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		<title><![CDATA[Wanderlodge Gurus - The Member Funded Wanderlodge Forum - HVAC]]></title>
		<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Wanderlodge Gurus - The Member Funded Wanderlodge Forum - http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 01 May 2026 16:31:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<generator>MyBB</generator>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[CruisAir 3-knob controls]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=12234</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 04 Sep 2024 20:31:45 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=12234</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Good afternoon!  In our ‘83 PT40, the control knobs for our center AC get hot to the touch when that AC is turned on. We’ve stopped using it until we find the problem. New control knob panel from Dometic Marine is &#36;910, so we want to avoid that option if possible. Does anyone have an idea why the controls get hot, and what a good fix would be? We’re not even sure the controls are the problem. Thanks for any help offered!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Good afternoon!  In our ‘83 PT40, the control knobs for our center AC get hot to the touch when that AC is turned on. We’ve stopped using it until we find the problem. New control knob panel from Dometic Marine is &#36;910, so we want to avoid that option if possible. Does anyone have an idea why the controls get hot, and what a good fix would be? We’re not even sure the controls are the problem. Thanks for any help offered!]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Kool-o-matic access]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11403</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 26 Oct 2020 15:40:12 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11403</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Good Morning,<br />
<br />
    This new to me coach has the dropped ceiling which is covering the Kool-o-matic grill.  Put the camera up there and looked into the 1" clearance between the ceiling and drop ceiling and the the grill is visible.<br />
<br />
    The fan does not turn on, which I will investigate, but I am wondering if anyone else has this set up? Firstly, how does one shut the damper, if there is one and secondly might there be a switch somewhere that controls the damper.  At this time I can not feel a draft so unless BB mounted a Kool-o-matic just for looks something must be acting as a closed damper.<br />
<br />
    Additionally I can no find no mention of the Kool-o-matic in any fuse charts or wiring diagrams. Maybe it is just up there for looks...<br />
<br />
Thanks]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Good Morning,<br />
<br />
    This new to me coach has the dropped ceiling which is covering the Kool-o-matic grill.  Put the camera up there and looked into the 1" clearance between the ceiling and drop ceiling and the the grill is visible.<br />
<br />
    The fan does not turn on, which I will investigate, but I am wondering if anyone else has this set up? Firstly, how does one shut the damper, if there is one and secondly might there be a switch somewhere that controls the damper.  At this time I can not feel a draft so unless BB mounted a Kool-o-matic just for looks something must be acting as a closed damper.<br />
<br />
    Additionally I can no find no mention of the Kool-o-matic in any fuse charts or wiring diagrams. Maybe it is just up there for looks...<br />
<br />
Thanks]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[FC Roof AC drain tubes for new units]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11348</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 20 Mar 2019 21:20:35 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11348</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello, I am getting ready to replace the original ac units on our 78 FC with Coleman 15000 BTU Mach 8 low profile units.<br />
My question would be to anyone with previous experience routing drain lines weighing in as to solutions.<br />
I did read a thread wherein Randy Dupree indicated running lines to the vent stack, which I thought was a great idea, but I am thinking of using units with the condensation pumps and from what I can tell they come out inside the unit opening. <br />
Should I just buy the standard units and affix a drain apparatus to the vents, I am pretty handy with many things and know i can figure it out on demand, just looking to expedite a plan or draw from this deep well of knowledge here before pulling the trigger, poised and ready. <img src="images/smilies/smile.gif" style="vertical-align: middle;" border="0" alt="Smile" title="Smile" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hello, I am getting ready to replace the original ac units on our 78 FC with Coleman 15000 BTU Mach 8 low profile units.<br />
My question would be to anyone with previous experience routing drain lines weighing in as to solutions.<br />
I did read a thread wherein Randy Dupree indicated running lines to the vent stack, which I thought was a great idea, but I am thinking of using units with the condensation pumps and from what I can tell they come out inside the unit opening. <br />
