First RV and a few questions

[ttikalsky]

After 2+ years of research and searhing I finally brought home our
first RV, a 1983 Bluebird Wanderlodge FC 33. Can anyone help me with
a few questions?

1) Where is the leveling jack fluid tank? The jacks won't stay
extended and I would like to check the level.

2) The rear view camera is not working (the part that mounts in the
back of the coach) is it worth fixing or am I better off replacing it?
Any suggestions on who or where to fix or replace?

3) The cruise control is not working, any suggestions on where to
start diagnosing the problem?

4) The LP/CO2/Smoke detectors alarms are going off (monitor in galley)
for the center and rear furnaces, but the gas is shut off at the main
valve. Are the sensors replaceable or could they be cleaned? Does
anyone know if they operate by opening or closing the circuit when gas
is detected?

5) The cab a/c is not working. Is it worth fixing or will the two
roof airs keep the coach cool in 90 degrees at 90% humidity when
driving?

6) One of the roof vents got broken, when I leaned on it. Are the
Maxair convers decent or just a gimick? Is it worth getting the one
that keeps the rain from entering?

[Eric Johnson]

Hello ttikalsky,
1. Fluid level may not be the problem on your jacks but it's a good place to
start. Your
tank is located below the second entry step which is hinged to fold out. You
should see a
small loop strap you can grab to open it up. The tank should be pretty near
full with all
jacks retracted. Don't fill the tank with the jacks extended or you'll get a
messy spill when
the tank overflows when you retract them.
2. I know some folks like to use the original camera/monitor system. IMO you
are better
off replacing it with new hardware due to better technology and reliability. I
installed a
black & white camera and monitor system I purchased throught Camping World and
it
works great day or night.
3. You probably have a Bendix cruise control system. System is obsolete and
few, if any,
parts are still available. I spent $1,000 on my old system before throwing in
the towel and
replacing it with a modern unit from Cruise King. I've had the new system for
about a year
and have had few problems with it. Factory technical support is excellent.
4. I've had to replace one gas sensor. I purchased the replacent card through
Wanderlodge parts.
5. I abandoned our dash air system after replacing the compressor and chasing
freon
leaks with the help of a refrigeration tech. Cost to bring system up to date
was too high
for me to justify so I removed the compressor and made a simple modification to
the
engine belts. Used the money I would've spent on the dash a/c to replace the
old barely
able LPG generator with a PowerTech diesel generator that I run to supply the
two roof a/
c's on the road. IMO roof airs do a much better job than dash air of keeping
the whole
coach cool and you don't may much of a penalty on fuel mileage to run the
generator.
Roof airs hold our coach temperature in the upper 70's on a 93-100 ºF day.
6. I've replaced two of our original fans with the same type that was in there
from the
factory, I think they're made by Fantastic Fan or something like that. They
work fine.
Don't know anything about the rain excluding type.
Regards, Eric in San Antonio
84FC35SB
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "ttikalsky" wrote:
>
> After 2+ years of research and searhing I finally brought home our
> first RV, a 1983 Bluebird Wanderlodge FC 33. Can anyone help me with
> a few questions?
>
> 1) Where is the leveling jack fluid tank? The jacks won't stay
> extended and I would like to check the level.
>
> 2) The rear view camera is not working (the part that mounts in the
> back of the coach) is it worth fixing or am I better off replacing it?
> Any suggestions on who or where to fix or replace?
>
> 3) The cruise control is not working, any suggestions on where to
> start diagnosing the problem?
>
> 4) The LP/CO2/Smoke detectors alarms are going off (monitor in galley)
> for the center and rear furnaces, but the gas is shut off at the main
> valve. Are the sensors replaceable or could they be cleaned? Does
> anyone know if they operate by opening or closing the circuit when gas
> is detected?
>
> 5) The cab a/c is not working. Is it worth fixing or will the two
> roof airs keep the coach cool in 90 degrees at 90% humidity when
> driving?
>
> 6) One of the roof vents got broken, when I leaned on it. Are the
> Maxair convers decent or just a gimick? Is it worth getting the one
> that keeps the rain from entering?

[John]

Hi ttikalsky,

Please in the future include in your posts, your name, town and state
and the model and year of 'Bird that you have. There may be someone
close to you that can help you with your 'Bird.

