Over heating 6V92
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07-02-2006, 01:39
Post: #11
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Over heating 6V92
I have just replaced the back small hose on my v8 92 fill the coolant then leave
th cap off . then add more coolant repeat till it stays full. as far as 200 for short periods should not be a problem I read in the DD desiel manual that is normal for short periods guysmalley > > Is there a trick to refilling the coolant so as not to have air > pockets in the coolant? > > If you have, yourself, flushed your cooling system and refilled it, I > would like to hear of the procedure. > > Thanks AGAIN! > > Jay Darst > 85PT40 6V92 MTB654CR > Springfield, IL > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "birdboat44" > wrote: > > > > Jay, Jack Jones here, the only thing that would cause sudden over > > heating would have to be one the thermostats or the fan did not come > > on. My 8v92 while idling will not heat up enough to turn the fan on. > > You can bet it will happen again. > > Jack > > 87 Pt 40 East Tn right next to Gatlinburg > > > |
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07-02-2006, 02:19
Post: #12
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Over heating 6V92
Park Brake, not emergancy brake. If you need to use it as an emergancy
brake, walk back and pour your last cup. The Park brake is not an air brake. PBrake is spring applied, and usualy only on the drive axles. When you release the Pbrake air pressure is used to push the spring back, and release the brake shoe. Greg --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor" > > Jay, maybe the bus was in drive with the e brake on?? |
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07-02-2006, 06:56
Post: #13
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Over heating 6V92
Hello Jay,
This is going to sound strange(maybe dangerous),but we were at RIV 6 or 7 yrs. ago and at that time the factory would send mechanics to your bus and do two minor repairs for you at no cost,except for parts.(No longer applies) At the time we had an 83pt with a silver 6v.We weren't getting heat in the front of the bus.The factory guys said it might be an air bubble in the cooling system.To clear it they ran the engine to the governor high point,kept it there for 5 or 6 seconds,did it 3 times,we got heat. Don't know if this will solve your problem,but I know every little bit helps. Good Luck, Bob Gradowski Jefferson,NC 92 wb |
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07-02-2006, 11:05
Post: #14
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Over heating 6V92
Rest assured that IS the answer.
MH ----- Original Message ----- From: Pete Masterson To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 7:10 PM Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Over heating 6V92 This afternoon's mail brought me the June copy of Bus Conversion magazine ... and there was an article describing installing a water spray system for the radiator to improve cooling of a 6V92. The writer explained that "most of the charter bus operators" running from LA to Las Vegas have installed water spray systems to keep the engines cool while crossing the desert during the summer. The article went on to describe how one could fashion a system using drip irrigation 'sprinklers' and an electric pump controlled by a switch by the driver. Elsewhere in the magazine, I noticed an ad for B&B Coach Works in Las Vegas that offers a number of items for motorhomes and bus conversions including "radiator sppray systems". Is this the answer to the heating problem (if the cooling system is otherwise in good condition)? > On Jul 1, 2006, at 12:40 PM, Jay Darst wrote: > > > Thanks Rob. > > > > I cleaned the radiator before leaving for NY. Really wasn't dirty on > > my either. > > > > I have made sure that the coolant is as full as possible. Started > > and ran engine. Coolant does not get up to operating temp, according > > to the dash gage. The temp is around 160, which is where it stays > +/- > > 5 degrees. > > > > Went for a ride, temp never made it to 190 where it used to only > > deviate 5 degrees. > > > > The coolong fan did kick on a few times, but according to the gage, > > it should not have. > > > > Too hot, too cold, poor circulation. Pump? Thermostat? > > > > Jay Darst > > 85PT40 6V92DD MTB654CR > > Springhfield, IL > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Rob Robinson" > > > > > > > > Jay last week or so I took the louver cover off and cleaned the > > radiator > > > with Gunk and lots of water. Used garden hose vice pressure > > washer. It > > > wasn't that dirty but some folks told me that it doesn't take much > > dust and > > > grime to affect temps. I hope a good cleaning is all you need. > > > > > > On 01/07/06, Jay Darst > > > > > > > > Gang, > > > > > > > > My Bird just experienced an over heat situation. > > > > > > > > The temp gage read about 220 degrees, cooling fan on, > > winter/summer > > > > switch in the winter position, all this would not bring the temp > > > > down.The antifreeze was full. > > > > > > > > Happened while Bird was idling. I assume the thermostats need > > > > replaced. That will be by first repair,I suppose? > > > > > > > > In the last 3 weeks been on a 2,000 mile round trip and a 400 > > mile > > > > round trip. No problems. > > > > > > > > Any suggestions or comments are appreciated. > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > Jay Darst > > > > 85PT40 6V92 MTB654CR > > > > Springfield, IL > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > Rob, Sue & Merlin Robinson > > > 94 WLWB > > > Pete Masterson aeonix1@... '95 Bluebird Wanderlodge WBDA 4203 El Sobrante, CA [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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07-03-2006, 03:31
