50a electrical plugs?

[jim riordan]

Ryan,

The coach plug is a hard find, I got one at west maines but I had to remove nubs on the plug to get it to fit..

Jim Riordan

Ryan Wright wrote:

Thank you for all of the replies.

Ernie: Re-using the original ends to make a longer cord is a good
idea. I may go ahead and do that.

Pete: You said, "The 50 amp plug is a range plug." That end is easy -
I'm looking for the other end, the part that goes into the
bird.
Appears to be a fairly standard 50 amp twist-lock except the ones I've
found have too thick an exterior body to fit! Does anyone know where I
can find a new one of these ends?

Also, you asked what my concern is: I'm using a 50 amp extension cord
and don't want to, that basically sums it up. I'd rather have one
single cord that's long enough (50 feet) to get where I need to be.

Brad: I do have a permanent 50 amp outlet for the coach.
Unfortunately, when I park the coach the way I like it, the outlet is
near the front passenger side. So, I need a 50 foot cord to reach all
the way back and across to the coach's power input. I've considered
moving the outlet and still might go that route, but a long cord seems
easier.

Bruce: I sent a private email on the cord you're selling.

Thanks again, everyone.

-Ryan
'86 PT-40 8V92

[mrkane1952]

Ryan:

The 50 Amp receptacle on my coach recently burned up. The replacement
is a Bryant 7968 for my 85 PT40. (Bryant is owned by Hubbell now.)
The plug on the end of the cable which plugs into it is Bryant 7764.
By ordering this pair a jumper could be constructed. Or you could
also purchase a receptacle as used on the shore power pedestal and
construct a box to go between two standard 50 A. BB power cords.

A local electrical supply company was able to order the Hubbell parts
for me.

M.R.Kane
1985 PT40
currently Pilot Point, TX




--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
wrote:
>
>

snip

> I'm looking for the other end, the part that goes into the bird.
> Appears to be a fairly standard 50 amp twist-lock except the ones I've
> found have too thick an exterior body to fit! Does anyone know where I
> can find a new one of these ends?
>

snip

>
> -Ryan
> '86 PT-40 8V92
>

[mbulriss]

Ryan,

I think you said in a prior post that it says Crouse-Hinds on your
connector, but I thought those original connectors were all Hubbell.
Did you check the Hubbell site that Joe Garner mentioned in message #
32839?
https://www.hubbellnet.com/max_htm/tech_...front.html or
https://www.hubbellnet.com/max_htm/tech_...k.html#TOP

Or take it in to your local W.W.Grainger supply house and let them
match it up. Out of curiosity, I went to our manufacturing office and
looked up the Grainger catalog. A Hubble Marine rated connector body
(3 pole, 4 wire, 50A, 125/250V) is Hubble # HBL63CM64 and Grainger
stock # 3D977 $165.50 (ouch).

Good luck.

Mike Bulriss
1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
San Antonio, TX


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
wrote:
>
> Thank you for all of the replies.
>
> Ernie: Re-using the original ends to make a longer cord is a good
> idea. I may go ahead and do that.
>
> Pete: You said, "The 50 amp plug is a range plug." That end is easy -
> I'm looking for the other end, the part that goes into the bird.
> Appears to be a fairly standard 50 amp twist-lock except the ones I've
> found have too thick an exterior body to fit! Does anyone know where I
> can find a new one of these ends?
>
> Also, you asked what my concern is: I'm using a 50 amp extension cord
> and don't want to, that basically sums it up. I'd rather have one
> single cord that's long enough (50 feet) to get where I need to be.
>
> Brad: I do have a permanent 50 amp outlet for the coach.
> Unfortunately, when I park the coach the way I like it, the outlet is
> near the front passenger side. So, I need a 50 foot cord to reach all
> the way back and across to the coach's power input. I've considered
> moving the outlet and still might go that route, but a long cord seems
> easier.
>
> Bruce: I sent a private email on the cord you're selling.
>
> Thanks again, everyone.
>
> -Ryan
> '86 PT-40 8V92
>

[birdshill123]

This thread is getting a little confusing. The cord end that plugs
into a power pedestal is the same as a range plug. The end that BB
uses on your MH is as described by Mike Bulriss. Mine was a Hart Lock,
now Cooper. Part # is 7764. I was able to obtain one at a large
electrical wholesale and it was well under $100. Although the original
was all metal the new one is nylon and metal. These are strange plugs
as the outer shell provides the path for ground. The plug has only 3
tabs.


