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		<title><![CDATA[Wanderlodge Gurus - The Member Funded Wanderlodge Forum - Electrical]]></title>
		<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Wanderlodge Gurus - The Member Funded Wanderlodge Forum - http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Apr 2026 06:40:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<generator>MyBB</generator>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[PERKINS  KOHLER]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11436</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jan 2022 15:54:32 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11436</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[DOES ANYONE HAVE THE ACTUAL PERKINS MODEL NUMBER OF THIS 1985 PT40 GENSET ENGINE?<br />
THANK YOU<br />
GARY<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2215" target="_blank">20210309_124103.jpg</a> (Size: 3.97 MB / Downloads: 772)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[DOES ANYONE HAVE THE ACTUAL PERKINS MODEL NUMBER OF THIS 1985 PT40 GENSET ENGINE?<br />
THANK YOU<br />
GARY<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2215" target="_blank">20210309_124103.jpg</a> (Size: 3.97 MB / Downloads: 772)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Panel light bulbs replaceable?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11393</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 27 May 2020 13:05:10 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11393</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[None of the panel light switches in my M380 actually turn on the panel lights.  I pulled the panel over the dining room table, but it is not apparent (to me at least) how the bulb/fixture comes off the panel.  I don't want to break anything.  <br />
<br />
My multi-meter is still at our old house, but I will have it later today and can check that the bulbs are actually getting power.  Assuming that is the case, any hints/tips on how to remove the bulb/fixture so that I can replace them?<br />
<br />
Alternatively, any suggestions where the fuse(s) might be?  Everything else seems to be working just fine.<br />
<br />
Thanks!<br />
<br />
Russ Marlowe<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2188" target="_blank">Panel light.jpg</a> (Size: 1.19 MB / Downloads: 893)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[None of the panel light switches in my M380 actually turn on the panel lights.  I pulled the panel over the dining room table, but it is not apparent (to me at least) how the bulb/fixture comes off the panel.  I don't want to break anything.  <br />
<br />
My multi-meter is still at our old house, but I will have it later today and can check that the bulbs are actually getting power.  Assuming that is the case, any hints/tips on how to remove the bulb/fixture so that I can replace them?<br />
<br />
Alternatively, any suggestions where the fuse(s) might be?  Everything else seems to be working just fine.<br />
<br />
Thanks!<br />
<br />
Russ Marlowe<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2188" target="_blank">Panel light.jpg</a> (Size: 1.19 MB / Downloads: 893)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Need Electrical schematic for 2000 LTC-40]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11388</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 10 Mar 2020 02:09:46 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11388</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Need Electrical schematic for 2000 LTC-40<br />
<br />
<br />
DD s60<br />
<br />
Can anyone help me?<br />
<br />
in particular I need schematic 19, which is currently unreadable on my service manual.<img src="images/smilies/undecided.gif" style="vertical-align: middle;" border="0" alt="Undecided" title="Undecided" /><br />
<br />
Thank you in advance!<br />
<br />
Mason]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Need Electrical schematic for 2000 LTC-40<br />
<br />
<br />
DD s60<br />
<br />
Can anyone help me?<br />
<br />
in particular I need schematic 19, which is currently unreadable on my service manual.<img src="images/smilies/undecided.gif" style="vertical-align: middle;" border="0" alt="Undecided" title="Undecided" /><br />
<br />
Thank you in advance!<br />
<br />
Mason]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[RC7 inverter control panel]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11363</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 21 Aug 2019 23:18:13 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11363</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[This recent heat is killing everything. First the start capacitor for the gen set cooling fan, which was fun to replace, then the 5 month old gen set battery. <br />
<br />
Now I need a Trace RC7 control monitor for one of the inverters. Anybody have one?  Or a solid lead to a source. <br />
<br />
Thanks,]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[This recent heat is killing everything. First the start capacitor for the gen set cooling fan, which was fun to replace, then the 5 month old gen set battery. <br />
<br />
Now I need a Trace RC7 control monitor for one of the inverters. Anybody have one?  Or a solid lead to a source. <br />
<br />
