Low Air Buzzer

[James Harvie]

I had no low air buzzer, or light, and thanks to a tip from this forum, I didn't
have to waste any time tracking down the switch. It's a 2 pole switch, located
on the front right tank. One of the wires was broken off at the end, from
corrosion. I bought a new switch part # 22875ON (Bendix), for $23.80 Available
at Fleetpride. I'm not sure if the price was in check, but they're close, and I
needed one.lol. When I install it, I'll throw some silicone over the
connections. This keeps the connections clean and dry.It also lowers the risk of
a short circut causing fires.(I hate that smell of burning wires.lol)Then I'll
do all of the rest of the external connections at the solonoids etc. I also
bought some Velvac pull drain valves, for my air tanks. For those who don't
know, these are spring loaded drain valves, that replace those petcocks. Mine
were rusted shut with the holes plugged from the wasps.I got them lose, and to
my surprise there was no water, or oil in them. These
pull drains have a cable that you run off the side of your bus, so you can
drain the tanks without any effort. When I install mine, I'll run the cable
through some sort of conduit. Living in New England, the ice can build up on the
cable and although it takes a little effort to open the valve, enough ice and
this can happen.I'm going to check out my air lines too. For years I have used
old heater hose, and raidiator hose cut and sliced, and wrapped around any hoses
or electrical wires that even come close to chaffing I secure them with nylon
ties. Trust me, this can save you thousands Here's another little tip that may
help someone. When cutting heater hoses to lenght, I mark where I'm going to
cut, then fold the hose in half, Take the sheetrock or razor knife, and gently
drag it across cut it half way, turn it over bend it again and cut the other
half, The tension on the rubber makes this an easy cut

Jimmy Harvie

82 FC 35 SB

Boston Ma.


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