Should I just buy the standard units and affix a drain apparatus to the vents, I am pretty handy with many things and know i can figure it out on demand, just looking to expedite a plan or draw from this deep well of knowledge here before pulling the trigger, poised and ready. <img src="images/smilies/smile.gif" style="vertical-align: middle;" border="0" alt="Smile" title="Smile" />]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Dometic 4 button repair]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11339</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 08 Feb 2019 01:23:57 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11339</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[In case you are having problems with your 4 button thermostat, here's a very simple repair that will restore it to much better operation.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://beamalarm.com/Documents/duo_therm_control_center_repair.html" target="_blank">http://beamalarm.com/Documents/duo_therm...epair.html</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[In case you are having problems with your 4 button thermostat, here's a very simple repair that will restore it to much better operation.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://beamalarm.com/Documents/duo_therm_control_center_repair.html" target="_blank">http://beamalarm.com/Documents/duo_therm...epair.html</a>]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Air Conditioner Dometic]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11287</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 07 Jul 2018 05:20:21 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11287</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[my rig has three 13,500 btu units Duotherm ac units and a 4 button dometic controller.  I run the front and rear ac off of the inverters when traveling and the ambient is not too hot, otherwise I run all three powered by the genset. I installed a hard start kit in the rear ac unit a couple of months ago because it kicked off the breaker and I can see it drew twice the starting amps to power on. I am not a fan of band aid fixes and when the hard start kit proved another breaker trip, I disabled the rear ac to avoid a discussion on my intent to replace.<br />
 I understand that I needed to upgrade the controller to a five button and replace all the cards in the ac units. and now I found that the 5 button is being replaced by a 10 button and new cards soon so I decided to drop in a single thermostat in the bedroom and upgrade the other two later with a central 10 button.<br />
<br />
I called Dometic  800-366-8342 and 800 216-5155 and found that there are seven things to my ac system . One thermostat, three control cards and three ac compressor-boxes.  <br />
I asked the difference  in the amp draw of a 15,000 btu compared to a 13,500 btu and tec said  said it was about the same. I was looking for a push so I took her word and shopped a 15K.  they have a compressor unit with a preinstalled card that fit the bill. and an inexpensive wall single unit controller.  <br />
Install went easy, do not forget to pull the bluebird ducting cone off of the bottom of the duo therm and attach it to the new unit. it looks duo therm factory but the cone keeps the intake and exhaust paths separate.  dometic provides no wire diagram in the box and their website had different colors and a note that wire color may vary. the controller has labels.here is my hookup<br />
 red/white ............ to controller 12+ (used thermostat wire 25 foot)<br />
   red ...............  to empty fuse in rear closet, 12V installed 1/2 amp then a 5 amp after no smoke<br />
     black........... to bus 12 ground and to 12v- pin on controller (new self-tap ground near bluebirds rear ground screws)<br />
     orange............ to CCOM  center of the thermostat <br />
    blue  for furnace there are two I have not addressed starting the aqua-hot yet see post below with call for help<br />
<br />
I ran the other two ac units while installing the thermostat and notice that the full bus exhaust is continuous  with a bit of flow in the bedroom from those other two units. <br />
My review is the new unit is quieter, doesn't seem to be any cooler but I did not test the other 13.5k. I like having a control in the bedroom, only issue may be simultaneous starts which I think the single controller was programed to avoid? <br />
<br />
641916CXX1c0  cw part #104103   and     3316250.000 cw part #88513<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.campingworld.com/dometic-15000-btu-penguin-ac-for-single-zone-lcd-thermostat-polar-white" target="_blank">https://www.campingworld.com/dometic-150...olar-white</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.campingworld.com/dometic-standard-ct-thermostat-black" target="_blank">https://www.campingworld.com/dometic-sta...stat-black</a><br />
<hr />
I want to hook up the aquahot pump and rear fans to the rear new independent controller I installed. the dometic has two blue wires for furnace but no idea of the wiring. I see a blue Bosch relay near the Bluebird ac hookup and assume this is to the aquahot but I can not find a wire diagram in my files for the control. Please advise<br />
thanks in advance]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[my rig has three 13,500 btu units Duotherm ac units and a 4 button dometic controller.  I run the front and rear ac off of the inverters when traveling and the ambient is not too hot, otherwise I run all three powered by the genset. I installed a hard start kit in the rear ac unit a couple of months ago because it kicked off the breaker and I can see it drew twice the starting amps to power on. I am not a fan of band aid fixes and when the hard start kit proved another breaker trip, I disabled the rear ac to avoid a discussion on my intent to replace.<br />
 I understand that I needed to upgrade the controller to a five button and replace all the cards in the ac units. and now I found that the 5 button is being replaced by a 10 button and new cards soon so I decided to drop in a single thermostat in the bedroom and upgrade the other two later with a central 10 button.<br />