Thanks,]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Inverter buzzing]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11330</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 19 Nov 2018 14:22:58 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11330</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[My inverter in my M380 started buzzing the day after I arrived home from TGO. If I unplug the coach, the buzzing stops. Plug it back in and the buzzing returns. I turned inverter off at the inverter box and on the remote control, the buzzing continued.<br />
<br />
What has happened? It used to be quiet. Seems to work correctly.<br />
<br />
Thanks]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[My inverter in my M380 started buzzing the day after I arrived home from TGO. If I unplug the coach, the buzzing stops. Plug it back in and the buzzing returns. I turned inverter off at the inverter box and on the remote control, the buzzing continued.<br />
<br />
What has happened? It used to be quiet. Seems to work correctly.<br />
<br />
Thanks]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Fan-Tastic fan wiring info needed SP36]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11290</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 02 Aug 2018 22:09:51 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11290</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello! I have a 1991 SP36, and the Fantastic vent in the bath has always had its troubles...it finally worked its way to the top of the list, and the wiring... well, the wiring... a mess of butt connectors and wires not connected to anything. I was able to get the fan running in and out, at all speeds, but it has the motorized lid lift, and there is the problem. I do not know which wires go to the switch contained in the lid lift arm assembly, and the motor that lifts the lid. I have a brown wire, and a black wire that comes from the bus. The motor runs off a monetary spring back switch located on the bulkhead with the overhead 12v thinkite switch, and the switch for the 12v light behind the toilet. I need to figure out which wires connect to allow me to use the momentary switch to open and close the lid. What I need is which wires (color) connect to 1) the switch located in the lid lift assembly 2) I have the positive wire (red) for the motor, but which wire (color) attaches to the other terminal on the lid lifter motor? A couple of pictures of the mess I found are attached, if I did the attachment properly! Thank you much<br />
<br />
Brad Barrett<br />
1991 sp36 “Lola”<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpeg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2151" target="_blank">77884849-B2E5-4A60-82AB-A5A815D3CEB1.jpeg</a> (Size: 1.63 MB / Downloads: 902)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpeg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2149" target="_blank">2B0FB037-D5F4-4845-8E2E-6BD1601D07E0.jpeg</a> (Size: 1.68 MB / Downloads: 837)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpeg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2150" target="_blank">6726F870-479E-4830-B030-663977D006B1.jpeg</a> (Size: 1.63 MB / Downloads: 829)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hello! I have a 1991 SP36, and the Fantastic vent in the bath has always had its troubles...it finally worked its way to the top of the list, and the wiring... well, the wiring... a mess of butt connectors and wires not connected to anything. I was able to get the fan running in and out, at all speeds, but it has the motorized lid lift, and there is the problem. I do not know which wires go to the switch contained in the lid lift arm assembly, and the motor that lifts the lid. I have a brown wire, and a black wire that comes from the bus. The motor runs off a monetary spring back switch located on the bulkhead with the overhead 12v thinkite switch, and the switch for the 12v light behind the toilet. I need to figure out which wires connect to allow me to use the momentary switch to open and close the lid. What I need is which wires (color) connect to 1) the switch located in the lid lift assembly 2) I have the positive wire (red) for the motor, but which wire (color) attaches to the other terminal on the lid lifter motor? A couple of pictures of the mess I found are attached, if I did the attachment properly! Thank you much<br />
<br />
Brad Barrett<br />
1991 sp36 “Lola”<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpeg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2151" target="_blank">77884849-B2E5-4A60-82AB-A5A815D3CEB1.jpeg</a> (Size: 1.63 MB / Downloads: 902)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpeg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2149" target="_blank">2B0FB037-D5F4-4845-8E2E-6BD1601D07E0.jpeg</a> (Size: 1.68 MB / Downloads: 837)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpeg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2150" target="_blank">6726F870-479E-4830-B030-663977D006B1.jpeg</a> (Size: 1.63 MB / Downloads: 829)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Led Clearance Marker Modifications]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11280</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 06 Jun 2018 02:38:21 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11280</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[we pull a 16 foot box van, or a race trailer, or a boat, or a range rover, or a h2, or a trailer full of sand toys, or a horse trailer, or a bobcat equipment trailer and need to make sure every trailer has working tail lights. OR NOT *****Note sound is too high on this video and no editorial was given (Lower the sound or turn off sound on your device )<br />
<a href="https://youtu.be/flaCPHnWQfo" target="_blank">https://youtu.be/flaCPHnWQfo</a><br />
<hr />
<ol type="1">
