Battery compartment redo

[Tom]

Bob/John when making battery cables I would not solder the connections
since it tends to weaken the cable where the cable and terminal meet. The
best method is to use a large battery crimper that gives a good solid hex
crimp that escentially forces the strands of wire into a solid mass and the
terminal is then solidly crimped around it. You will notice that cables for
house entrances etc are always crimped like this and never soldered. You
then need to shrink a thick wall heat shrink with interior melt glue over
the connection so that it will not corrode.


Tom
1982 FC35
Vernon Center,Ny
In the beautiful Mohawk Valley of NY

At 09:05 AM 4/15/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Bob Howald:
>I am recalling soldering lore from many eons ago when I was an AC tech, and
>I think you may want to consider looking at those new cable ends.
> In order for a solder joint to stick, ALL components must be above the
>melting point of the solder. If not, you get a cold solder joint. I may
>have misread but it sounds as if you stuck cold cable into hot
>solder. Almost by definition, the solder in direct contact with the cable
>as it slipped into that pool would have dropped below its melting
>point. The chances are pretty good that your copper ends stuck only
>partially on the 4 aught cable and will eventually break, in the mean time
>providing a nice spot for hidden corrosion. I recommend that you reheat
>those joints, applying the heat to the cable. It will be a whole lot
>easier to do that now and avoid the frustration a year from now of trying
>to figure out why your batteries aren't charging, etc.
>
>John Ely, 86PT40, Rapid City, SD On the road