Post: #15
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Over heating 6V92
Jay, if you turn on winter to cool it down, would you not also have
to run the fans over the various heat registers to have any cooling effect?? I wonder if winter restricts flow dynamically to the engine R in an attempt to bring the heat up at Idle as in winter ambient would be lower?? Maybe that restriction (i.e., valve) is stuck or the water pump or belt is bad?? Is it possible to eliminate the chassis loop prior to any diverter valves, Manually? As the engine is heating up, a Raytec laser would help detect extreme heat if one piston or bearing is causing more friction then the other. Use the raytec to check temps of cooling water ( early after startup as temps on the cockpit gauge start to climb)to see if the flow in to the Big Radiator is as hot as the flow out of the Engine. if the temp into the Radiator is cooler your problem is flow , chances are the pump or belt or restriction is your problem ( bad flow can be push problem or restriction problem). When a pump goes it usually leaks unless some one put in the majic radiator stop leak. Early on, check the temps in the radiator core. It should all be as hot or hotter than the exit water. This would reveal a plugged core ( definitly a plug if a upper section is cooler then a lower section), or just bad push from the pump. I like your water radiator cool tip. Wonder if there was a way to use the gray water. Use of the other tank contents would give literal meaning to a offensive phrase, but may prove help full when followed too closly by other motorists. Greg 94pt waiting for catscan results today --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jay Darst" wrote: > > Gang, > > My Bird just experienced an over heat situation. > > The temp gage read about 220 degrees, cooling fan on, winter/summer > switch in the winter position, all this would not bring the temp > down.The antifreeze was full. > > Happened while Bird was idling. I assume the thermostats need > replaced. That will be by first repair,I suppose? > > In the last 3 weeks been on a 2,000 mile round trip and a 400 mile > round trip. No problems. > > Any suggestions or comments are appreciated. > > Thanks > Jay Darst > 85PT40 6V92 MTB654CR > Springfield, IL > |
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07-03-2006, 05:33
Post: #16
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Over heating 6V92
On Jul 3, 2006, at 8:31 AM, Gregory OConnor wrote:
> <snip> > I like your water radiator cool tip. Wonder if there was a way to > use the gray water. Use of the other tank contents would give > literal meaning to a offensive phrase, but may prove help full when > followed too closly by other motorists. > You would probably want to use fresh water only. Remember, the water sprayed on the radiator (which is at 180+ degrees) will evaporate leaving behind residue. Even using fresh water, you'll need to treat the radiator with Lime Away, CLR, or white vinegar from time to time to keep calcium build-up at a minimum (rinse thoroughly after treatment as you don't want to corrode the radiator either). The amount of water used shouldn't be that much of a problem since this is supplemental cooling that should only be needed on long upgrades in hot weather. If the cooling system isn't keeping the engine in normal operating range at other times, then you may need to trouble shoot the system to make sure that all components are working as they are supposed to. Pete Masterson aeonix1@... '95 Bluebird Wanderlodge WBDA 4203 El Sobrante, CA |
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07-03-2006, 07:09
Post: #17
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Over heating 6V92
How do you calibrate the RAYTEC heat (IR) detector? How do you correct for
the emissitivity of the item being measured? These items on early such IR detectors could result in gross errors if not properly done. Jerry MS Gulf Coast Still Looking _____ From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gregory OConnor Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 10:32 AM To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Over heating 6V92 Jay, if you turn on winter to cool it down, would you not also have to run the fans over the various heat registers to have any cooling effect?? I wonder if winter restricts flow dynamically to the engine R in an attempt to bring the heat up at Idle as in winter ambient would be lower?? Maybe that restriction (i.e., valve) is stuck or the water pump or belt is bad?? Is it possible to eliminate the chassis loop prior to any diverter valves, Manually? As the engine is heating up, a Raytec laser would help detect extreme heat if one piston or bearing is causing more friction then the other. Use the raytec to check temps of cooling water ( early after startup as temps on the cockpit gauge start to climb)to see if the flow in to the Big Radiator is as hot as the flow out of the Engine. if the temp into the Radiator is cooler your problem is flow , chances are the pump or belt or restriction is your problem ( bad flow can be push problem