I will try to help you with your questions as best that I can, by
answering them in the body of your post, as you asked them below.


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "ttikalsky"
wrote:
>
> After 2+ years of research and searhing I finally brought home our
> first RV, a 1983 Bluebird Wanderlodge FC 33. Can anyone help me
with
> a few questions?
>
> 1) Where is the leveling jack fluid tank? The jacks won't stay
> extended and I would like to check the level.

The leveling jack fluid reservoir should be located under the
entrance steps, you should find a ring that if you pull on it, the
step will rise up to give you access to the reservoir. Be sure to use
the proper fluid in it and you can find that information by going to
the HWH web site, or by calling them as they are very helpful, even
on the older 'Birds, like ours. Check out;
http://www.hwhcorp.com/

>
> 2) The rear view camera is not working (the part that mounts in the
> back of the coach) is it worth fixing or am I better off replacing
it?
> Any suggestions on who or where to fix or replace?

I have the same problem with mine. One of the members here, Blair is
working on a replacement system for the antiquated original system,
hopefully he will chime in here to give you a tip or two.
>
> 3) The cruise control is not working, any suggestions on where to
> start diagnosing the problem?

My original cruise control has been replaced, with an aftermarket
one, so I can't help you much with yours, but Jeff Miler will most
likely give you advice on that.
>
> 4) The LP/CO2/Smoke detectors alarms are going off (monitor in
galley)
> for the center and rear furnaces, but the gas is shut off at the
main
> valve. Are the sensors replaceable or could they be cleaned? Does
> anyone know if they operate by opening or closing the circuit when
gas
> is detected?

My original detector made by Marshall Brass was a disaster, so I
replaced it with after market units.
>
> 5) The cab a/c is not working. Is it worth fixing or will the two
> roof airs keep the coach cool in 90 degrees at 90% humidity when
> driving?

These units can be repaired, but from listening to different members
experiences with the repairs, it doesn't seem to be very cheap to
upgrade. I personally removed mine completely, including the
compressor and roof condenser. I use the genset and run one of the
roof air conditioners (I have three on my FC35) I have only been in
the high 80 degrees weather with it so far but it did a good job and
I can always turn on more if needed. I also use the dash air
conditioner fan to help circulate the cold air, by aiming the front
roof air conditioner at the intake grill above the windshield on the
inside.
>
> 6) One of the roof vents got broken, when I leaned on it. Are the
> MAXAIR convers decent or just a gimick? Is it worth getting the one
> that keeps the rain from entering?

I replaced mine that were broken with two Fantastic Vent Fans

http://www.fantasticvent.com/

Then I used a Max/Air Fan Mate vent cover Model 800, they keep out
the rain.

http://www.maxxair.com/products/Fan-Mate.aspx

Some people feel that this restricts the flow of the Fantastic vent
fan, but I don't find this restriction that extreeme. I did this so
that I could use the vents even in a heavy down pour of rain without
it getting wet inside. I wanted some way to circulate fresh air,
without having to open the windows, which during a rain, will allow
rain to get inside.

You can go to my photo web site, by clicking on the link in my
signature below and you will be able to find photos of this project,
as well as other tips and tricks that I have done to my 'Bird.

I hope that this helps.

"REMEMBER SEPTEMBER 11, 2001"
John Finn
'82 35FCRB
BLUEBIRD WANDERLODGE
TO VISIT THE "FINN'S INN EXPRESS" REMODELING ADVENTURE
GO TO;
http://www.pbase.com/image/24977457
'66 SUPERIOR / IH 392 GAS V8 32' PUSHER "FOR SALE"
SEE THE OLD COACH AT:
http://www.pbase.com/image/26052733
HOPKINS, SOUTH CAROLINA

[ttikalsky]

Thanks for the help and a few more questions.

Do any retail stores sell the HWH fluid?

The two rear jacks to not retract very well, about 3-4 inches of the
ram is exposed. I tried pushing the ram back in after it was flipped
up but they aren't moving. Can they be rebuilt?

There is a valve and open water pipe under the bathroom sink. Looks
like it may have turned downward thru the floor at one time. The
previous owners have attached a elbow that goes nowhere. There are
also some extra pipes with a female garden hose attachement in a bag.
Looks like they were going to add an adapter so a garden hose could
be attached. Does anyone know if this valve was originally built for
draining the water lines thru the floor of the coach?