<li>Used new led marker sets that required shaving to make them fit and shine at right angles</li>
<li>hooked low intensity wire to old marker +12</li>
<li>ran stop and both turns up the cap and hooked to high intensity wire with diodes at each connection</li>
<li>installed a flasher unit in cockpit found spare marked pair to rear cap used two to set up emergency flasher config</li>
<li>installed a motorcycle brake light pre flash on the overhead stop ligt path to all high intensity markers</li>
<li>installed front marker sets to mimic rear markers all but the blinkers. <br />
</li></ol>
<a href="https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/strobe-controllers/brake-light-strobe-module/195/845/" target="_blank">https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo...e/195/845/</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/strobe-controllers/sho-me-heavy-duty-strobe-style-led-flasher/1761/4258/" target="_blank">https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo...1761/4258/</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[we pull a 16 foot box van, or a race trailer, or a boat, or a range rover, or a h2, or a trailer full of sand toys, or a horse trailer, or a bobcat equipment trailer and need to make sure every trailer has working tail lights. OR NOT *****Note sound is too high on this video and no editorial was given (Lower the sound or turn off sound on your device )<br />
<a href="https://youtu.be/flaCPHnWQfo" target="_blank">https://youtu.be/flaCPHnWQfo</a><br />
<hr />
<ol type="1">
<li>Used new led marker sets that required shaving to make them fit and shine at right angles</li>
<li>hooked low intensity wire to old marker +12</li>
<li>ran stop and both turns up the cap and hooked to high intensity wire with diodes at each connection</li>
<li>installed a flasher unit in cockpit found spare marked pair to rear cap used two to set up emergency flasher config</li>
<li>installed a motorcycle brake light pre flash on the overhead stop ligt path to all high intensity markers</li>
<li>installed front marker sets to mimic rear markers all but the blinkers. <br />
</li></ol>
<a href="https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/strobe-controllers/brake-light-strobe-module/195/845/" target="_blank">https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo...e/195/845/</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/strobe-controllers/sho-me-heavy-duty-strobe-style-led-flasher/1761/4258/" target="_blank">https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo...1761/4258/</a>]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Uh oh!  What’s this?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11268</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 06 May 2018 02:00:22 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11268</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[So, finally getting around on doing some PM  on my relatively new-to-me LXi and I was squirting some of that expensive grease into the expensive PTO when I noticed a clump of mud and grease hanging down on a wire behind the PTO. Once cleaned off with brake cleaner, it looks like a connector for the end of a temp or other sensor. Can’t find anything close that it would attach to. Any ideas?  <br />
<br />
Or is this one of those strange extra cables Bluebird loved to leave laying around?  When I was cleaning the heater fans under the water closet sink I found several coiled up wires. I thought, nah, but when I put a meter on them, sure enough, they were live 12v wires. Not even capped off.  Kind of like programmer Easter eggs in code!?<br />
<br />
It was obviously hanging there for a very long time because it was heavily encrusted with grease and road mud. So my guess is it can’t be too important!  <br />
<br />
Thanks for any ideas.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[So, finally getting around on doing some PM  on my relatively new-to-me LXi and I was squirting some of that expensive grease into the expensive PTO when I noticed a clump of mud and grease hanging down on a wire behind the PTO. Once cleaned off with brake cleaner, it looks like a connector for the end of a temp or other sensor. Can’t find anything close that it would attach to. Any ideas?  <br />
<br />
Or is this one of those strange extra cables Bluebird loved to leave laying around?  When I was cleaning the heater fans under the water closet sink I found several coiled up wires. I thought, nah, but when I put a meter on them, sure enough, they were live 12v wires. Not even capped off.  Kind of like programmer Easter eggs in code!?<br />
<br />
It was obviously hanging there for a very long time because it was heavily encrusted with grease and road mud. So my guess is it can’t be too important!  <br />
<br />
Thanks for any ideas.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Automatic Transfer Switch]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11260</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 Apr 2018 03:51:25 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11260</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[So our Christmas trip started off with a bust on the first night out. After catching a few hours shuteye at Chez Wally World, I got up and started the gen set to make some coffee. Power never switched on. Said pooey, or something to that effect, and took off sans coffee. After getting shore power at the park we were headed to all was well. The next day we popped open the cover on the ATS. There was good power coming in from the gen set. <br />
<br />