<br />
I called Dometic  800-366-8342 and 800 216-5155 and found that there are seven things to my ac system . One thermostat, three control cards and three ac compressor-boxes.  <br />
I asked the difference  in the amp draw of a 15,000 btu compared to a 13,500 btu and tec said  said it was about the same. I was looking for a push so I took her word and shopped a 15K.  they have a compressor unit with a preinstalled card that fit the bill. and an inexpensive wall single unit controller.  <br />
Install went easy, do not forget to pull the bluebird ducting cone off of the bottom of the duo therm and attach it to the new unit. it looks duo therm factory but the cone keeps the intake and exhaust paths separate.  dometic provides no wire diagram in the box and their website had different colors and a note that wire color may vary. the controller has labels.here is my hookup<br />
 red/white ............ to controller 12+ (used thermostat wire 25 foot)<br />
   red ...............  to empty fuse in rear closet, 12V installed 1/2 amp then a 5 amp after no smoke<br />
     black........... to bus 12 ground and to 12v- pin on controller (new self-tap ground near bluebirds rear ground screws)<br />
     orange............ to CCOM  center of the thermostat <br />
    blue  for furnace there are two I have not addressed starting the aqua-hot yet see post below with call for help<br />
<br />
I ran the other two ac units while installing the thermostat and notice that the full bus exhaust is continuous  with a bit of flow in the bedroom from those other two units. <br />
My review is the new unit is quieter, doesn't seem to be any cooler but I did not test the other 13.5k. I like having a control in the bedroom, only issue may be simultaneous starts which I think the single controller was programed to avoid? <br />
<br />
641916CXX1c0  cw part #104103   and     3316250.000 cw part #88513<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.campingworld.com/dometic-15000-btu-penguin-ac-for-single-zone-lcd-thermostat-polar-white" target="_blank">https://www.campingworld.com/dometic-150...olar-white</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.campingworld.com/dometic-standard-ct-thermostat-black" target="_blank">https://www.campingworld.com/dometic-sta...stat-black</a><br />
<hr />
I want to hook up the aquahot pump and rear fans to the rear new independent controller I installed. the dometic has two blue wires for furnace but no idea of the wiring. I see a blue Bosch relay near the Bluebird ac hookup and assume this is to the aquahot but I can not find a wire diagram in my files for the control. Please advise<br />
thanks in advance]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Engine preheat hose to the boiler]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11278</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 28 May 2018 15:22:47 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11278</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[First I would like to say thank you from the bottom of my heart to<br />
all of you on this sight. I purchased my 1999 lxi in the fall of 2012,it needed<br />
some work like they all do at that age. My family has traveled now to all four <br />
corners of this great nation in my bird. We would not be able to do that without all of the knowledge I have gained from this web sight. You guys<br />
are an indispensable source of inspiration and knowledge.<br />
I will try and find an appropriate place on the sight to put pics and descriptions of all the work I have done so far.<br />
 But my question of the day, has any one had to replace the engine preheat <br />
hoses from the series 60 engine to the boiler yet ? Mine have ruptured 3 times now in the last two years and left us on the side of the road. I keep splicing but the hose is just shot.<br />
There is two shut off valves on the block but they do not close this circuit off.<br />
The hoses run inside the frame rail and are totally inaccessible from what i can see. I ripped the bedroom floor up last summer on vacation and had two<br />
more ball valves installed to close off that circuit.I will send pics latter.<br />
They leave the engine 1" and are coming into the boiler at 5/8 and 5/8 if I remember properly , i will check today.<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
<br />
Pat Roys<br />
Hopkins Mi]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[First I would like to say thank you from the bottom of my heart to<br />
all of you on this sight. I purchased my 1999 lxi in the fall of 2012,it needed<br />
some work like they all do at that age. My family has traveled now to all four <br />
corners of this great nation in my bird. We would not be able to do that without all of the knowledge I have gained from this web sight. You guys<br />
are an indispensable source of inspiration and knowledge.<br />
I will try and find an appropriate place on the sight to put pics and descriptions of all the work I have done so far.<br />
 But my question of the day, has any one had to replace the engine preheat <br />
hoses from the series 60 engine to the boiler yet ? Mine have ruptured 3 times now in the last two years and left us on the side of the road. I keep splicing but the hose is just shot.<br />
There is two shut off valves on the block but they do not close this circuit off.<br />
The hoses run inside the frame rail and are totally inaccessible from what i can see. I ripped the bedroom floor up last summer on vacation and had two<br />
more ball valves installed to close off that circuit.I will send pics latter.<br />