Troy from Waconia, MN
1983 FC33


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Johnson"
wrote:
>
> Hello ttikalsky,
> 1. Fluid level may not be the problem on your jacks but it's a good
place to start. Your
> tank is located below the second entry step which is hinged to fold
out. You should see a
> small loop strap you can grab to open it up. The tank should be
pretty near full with all
> jacks retracted. Don't fill the tank with the jacks extended or
you'll get a messy spill when
> the tank overflows when you retract them.
> 2. I know some folks like to use the original camera/monitor
system. IMO you are better
> off replacing it with new hardware due to better technology and
reliability. I installed a
> black & white camera and monitor system I purchased throught Camping
World and it
> works great day or night.
> 3. You probably have a Bendix cruise control system. System is
obsolete and few, if any,
> parts are still available. I spent $1,000 on my old system before
throwing in the towel and
> replacing it with a modern unit from Cruise King. I've had the new
system for about a year
> and have had few problems with it. Factory technical support is
excellent.
> 4. I've had to replace one gas sensor. I purchased the replacent
card through
> Wanderlodge parts.
> 5. I abandoned our dash air system after replacing the compressor
and chasing freon
> leaks with the help of a refrigeration tech. Cost to bring system
up to date was too high
> for me to justify so I removed the compressor and made a simple
modification to the
> engine belts. Used the money I would've spent on the dash a/c to
replace the old barely
> able LPG generator with a PowerTech diesel generator that I run to
supply the two roof a/
> c's on the road. IMO roof airs do a much better job than dash air
of keeping the whole
> coach cool and you don't may much of a penalty on fuel mileage to
run the generator.
> Roof airs hold our coach temperature in the upper 70's on a 93-100
ºF day.
> 6. I've replaced two of our original fans with the same type that
was in there from the
> factory, I think they're made by Fantastic Fan or something like
that. They work fine.
> Don't know anything about the rain excluding type.
> Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> 84FC35SB
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "ttikalsky"
wrote:
> >
> > After 2+ years of research and searhing I finally brought home our
> > first RV, a 1983 Bluebird Wanderlodge FC 33. Can anyone help me
with
> > a few questions?
> >
> > 1) Where is the leveling jack fluid tank? The jacks won't stay
> > extended and I would like to check the level.
> >
> > 2) The rear view camera is not working (the part that mounts in
the
> > back of the coach) is it worth fixing or am I better off
replacing it?
> > Any suggestions on who or where to fix or replace?
> >
> > 3) The cruise control is not working, any suggestions on where to
> > start diagnosing the problem?
> >
> > 4) The LP/CO2/Smoke detectors alarms are going off (monitor in
galley)
> > for the center and rear furnaces, but the gas is shut off at the
main
> > valve. Are the sensors replaceable or could they be cleaned? Does
> > anyone know if they operate by opening or closing the circuit
when gas
> > is detected?
> >
> > 5) The cab a/c is not working. Is it worth fixing or will the two
> > roof airs keep the coach cool in 90 degrees at 90% humidity when
> > driving?
> >
> > 6) One of the roof vents got broken, when I leaned on it. Are the
> > Maxair convers decent or just a gimick? Is it worth getting the
one
> > that keeps the rain from entering?

[Jeff Miller]

A few answers:



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "ttikalsky"
wrote:
>
> After 2+ years of research and searhing I finally brought home our
> first RV, a 1983 Bluebird Wanderlodge FC 33. Can anyone help me
with
> a few questions?
>
> 1) Where is the leveling jack fluid tank? The jacks won't stay
> extended and I would like to check the level.

Lift the middle step, it is hinged at the front, remove four screws
and the tank is under that cover.

>
> 2) The rear view camera is not working (the part that mounts in the
> back of the coach) is it worth fixing or am I better off replacing
it?
> Any suggestions on who or where to fix or replace?

The camera can easily be replaced, the original is a C-mount lense, a
new C-mount camera can be bought from http://www.supercircuits.com or
equivalent, I use the PC-164C .0003lux ultra-low-light B&W camera but
have also used the low-light color, prefer the ultra-low-light
B&W, ... you will have to reverse two wires in the monitor to reverse
the image.

>
> 3) The cruise control is not working, any suggestions on where to
> start diagnosing the problem?