Bluebird had thoughtfully installed the ATS right below the water distribution manifold (pic 1) because that would never leak, right?  Well pic 2 shows the results of when leaks or condensation do develop on the manifold structure.  The prior owner of my Bird had replaced the ATS about 6 months before we got it. I think I know why now. Since I didn’t enjoy not having coffee on my first day out, and since we do like dry camping, I do want the ATS to reliably pass gen set power into the coach when I need it. So after installing yet another new ATS, I chose to make a minor modification that Bluebird forgot, so any future water drips will hit the floor of the compartment rather than drip into the ATS.  Look closely at pic 3 to see my addition. Several months later, l can tell you it works because a found a small puddle on the floor last week rather than having it disappear into the ATS. Now where it’s coming from remains a mystery yet to be solved. <br />
<br />
I have always wondered why Bluebird seemed to place the power plug ins by the water plug ins!  My 83 PT had them in the same small compartment!  <br />
<br />
Anyway, maybe this mod will help some other owner avoid having to replace the ATS for no good reason. In the meantime, my electronic techs in my service department rebuilt the failed unit, so I now have a spare that I hope never to use. Surprisingly, the best deal I found at that time was on the Camping World website. Of course I had to get the Camping World store to match their own website!  I hated to buy there since that Lemonis guy is such a real peach but the low price won out. <br />
<br />
It wasn’t that bad a job. I spent more time making and installing proper labels on each wire than I did actually reconnecting everything. But it looks so nice inside the box now!!<br />
<br />
FWIW.<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpeg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2100" target="_blank">2817EDFD-398F-4751-9949-62B36FF1AFA9.jpeg</a> (Size: 1.77 MB / Downloads: 1544)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpeg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2101" target="_blank">1B633072-8C31-41BD-BBA9-2FDA6C8AE2AE.jpeg</a> (Size: 1.37 MB / Downloads: 1406)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpeg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2102" target="_blank">C60682F9-DFDC-458F-9FB7-209CD2E0564E.jpeg</a> (Size: 1.75 MB / Downloads: 1355)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[So our Christmas trip started off with a bust on the first night out. After catching a few hours shuteye at Chez Wally World, I got up and started the gen set to make some coffee. Power never switched on. Said pooey, or something to that effect, and took off sans coffee. After getting shore power at the park we were headed to all was well. The next day we popped open the cover on the ATS. There was good power coming in from the gen set. <br />
<br />
Bluebird had thoughtfully installed the ATS right below the water distribution manifold (pic 1) because that would never leak, right?  Well pic 2 shows the results of when leaks or condensation do develop on the manifold structure.  The prior owner of my Bird had replaced the ATS about 6 months before we got it. I think I know why now. Since I didn’t enjoy not having coffee on my first day out, and since we do like dry camping, I do want the ATS to reliably pass gen set power into the coach when I need it. So after installing yet another new ATS, I chose to make a minor modification that Bluebird forgot, so any future water drips will hit the floor of the compartment rather than drip into the ATS.  Look closely at pic 3 to see my addition. Several months later, l can tell you it works because a found a small puddle on the floor last week rather than having it disappear into the ATS. Now where it’s coming from remains a mystery yet to be solved. <br />
<br />
I have always wondered why Bluebird seemed to place the power plug ins by the water plug ins!  My 83 PT had them in the same small compartment!  <br />
<br />
Anyway, maybe this mod will help some other owner avoid having to replace the ATS for no good reason. In the meantime, my electronic techs in my service department rebuilt the failed unit, so I now have a spare that I hope never to use. Surprisingly, the best deal I found at that time was on the Camping World website. Of course I had to get the Camping World store to match their own website!  I hated to buy there since that Lemonis guy is such a real peach but the low price won out. <br />
<br />
It wasn’t that bad a job. I spent more time making and installing proper labels on each wire than I did actually reconnecting everything. But it looks so nice inside the box now!!<br />
<br />
FWIW.<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpeg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2100" target="_blank">2817EDFD-398F-4751-9949-62B36FF1AFA9.jpeg</a> (Size: 1.77 MB / Downloads: 1544)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpeg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2101" target="_blank">1B633072-8C31-41BD-BBA9-2FDA6C8AE2AE.jpeg</a> (Size: 1.37 MB / Downloads: 1406)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpeg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2102" target="_blank">C60682F9-DFDC-458F-9FB7-209CD2E0564E.jpeg</a> (Size: 1.75 MB / Downloads: 1355)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[strange smell from Bedroom]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10950</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 02 May 2017 22:42:51 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10950</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[well it's back ,<br />
