Dash / chassis air conditioner on FC

[Alan]

Well, with it starting to get warm again in Texas, I'm contemplating
what to do with my Chassis a/c. I bought my 87FC35 last August and i
know that without the dash a/c operational, it gets hot up front in
the Texas summers.

Here's what i do know about my dash a/c.
1. York compressor is locked up. No big deal. I've got it off and
can put another one on.
2. Hoses on top of coach that connect the condensor to the fittings
that come out of the roof are gone. Again, not a big deal. I can
have those made easily.
3. Condensor will probably be fine if it is cleaned up and cleaned
out, but I understand I will probably want to replace it with a new
Red Dot condensor when I convert to r134A. Not too big of a deal,
just a few $$.
4. Hoses to compressor from evaporator and condensor are 20 years old
and could be bad. I"M WORRIED ABOUT THIS POTENTIAL PROBLEM.

So, here are my questions.

1.I visually inspected the hoses at the compressor. I couldn't see
any external cracks. BUT WHAT DO I DO IF I GET A NEW COMPRESSOR AND
CONDENSOR INSTALLED AND FIND OUT THEY ARE LEAKING, especially running
higher pressure r134a? I'd hate to spend a bunch of money (and time)
only to have an a/c that still doesn't work.
2. How do the hoses currently get from the engine compartment to the
overhead?
3. If I had to run new hoses, has anyone done that or seen that done
and where do i run them? Inside the bus (and where)?

Thanks!
Alan Johnson
87FC35

[fwernlein]

Alan, I had the same concerns when I did my dash AC. I decided to go
ahead and rely on the existing hoses as they were well protected
from exposure to UV/Ozone being run interior to the bus; that they
held a vacume; and that I saw no way to get them replaced easily, my
best thought was if needed run new lines up the windshield center
seam or along a side pillar and cover up with some trim material.
My AC hose guy pointed out that the possibility was that although
the hoses were 20 years old, they likely had not been in
actual "service and pressure load" for a big part of those 20
years....and had a even chance of working out OK.

I have enjoyed dash ac for two summers and love it. I just have to
live with the possibility of hose failure...all in all...i would
recommend not bending/flexing them, do a good flush, pressure test,
and if it the hoses hold...go with it. Someday I'll be doing phase
II (hose replacement), but I'll wait for it.

Frank
85FC33
Woodbridge, VA (snowing!!!)


ll.


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Alan"
wrote:
>
> Well, with it starting to get warm again in Texas, I'm
contemplating
> what to do with my Chassis a/c. I bought my 87FC35 last August
and i
> know that without the dash a/c operational, it gets hot up front in
> the Texas summers.
>
> Here's what i do know about my dash a/c.
> 1. York compressor is locked up. No big deal. I've got it off and
> can put another one on.
> 2. Hoses on top of coach that connect the condensor to the fittings
> that come out of the roof are gone. Again, not a big deal. I can
> have those made easily.
> 3. Condensor will probably be fine if it is cleaned up and cleaned
> out, but I understand I will probably want to replace it with a new
> Red Dot condensor when I convert to r134A. Not too big of a deal,
> just a few $$.
> 4. Hoses to compressor from evaporator and condensor are 20 years
old
> and could be bad. I"M WORRIED ABOUT THIS POTENTIAL PROBLEM.
>
> So, here are my questions.
>
> 1.I visually inspected the hoses at the compressor. I couldn't see
> any external cracks. BUT WHAT DO I DO IF I GET A NEW COMPRESSOR
AND
> CONDENSOR INSTALLED AND FIND OUT THEY ARE LEAKING, especially
running
> higher pressure r134a? I'd hate to spend a bunch of money (and
time)
> only to have an a/c that still doesn't work.
> 2. How do the hoses currently get from the engine compartment to
the
> overhead?
> 3. If I had to run new hoses, has anyone done that or seen that
done
> and where do i run them? Inside the bus (and where)?
>
> Thanks!
> Alan Johnson
> 87FC35
>

[birdshill123]

When I bought my 88 Bird other owners told me that the dash air in
these babies never works well. The PO had my unit at the factory in 04.
They installed a new compressor and believe it or not left it with R12.
We have used it driving through Texas in the low 90's as well as in
Mexico at the same temps. Works great to about 90 to 92. Beyond that we
use the roof air to supplement the cooling. It has never been charged
since 04 and still is OK.. I am fortunate that here in Mexico R12 is
still easily obtainable.

Bruce
1988 FC35

[Chuck Wheeler]

Since we only have the 210hp version I didn't want the power or heat load on
the engine. I put a 15,000btu ac on the front, the front vent aimed into
the overhead, and turn on the chassis ac fans to help with circulation.
This keeps us very comfortable. Because of Kathy's job we always seem to
travel at the wrong times, dead of winter and heat of summer. It does keep
all the systems exercised!



- Chuck Wheeler -

82 FC 31 SB

Fort Worth, TX

_____

From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alan
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 4:39 PM
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Dash / chassis air conditioner on FC



Well, with it starting to get warm again in Texas, I'm contemplating
what to do with my Chassis a/c. I bought my 87FC35 last August and i
know that without the dash a/c operational, it gets hot up front in
the Texas summers.