They leave the engine 1" and are coming into the boiler at 5/8 and 5/8 if I remember properly , i will check today.<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
<br />
Pat Roys<br />
Hopkins Mi]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[2001 LXi chassis A/C]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11267</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 03 May 2018 19:58:58 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=11267</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hopefully some one can give me a suggestion.  I have a 2001 LXI and the chassis A/C is not working.  If I put power right to the clutch it works.  I know the HP switch is OK.  I am not sure where the LP switch is located.  Not sure what other safety could be holding the system off.  I did not want to start tearing the dash unit until I got a little advice.  I believe I checked the fuse - I believe it is in the compartment outside under the window of the drivers seat.<br />
Any help would be appreciated.<br />
<br />
thanks<br />
Urnie]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hopefully some one can give me a suggestion.  I have a 2001 LXI and the chassis A/C is not working.  If I put power right to the clutch it works.  I know the HP switch is OK.  I am not sure where the LP switch is located.  Not sure what other safety could be holding the system off.  I did not want to start tearing the dash unit until I got a little advice.  I believe I checked the fuse - I believe it is in the compartment outside under the window of the drivers seat.<br />
Any help would be appreciated.<br />
<br />
thanks<br />
Urnie]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[ELEC HEATERS]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10946</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 12 Apr 2017 22:27:00 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10946</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[so from what i have found the coach has two elec heaters in it. both on seperate thermostats. one is located in the rear under a closet with the thermostat in the bathroom. it is working as it should. the other one is located up front under the dash in the center. thermostat is located between the kitchen and living room. the thermostat triggers the contactor but there is no 110 power at the contactor. all breakers are on. does any one know were this power is coming from?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[so from what i have found the coach has two elec heaters in it. both on seperate thermostats. one is located in the rear under a closet with the thermostat in the bathroom. it is working as it should. the other one is located up front under the dash in the center. thermostat is located between the kitchen and living room. the thermostat triggers the contactor but there is no 110 power at the contactor. all breakers are on. does any one know were this power is coming from?]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[PRIMUS]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10944</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 10 Apr 2017 19:00:19 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10944</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[so my 93 has the primus system in it. i have not been able to find out much info on it so far. which leads me to believe that parts are going to be a pain to find also. as of now it does not work and most of the wires are disconnected at each control panel in the front and rear of the coach. i did download an operators manual for my system but what i really need is the installation manual so i can basically re install the system. if anyone has this that would be awesome.  last question, is there a system that i can replace the primus system with that will still work with the primus heating panels around the coach. basically just replace the two boilers and install new control panels?<br />
<hr />
i have read on a few other posts that the propane valve needs to be turned on. i have located the master switch for the lp but have not found a valve. when i turn on the master switch there is a faint lp smell which makes me a little nervous. the stove light when we first bought it but now it doesnt. tanks have 3/4 in them. the stove ignitor is not clicking any more so i guess i will have to look into that but maybe alot of my issues stem from the lp not being on causing the primus system to not work. so any ideas on were that lp valve is located would be awesome. its a 93 WB 40]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[so my 93 has the primus system in it. i have not been able to find out much info on it so far. which leads me to believe that parts are going to be a pain to find also. as of now it does not work and most of the wires are disconnected at each control panel in the front and rear of the coach. i did download an operators manual for my system but what i really need is the installation manual so i can basically re install the system. if anyone has this that would be awesome.  last question, is there a system that i can replace the primus system with that will still work with the primus heating panels around the coach. basically just replace the two boilers and install new control panels?<br />
<hr />
