Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace
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09-29-2008, 06:26
Post: #11
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Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace
You know when you step in crap the hard part is getting rid of it
after you've stepped in it I just order some exhaust parts from BB they had two of the three parts. Well I didn't need that other pipe just thought I'd replace it anyway you know preventive maintenance, ( Sorry about wise crack Allan ) Well I need the part now. Take a look at the photo I posted, VERY BAD! I wonder how long it's been like this. Kurt Horvath 95 PT 42 10AC --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath" wrote: > > Gregg, > > I want spokes on the wheels! :} > > I usually run it on LP. I'll give the 110 V a chance. > > Kurt Horvath > 95 PT 42 > 10AC > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor" > > > > > Kurt, > > > > What,, Whitewalls ? > > > > try running the refer on the inverter when you travel. (may have > to > > run an extension cord to the refer mechanical compartment) running > > it 110volts with good result (cold beer) would rule out airmovement > > and point issue at lpg heater or the flame its self. you may have > so > > much air flow going down the road that the gradual cooling > necessary > > for amonia evaporation is compramised, or the flame turns white > and > > heat gets sucked past the boiler???? Or the flame constantly > > requires relighting with all the turbulance. maybe 110 and no fan > > will work better while traveling?? > > > > I wonder if the hotbedroom is not mostly the heat from the tranny > > and tires being trapped up against the bell end of the engine?? the > > stack may be a minimal issue and more tolerable if there was a way > > to vent the tire tranny area?? > > > > Greg94ptCa > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath" > > wrote: > > > > > > I was pretty sure most views would be against the insulation > wrap. > > It > > > doesn't seem to have a good reputation in respect to corrosion > > > issues. Pete is correct it did corrode from the inside out. > > > > > > I thought about ceramic coating before insulating with wrap,the > > cost > > > is not in the budget. The people I spoke with asked if I could > get > > to > > > the inner parts and that it would be a better application if they > > > could coat the interior as well as the exterior of the muffler. > > > Doesn't look like that will happen. > > > > > > Several people have recommended a straight stack. What are the > > > positive & negative aspects of a straight stack? It would be the > > > best as far as getting the most clearance in the tunnel and would > > > greatly increase the area for convection to occur. I would think > > that > > > with a small modification to the mounts it would be easier to > > install > > > than the huge muffle that's in there now. The fact that the > > muffler > > > is just a tube at this point noise is not very much an issue. > > > > > > Kurt Horvath > > > 95 PT 42 > > > 10AC > > > > > > |
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09-29-2008, 07:13
Post: #12
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Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace
While the bus at idle seems to have the same noise level with the
old, worn out vs. the new muffler, I do notice that while underway it's quieter. This is especially noticeable when the jake brake cuts in. I also notice that the jake brake seems to not have quite as much braking effect as before the muffler was replaced. I don't know what legalities are involved with a straight-through pipe -- for example, in Colorado, the law requires that jake brakes, if used, must be "muffled." However, when driving through Colorado with my old muffler, I never seemed to attract the attention of the state patrol... Pete Masterson '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42 aeonix1@... On the road near Scranton, PA On Sep 29, 2008, at 11:33 AM, Kurt Horvath wrote: > I was pretty sure most views would be against the insulation wrap. It > doesn't seem to have a good reputation in respect to corrosion > issues. Pete is correct it did corrode from the inside out. > > I thought about ceramic coating before insulating with wrap,the cost > is not in the budget. The people I spoke with asked if I could get to > the inner parts and that it would be a better application if they > could coat the interior as well as the exterior of the muffler. > Doesn't look like that will happen. > > Several people have recommended a straight stack. What are the > positive & negative aspects of a straight stack? It would be the > best as far as getting the most clearance in the tunnel and would > greatly increase the area for convection to occur. I would think that > with a small modification to the mounts it would be easier to install > than the huge muffle that's in there now. The fact that the muffler > is just a tube at this point noise is not very much an issue. > > Kurt Horvath > 95 PT 42 > 10AC > |
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09-29-2008, 07:15
Post: #13
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Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace
the proverbial step proved a smell. The resulting smell is a clue to
the problem. Maybe the resulting smell of your crack (exhaust pipe in the pic)is the heat in the bedroom? Greg94ptCa --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath" wrote: > You know when you step in crap the hard part is getting rid of it > after you've stepped in it > Kurt Horvath > 95 PT 42 > 10AC |
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09-29-2008, 07:48
Post: #14
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Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace
I would think so the crack is on the top of the pipe. Lucky it didn't
burn me up. Kurt95PT10AC --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor" > > the proverbial step proved a smell. The resulting smell is a clue to > the problem. Maybe the resulting smell of your crack (exhaust pipe in > the pic)is the heat in the bedroom? > > Greg94ptCa > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath" > wrote: > > > You know when you step in crap the hard part is getting rid of it > > after you've stepped in it > > > Kurt Horvath > > 95 PT 42 > > 10AC > |
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09-29-2008, 08:22
Post: #15
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Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace
Whoa! Just checked those pictures. Are you lucky or what?!
