ROOF LEAKING !!!!

[Pete Masterson]

I'll just observe that the drip can travel some distance from where it enters the coach -- A leak I was chasing moved each time we moved the coach -- the slight differences in leveling caused the leak-water to come out in different places. Very frustrating.

Pete Masterson

(former) '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Nov 10, 2009, at 4:54 PM, bumpersbird wrote:

Pete, That's a great Idea I have exactly what you described didn't even think of it. GREAT IDEA! I'm happy your still here on the Forums. Sorry about not signing my post, Kurt Horvath 95 PT 42 10AC. The leak is in the bedroom rear, road side just dripping down from the wire tunnel between the closet and the bed. I've looked up into it with a fiber optic scope to no avail. The fiberglass rear cap had a large gap between it and the body but sealing it didn't help. As high up as it is it's probably the Cat Walks, or Goat Rails,

Kurt Horvath
95 PT 42
10AC

--- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com", Pete Masterson wrote:

The key idea of this machine is to seal up the coach except for one

vent, window, or door, where you introduce a device that will increase

the pressure inside to exceed the outside pressure. A relatively few

PSI is all that's necessary.

There's no reason that you can't do it yourself with some duct tape,

cardboard, and a pressurizing fan like those used to fill and maintain

inflatable figures (like dinosaurs or giant teddy bears -- or

children's play structures) that you can rent from a variety of

sources. (Even Lockhart Texas had a store offering various kid's

"party structures" using these fans.)

Once you've got the interior pressurized -- then soapy water will

reveal the leaks.

If the coach fails to 'pressure up' sufficiently, you may need to

block the AC vents with duct tape and cardboard -- and even tape up

the small AC vents if you have a ducted system. Use some paper or

cardboard to minimize the area in contact with the duct tape as it

tends to transfer the 'sticky stuff' to surfaces it contacts.

I considered this approach, but ultimately I found the sources of a

couple of stubborn leaks through more conventional means.

Note that silicone is not usually the most effective sealant for use

on a vehicle. Usually butyl-based caulk is a better choice. There is a

'self leveling' caulk (used extensively on my coach roof by a previous

owner) that's available from Camping World that appears to be quite

durable. I also used some (rather expensive) tape stuff that proved

very effective in re-sealing around my Fantastic Fan vent.

I note that some "leaking" can actually be caused by AC condensation

that does not flow through the drain tubes as intended.

One common repair was to take up the aluminum walkway plates on the

roof, and replace the screws with stainless steel screws using butyl

caulk to seal each screw as it is installed. On my coach, a P.O. did

this and put the screws through strips of semi-solid butyl. It

appeared to be effective (apparently no leaks from the screws) but the

black strips of butyl looks a little odd (though they were mostly

under the metal plating, so were only visible at the ends).

Pete Masterson

(former) '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

aeonix1@...

On Nov 10, 2009, at 7:43 AM, bumpersbird wrote:

I had a little water leak before rats and again during rats. I got

home and silicone anything on the left rear I could get to. Well

thanks to the Tropical storm coming up from the gulf, she was

leaking real good, or bad! This morning.

I parked her back in the barn, Damn! looks like the concrete floor I

was going to pour will have to wait. We just got the barn mostly

cleared out for the contractor last weekend.

Back to the leak it is obvious that I didn't getter done. Anybody

have any experience with this machine.

http://www.rverscorner.com/info/raintest/raintest.html

Madison RV in Madison Alabama is the closest dealer that has one of

these pressurizing systems. I would like to have it tested , I'm not

sure if I want then to fix it I would just like to find the leak/

leaks.

This will most likely accelerate the roof redo project. I have

wanting to take off all the rails and cat walks and reseal and riv

nut the rusted out mounting points.

I'll need to know what all I'll need to refurbish the roof.

I would like any advise, hints, tips that you guys have on the

subject. I remember some threads on roof redoes and riv nuts here

and on the WOG site so if you guys could refresh my fading memory I

would appreciate it.

Drip DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP

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