i have read on a few other posts that the propane valve needs to be turned on. i have located the master switch for the lp but have not found a valve. when i turn on the master switch there is a faint lp smell which makes me a little nervous. the stove light when we first bought it but now it doesnt. tanks have 3/4 in them. the stove ignitor is not clicking any more so i guess i will have to look into that but maybe alot of my issues stem from the lp not being on causing the primus system to not work. so any ideas on were that lp valve is located would be awesome. its a 93 WB 40]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Aqua-hot fuel usage]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10916</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 07 Dec 2016 20:39:12 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10916</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Since it is going to dip into the 20s on Thursday nite/Friday morning, I need to turn the Aqua-hot on to keep the water bays warm. (I know, I hear the northern owner's, currently known as anyone north of Austin or Waco, boo-hooing for us!)<br />
<br />
In any event, just out of curiosity does anyone have any Aqua-hot fuel usage figures (in gph) that they can share?  I can't seem to find any in the A-H literature or on Google. <br />
<br />
Thanks!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Since it is going to dip into the 20s on Thursday nite/Friday morning, I need to turn the Aqua-hot on to keep the water bays warm. (I know, I hear the northern owner's, currently known as anyone north of Austin or Waco, boo-hooing for us!)<br />
<br />
In any event, just out of curiosity does anyone have any Aqua-hot fuel usage figures (in gph) that they can share?  I can't seem to find any in the A-H literature or on Google. <br />
<br />
Thanks!]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[basement electric heat]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10890</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 02 Oct 2016 19:32:58 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10890</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Please help how do you turn on the basement electric heat units,  there is a thermostat: curb side bay but nothing happens??????]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Please help how do you turn on the basement electric heat units,  there is a thermostat: curb side bay but nothing happens??????]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[1st Time Bird owner have lots of questions..]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10889</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 02 Oct 2016 16:49:19 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10889</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello, we finally did it bought a 2004 m380, now the confusing started hopefully someone can help. The Hurricane heating worked fine then all of a sudden the flame out light came on. After reading outher things I believe, and with my fingers crossed, that it might be because the Diesel level is below 1/4 tank, does anyone know if that is true?<br />
<hr />
OK,  filled it With siesel,  and the Hurricane heating is working,  now could someone please explain the Hydro button the 2 air conditioner buttons,  (up front) and the 2 thermostats that ar in the Bird,  and how they all work together.  I read the manual 3 times and im still confused.  I bought in from southern Florida,  and I live up north they did not know to much about the heating system..Thanx]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hello, we finally did it bought a 2004 m380, now the confusing started hopefully someone can help. The Hurricane heating worked fine then all of a sudden the flame out light came on. After reading outher things I believe, and with my fingers crossed, that it might be because the Diesel level is below 1/4 tank, does anyone know if that is true?<br />
<hr />
OK,  filled it With siesel,  and the Hurricane heating is working,  now could someone please explain the Hydro button the 2 air conditioner buttons,  (up front) and the 2 thermostats that ar in the Bird,  and how they all work together.  I read the manual 3 times and im still confused.  I bought in from southern Florida,  and I live up north they did not know to much about the heating system..Thanx]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[1st Time Bird owner have lots of questions..]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10888</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 02 Oct 2016 16:48:38 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10888</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello, we finally did it bought a 2004 m380, now the confusing started hopefully someone can help. The Hurricane heating worked fine then all of a sudden the flame out light came on. After reading outher things I believe, and with my fingers crossed, that it might be because the Diesel level is below 1/4 tank, does anyone know if that is true?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hello, we finally did it bought a 2004 m380, now the confusing started hopefully someone can help. The Hurricane heating worked fine then all of a sudden the flame out light came on. After reading outher things I believe, and with my fingers crossed, that it might be because the Diesel level is below 1/4 tank, does anyone know if that is true?]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Heat? '86 PT_40]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10647</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 11 Jan 2016 17:30:59 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10647</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I bought the bus when it was still 100F out.  I know there are something like 9 heaters, but I can't seem to make any of them work.<br />
<br />
I've got 3x Cruisairs (2 of them even work)-- these are A/C only, correct?  These are controlled by 3 knob panels-- Off/Start/Run; Fan Speed; Temperature<br />