Check first for vacuum at the unit under the hood/doghouse, you have
the last year before the Bendix cruise control, I believe it is a
Dana, you could replace the whole thing with a King (very nice and
expensive), or a Rostra (less expensive and not as heavy-duty) or
search the junkyards for an all-electric unit from (I believe) a
wrecked C/K GM pickup/tahoe/suburban and see if it has enough pull to
work, ... your choice.

>
> 4) The LP/CO2/Smoke detectors alarms are going off (monitor in
galley)
> for the center and rear furnaces, but the gas is shut off at the
main
> valve. Are the sensors replaceable or could they be cleaned? Does
> anyone know if they operate by opening or closing the circuit when
gas
> is detected?

The galley monitor only alarms on detection, it is normal to alarm
when first turned on, the alarms will likely reset within 5minutes.
They should be vacuumed, and can be calibrated. The LP
monitor/shutoff is the box under the refrigerator, if an old original
one it is IMO a huge fire hazard, factory was recalling these and
yours is likely replaced.

>
> 5) The cab a/c is not working. Is it worth fixing or will the two
> roof airs keep the coach cool in 90 degrees at 90% humidity when
> driving?

I love dash A/C, keeps the driver who sits in the sun up front cool,
many don't feel it is worth saving. I'll save mine every time and
have been glad to have spent the time and money doing it.

>
> 6) One of the roof vents got broken, when I leaned on it. Are the
> Maxair convers decent or just a gimick? Is it worth getting the one
> that keeps the rain from entering?

I don't care for the Maxxair covers, take them off. Some like them,
matter of taste/opinion. Not original equipment.

- Jeff Miller
http://www.wanderlodge.net
http://www.millercoachworks.com

[Jeff Miller]

For the jacks, ATF is required.

The retract problem is common, comes from non-use.

Clean the rams on the jacks with WD-40 or whatever your favorite is,
and wipe clean. The jacks have rams to lift the coach, and rams to
kick the rams down into the vertical position, be sure to service
both. More important is the bearing at the top of the kick-down ram,
clean and lubricate it until it spins freely, this will greatly help
the retraction. Last of all is the springs, if they're weak they can
be replaced.

The line under the sink is a low-point drain when winterizing, and
leads to the outside faucet which is (was?) just forward of the
entrance step in the LP compartment (side bath).

- Jeff Miller
http://www.wanderlodge.net
http://www.millercoachworks.com


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "ttikalsky"
wrote:
>
> Thanks for the help and a few more questions.
>
> Do any retail stores sell the HWH fluid?
>
> The two rear jacks to not retract very well, about 3-4 inches of the
> ram is exposed. I tried pushing the ram back in after it was
flipped
> up but they aren't moving. Can they be rebuilt?
>
> There is a valve and open water pipe under the bathroom sink. Looks
> like it may have turned downward thru the floor at one time. The
> previous owners have attached a elbow that goes nowhere. There are
> also some extra pipes with a female garden hose attachement in a
bag.
> Looks like they were going to add an adapter so a garden hose could
> be attached. Does anyone know if this valve was originally built for
> draining the water lines thru the floor of the coach?
>
>
> Troy from Waconia, MN
> 1983 FC33

[Ernest Tumbleston]

My jacks are extending and retracting well in the front now. I bought my 80FC33
from an original owner who only used it once a year for the last 15 years. NOT
much use for the jacks. I use a silicone spray to spray on the jacks every time
I use them. I exercise them as often as I can. Now, my back jacks extend and
retract but won't quite fold back up yet. I've only been at exercising them for
a few months and it may take a bit longer. Make sure you also push completely
over the levers for the jacks. Mine stay over as far as they can go when I
retract them. Good Luck and remember, exercise, exercise and exercise
Todd Tumbleston, 80FC33, Key Largo FL

ttikalsky wrote:

Thanks for the help and a few more questions.

Do any retail stores sell the HWH fluid?

The two rear jacks to not retract very well, about 3-4 inches of the
ram is exposed. I tried pushing the ram back in after it was flipped
up but they aren't moving. Can they be rebuilt?

There is a valve and open water pipe under the bathroom sink. Looks
like it may have turned downward thru the floor at one time. The
previous owners have attached a elbow that goes nowhere. There are
also some extra pipes with a female garden hose attachement in a bag.
Looks like they were going to add an adapter so a garden hose could
be attached. Does anyone know if this valve was originally built for
draining the water lines thru the floor of the coach?


