > domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore power or on
> > the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if there's no
> > electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so you never
> > run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).
> >
> > The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric element
> > can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot at 16
> > gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the burner
running.
> >
> > When you're on the road, the A-H gets heat from the engine cooling
> > system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.
> >
> > You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area as I
> > recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service technician. The
A-H
> > should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some other
> > burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can explain more
> > about the care and operation of the unit.
> >
> > Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow container) on
> > the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is properly
> > filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk serious
> > (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the two years
> > I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any additional
> > coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60. (Note that
> > there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 -- do not
> > use regular automotive coolant.)
> >
> > The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour (if I
> > recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's not a big
> > drain on your fuel.
> >
> > >
> > > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is familiar
> > > with Bluebirds,
> > > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire coach
> > > with me and help with
> > > all my little questions.
> >
> > Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several folks who
> > can help you.
> >
> > Pete Masterson
> > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > El Sobrante CA
> > aeonix1@
> >
>