<br />
On the climb out of Indo to Las Vegas a strange smell returned that I thought was the muffler , but with it replaced the smell remains.<br />
<br />
 I would like to find it now prior to doing some real climbing in a few days on the way to Denver . On a walk around the coach and in inspection of engine compartment there is no smoke or smell . what ever it is , only starts after all long climb. So I read maybe the insulation in the bay but would nt that also smell out side ?  Any and all ideas will be followed up on .]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[well it's back ,<br />
<br />
On the climb out of Indo to Las Vegas a strange smell returned that I thought was the muffler , but with it replaced the smell remains.<br />
<br />
 I would like to find it now prior to doing some real climbing in a few days on the way to Denver . On a walk around the coach and in inspection of engine compartment there is no smoke or smell . what ever it is , only starts after all long climb. So I read maybe the insulation in the bay but would nt that also smell out side ?  Any and all ideas will be followed up on .]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[HWH Issue]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10948</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 28 Apr 2017 17:06:34 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10948</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello WaGu , <br />
<br />
 Have working on a issue the past few days with the HWH . We have no power to the Jack Panel in the coach . Here is what we know so far P1d4 fuse in the coach driver side panel blows when the 15amp fuse is inserted in the HWH bat fuse spot . So with the 3 blue fuses removed in the HWH box the 15amp fuse to the coach will not blow , but as soon as the bat 15amp fuse is inserted , the 15amp coach fuses blows.<br />
<br />
So now that we know we have a HWH box issue , the question is , can we purchase 1 board , and which one is it , or do we need to send out the entire box to HWH for repair ?<br />
<br />
Than you in advance for your expert advise <img src="images/smilies/smile.gif" style="vertical-align: middle;" border="0" alt="Smile" title="Smile" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hello WaGu , <br />
<br />
 Have working on a issue the past few days with the HWH . We have no power to the Jack Panel in the coach . Here is what we know so far P1d4 fuse in the coach driver side panel blows when the 15amp fuse is inserted in the HWH bat fuse spot . So with the 3 blue fuses removed in the HWH box the 15amp fuse to the coach will not blow , but as soon as the bat 15amp fuse is inserted , the 15amp coach fuses blows.<br />
<br />
So now that we know we have a HWH box issue , the question is , can we purchase 1 board , and which one is it , or do we need to send out the entire box to HWH for repair ?<br />
<br />
Than you in advance for your expert advise <img src="images/smilies/smile.gif" style="vertical-align: middle;" border="0" alt="Smile" title="Smile" />]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Inverter Topologies]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10927</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Jan 2017 14:56:10 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10927</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Folks,<br />
<br />
The evolution of DC-AC inverter technology over the years has left many of us dazed and confused. The attached article from Trace Engineering (circa 2000) describes each topology along with their advantages and disadvantages. Amazing that after 23 years the venerable Trace SW series still competes well with the latest offerings from Magnum, Outback, Victron and the others in the mobile market. In fact, the only inverter that really competes with the SW in terms of surge capability, total harmonic distortion, idle power consumption, voltage regulation, and efficiency is the Hybrid style inverter, such as Magnum's MSH4024M. The only real relative disadvantage of the Trace SW technology is cost to produce. Enjoy!<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/pdf.gif" border="0" alt=".pdf" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2021" target="_blank">2000 Inverter technology.pdf</a> (Size: 321.91 KB / Downloads: 1462)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Folks,<br />
<br />
The evolution of DC-AC inverter technology over the years has left many of us dazed and confused. The attached article from Trace Engineering (circa 2000) describes each topology along with their advantages and disadvantages. Amazing that after 23 years the venerable Trace SW series still competes well with the latest offerings from Magnum, Outback, Victron and the others in the mobile market. In fact, the only inverter that really competes with the SW in terms of surge capability, total harmonic distortion, idle power consumption, voltage regulation, and efficiency is the Hybrid style inverter, such as Magnum's MSH4024M. The only real relative disadvantage of the Trace SW technology is cost to produce. Enjoy!<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/pdf.gif" border="0" alt=".pdf" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2021" target="_blank">2000 Inverter technology.pdf</a> (Size: 321.91 KB / Downloads: 1462)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Jake Brake Relays]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10923</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 25 Dec 2016 10:04:38 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10923</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Chassis wiring diagram 1729813 rev EE for S60 DDEC III shows only K22A and B relays controlling low, medium or high Jake brake range selection.  