Troy from Waconia, MN
1983 FC33


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Johnson"
wrote:
>
> Hello ttikalsky,
> 1. Fluid level may not be the problem on your jacks but it's a good
place to start. Your
> tank is located below the second entry step which is hinged to fold
out. You should see a
> small loop strap you can grab to open it up. The tank should be
pretty near full with all
> jacks retracted. Don't fill the tank with the jacks extended or
you'll get a messy spill when
> the tank overflows when you retract them.
> 2. I know some folks like to use the original camera/monitor
system. IMO you are better
> off replacing it with new hardware due to better technology and
reliability. I installed a
> black & white camera and monitor system I purchased throught Camping
World and it
> works great day or night.
> 3. You probably have a Bendix cruise control system. System is
obsolete and few, if any,
> parts are still available. I spent $1,000 on my old system before
throwing in the towel and
> replacing it with a modern unit from Cruise King. I've had the new
system for about a year
> and have had few problems with it. Factory technical support is
excellent.
> 4. I've had to replace one gas sensor. I purchased the replacent
card through
> Wanderlodge parts.
> 5. I abandoned our dash air system after replacing the compressor
and chasing freon
> leaks with the help of a refrigeration tech. Cost to bring system
up to date was too high
> for me to justify so I removed the compressor and made a simple
modification to the
> engine belts. Used the money I would've spent on the dash a/c to
replace the old barely
> able LPG generator with a PowerTech diesel generator that I run to
supply the two roof a/
> c's on the road. IMO roof airs do a much better job than dash air
of keeping the whole
> coach cool and you don't may much of a penalty on fuel mileage to
run the generator.
> Roof airs hold our coach temperature in the upper 70's on a 93-100
ºF day.
> 6. I've replaced two of our original fans with the same type that
was in there from the
> factory, I think they're made by Fantastic Fan or something like
that. They work fine.
> Don't know anything about the rain excluding type.
> Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> 84FC35SB
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "ttikalsky"
wrote:
> >
> > After 2+ years of research and searhing I finally brought home our
> > first RV, a 1983 Bluebird Wanderlodge FC 33. Can anyone help me
with
> > a few questions?
> >
> > 1) Where is the leveling jack fluid tank? The jacks won't stay
> > extended and I would like to check the level.
> >
> > 2) The rear view camera is not working (the part that mounts in
the
> > back of the coach) is it worth fixing or am I better off
replacing it?
> > Any suggestions on who or where to fix or replace?
> >
> > 3) The cruise control is not working, any suggestions on where to
> > start diagnosing the problem?
> >
> > 4) The LP/CO2/Smoke detectors alarms are going off (monitor in
galley)
> > for the center and rear furnaces, but the gas is shut off at the
main
> > valve. Are the sensors replaceable or could they be cleaned? Does
> > anyone know if they operate by opening or closing the circuit
when gas
> > is detected?
> >
> > 5) The cab a/c is not working. Is it worth fixing or will the two
> > roof airs keep the coach cool in 90 degrees at 90% humidity when
> > driving?
> >
> > 6) One of the roof vents got broken, when I leaned on it. Are the
> > Maxair convers decent or just a gimick? Is it worth getting the
one
> > that keeps the rain from entering?





---------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum/

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
WanderlodgeForum-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Miller]

Silicone sprays often have a pretty aggressive solvent/carrier, I would
avoid getting it in the seals of the jacks.

- Jeff Miller
http://www.wanderlodge.net
http://www.millercoachworks.com


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Ernest Tumbleston
wrote:
> My jacks are extending and retracting well in the front now. I
bought my 80FC33 from an original owner who only used it once a year
for the last 15 years. NOT much use for the jacks. I use a silicone
spray to spray on the jacks every time I use them. I exercise them as
often as I can. Now, my back jacks extend and retract but won't quite
fold back up yet. I've only been at exercising them for a few months
and it may take a bit longer. Make sure you also push completely over
the levers for the jacks. Mine stay over as far as they can go when I
retract them. Good Luck and remember, exercise, exercise and exercise
> Todd Tumbleston, 80FC33, Key Largo FL

[ttikalsky]

I checked the fluid level and it is OK. After a little more use I got
the front two jacks working decent. The left rear jack works OK but
the right rear jack is fully extended and will not release. I have
the lever in the retract position but the jack does not move. I used a
screwdriver to wedge between the small (flip down) jack and pushed the
ram back in pretty easily. The big ram will not move! I jacked the
rear corner up and flipped the jack up and gave it a couple of soft
hits on the bottom of the pad but it did not move. Could the release
valve in the main ram be stuck? Will opening the bleed valve help?

