http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/ Mon, 04 May 2026 10:36:32 +0000 MyBB http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11375 Wed, 29 Jan 2020 18:45:58 +0000 http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11375
It is almost done. sorry for the sideways pic. They are straight on my PC?


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It is almost done. sorry for the sideways pic. They are straight on my PC?


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  IMG_0598.jpg (Size: 826.67 KB / Downloads: 1327) ]]> http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10211 Sun, 11 May 2014 15:46:13 +0000 http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10211
I'm adding an addition on to my Morton Building to house SpongeBob. The addition will add 37.5' to the length of the building and over 2000 sq ft of usable conditioned interior space. I'll have two overhead doors, 14'x14', to allow driving clear through the barn. The barn dimensions are currently 60'x75'; this will jump to 60'x112.5' when complete. I'm open to all suggestions:


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I'm adding an addition on to my Morton Building to house SpongeBob. The addition will add 37.5' to the length of the building and over 2000 sq ft of usable conditioned interior space. I'll have two overhead doors, 14'x14', to allow driving clear through the barn. The barn dimensions are currently 60'x75'; this will jump to 60'x112.5' when complete. I'm open to all suggestions:


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  Barn Design Sideviews II (37.5 feet).png (Size: 84.29 KB / Downloads: 1448) ]]> http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10100 Mon, 02 Dec 2013 01:24:29 +0000 http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10100
i am the process of getting going on a shop out back of my house. it will be 70 deep and 65 wide with 18' sidewalls and either a 2/12 or 3/12 pitch roof.

i am designing it so there can be side by side 45' rigs in it if needed.

so the question at hand is two.....

1. i am planning on doing two 14x14 doors. and i will be backing into the shop. what width door do you guys have or recommend?

2. lighting. the engineer is in analysis paralasis (hey i cant spell either) in foot candles at waist etc. i do not want metal halide high bay so it is either cfl high bay (around 9k lumens per fixture) or t5 HO 4' high bay fixtures. they put out a lot more light. any suggestions for how many foot candles for a comfortable shop?

i had a camera buff friend (and fellow newell owner) go around town to measure lighting in various places in foot candles. lowes was 50, other big box stores ranged from 30 to 80. it is easy to say do 80 but it gets very expensive. ....i am retired and on a budget now ha

any thoughts or experiences that you have had would be welcomed.

happy sunday

tom

http://www.newellgurus.com]]>
i am the process of getting going on a shop out back of my house. it will be 70 deep and 65 wide with 18' sidewalls and either a 2/12 or 3/12 pitch roof.

i am designing it so there can be side by side 45' rigs in it if needed.

so the question at hand is two.....

1. i am planning on doing two 14x14 doors. and i will be backing into the shop. what width door do you guys have or recommend?

2. lighting. the engineer is in analysis paralasis (hey i cant spell either) in foot candles at waist etc. i do not want metal halide high bay so it is either cfl high bay (around 9k lumens per fixture) or t5 HO 4' high bay fixtures. they put out a lot more light. any suggestions for how many foot candles for a comfortable shop?

i had a camera buff friend (and fellow newell owner) go around town to measure lighting in various places in foot candles. lowes was 50, other big box stores ranged from 30 to 80. it is easy to say do 80 but it gets very expensive. ....i am retired and on a budget now ha

any thoughts or experiences that you have had would be welcomed.

happy sunday

tom

http://www.newellgurus.com]]> http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=9857 Wed, 12 Jun 2013 20:25:51 +0000 http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=9857
The original drive was done with 6" 3500psi concrete and 3/8" rebar on 24" OC. It cracked the first time I drove over it (this was AFTER it had cured for at least 30d). It now has numerous cracks in it and has been driven over about 30 times total.

So in considering the new drive, I want to avoid that cracking. I fully understand that some cracking is inevitable, especially with the spongy soil I've got, but the parking slab is subjected to MUCH more long term weight and only has a few cracks in it, all of which are due to soil, not bus weight.

I'm being told that wire mesh will help avoid the cracking, but not finding much corroborating evidence to back up that claim online.

So do I stick with the rebar or try the wire mesh? The drive will not normally have anything parked on it and the heaviest thing driving across it will be the bird.]]>
The original drive was done with 6" 3500psi concrete and 3/8" rebar on 24" OC. It cracked the first time I drove over it (this was AFTER it had cured for at least 30d). It now has numerous cracks in it and has been driven over about 30 times total.

So in considering the new drive, I want to avoid that cracking. I fully understand that some cracking is inevitable, especially with the spongy soil I've got, but the parking slab is subjected to MUCH more long term weight and only has a few cracks in it, all of which are due to soil, not bus weight.

I'm being told that wire mesh will help avoid the cracking, but not finding much corroborating evidence to back up that claim online.

So do I stick with the rebar or try the wire mesh? The drive will not normally have anything parked on it and the heaviest thing driving across it will be the bird.]]> http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=50 Thu, 14 Feb 2013 19:51:22 +0000 http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=50
Chuck

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Chuck

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