or restriction problem). When a pump goes it usually leaks unless some one put in the majic radiator stop leak. Early on, check the temps in the radiator core. It should all be as hot or hotter than the exit water. This would reveal a plugged core ( definitly a plug if a upper section is cooler then a lower section), or just bad push from the pump. I like your water radiator cool tip. Wonder if there was a way to use the gray water. Use of the other tank contents would give literal meaning to a offensive phrase, but may prove help full when followed too closly by other motorists. Greg 94pt waiting for catscan results today --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups.com, "Jay Darst" wrote: > > Gang, > > My Bird just experienced an over heat situation. > > The temp gage read about 220 degrees, cooling fan on, winter/summer > switch in the winter position, all this would not bring the temp > down.The antifreeze was full. > > Happened while Bird was idling. I assume the thermostats need > replaced. That will be by first repair,I suppose? > > In the last 3 weeks been on a 2,000 mile round trip and a 400 mile > round trip. No problems. > > Any suggestions or comments are appreciated. > > Thanks > Jay Darst > 85PT40 6V92 MTB654CR > Springfield, IL > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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07-03-2006, 10:26
Post: #18
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Over heating 6V92
Jerry I tend to be a smartass in my posts but this is the honest
answer. Open mouth and take a reading if it is close to 98.6 there you go. If you cant hold an oral thermometer the procedures would be different. To get a high reading, I guess you could bring water to a boil and read it. The emissivity is relative if both surfaces are the same as you are looking to compare temps and less concerned as to water temp as the water temp is a result not the cause. Black hose prior to radiator, blackhose after radiator, ; engine block at piston one , engine block at piston 5. Things like wheel hubs should heat up the same if one is hotter there is a friction problem. If a piston is hotter than another piston the colder may not be firing or the warmer may have a bearing, ring problem??? If you know the temp when things are running good, you could compare them when there is an issue. I guess in place of temperature you could call the reading a value. You sound too much like Curt!! Gregory O'Connor 94ptRomolandCa --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry" > > How do you calibrate the RAYTEC heat (IR) detector? How do you correct for > the emissitivity of the item being measured? These items on early such IR > detectors could result in gross errors if not properly done. > > > > Jerry > > MS Gulf Coast > > Still Looking > > > > > > _____ > > From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gregory OConnor > Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 10:32 AM > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Over heating 6V92 > > > > Jay, if you turn on winter to cool it down, would you not also have > to run the fans over the various heat registers to have any cooling > effect?? I wonder if winter restricts flow dynamically to the engine > R in an attempt to bring the heat up at Idle as in winter ambient > would be lower?? Maybe that restriction (i.e., valve) is stuck or > the water pump or belt is bad?? Is it possible to eliminate the > chassis loop prior to any diverter valves, Manually? > > As the engine is heating up, a Raytec laser would help detect extreme > heat if one piston or bearing is causing more friction then the > other. Use the raytec to check temps of cooling water ( early after > startup as temps on the cockpit gauge start to climb)to see if the > flow in to the Big Radiator is as hot as the flow out of the Engine. > if the temp into the Radiator is cooler your problem is flow , > chances are the pump or belt or restriction is your problem ( bad > flow can be push problem or restriction problem). When a pump goes it > usually leaks unless some one put in the majic radiator stop leak. > Early on, check the temps in the radiator core. It should all be as > hot or hotter than the exit water. This would reveal a plugged core > ( definitly a plug if a upper section is cooler then a lower > section), or just bad push from the pump. > > I like your water radiator cool tip. Wonder if there was a way to > use the gray water. Use of the other tank contents would give > literal meaning to a offensive phrase, but may prove help full when > followed too closly by other motorists. > > Greg > 94pt > waiting for catscan results today > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ > yahoogroups.com, "Jay Darst" > wrote: > > > > Gang, > > > > My Bird just experienced an over heat situation. > > > > The temp gage read about 220 degrees, cooling fan on, winter/summer > > switch in the winter position, all this would not bring the temp > > down.The antifreeze was full. > > > > Happened while Bird was idling. I assume the thermostats need > > replaced. That will be by first repair,I suppose? > > > > In the last 3 weeks been on a 2,000 mile round trip and a 400 mile > > round trip. No problems. > > > > Any suggestions or comments are appreciated. > > > > Thanks > > Jay Darst > > 85PT40 6V92 MTB654CR > > Springfield, IL > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > |
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