Here's what i do know about my dash a/c.
1. York compressor is locked up. No big deal. I've got it off and
can put another one on.
2. Hoses on top of coach that connect the condensor to the fittings
that come out of the roof are gone. Again, not a big deal. I can
have those made easily.
3. Condensor will probably be fine if it is cleaned up and cleaned
out, but I understand I will probably want to replace it with a new
Red Dot condensor when I convert to r134A. Not too big of a deal,
just a few $$.
4. Hoses to compressor from evaporator and condensor are 20 years old
and could be bad. I"M WORRIED ABOUT THIS POTENTIAL PROBLEM.

So, here are my questions.

1.I visually inspected the hoses at the compressor. I couldn't see
any external cracks. BUT WHAT DO I DO IF I GET A NEW COMPRESSOR AND
CONDENSOR INSTALLED AND FIND OUT THEY ARE LEAKING, especially running
higher pressure r134a? I'd hate to spend a bunch of money (and time)
only to have an a/c that still doesn't work.
2. How do the hoses currently get from the engine compartment to the
overhead?
3. If I had to run new hoses, has anyone done that or seen that done
and where do i run them? Inside the bus (and where)?

Thanks!
Alan Johnson
87FC35





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[putneyflash@...>]

Alan: i converted my 1983 FC-35 and kept the same condenser. On my BB the hoses
run from the engine compartment behind the right hand panel and up the right
hand column forward of the right hand glass.I don't think it would be to tough
to run new hoses, but why? you may get 4- 5 yeras out of them.
RE in Georgia 1983 FC-35
>
> From: "Alan"
> Date: 2007/03/07 Wed PM 05:39:05 EST
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Dash / chassis air conditioner on FC
>
> Well, with it starting to get warm again in Texas, I'm contemplating
> what to do with my Chassis a/c. I bought my 87FC35 last August and i
> know that without the dash a/c operational, it gets hot up front in
> the Texas summers.
>
> Here's what i do know about my dash a/c.
> 1. York compressor is locked up. No big deal. I've got it off and
> can put another one on.
> 2. Hoses on top of coach that connect the condensor to the fittings
> that come out of the roof are gone. Again, not a big deal. I can
> have those made easily.
> 3. Condensor will probably be fine if it is cleaned up and cleaned
> out, but I understand I will probably want to replace it with a new
> Red Dot condensor when I convert to r134A. Not too big of a deal,
> just a few $$.
> 4. Hoses to compressor from evaporator and condensor are 20 years old
> and could be bad. I"M WORRIED ABOUT THIS POTENTIAL PROBLEM.
>
> So, here are my questions.
>
> 1.I visually inspected the hoses at the compressor. I couldn't see
> any external cracks. BUT WHAT DO I DO IF I GET A NEW COMPRESSOR AND
> CONDENSOR INSTALLED AND FIND OUT THEY ARE LEAKING, especially running
> higher pressure r134a? I'd hate to spend a bunch of money (and time)
> only to have an a/c that still doesn't work.
> 2. How do the hoses currently get from the engine compartment to the
> overhead?
> 3. If I had to run new hoses, has anyone done that or seen that done
> and where do i run them? Inside the bus (and where)?
>
> Thanks!
> Alan Johnson
> 87FC35
>
>
>

[Pete Masterson]

The previous owner of my coach upgraded the chassis air to R134a --
but by the time I purchased it, the coolant had gone away after the
coach sat for months on a dealer's lot, unused. (Seals tend to dry
out under those conditions.) I had the system recharged.

The dash air is not highly effective at general cooling -- the roof
ACs are much better at that. However, especially when traveling into
the sun (while driving south during the day or west in the
afternoon), even when it is otherwise relatively cool, the "fishbowl"
at the front of the coach can be uncomfortably warm. That's when the
dash air can (and for me) does make a difference. In those
conditions, it puts just enough cooling right where it's needed -- no
need to fire up the generator and run the roof ACs.

So, is it worth restoring/updating the dash air system -- that
depends on what you might want. For me, I prefer to be on the cool
side ... so it's important. Someone else, who might like it a little
warmer, won't.
Pete Masterson
aeonix1@...
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
El Sobrante, CA




On Mar 7, 2007, at 5:47 PM, birdshill123 wrote:

> When I bought my 88 Bird other owners told me that the dash air in
> these babies never works well. The PO had my unit at the factory in
> 04.
> They installed a new compressor and believe it or not left it with
> R12.
> We have used it driving through Texas in the low 90's as well as in
> Mexico at the same temps. Works great to about 90 to 92. Beyond
> that we
> use the roof air to supplement the cooling. It has never been charged
> since 04 and still is OK.. I am fortunate that here in Mexico R12 is
> still easily obtainable.
>
> Bruce
> 1988 FC35




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Gardner Yeaw]

My ac compressor was removed prior to my purchasing the coach.
There is a second air intake in it's place which I believe does
wonders for the 210 hp 3208. So I fire up the generator and use the
roof ACs to cool things off. From other posts I have read the cost
of running the generator is not much different than the added fuel
consumption of the 3208 running the compressor. And the truth is
that the 210hp 3208 needs every bit of hp it can muster when
climbing a hill.