My bus also has K22C relay installed and wired into these circuits.   I am having intermittent Jake brake problems and am trying to understand the circuits, but since K22C relay was removed from the drawing its a difficult task.   An older drawing revision showing the original circuit design would be most helpful if one exists anywhere in a blue box.  Does your bus have the K22C relay or does anyone have the drawing showing all three K22 relays?  Any info in this area would be helpful.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Chassis wiring diagram 1729813 rev EE for S60 DDEC III shows only K22A and B relays controlling low, medium or high Jake brake range selection.  My bus also has K22C relay installed and wired into these circuits.   I am having intermittent Jake brake problems and am trying to understand the circuits, but since K22C relay was removed from the drawing its a difficult task.   An older drawing revision showing the original circuit design would be most helpful if one exists anywhere in a blue box.  Does your bus have the K22C relay or does anyone have the drawing showing all three K22 relays?  Any info in this area would be helpful.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Rear Electrical Box Internal Wiring]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10921</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 20 Dec 2016 09:09:58 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10921</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I recently repaired my hydraulic cooler fans, which suffered from a loss of control power to the AUX FAN relay in the rear electrical box.  This took disassembling the contents of the box completely to allow me to trace wires and trouble shoot with my VOM.   Chassis wiring drawing 1729813 shows external wiring to the box with no reference to the box internal wiring drawing.   My blue box does not contain this needed drawing.  I am guessing the drawing I need would only be applicable to 1995 - 1996 WB's with the S60 DDEC III.   I don't know, but I think the 1997 WB and later Lxi  with the DDEC IV wiring may be different.  Does anyone have this drawing or can provide some insight to this problem?  There is a lot going on in this little gray box and an internal wiring drawing would make trouble shooting a lot easier.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I recently repaired my hydraulic cooler fans, which suffered from a loss of control power to the AUX FAN relay in the rear electrical box.  This took disassembling the contents of the box completely to allow me to trace wires and trouble shoot with my VOM.   Chassis wiring drawing 1729813 shows external wiring to the box with no reference to the box internal wiring drawing.   My blue box does not contain this needed drawing.  I am guessing the drawing I need would only be applicable to 1995 - 1996 WB's with the S60 DDEC III.   I don't know, but I think the 1997 WB and later Lxi  with the DDEC IV wiring may be different.  Does anyone have this drawing or can provide some insight to this problem?  There is a lot going on in this little gray box and an internal wiring drawing would make trouble shooting a lot easier.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[disarming the security system completely]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10906</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 30 Oct 2016 17:22:33 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10906</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[After reading the Manual several times I realize the alarm sytem is very complicated.  The last thing I want is it to go off at an RV park,  and I dont know how to shut it off.  I will use the key to lock the door.  Question is I don't see a fuse or circuit marked Security system.  Does anyone know how to dis-arm it completely,  there is a red light and a toggle switch under the steering wheel,  the light is on and the switch is down?? 2004 M380..]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[After reading the Manual several times I realize the alarm sytem is very complicated.  The last thing I want is it to go off at an RV park,  and I dont know how to shut it off.  I will use the key to lock the door.  Question is I don't see a fuse or circuit marked Security system.  Does anyone know how to dis-arm it completely,  there is a red light and a toggle switch under the steering wheel,  the light is on and the switch is down?? 2004 M380..]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Bus won't start. Have to move this weekend.]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10904</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 25 Oct 2016 08:58:40 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10904</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[PT40 1985 won't start. Ppl keep telling me we have separate engine batteries then my Auxillary or house batteries. We can't find anything other than the generator batteries? We need to move this weekend. My hubby works long hours during the week and I am partially disabled. <br />
<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance! <br />
<br />