Mike Bulriss 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan" San Antonio, TX -- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath" > > I would think so the crack is on the top of the pipe. Lucky it didn't > burn me up. > Kurt95PT10AC > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor" > > > > > the proverbial step proved a smell. The resulting smell is a clue to > > the problem. Maybe the resulting smell of your crack (exhaust pipe in > > the pic)is the heat in the bedroom? > > > > Greg94ptCa > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath" > > wrote: > > > > > You know when you step in crap the hard part is getting rid of it > > > after you've stepped in it > > > > > Kurt Horvath > > > 95 PT 42 > > > 10AC > > > |
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09-29-2008, 09:02
Post: #16
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Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace
Mike
I guess my decision to cancel my annual trip to San Antonio was a blessing in disguise Kurt Horvath 95 PT 42 10AC --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@...> wrote: > > Whoa! Just checked those pictures. Are you lucky or what?! > > Mike Bulriss > 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan" > San Antonio, TX > > > > > -- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath" wrote: > > > > I would think so the crack is on the top of the pipe. Lucky it didn't > > burn me up. > > Kurt95PT10AC > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor" > > > > > > > > the proverbial step proved a smell. The resulting smell is a clue to > > > the problem. Maybe the resulting smell of your crack (exhaust pipe in > > > the pic)is the heat in the bedroom? > > > > > > Greg94ptCa > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath" > > > wrote: > > > > > > > You know when you step in crap the hard part is getting rid of it > > > > after you've stepped in it > > > > > > > Kurt Horvath > > > > 95 PT 42 > > > > 10AC > > > > > > |
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09-29-2008, 13:06
Post: #17
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Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace
Kurt in disguise,
your decision was an intuitive reaction to conscious signs. Your familys blessing is your attention to detail. I remember your old post about excessive bedroom heat. that must have been one of the conscious signs. Kinda hard to post that the bedroom is hot and get confirmation that there exist an issue, my bedroom gets warm too. hot,cold, noisy, and fat lack a value and require an understanding of authors reference. May be a service to take a temp prior to your repair than after with like variables ;engine temp ;ambient temp ;without ac cooling. Greg94ptCa "do I look fat in this" another question that gets intuitive responce. --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath" wrote: > > > > Mike > > I guess my decision to cancel my annual trip to San Antonio was a > blessing in disguise > > Kurt Horvath > 95 PT 42 > 10AC > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@> > wrote: > > > > Whoa! Just checked those pictures. Are you lucky or what?! > > > > Mike Bulriss > > 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan" > > San Antonio, TX > > > > > > > > > > -- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath" > wrote: > > > > > > I would think so the crack is on the top of the pipe. Lucky it > didn't > > > burn me up. > > > Kurt95PT10AC > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor" > > > > > > > > > > > the proverbial step proved a smell. The resulting smell is a > clue to > > > > the problem. Maybe the resulting smell of your crack (exhaust > pipe in > > > > the pic)is the heat in the bedroom? > > > > > > > > Greg94ptCa > > > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath" > > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > You know when you step in crap the hard part is getting rid > of it > > > > > after you've stepped in it > > > > > > > > > Kurt Horvath > > > > > 95 PT 42 > > > > > 10AC > > > > > > > > > > |
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09-30-2008, 02:07
Post: #18
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Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace
Kurt, repairing exhaust cracks is one of those places where overbuild
can get you in trouble. the engine is rubber mounted. it shakes and rolls with torque. the exhaust cantilivers off the engine and is mounted more ridgid. if you dont allow or facilitate the movement, the stress of the union will recrack the repair. The repair could also get too strong and force a new weak point. often that weak point is the manifold. deep sleve unions and clamps allow for twisting. there is also the fact that when the system heats up the metal expands and lengthens the pipes. I dont think it is the cause of the crack in the bus but in a car or light truck, often an exhaust crack close the manifold is a result of a failed motormount allowing too much engine movement. greg94pt |
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