Gardner
78FC33
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Wheeler"
wrote:
>
> Since we only have the 210hp version I didn't want the power or
heat load on
> the engine. I put a 15,000btu ac on the front, the front vent
aimed into
> the overhead, and turn on the chassis ac fans to help with
circulation.
> This keeps us very comfortable. Because of Kathy's job we always
seem to
> travel at the wrong times, dead of winter and heat of summer. It
does keep
> all the systems exercised!
>
>
>
> - Chuck Wheeler -
>
> 82 FC 31 SB
>
> Fort Worth, TX
>
> _____
>
> From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alan
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 4:39 PM
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Dash / chassis air conditioner on FC
>
>
>
> Well, with it starting to get warm again in Texas, I'm
contemplating
> what to do with my Chassis a/c. I bought my 87FC35 last August and
i
> know that without the dash a/c operational, it gets hot up front in
> the Texas summers.
>
> Here's what i do know about my dash a/c.
> 1. York compressor is locked up. No big deal. I've got it off and
> can put another one on.
> 2. Hoses on top of coach that connect the condensor to the fittings
> that come out of the roof are gone. Again, not a big deal. I can
> have those made easily.
> 3. Condensor will probably be fine if it is cleaned up and cleaned
> out, but I understand I will probably want to replace it with a new
> Red Dot condensor when I convert to r134A. Not too big of a deal,
> just a few $$.
> 4. Hoses to compressor from evaporator and condensor are 20 years
old
> and could be bad. I"M WORRIED ABOUT THIS POTENTIAL PROBLEM.
>
> So, here are my questions.
>
> 1.I visually inspected the hoses at the compressor. I couldn't see
> any external cracks. BUT WHAT DO I DO IF I GET A NEW COMPRESSOR AND
> CONDENSOR INSTALLED AND FIND OUT THEY ARE LEAKING, especially
running
> higher pressure r134a? I'd hate to spend a bunch of money (and
time)
> only to have an a/c that still doesn't work.
> 2. How do the hoses currently get from the engine compartment to
the
> overhead?
> 3. If I had to run new hoses, has anyone done that or seen that
done
> and where do i run them? Inside the bus (and where)?
>
> Thanks!
> Alan Johnson
> 87FC35
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Pete Masterson]

Gardner,

With your engine, you will not want to lose the HP to the AC
compressor. The 2nd air intake really helps the 3208 NA engine...

Those with more power (i.e. newer 'birds) might want to consider the
trade off of 'dash' air vs. running the generator. With the 470 HP of
the DD Series 60, I don't really notice the AC compressor demands
except in very extreme circumstances.

A little fan up on the dash might be nice for those sunny days....

Pete Masterson
aeonix1@...
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
El Sobrante, CA




On Mar 8, 2007, at 5:35 PM, Gardner Yeaw wrote:

> My ac compressor was removed prior to my purchasing the coach.
> There is a second air intake in it's place which I believe does
> wonders for the 210 hp 3208. So I fire up the generator and use the
> roof ACs to cool things off. From other posts I have read the cost
> of running the generator is not much different than the added fuel
> consumption of the 3208 running the compressor. And the truth is
> that the 210hp 3208 needs every bit of hp it can muster when
> climbing a hill.
>
> Gardner
> 78FC33
<snip>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Alan]

Thanks for your experiences and advice here! That really helps. I'm
going to try my luck with the existing hoses. I'll take it to a local
shop and see if they hold a vacuum and have them cleaned out. If that
looks good, i'll put on a new compressor and probably condensor, and
(hopefully) go happily down the road as cool as I want to be.

I did look into alternatives. There are aftermarket units that are
made for trucks and tractors that I could have used. They were
self-contained and the compressors would run off of 120v. After
talking to one of these manufactures (http://www.danhard.com) I decided
against it just because of capacity. The chassis one should put out
around 36,000btu. While even the largest 120v one would be 15,000 btu.

Thanks again,
Alan

[Mike Hohnstein]

134A likes more condenser, you can't have too much. I used the old hoses, new
blower motors and had to change the expansion valve, stuff got in it. Flush
every thing you want to reuse and do up a new EV. It will all be good.
MH
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2007 8:47 AM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Dash / chassis air conditioner on FC


Thanks for your experiences and advice here! That really helps. I'm
going to try my luck with the existing hoses. I'll take it to a local
shop and see if they hold a vacuum and have them cleaned out. If that
looks good, i'll put on a new compressor and probably condensor, and
(hopefully) go happily down the road as cool as I want to be.

I did look into alternatives. There are aftermarket units that are
made for trucks and tractors that I could have used. They were
self-contained and the compressors would run off of 120v. After
talking to one of these manufactures (http://www.danhard.com) I decided
against it just because of capacity. The chassis one should put out
around 36,000btu. While even the largest 120v one would be 15,000 btu.

Thanks again,
Alan





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]