<br />
Next I've got two thermostats in the bathroom, overhead, and one on the dinette back wall, and one in the bedroom.  These should control the propane heaters, right?  The fan should at least come on if I tell it to, right (I'd like to make sure it blows before I feed it propane.)<br />
<br />
I've got an electric heater under the sofa (as well as engine water heat, and propane) that doesn't do anything when I turn the knob.<br />
There are also two switches (high/low, on/off) mounted next to the engine water heat.  <br />
The electric in the bedroom doesn't even have a knob anymore. <br />
<br />
I am set to Summer because of this under the kitchen sink--<!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=1931" target="_blank">IMG_20160109_163655.jpg</a> (Size: 1.24 MB / Downloads: 1413)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --> and not being certain what would happen from that pipe if I flipped it to winter..  (note for the curious, my ice maker is located tailward from the kitchen, in the pantry area.  This hose heads towards the sofa. I don't know of anything that would use water forward of the sink, other than the heater)<br />
<br />
Anyone want to give some guidance on where to start on ANY of these?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I bought the bus when it was still 100F out.  I know there are something like 9 heaters, but I can't seem to make any of them work.<br />
<br />
I've got 3x Cruisairs (2 of them even work)-- these are A/C only, correct?  These are controlled by 3 knob panels-- Off/Start/Run; Fan Speed; Temperature<br />
<br />
Next I've got two thermostats in the bathroom, overhead, and one on the dinette back wall, and one in the bedroom.  These should control the propane heaters, right?  The fan should at least come on if I tell it to, right (I'd like to make sure it blows before I feed it propane.)<br />
<br />
I've got an electric heater under the sofa (as well as engine water heat, and propane) that doesn't do anything when I turn the knob.<br />
There are also two switches (high/low, on/off) mounted next to the engine water heat.  <br />
The electric in the bedroom doesn't even have a knob anymore. <br />
<br />
I am set to Summer because of this under the kitchen sink--<!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=1931" target="_blank">IMG_20160109_163655.jpg</a> (Size: 1.24 MB / Downloads: 1413)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --> and not being certain what would happen from that pipe if I flipped it to winter..  (note for the curious, my ice maker is located tailward from the kitchen, in the pantry area.  This hose heads towards the sofa. I don't know of anything that would use water forward of the sink, other than the heater)<br />
<br />
Anyone want to give some guidance on where to start on ANY of these?]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[lxi  fantastic vent kitchen]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10624</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2015 00:10:41 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10624</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I cant find the fuse or relay for the kitchen fan? there should be power to it all the time to close the cover in the event of rain? thanks for anticipated reply. In SaN Diego Ca with a bunch of other rv's this weekend<br />
Greg]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I cant find the fuse or relay for the kitchen fan? there should be power to it all the time to close the cover in the event of rain? thanks for anticipated reply. In SaN Diego Ca with a bunch of other rv's this weekend<br />
Greg]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Aquahot burner rebuild video]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10621</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2015 16:29:43 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10621</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Here is a video on  rebuilding the wabasto end of an  aquahot  heater. <br />
<a href="http://youtu.be/eVsvDgRhRk4" target="_blank">http://youtu.be/eVsvDgRhRk4</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<!-- start: video_youtube_embed --><br />
<object type="application/x-shockwave-flash" class="video_embed" style="width: 450px; height: 366px;" data="http://www.youtube.com/v/eVsvDgRhRk4"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/eVsvDgRhRk4" /></object><br />
<!-- end: video_youtube_embed -->]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Here is a video on  rebuilding the wabasto end of an  aquahot  heater. <br />
<a href="http://youtu.be/eVsvDgRhRk4" target="_blank">http://youtu.be/eVsvDgRhRk4</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<!-- start: video_youtube_embed --><br />
<object type="application/x-shockwave-flash" class="video_embed" style="width: 450px; height: 366px;" data="http://www.youtube.com/v/eVsvDgRhRk4"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/eVsvDgRhRk4" /></object><br />
<!-- end: video_youtube_embed -->]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Aqua Hot exhaust]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10500</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 14 Jul 2015 04:50:30 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10500</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[While pulling out of a rather steep parking lot exit I heard a scraping sound as the coach (2003 LX 40) crossed the hump. Checking I found the Aqua Hot exhaust pipe hangs down 3 or 4 inches midway between the steer and drive axles. absolutely worst place for clearance. Any suggestions on relocating, raising or other ideas to increase clearance?<br />
