Door repairs

[David Brady]

What makes noise on my side windows are the screens - they rattle

over bumps. I found that Penisula Glass put a plastic channel at the

base of my screens that slides in another extruded channel in the

window frame. The plastic piece is a few inches shorter than the window

frame. It's purpose is to cinch the screen into the extruded window

frame to prevent rattling. It works. If you don't have such an item,

you can probably get it from Peninsula. It's a simple matter to pop

out the screen, seat the plastic channel, and re-insert the screen.



David Brady,

'02 LXi, NC



Pete Masterson wrote:

I actually only replaced the outside edge, top and bottom but not
the hinge-edge of the weather stripping. The hinge edge was more
bother, so I put it off. I then noticed that the wind noise I was
getting had gone away.

I also got rid of some wind noises in the door window by
installing some weather stripping there, too. I used a kind of 'fur'
stuff -- stiff fibers about 1/16" long that stick up from a 3/16"
sticky tape.

I have a bit of similar wind noise from the driver's side window
as well. Installing a bunch more of the fur-stuff is on my to do list. 

These kinds of things are endless -- I have several of the other
windows that need troubleshooting for rattles and wind noise as well.
Difficulty there is that it helps to be able to sit/stand near the
window and experiment to find exactly where the noise/air leak is
coming from. I can't do that while I'm driving. Wife won't drive the
bus. So I need to wait for a day when there's gale force winds blowing
so I can fiddle with the windows while parked... (We don't get many of
those days around here.)

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jun 13, 2008, at 6:46 AM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

The most annoying noise resulting from wind at the entry door
comes 

from atop the passanger seat. 1- opening up the airvent
pressurizes 

the cab enough to keep air from entering.(close rear windows
also) 2-

Saying "What,,, What,,,, What,,," is effective in reduction of
seat 

noise.  I don't
get the 'skin the cat anology' but these are two of 

those other ways.

Less weather strip is needed at the hinge side.  too much will lift 

the hinge and soon distort. 
hollow strips seem to seal better with 

less pressure but when you distort the mechanics, you end up
needing 

newspaper sticking out the jam. 

GregoryO'Connor

94ptRomolandCa

 --- In "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com",
David Brady "dmb993@..." 

wrote:

Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a school
bus

(with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite good 

enough

on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true automotive

style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the
vehicle

rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the weather 

stripping

adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with it.

David

'02 LXi, NC

Pete Masterson wrote:

I've examined the door geometry very closely. It doesn't
seem 

like 

there's any real solution -- it appears to be a "feature"
(as in 

"that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")... When
my 

weather 

stripping was failing, the door was easier to close, but
then 

there 

were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the
weather 

strip 

(with a profile that was quite similar to the original)
then the 

door 

was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind
noise was 

gone. 

I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to using a
firm 

hand 

when closing the door. It's not really an excessive amount
of 

force, 

but it is rather more than is required for most vehicles. I 

chalk it 

up to being a Blue Bird quirk.

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:

Pete, 

That is exactly what happens on mine.  Very frustrating.  Also 

no 

real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.

Brad Barton 00LXiDFW bbartonwx@... <"bbartonwx"@...>

    ------------------------------------------------------------

------------

    To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"

    <"WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com">

    From:
aeonix1@... <"aeonix1"@...>

    Date:
Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700

    Subject:
Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs

    I'll
note that the door on my coach must be shut with 

authority

    (like
you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch

    properly.
This was the situation with the original weather

    stripping
and with the weather stripping I installed. Once 

the

    automotive
latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt 

lines

    up
properly. 

    If you
try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then 

when

    the
automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead 

bolt is

    sufficient
that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on 

which

    side of
the door you're on, you either have to pull or push 

on

    the door
to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the

    solenoid
will through the bolt.

    Pete
Masterson

    '95 Blue
Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

    El
Sobrante CA

    aeonix1@...
<"aeonix1"@...>

    On Jun
11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:

        Ryan,
when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push 

on the

        door
to 

        line
up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as 

I cant

        see
or 

        feel
what is going on in the jamb.  I
think someone 

replaced the 

        seal
with a too ambitious foam/rubber  product.
fat 

seals endup 

        causing
the door operator to slam and place a hard turn 

on the 

        lock.  One other issue is that the
door on my 94 is 

alumnium and 

        swells
more than the steel frame in the sun. just some 

things to 

        consider
with your project

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