Bruce
1988 FC35

[Pete Masterson]

On Apr 14, 2008, at 10:12 AM, Ryan Wright wrote:

Pete: You said, "The 50 amp plug is a range plug." That end is easy -

I'm looking for the other end, the part that goes into the bird.

Appears to be a fairly standard 50 amp twist-lock except the ones I've

found have too thick an exterior body to fit! Does anyone know where I

can find a new one of these ends?

Ok... things are different on my 'bird. (Indeed, the "coach" end of the cord just disappears behind a panel that's screwed shut. I presume it attaches to some lugs in a junction box.)

Also, you asked what my concern is: I'm using a 50 amp extension cord

and don't want to, that basically sums it up. I'd rather have one

single cord that's long enough (50 feet) to get where I need to be.

Brad: I do have a permanent 50 amp outlet for the coach.

Unfortunately, when I park the coach the way I like it, the outlet is

near the front passenger side. So, I need a 50 foot cord to reach all

the way back and across to the coach's power input. I've considered

moving the outlet and still might go that route, but a long cord seems

easier.

My question was, Do you really need 50 amps? When my coach is parked, I use a "dog-bone" 30/50 amp connector to the coach cord, and use a 30 amp "RV plug" extension cord. It provides power to both legs of the wiring in the coach and sufficient power from most needs while the coach is parked. The 30 amp extension cords are considerably less expensive. The longest 50 amp cords I've seen commercially available are 30 feet and the 30 amp cords are readily available at 50 feet. 

Of course, moving the outlet would probably be the most desirable solution, but probably the one with the largest hassle factor.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

[Ryan Wright]

More thanks for the continued replies. So, sounds like Hubbell 7764 is
the right one, though it does look a little long. Cooper also makes a
7764 plug; it looks too fat, but it might work, I'll have to dig up
the spec sheets on both plugs and measure. I'm assuming the original,
metal plug that came on our factory cords is no longer available? Mine
actually says "Arrow-Hart" on it.

Bruce, does your Cooper #7764 fit well, and can you still close the
electrical compartment door (at least, most of the way?) with it
plugged in? If so, that sounds like what I want.

Pete:

> My question was, Do you really need 50 amps?

Oh, absolutely. I spend a lot of time in my coach. I use it as an
extension to my house. I'm in it from 1 to 8 hours a day, working on
the computer, or watching a movie, or just BSing with friends. I also
sleep it in occasionally, cook food in it fairly regularly, etc. It's
like my own little bachelor pad, untouched by the women folk in my
life. ;-)

So, I need the full power to run the A/C, heaters, microwave, the
whole works, depending on the season, etc.

> Of course, moving the outlet would probably be the most desirable solution,
> but probably the one with the largest hassle factor.

Yeah... I'm leaning toward just making a custom 50 amp cable. I don't
personally see the difference between 20 feet of romex + 30 feet of
cable, or 50 feet of cable. If they're the same gauge of wire, it
shouldn't matter, and it's a lot easier to just buy plug ends and a
long cable and make my own than it's going to be to move the outlet.


-Ryan

[birdshill123]

Hi:

The Cooper 7764 fits perfectly. No larger than the original. The door
closes just fine.


Bruce
1988 FC35

[sfedeli3]

Hi Ryan,

I used a Levitton 7764-C plug on the end of the cord and it works
great. Locks tight and securely grounds. You can get them from
Galesburg electic's website. Around $80.