<br />
My GMC has the capability of inflating the air bags to gain clearance in town. Is this a possibility with the LX?<br />
<br />
Hal Kading<br />
2003 LX40<br />
Las Cruces NM]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[While pulling out of a rather steep parking lot exit I heard a scraping sound as the coach (2003 LX 40) crossed the hump. Checking I found the Aqua Hot exhaust pipe hangs down 3 or 4 inches midway between the steer and drive axles. absolutely worst place for clearance. Any suggestions on relocating, raising or other ideas to increase clearance?<br />
<br />
My GMC has the capability of inflating the air bags to gain clearance in town. Is this a possibility with the LX?<br />
<br />
Hal Kading<br />
2003 LX40<br />
Las Cruces NM]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Ammonia Refer Protection ARPrv control unit]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10413</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 30 Jan 2015 05:56:24 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10413</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[My Bus has a household compressor  driven refer but my day cruiser  '77 GMC Motorhome has one of Albert Einsteins   flame ammonia systems.  One of the links David sent me to in a reply had a product that I decided to buy for protection of the Ammonia system They cost about &#36;100.00 and one is on the way.     <a href="http://www.arprv.com/" target="_blank">http://www.arprv.com/</a><br />
here is a cut of the product description. <br />
<br />
<br />
.....................<br />
ARPrv saves you money and keeps your RV refrigerator safer. Please read on to see how our RV fridge control solves off level failure, helps with RV fire issues, and how to install by cooling unit.<br />
<br />
The ARP Control introduces an improved method for protecting your Norcold or Dometic fridge while maintaining the original warranty. The ARP Control proactively protects your fridge rather than responding after a failure has occurred. How does the ARP work and how is it different than the Norcold or Dometic controls?<br />
<br />
<br />
The ARP monitors the heart of your fridge, the boiler. When the ARP detects conditions that can lead to a destructive or unsafe situation, it turns off your fridge and then restarts it automatically. Thus, the ARP Control saves you money by keeping your fridge running like new!<br />
<br />
RV Fires<br />
RV Fridge Fire<br />
<br />
<br />
Over the years we've all heard, read or actually seen an RV fire. Unfortunately, many of them are really scary and can cause total destruction to your RV. Fires usually start in RV's for several different reasons - uncontrolled gasoline, damaged/loose electrical wiring or a propane situation.<br />
<br />
Many RV fires are started when an RV refrigerator bursts a plumbing pipe, when extremely hot, with flammable liquids rushing out. Sadly, that type of fire could have been prevented and the owner enjoying a great day at a campground!<br />
<br />
<br />
RV Refrigerator<br />
<br />
We will explain how these incredible refrigerators work and how to keep them safe. More importantly, we will provide a solution to you - the end user, so you may enjoy traveling and using your RV - worry-free!<br />
<br />
The basic operation of the RV refrigerator is to provide continuous, uninterrupted circulation of its chemicals in either a liquid or gaseous state. When one of these refrigerators is tilted or off level, the plumbing design simply won't let the liquid or gases circulate properly.<br />
<br />
It would be the same as pinching an artery or a vein in the human body. It must circulate freely to keep you alive. The actual plumbing design is very efficient and works wonderfully. The problem arises when it is tilted too much or the cooling air is restricted. There are no pumps or moving parts to assist the moving of these chemicals or gases.<br />
<br />
The typical control module within your factory installed RV refrigerator doesn't monitor the flow of these liquids or gases - or the possibility that it is not all flowing or returning to the heating area. The heating element tries to keep the continuous cycle going - but has insufficient liquids to heat. This just creates higher heat within the system. <br />
<br />
Worse, the factory control unit isn't designed to monitor the actual boiler temperature either. As a result,  it just keeps trying to keep the cycle going - even without enough liquids in the heating area. This excessive heat damages the plumbing piping and eventually causes a burst of these chemicals to the outside air - an immediate and intense fire may result!<br />
Our ARP RV Fridge Controller is the final solution for the RV Refrigerator<br />
<br />
Our Patented ARPrv Controller monitors the temperatures right at the source of the problem - the heating element area. We have years of research invested in knowing what acceptable levels of temperatures within the cooling unit are. Our temperature sensor/probe is installed directly on the boiler tube itself, so we get exact temperature data to our RV fridge control.<br />
<br />
When the temperature starts to exceed predetermined safe levels, we simply turn off the refrigerator for a 10 minute time period. This allows the entire system to cool back down to a safe level. The refrigerator is then allowed to restart. We continue to monitor the temperatures and cycle the system off again if necessary to prevent failures.<br />
ARPrv Installation by Cooling Unit<br />
<br />