Jeff, you mention the PC-164C .0003lux ultra-low-light B&W camera.
What lense would you recommend? You also mentioned switching two wires
to reverse the image. Which wires and is it difficult?

Thanks, Troy in Waconia, MN 1983 FC33



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Miller"
wrote:
>
> A few answers:
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "ttikalsky"

> wrote:
> >
> > After 2+ years of research and searhing I finally brought home our
> > first RV, a 1983 Bluebird Wanderlodge FC 33. Can anyone help me
> with
> > a few questions?
> >
> > 1) Where is the leveling jack fluid tank? The jacks won't stay
> > extended and I would like to check the level.
>
> Lift the middle step, it is hinged at the front, remove four screws
> and the tank is under that cover.
>
> >
> > 2) The rear view camera is not working (the part that mounts in
the
> > back of the coach) is it worth fixing or am I better off
replacing
> it?
> > Any suggestions on who or where to fix or replace?
>
> The camera can easily be replaced, the original is a C-mount lense,
a
> new C-mount camera can be bought from http://www.supercircuits.com or
> equivalent, I use the PC-164C .0003lux ultra-low-light B&W camera
but
> have also used the low-light color, prefer the ultra-low-light
> B&W, ... you will have to reverse two wires in the monitor to
reverse
> the image.
>
> >
> > 3) The cruise control is not working, any suggestions on where to
> > start diagnosing the problem?
>
> Check first for vacuum at the unit under the hood/doghouse, you
have
> the last year before the Bendix cruise control, I believe it is a
> Dana, you could replace the whole thing with a King (very nice and
> expensive), or a Rostra (less expensive and not as heavy-duty) or
> search the junkyards for an all-electric unit from (I believe) a
> wrecked C/K GM pickup/tahoe/suburban and see if it has enough pull
to
> work, ... your choice.
>
> >
> > 4) The LP/CO2/Smoke detectors alarms are going off (monitor in
> galley)
> > for the center and rear furnaces, but the gas is shut off at the
> main
> > valve. Are the sensors replaceable or could they be cleaned? Does
> > anyone know if they operate by opening or closing the circuit
when
> gas
> > is detected?
>
> The galley monitor only alarms on detection, it is normal to alarm
> when first turned on, the alarms will likely reset within 5minutes.
> They should be vacuumed, and can be calibrated. The LP
> monitor/shutoff is the box under the refrigerator, if an old
original
> one it is IMO a huge fire hazard, factory was recalling these and
> yours is likely replaced.
>
> >
> > 5) The cab a/c is not working. Is it worth fixing or will the two
> > roof airs keep the coach cool in 90 degrees at 90% humidity when
> > driving?
>
> I love dash A/C, keeps the driver who sits in the sun up front
cool,
> many don't feel it is worth saving. I'll save mine every time and
> have been glad to have spent the time and money doing it.
>
> >
> > 6) One of the roof vents got broken, when I leaned on it. Are the
> > Maxair convers decent or just a gimick? Is it worth getting the
one
> > that keeps the rain from entering?
>
> I don't care for the Maxxair covers, take them off. Some like them,
> matter of taste/opinion. Not original equipment.
>
> - Jeff Miller
> http://www.wanderlodge.net
> http://www.millercoachworks.com

[Jeff Miller]

On the ram you could try raising the airbags, put some wood blocks
under the jack, dump air, ... repeat until retracted. If it holds the
weight of the coach you likely have a problem with the raise/lower
valve.

As far as the camera, the original lense will fit ("C-mount lense).
If it has a milky appearance to the inner lense surface, it needs
replacement (unless you're able to remove the coating).

The two wires that need reversing are the red and blue horizontal
wires which will reverse the image of the TV also, unless you use a
relay to reverse them only when the ignition is on (backup camera
use). The file with those photos might be in the files section, or I
can replace them. The original monitor system MFGR (PMMI)
did "design" a two-relay system, I prefer a DPDT relay setup (less
possibility of a short destroying the monitor system) and have photos
somewhere of the installation. Easier is to just reverse it and not
use it as a TV.

