Low Air Buzzer

[James Harvie]

I have a slight problem, that needs to be adressed. I have no low air buzzer, or
light. I thought I'd start by checking the pressure switch. Can someone please
tell me, where it is on my 82 FC? I saw one on the front right air tank. Is this
the one?. I also have a fuel leak comming from the pump area. I haven't taken
off the air filter to troubleshoot where it's comming from I'm thinking it may
be a leaky Governor seal. If this is the case. I'm going to remove the pump do
a little work to it. I had a 3406 Cat once, and I had Cat set the rail pressure
up 10%. Has anyone done this with the 3208? Also, when I have the air filter
off, I plan on adding the extra air inlet, using 4" dryer vent. My question is
this, what position should I bore the hole in the housing? 4 oclock and run the
ductwork over the bellhousing? thanks
Jimmy Harvie 82FC Boston Ma

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Chuck Wheeler]

Sounds like you found it! Mine's on the right side front tank on a TEE at
the rear of the tank. The wiring plugs in. You can jumper the wiring, if
the buzzer goes off the switch is bad. I had the opposite problem, buzzer
would not go off..bad switch.



- Chuck Wheeler -

82 FC 31 SB

Fort Worth, TX

_____

From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of James Harvie
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 10:44 PM
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Low Air Buzzer



I have a slight problem, that needs to be adressed. I have no low air
buzzer, or light. I thought I'd start by checking the pressure switch. Can
someone please tell me, where it is on my 82 FC? I saw one on the front
right air tank. Is this the one?. I also have a fuel leak comming from the
pump area. I haven't taken off the air filter to troubleshoot where it's
comming from I'm thinking it may be a leaky Governor seal. If this is the
case. I'm going to remove the pump do a little work to it. I had a 3406 Cat
once, and I had Cat set the rail pressure up 10%. Has anyone done this with
the 3208? Also, when I have the air filter off, I plan on adding the extra
air inlet, using 4" dryer vent. My question is this, what position should I
bore the hole in the housing? 4 oclock and run the ductwork over the
bellhousing? thanks Jimmy Harvie 82FC Boston Ma

---------------------------------
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[putneyflash@...>]

If you turn fuel to the engine she may run hot on you if your air intake or
cooling system is marginial
re brake FC-35.
>
> From: James Harvie > Date: 2007/03/19 Mon PM 11:44:21 EST
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Low Air Buzzer
>
> I have a slight problem, that needs to be adressed. I have no low air buzzer,
or light. I thought I'd start by checking the pressure switch. Can someone
please tell me, where it is on my 82 FC? I saw one on the front right air tank.
Is this the one?. I also have a fuel leak comming from the pump area. I haven't
taken off the air filter to troubleshoot where it's comming from I'm thinking it
may be a leaky Governor seal. If this is the case. I'm going to remove the pump
do a little work to it. I had a 3406 Cat once, and I had Cat set the rail
pressure up 10%. Has anyone done this with the 3208? Also, when I have the air
filter off, I plan on adding the extra air inlet, using 4" dryer vent. My
question is this, what position should I bore the hole in the housing? 4 oclock
and run the ductwork over the bellhousing? thanks
Jimmy Harvie 82FC Boston Ma
>
> ---------------------------------
> Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
> in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>

[James Harvie]

I had no low air buzzer, or light, and thanks to a tip from this forum, I didn't
have to waste any time tracking down the switch. It's a 2 pole switch, located
on the front right tank. One of the wires was broken off at the end, from
corrosion. I bought a new switch part # 22875ON (Bendix), for $23.80 Available
at Fleetpride. I'm not sure if the price was in check, but they're close, and I
needed one.lol. When I install it, I'll throw some silicone over the
connections. This keeps the connections clean and dry.It also lowers the risk of
a short circut causing fires.(I hate that smell of burning wires.lol)Then I'll
do all of the rest of the external connections at the solonoids etc. I also
bought some Velvac pull drain valves, for my air tanks. For those who don't
know, these are spring loaded drain valves, that replace those petcocks. Mine
were rusted shut with the holes plugged from the wasps.I got them lose, and to
my surprise there was no water, or oil in them. These
pull drains have a cable that you run off the side of your bus, so you can
drain the tanks without any effort. When I install mine, I'll run the cable
through some sort of conduit. Living in New England, the ice can build up on the
cable and although it takes a little effort to open the valve, enough ice and
this can happen.I'm going to check out my air lines too. For years I have used
old heater hose, and raidiator hose cut and sliced, and wrapped around any hoses
or electrical wires that even come close to chaffing I secure them with nylon
ties. Trust me, this can save you thousands Here's another little tip that may
help someone. When cutting heater hoses to lenght, I mark where I'm going to
cut, then fold the hose in half, Take the sheetrock or razor knife, and gently
drag it across cut it half way, turn it over bend it again and cut the other
half, The tension on the rubber makes this an easy cut

Jimmy Harvie

82 FC 35 SB

Boston Ma.


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