Shane Fedeli
85PT40
Hershey, PA

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
wrote:
>
> More thanks for the continued replies. So, sounds like Hubbell 7764 is
> the right one, though it does look a little long. Cooper also makes a
> 7764 plug; it looks too fat, but it might work, I'll have to dig up
> the spec sheets on both plugs and measure. I'm assuming the original,
> metal plug that came on our factory cords is no longer available? Mine
> actually says "Arrow-Hart" on it.
>
> Bruce, does your Cooper #7764 fit well, and can you still close the
> electrical compartment door (at least, most of the way?) with it
> plugged in? If so, that sounds like what I want.
>
> Pete:
>
> > My question was, Do you really need 50 amps?
>
> Oh, absolutely. I spend a lot of time in my coach. I use it as an
> extension to my house. I'm in it from 1 to 8 hours a day, working on
> the computer, or watching a movie, or just BSing with friends. I also
> sleep it in occasionally, cook food in it fairly regularly, etc. It's
> like my own little bachelor pad, untouched by the women folk in my
> life. ;-)
>
> So, I need the full power to run the A/C, heaters, microwave, the
> whole works, depending on the season, etc.
>
> > Of course, moving the outlet would probably be the most desirable
solution,
> > but probably the one with the largest hassle factor.
>
> Yeah... I'm leaning toward just making a custom 50 amp cable. I don't
> personally see the difference between 20 feet of romex + 30 feet of
> cable, or 50 feet of cable. If they're the same gauge of wire, it
> shouldn't matter, and it's a lot easier to just buy plug ends and a
> long cable and make my own than it's going to be to move the outlet.
>
>
> -Ryan
>

[Pete Masterson]

FWIW, when I was looking for some romex to install the 50 Amp surge protector, I could not find 4-wire in the appropriate size for 50 amps -- I had to get 4 individual wires (not a problem for my application). Of course, it may simply have been that the home center I was at was simply out of the right product at that time. 

Do note that romex should not be used where it is exposed to direct sunlight. The UV (from the sun) will breakdown the plastic sheathing, resulting in a potential shorts. The jute and paper inside the romex absorbs water, so it can't be used where it gets wet. You might be able to get away with THWN for use in wet or dry locations -- but the sun exposure remains a concern because PVC and/or Nylon (used in the outer covering) is still subject to UV exposure damage. The National Electrical Code requires buried wires and/or use of conduit for an exposed location.

50 Amp cable carries a _lot_ of electrical potential, so you do need to be very careful with your choices. Using romex (or romex-like products) for an extension cord may seem like a practical idea, but it obviously does not meet UL or NEC standards, because there are no commercial products that use romex-like products in this manner. 

Finally, you might 'get away' with using BX (armored) flexible conduit for your "extension cord", although I'd be concerned that direct sun exposure would overheat the wires. Obviously, driving over it with your coach is very likely to destroy it.

As for the 7764 plug, I have a recessed male plug in my electrical hook up compartment that looks rather like the 7764. I was told this is a "buddy plug" where I could tap into the generator output and get the full output my generator produces -- however, the over $100 cost of a plug (that I found in searching the Internet) has dissuaded me from buying one that I'd intended to use as a 'just in case' to provide power to certain appliances in my home should a power outage occur. So, my question is, Is that really an output plug?

(Since we've only had one extended (a few hours) power outage here in the past 25 years, needing the backup power from the generator seems fairly remote. -- and I can 'tap into' the coach 120 vac system, should the need arise, with extension cords fed from normal outlets -- that would be sufficient to keep the home refrigerator and freezer 'going' to prevent spoiled food. I already have sufficient extension cords to handle that possibility.)

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Apr 14, 2008, at 9:01 PM, Ryan Wright wrote:

More thanks for the continued replies. So, sounds like Hubbell 7764 is

the right one, though it does look a little long. Cooper also makes a

7764 plug; it looks too fat, but it might work, I'll have to dig up

the spec sheets on both plugs and measure. I'm assuming the original,

metal plug that came on our factory cords is no longer available? Mine

actually says "Arrow-Hart" on it.

<snip>

Of course, moving the outlet would probably be the most desirable solution,

but probably the one with the largest hassle factor.

Yeah... I'm leaning toward just making a custom 50 amp cable. I don't

personally see the difference between 20 feet of romex + 30 feet of

cable, or 50 feet of cable. If they're the same gauge of wire, it

shouldn't matter, and it's a lot easier to just buy plug ends and a

long cable and make my own than it's going to be to move the outlet.

[erniecarpet@...]

That's' correct. I have used that 50 foot cord for about a year now with no problems. Here in Montana, I have used my electric heaters, freeze protection heaters, microwave, water heater, etc, with no voltage problems at all.

Ernie Ekberg
83PT40
Livingston, Montana

--with more SNOW

yesterday- 75 degrees

---

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