Brenda and Mark]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[PT40 1985 won't start. Ppl keep telling me we have separate engine batteries then my Auxillary or house batteries. We can't find anything other than the generator batteries? We need to move this weekend. My hubby works long hours during the week and I am partially disabled. <br />
<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance! <br />
<br />
Brenda and Mark]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Inverter Questions]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10903</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 24 Oct 2016 16:43:37 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10903</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I bought a new hose for the compressor and wanted to try it out,  so I tried to start the Bird and nothing,  except the key felt like it was preventing me from starting.  I then checked the Batteries and they were down to 51%,  so I started the generator and when the batteries reached 70% the Bird started.  Is this proper?  Also on the inverter when the coach is running I assume I need the inverter on, to charge the batteries,  they only seemed to charge with the generator running not the coach.  So the problem might be the battery switch,  I was told when the coach is parked and not running it should be in the up position,  and when running in the middle position,  is this true?<br />
<br />
If I let the coach sit for a month without shore power what should I turn on and turn off,  master switch,  inverter etc...?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I bought a new hose for the compressor and wanted to try it out,  so I tried to start the Bird and nothing,  except the key felt like it was preventing me from starting.  I then checked the Batteries and they were down to 51%,  so I started the generator and when the batteries reached 70% the Bird started.  Is this proper?  Also on the inverter when the coach is running I assume I need the inverter on, to charge the batteries,  they only seemed to charge with the generator running not the coach.  So the problem might be the battery switch,  I was told when the coach is parked and not running it should be in the up position,  and when running in the middle position,  is this true?<br />
<br />
If I let the coach sit for a month without shore power what should I turn on and turn off,  master switch,  inverter etc...?]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Fun with electric cooling fans]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10871</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 16 Sep 2016 02:02:30 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10871</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi,<br />
This could be in Electrical, Electronics or engine cooling.<br />
<br />
In the M450 the back wall of the coach is packed with electronics which suffer from excessive heat.: notably the dual alternator regulator. &#36;400 !<br />
The 450 Cat C13 engine isn't really prone to overheating. A long grade at 100% power shows only a slight gauge rise.<br />
Shutting down causes a significant temperature rise in the engine bay which heats the electronics and bedroom etc.<br />
<br />
Any method of reducing excessive heat is worthwhile.<br />
<br />
A couple of 450's had fans added. Obviously there is no downside.<br />
<br />
This installation has an adjustable thermostat controller and the temperature sensor is mounted directly above the engine more toward the turbo side.<br />
I hope to adjust this controller so that the fans run when the compartment becomes abnormally high.... long grades , heavy traffic, and after shutdown until the area cools.  The outside led light (indicating fan running) can be seen in the mirror, so trial and error temperature adjustment will be possible. <br />
I will also use a remote thermometer to learn the compartment temperatures. For a start,the thermostat controller is set at 160 degrees.  <br />
<br />
BTW...The colour sucks...I've been told already<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2004" target="_blank">IMG_20160915_192705.jpg</a> (Size: 3.78 MB / Downloads: 1173)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2005" target="_blank">IMG_20160915_192827.jpg</a> (Size: 3 MB / Downloads: 1137)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2006" target="_blank">IMG_20160915_192814.jpg</a> (Size: 2.96 MB / Downloads: 1106)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2007" target="_blank">IMG_20160915_192844.jpg</a> (Size: 3.68 MB / Downloads: 1081)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2008" target="_blank">IMG_20160915_194422.jpg</a> (Size: 3.43 MB / Downloads: 1052)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hi,<br />
This could be in Electrical, Electronics or engine cooling.<br />
<br />
In the M450 the back wall of the coach is packed with electronics which suffer from excessive heat.: notably the dual alternator regulator. &#36;400 !<br />
The 450 Cat C13 engine isn't really prone to overheating. A long grade at 100% power shows only a slight gauge rise.<br />
Shutting down causes a significant temperature rise in the engine bay which heats the electronics and bedroom etc.<br />
<br />
Any method of reducing excessive heat is worthwhile.<br />
<br />
A couple of 450's had fans added. Obviously there is no downside.<br />
<br />
This installation has an adjustable thermostat controller and the temperature sensor is mounted directly above the engine more toward the turbo side.<br />
I hope to adjust this controller so that the fans run when the compartment becomes abnormally high.... long grades , heavy traffic, and after shutdown until the area cools.  The outside led light (indicating fan running) can be seen in the mirror, so trial and error temperature adjustment will be possible. <br />
