Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace

[Kurt Horvath]

Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace

Well most of this go around for upgrades/fixes are done. Lil_Stankes
are in and working, some new rocker switches, relocate wiring for
VMSpc Silverleaf & upgrade new 2.4 software, it has a new engine file
for the Series 60 @ 470 HP, I'm wondering how that will compare to
the 500hp setting they told me use. New water pumps and plumbing, new
water outlet on curb side, Gay water tank overflow plumbimg, Fresh
water system sanitized, cleaned out behind Splendid 2000
washer/dryer, disassemble, clean, polish & reassemble air horns.
Fixed air purge fresh water flush system and rerouted airlines into
pump bay for easy access. Quick coupler for LP Gas replaced and
copper pipe cut and a inserted union for future disassembly. Jake
Brake troubleshooting. Checked Cannon plug for burnt pins and found
none. I used a 10X loupe to examine the pins and then photographed
them from both sides at 3264 X 2176 resolution and magnified them on
the computer and found no burnt or discoloration on the Cannon plugs
male or female sides, gave them a good shot of electronic contact
cleaner and some di-electric grease and reassembled. I'll have the
spare DDEC IV scanned and checked for the Jake program then
installed to see if that solves the Jake Brake problem, The present
DDEC may have been deactivated by previous owners. Anyway I need to
try out the spare to make sure it will work when I really need it. If
you need or think you'll need a DDEC ECM look on e-bay, good used and
refurbished unit at much less than you'll pay at D.D.. I got one Mfg
in '07 it was used as test unit for a few months and programmed to my
engine for under $600. D.D. want $2500plus for a reman and $'s for
programming.

I still have a problem with the refrigerator not cooling well while
underway. Some of you have tested your coaches with ribbons taped on
and around the sides of the coach and radiator area and have
discovered that there are unique air patterns around the body.
Notably the lack of air flowing into the radiator. I would surmise
that this is true on the roof as well. I'm thinking that this applies
to the refrigerator exhaust vent on the roof and it's relationship to
the vent on the side of the body. I have installed 5 - 130cfm
computer fans in the exhaust vent they will draw 650 CFM. So I think
that would overcome any adverse air flow caused by the effects of
air passing across the coach. Well it still isn't functioning well
while underway, Works great while parked. I'm at a loss as to where
to go from here. Any ideas would be helpful.

The next major task is replacing the muffler. While installing the
Lil-Stanker powered tank vents I stopped to look at the exhaust
stack and reached down to give it a little shake and the chromes
elbow is only held on by the mounting clamp. It's hollow inside, the
baffels are gone it's just a tube. I have one ordered, they are hard
to get. Cummins has a 45 to 60 day back order on the
Donaldson/Nelson/Fleetgaurd muffler part # 86610M. Found one from
Fleetpride, under $250 delivered to the farm. BB wanted $900 +

I would like to insulate the muffler and or the muffler tunnel. I
don't really have a heat issue . But since I'm there doing it anyway
might as well improve it if practical. There is only about 1"
clearance on each side, the tunnel measures 13" X 13.5 on my coach
and the muffler is 11.10 in diameter so you can see there isn't much
clearance to do much of anything. I am considering Thermo Tec exhaust
insulating wrap. It is rated at 2000 degrees continuos use and 3000
degrees intermittent use. It comes in 6" wide rolls and shouldn't be
too hard to install, it's only 1/16th of an inch thick so clearance
isn't a problem. Paint the pipe with some sort of high temp
paint/coating to slow down corrosion. I've read that the first few
runs will cause some smoke/smell but once it's "cured" that will
stop. Paint the muffler, wrap it, clamp it, paint the wrap to seal it
from the elements and install on coach, Sounds easy, TOO EASY!
Somebody with some experience with this needs to chime in here.

Another idea is a smaller diameter muffle with a heat blank from ATP,
Firwin or Kolb. The Fleetgaurde muffler # 82132M would do nicely. It
has almost the same flow rate within 100 CFM and it's 9" in diameter,
that would increase the clearance from the tunnel walls to the
muffler by 100%. 2" VS 1" The downside is 5" diameter opening VS the
6" for the original equipment muffler and pipes. May be a better
option, but more expensive.

If you get this far through this post I still have 20+ CD's of
the `95 - `96 PT 42 and `97 PT 43 Diagrams & Blueprints available. If
you want one send e-mail to kguns@...

Kurt Horvath
95 pt 42 wlwb
10AC