- Jeff Miller
http://www.wanderlodge.net
http://www.millercoachworks.com


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "ttikalsky"
wrote:
>
> I checked the fluid level and it is OK. After a little more use I
got
> the front two jacks working decent. The left rear jack works OK but
> the right rear jack is fully extended and will not release. I have
> the lever in the retract position but the jack does not move. I
used a
> screwdriver to wedge between the small (flip down) jack and pushed
the
> ram back in pretty easily. The big ram will not move! I jacked the
> rear corner up and flipped the jack up and gave it a couple of soft
> hits on the bottom of the pad but it did not move. Could the
release
> valve in the main ram be stuck? Will opening the bleed valve help?
>
> Jeff, you mention the PC-164C .0003lux ultra-low-light B&W camera.
> What lense would you recommend? You also mentioned switching two
wires
> to reverse the image. Which wires and is it difficult?
>
> Thanks, Troy in Waconia, MN 1983 FC33
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Miller"

> wrote:
> >
> > A few answers:
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "ttikalsky"
>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > After 2+ years of research and searhing I finally brought home
our
> > > first RV, a 1983 Bluebird Wanderlodge FC 33. Can anyone help
me
> > with
> > > a few questions?
> > >
> > > 1) Where is the leveling jack fluid tank? The jacks won't stay
> > > extended and I would like to check the level.
> >
> > Lift the middle step, it is hinged at the front, remove four
screws
> > and the tank is under that cover.
> >
> > >
> > > 2) The rear view camera is not working (the part that mounts in
> the
> > > back of the coach) is it worth fixing or am I better off
> replacing
> > it?
> > > Any suggestions on who or where to fix or replace?
> >
> > The camera can easily be replaced, the original is a C-mount
lense,
> a
> > new C-mount camera can be bought from http://www.supercircuits.com or
> > equivalent, I use the PC-164C .0003lux ultra-low-light B&W camera
> but
> > have also used the low-light color, prefer the ultra-low-light
> > B&W, ... you will have to reverse two wires in the monitor to
> reverse
> > the image.
> >
> > >
> > > 3) The cruise control is not working, any suggestions on where
to
> > > start diagnosing the problem?
> >
> > Check first for vacuum at the unit under the hood/doghouse, you
> have
> > the last year before the Bendix cruise control, I believe it is a
> > Dana, you could replace the whole thing with a King (very nice
and
> > expensive), or a Rostra (less expensive and not as heavy-duty) or
> > search the junkyards for an all-electric unit from (I believe) a
> > wrecked C/K GM pickup/tahoe/suburban and see if it has enough pull
> to
> > work, ... your choice.
> >
> > >
> > > 4) The LP/CO2/Smoke detectors alarms are going off (monitor in
> > galley)
> > > for the center and rear furnaces, but the gas is shut off at
the
> > main
> > > valve. Are the sensors replaceable or could they be cleaned?
Does
> > > anyone know if they operate by opening or closing the circuit
> when
> > gas
> > > is detected?
> >
> > The galley monitor only alarms on detection, it is normal to
alarm
> > when first turned on, the alarms will likely reset within
5minutes.
> > They should be vacuumed, and can be calibrated. The LP
> > monitor/shutoff is the box under the refrigerator, if an old
> original
> > one it is IMO a huge fire hazard, factory was recalling these and
> > yours is likely replaced.
> >
> > >
> > > 5) The cab a/c is not working. Is it worth fixing or will the
two
> > > roof airs keep the coach cool in 90 degrees at 90% humidity when
> > > driving?
> >
> > I love dash A/C, keeps the driver who sits in the sun up front
> cool,
> > many don't feel it is worth saving. I'll save mine every time and
> > have been glad to have spent the time and money doing it.
> >
> > >
> > > 6) One of the roof vents got broken, when I leaned on it. Are
the
> > > Maxair convers decent or just a gimick? Is it worth getting the
> one
> > > that keeps the rain from entering?
> >
> > I don't care for the Maxxair covers, take them off. Some like
them,
> > matter of taste/opinion. Not original equipment.
> >
> > - Jeff Miller
> > http://www.wanderlodge.net
> > http://www.millercoachworks.com