Elbow grease or chemical cleaners?
That's also why I'm not in any hurry to get the insulation. We're going to be above 80 today, so I may just wait until the late fall to truly start on things.
I should have warned you Markus, my bad! I spent many hours with a heat gun and a razor blade scraper removing the old gummy adhesive and scrubbing the panels clean. Some of the panels I then painted. If you do this be sure to add a hardener. Even still, the 3M8090 adhesive requires firm pressure for 10 to 15s to activate the adhesive.
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/lisle-ra...nAodG08Ayw
Yup, bought a similar tool and between that and charcoal lighter fluid, the gunk is now gone. Some scraping, applying lighter fluid with a rag loosened the glue up, more scraping, more wiping and its now history. The last few sheets should stick just fine now, considering 2 of the 3 first sheets I put up stuck just fine. I'm not repainting anything, as its too cold, I'm not anal enough, and I have too many other things to do to worry about paint hidden behind insulation I'll never see. I know David, you probably hate hearing that, but I have to draw the limit somewhere!
LOL
I wonder if the adhesive will work better if you keep the cans inside your nice warm house overnight? It's a nasty job Markus, but it is worth it, especially if you use standoffs and tape the seems good. It's amazing how much cooler my bedroom stays. Oh, I remember now why I spent so much time on the engine compartment and insulation. I was waiting for my Duralite charge air cooler to be made and shipped from Calgary. I had the luxury of time.
Tell us about the standoffs and tape, please.
Tape is for the seams between the pieces/sheets of insulation. Standoffs are so that anything you reattach "stands off" from the metal by the thickness of the insulation, otherwise it would compress it which isn't desirable. I poked holes and then cut pieces of leftover PEX tubing into 1" long pieces, popped it in the hole I made, then put a screw with large washer in that spot to help keep the insulation in place. This is a job I don't want to have to do again, so it was just an additional way to secure the stuff in place. In addition, there may be some wiring or hoses or whatever bolted to the ceiling or walls and again, you don't want the screws to compress the insulation.
John, this stuff worked for me:
http://www.shurtape.com/Default.aspx?Tab...roductID=3 but almost any HVAC tape will probably do. Experiment with a few. Remember, I had time on my hands
so I used these for standoffs, 10-32 thread screwed into rivnuts installed in the engine compartment ceiling. I have a profound dislike for sheet metal screws.
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Thanks, Marcus! I figured David had some high speed, low drag liquid plutonium tape that molecularly bonded with the insulation and somehow raised its R value exponentially! Probably has found some compressed graphite standoffs that don't transfer any heat, yet are better than the screws that came out. He's such an overachiever!!
big bird, I was in the engine compartment the other day,
polishing my air clean, when I noticed turbulent drag from my side louvers inducing eddie currents in and around my graphite standoffs, luckily a little ShurTape AF912 to the rescue!
