re-doing battery compartment & Cables

[George Lowry]

Hi Bob,

FWIW, the training I got years ago was the best thing to do was to
first have a good mechanical connection and then a good solder
connection. I will say that I soldered all of the cables on my
converted coach and never had a failure but I had two failures of the
Bird which had "factory" swaged connectors. I would prefer to swage
the connection and then add solder. That give the best of both worlds.
I have had too many failures with swaged connections both electrical
and hydraulic to trust them very much...

George Lowry
'95 WBDA 4203 & GM 4106 (for sale)
Spearfish, SD

Bob & Carol Howald` wrote:

>
> Well, after all the comment's I might have to reconsider my method's.
> I have used the solder connection in the past and it always seemed to
> work good. I used it on my 84pt and it seemed to work very well for a
> number of years. I always heated both the wire and the fitting before
> inserting the cable into the hot solder. used heat shrink on the cable
> and it always seemed to be ok. I wonder what the difference in
> resistance is in copper direct verses the solder direct? Now I have to
> give this lot's of thought. I have the old charger's out and all the
> trays sandblasted , now Iam ready to do the epoxy paint. Thanks for the
> input and I welcome any more suggestions. I really like doing the
> solder connections, But? Thanks...Bob 93pt Illinois....
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