I will also use a remote thermometer to learn the compartment temperatures. For a start,the thermostat controller is set at 160 degrees.  <br />
<br />
BTW...The colour sucks...I've been told already<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2004" target="_blank">IMG_20160915_192705.jpg</a> (Size: 3.78 MB / Downloads: 1173)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2005" target="_blank">IMG_20160915_192827.jpg</a> (Size: 3 MB / Downloads: 1137)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2006" target="_blank">IMG_20160915_192814.jpg</a> (Size: 2.96 MB / Downloads: 1106)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2007" target="_blank">IMG_20160915_192844.jpg</a> (Size: 3.68 MB / Downloads: 1081)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=2008" target="_blank">IMG_20160915_194422.jpg</a> (Size: 3.43 MB / Downloads: 1052)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[2002 LXi - NO POWER TO DC AUX AIR COMPRESSOR]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10849</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 27 Aug 2016 17:52:50 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10849</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[All<br />
<br />
1.  My understanding is the DC source is simply from the house battery bank to a distribution panel, fused (both fuse number &amp; panel location unknown to me) with no "on" / "off" switch but controlled by the 2nd pressure switch next to 110 VAC aux air pressure switch. <br />
<br />
2.  When purchased DC compressor was missing but wires appeared to be there.  With bus DC system on, NO air pressure on bus air system and 110 VAC compressor OFF at breaker panel and NO pressure in small aux air tank cannot detect 12 VDC at wires or pressure switch.<br />
<br />
3.  Is my understanding correct and if so does anyone know the panel location and fuse number or can you expand on troubleshooting procedure.<br />
<br />
All replies appreciated.<br />
<br />
Dean]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[All<br />
<br />
1.  My understanding is the DC source is simply from the house battery bank to a distribution panel, fused (both fuse number &amp; panel location unknown to me) with no "on" / "off" switch but controlled by the 2nd pressure switch next to 110 VAC aux air pressure switch. <br />
<br />
2.  When purchased DC compressor was missing but wires appeared to be there.  With bus DC system on, NO air pressure on bus air system and 110 VAC compressor OFF at breaker panel and NO pressure in small aux air tank cannot detect 12 VDC at wires or pressure switch.<br />
<br />
3.  Is my understanding correct and if so does anyone know the panel location and fuse number or can you expand on troubleshooting procedure.<br />
<br />
All replies appreciated.<br />
<br />
Dean]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Infamous 4 way issue]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10842</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 21 Aug 2016 13:18:06 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10842</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Good Sunday morning,<br />
<br />
We are preparing to get the bird inspected and after our preinspection we are fairly happy.  The only two issues were the front 4 ways are inop and the high beam indicator is red instead of blue (oh Virginia).  Our concern is the 4 ways.  I have read every post about hazards and have read through the manual multiple times.  The PO, before the people i purchased it from, rebuilt the dash so the hazards now has a switch on the dash instead of the steering column.  The switch appears to be in working order and wired correctly.  The flasher by my right knee is sounding off and I can't find any blown fuses (I've also tried different bulbs just to be certain).  Am I missing something easy or is it likely the mysterious PMMI box?<br />
<br />
Best regards,<br />
<br />
<br />
UPDATE<br />
I decided to rewire the from hazards from the switch on the dash.  The good news is we have operational hazards lights, the bad news is that now the turn signals stay on constant versus flashing.  I'm not the best wiring guy so any and all input would be great.<br />
<br />
Thanks!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Good Sunday morning,<br />
<br />
We are preparing to get the bird inspected and after our preinspection we are fairly happy.  The only two issues were the front 4 ways are inop and the high beam indicator is red instead of blue (oh Virginia).  Our concern is the 4 ways.  I have read every post about hazards and have read through the manual multiple times.  The PO, before the people i purchased it from, rebuilt the dash so the hazards now has a switch on the dash instead of the steering column.  The switch appears to be in working order and wired correctly.  The flasher by my right knee is sounding off and I can't find any blown fuses (I've also tried different bulbs just to be certain).  Am I missing something easy or is it likely the mysterious PMMI box?<br />
<br />
Best regards,<br />
<br />
<br />
UPDATE<br />
I decided to rewire the from hazards from the switch on the dash.  The good news is we have operational hazards lights, the bad news is that now the turn signals stay on constant versus flashing.  I'm not the best wiring guy so any and all input would be great.<br />
<br />
Thanks!]]></content:encoded>
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