Door repairs

[David Brady]

Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a school bus

(with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite good enough

on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true automotive

style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the vehicle

rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the weather stripping

adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with it.



David

'02 LXi, NC



Pete Masterson wrote:

I've examined the door geometry very closely. It doesn't seem like
there's any real solution -- it appears to be a "feature" (as in
"that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")... When my weather
stripping was failing, the door was easier to close, but then there
were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the weather strip
(with a profile that was quite similar to the original) then the door
was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind noise was gone. 

I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to using a firm
hand when closing the door. It's not really an excessive amount of
force, but it is rather more than is required for most vehicles. I
chalk it up to being a Blue Bird quirk.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:

Pete, 

That is exactly what happens on mine.  Very frustrating.  Also no real
way that anyone knows of to adjust it.



Brad Barton 00LXiDFW "bbartonwx@hotmail.com"

---

To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"

From: "aeonix1@mac.com"

Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700

Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs

I'll note that the door on my coach must
be shut with authority (like you mean it) or the automotive-type lock
won't latch properly. This was the situation with the original weather
stripping and with the weather stripping I installed. Once the
automotive latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt lines up
properly. 

If you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then
when the automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead bolt is
sufficient that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on which side of
the door you're on, you either have to pull or push on the door to
relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the solenoid will through
the bolt.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

Ryan, when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push on
the door to 

line up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as I
cant see or 

feel what is going on in the jamb.  I
think someone replaced the 

seal with a too ambitious foam/rubber  product.
fat seals endup 

causing the door operator to slam and place a hard turn on
the 

lock.  One other issue is that
the door on my 94 is alumnium and 

swells more than the steel frame in the sun. just some
things to 

consider with your project

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