Chassis heat problems

[Richard Gideon]

Four on the floor and a fifth under the seat?

Dick Gideon

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
wrote:
>
> I cannot find a fifth valve. Do you have a Sporlan in the circuit
back there like I do? If not, perhaps it is the fifth valve.
>
> The fourth valve turned out not to be bad. The only thing I can
surmise is that it was closed, and I just didn't turn enough times to
hit the open stop. Good thing, because it is a different valve body;
not a lot of difference, but the gate would not fit from one of the
others.
>
> Way back in this thread Ron Marabito asked if I had checked the
gate valves because they were notorious for working themselves
closed. I replied that they were opened, and wire-tied open. Of
course at that time I thought I was only talking about two valves.
The third and fourth were not tied open. Now they are.
>
> On 3/22/2008 at 6:00 PM sfedeli3 wrote:
>
> >Don,
> >
> > On mine, there are 4 gate valves for the chassis heater circuits
and
> >a 5th for the loop to the water heater.
> >
> >-Shane
> >
> >--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> > wrote:
> >>
> >> Never mind - I found a fourth gate valve. This one is down below
the
> >right side of the Sporlan valve, after the water heater circuit
> >returns. Another hard location, and it is bad. I think I can do the
> >same replacement of the handle/stem/gate that I did on the other
one.
> >>
> >> On 3/22/2008 at 8:55 AM Don Bradner wrote:
> >>
> >> >I suspect that valve on the bottom of the water pump takes the
highest
> >> >heat and flow, which may explain why it erodes faster.
Particularly if
> >> >there is one exit and two returns. I'm still not clear about
whether I
> >> >should be looking for a fourth gate valve?
> >> >
> >> >Unless I ever have to remove the water pump for some other
reason,
> >I don't
> >> >think that valve will get replaced. I will keep the other decent
> >core for
> >> >potential repair in a few years - if push comes to shove I will
do what
> >> >Greg said, gut the valve, and put another immediately
downstream. Not
> >> >necessary to do any major work to gut it, just remove the gate
from the
> >> >stem and discard, then replace the stem.
> >> >
> >> >Don Bradner
> >> >90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> >> >Eureka, CA
> >> >
> >> >On 3/22/2008 at 1:45 PM sfedeli3 wrote:
> >> >
> >> >>Hi Don,
> >> >>
> >> >> I know that you don't want to hear this- but it was the one
that
> >> >>you're talking about on the bottom of the water pump that
failed on
> >> >>mine. Replacing the innards is a good move- and should solve
your
> >> >>problem. Some plumbing supply houses may carry new gates and
seals for
> >> >>the valve, but good luck finding a perfect match. Sadly, I do
not
> >> >>think that there is any way to replace that valve without
having the
> >> >>water pump off- and that is a challenge in itself. Maneuvering
a 25 lb
> >> >>chunk of iron with fittings and trying to match up the drive
gears was
> >> >>a real PITA.
> >> >>
> >> >>Shane Fedeli
> >> >>85PT40
> >> >>Hershey, PA
> >> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >------------------------------------
> >
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