First RV and a few questions

[ttikalsky]

I checked the fluid level and it is OK. After a little more use I got
the front two jacks working decent. The left rear jack works OK but
the right rear jack is fully extended and will not release. I have
the lever in the retract position but the jack does not move. I used a
screwdriver to wedge between the small (flip down) jack and pushed the
ram back in pretty easily. The big ram will not move! I jacked the
rear corner up and flipped the jack up and gave it a couple of soft
hits on the bottom of the pad but it did not move. Could the release
valve in the main ram be stuck? Will opening the bleed valve help?

Jeff, you mention the PC-164C .0003lux ultra-low-light B&W camera.
What lense would you recommend? You also mentioned switching two wires
to reverse the image. Which wires and is it difficult?

Thanks, Troy in Waconia, MN 1983 FC33



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Miller"
wrote:
>
> A few answers:
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "ttikalsky"

> wrote:
> >
> > After 2+ years of research and searhing I finally brought home our
> > first RV, a 1983 Bluebird Wanderlodge FC 33. Can anyone help me
> with
> > a few questions?
> >
> > 1) Where is the leveling jack fluid tank? The jacks won't stay
> > extended and I would like to check the level.
>
> Lift the middle step, it is hinged at the front, remove four screws
> and the tank is under that cover.
>
> >
> > 2) The rear view camera is not working (the part that mounts in
the
> > back of the coach) is it worth fixing or am I better off
replacing
> it?
> > Any suggestions on who or where to fix or replace?
>
> The camera can easily be replaced, the original is a C-mount lense,
a
> new C-mount camera can be bought from http://www.supercircuits.com or
> equivalent, I use the PC-164C .0003lux ultra-low-light B&W camera
but
> have also used the low-light color, prefer the ultra-low-light
> B&W, ... you will have to reverse two wires in the monitor to
reverse
> the image.
>
> >
> > 3) The cruise control is not working, any suggestions on where to
> > start diagnosing the problem?
>
> Check first for vacuum at the unit under the hood/doghouse, you
have
> the last year before the Bendix cruise control, I believe it is a
> Dana, you could replace the whole thing with a King (very nice and
> expensive), or a Rostra (less expensive and not as heavy-duty) or
> search the junkyards for an all-electric unit from (I believe) a
> wrecked C/K GM pickup/tahoe/suburban and see if it has enough pull
to
> work, ... your choice.
>
> >
> > 4) The LP/CO2/Smoke detectors alarms are going off (monitor in
> galley)
> > for the center and rear furnaces, but the gas is shut off at the
> main
> > valve. Are the sensors replaceable or could they be cleaned? Does
> > anyone know if they operate by opening or closing the circuit
when
> gas
> > is detected?
>
> The galley monitor only alarms on detection, it is normal to alarm
> when first turned on, the alarms will likely reset within 5minutes.
> They should be vacuumed, and can be calibrated. The LP
> monitor/shutoff is the box under the refrigerator, if an old
original
> one it is IMO a huge fire hazard, factory was recalling these and
> yours is likely replaced.
>
> >
> > 5) The cab a/c is not working. Is it worth fixing or will the two
> > roof airs keep the coach cool in 90 degrees at 90% humidity when
> > driving?
>
> I love dash A/C, keeps the driver who sits in the sun up front
cool,
> many don't feel it is worth saving. I'll save mine every time and
> have been glad to have spent the time and money doing it.
>
> >
> > 6) One of the roof vents got broken, when I leaned on it. Are the
> > Maxair convers decent or just a gimick? Is it worth getting the
one
> > that keeps the rain from entering?
>
> I don't care for the Maxxair covers, take them off. Some like them,
> matter of taste/opinion. Not original equipment.
>
> - Jeff Miller
> http://www.wanderlodge.net
> http://www.millercoachworks.com