Please see our installation by cooling unit pages for examples of the ARP RV fridge control temperature sensor installations by make and model of refrigerator.  The ARPrv Control is universal, thus it can be used on almost all Norcold or Dometic fridges. If your fridge is not listed in these pages, please use the Contact Us below if you have any questions.  <br />
ARP Schedule<br />
Schedule for ARPrv <br />
<br />
Please click on the Scheduling Fridge image to the left to download maps and view seminar information for ARP Control.<br />
<br />
In brief, we will be in Quartzsite, AZ selling and installing controls December and January. Also in January we will be at the Indio, CA FMCA  Rally.  Starting February and into March we will be at Good Sam Rally Phoenix, AZ; Escapees Rally Tucson, AZ; Pomona FMCA Rally, CA.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[My Bus has a household compressor  driven refer but my day cruiser  '77 GMC Motorhome has one of Albert Einsteins   flame ammonia systems.  One of the links David sent me to in a reply had a product that I decided to buy for protection of the Ammonia system They cost about &#36;100.00 and one is on the way.     <a href="http://www.arprv.com/" target="_blank">http://www.arprv.com/</a><br />
here is a cut of the product description. <br />
<br />
<br />
.....................<br />
ARPrv saves you money and keeps your RV refrigerator safer. Please read on to see how our RV fridge control solves off level failure, helps with RV fire issues, and how to install by cooling unit.<br />
<br />
The ARP Control introduces an improved method for protecting your Norcold or Dometic fridge while maintaining the original warranty. The ARP Control proactively protects your fridge rather than responding after a failure has occurred. How does the ARP work and how is it different than the Norcold or Dometic controls?<br />
<br />
<br />
The ARP monitors the heart of your fridge, the boiler. When the ARP detects conditions that can lead to a destructive or unsafe situation, it turns off your fridge and then restarts it automatically. Thus, the ARP Control saves you money by keeping your fridge running like new!<br />
<br />
RV Fires<br />
RV Fridge Fire<br />
<br />
<br />
Over the years we've all heard, read or actually seen an RV fire. Unfortunately, many of them are really scary and can cause total destruction to your RV. Fires usually start in RV's for several different reasons - uncontrolled gasoline, damaged/loose electrical wiring or a propane situation.<br />
<br />
Many RV fires are started when an RV refrigerator bursts a plumbing pipe, when extremely hot, with flammable liquids rushing out. Sadly, that type of fire could have been prevented and the owner enjoying a great day at a campground!<br />
<br />
<br />
RV Refrigerator<br />
<br />
We will explain how these incredible refrigerators work and how to keep them safe. More importantly, we will provide a solution to you - the end user, so you may enjoy traveling and using your RV - worry-free!<br />
<br />
The basic operation of the RV refrigerator is to provide continuous, uninterrupted circulation of its chemicals in either a liquid or gaseous state. When one of these refrigerators is tilted or off level, the plumbing design simply won't let the liquid or gases circulate properly.<br />
<br />
It would be the same as pinching an artery or a vein in the human body. It must circulate freely to keep you alive. The actual plumbing design is very efficient and works wonderfully. The problem arises when it is tilted too much or the cooling air is restricted. There are no pumps or moving parts to assist the moving of these chemicals or gases.<br />
<br />
The typical control module within your factory installed RV refrigerator doesn't monitor the flow of these liquids or gases - or the possibility that it is not all flowing or returning to the heating area. The heating element tries to keep the continuous cycle going - but has insufficient liquids to heat. This just creates higher heat within the system. <br />
<br />
Worse, the factory control unit isn't designed to monitor the actual boiler temperature either. As a result,  it just keeps trying to keep the cycle going - even without enough liquids in the heating area. This excessive heat damages the plumbing piping and eventually causes a burst of these chemicals to the outside air - an immediate and intense fire may result!<br />
Our ARP RV Fridge Controller is the final solution for the RV Refrigerator<br />
<br />
Our Patented ARPrv Controller monitors the temperatures right at the source of the problem - the heating element area. We have years of research invested in knowing what acceptable levels of temperatures within the cooling unit are. Our temperature sensor/probe is installed directly on the boiler tube itself, so we get exact temperature data to our RV fridge control.<br />
<br />
When the temperature starts to exceed predetermined safe levels, we simply turn off the refrigerator for a 10 minute time period. This allows the entire system to cool back down to a safe level. The refrigerator is then allowed to restart. We continue to monitor the temperatures and cycle the system off again if necessary to prevent failures.<br />
ARPrv Installation by Cooling Unit<br />
<br />
Please see our installation by cooling unit pages for examples of the ARP RV fridge control temperature sensor installations by make and model of refrigerator.  The ARPrv Control is universal, thus it can be used on almost all Norcold or Dometic fridges. If your fridge is not listed in these pages, please use the Contact Us below if you have any questions.  <br />
ARP Schedule<br />
Schedule for ARPrv <br />
<br />
Please click on the Scheduling Fridge image to the left to download maps and view seminar information for ARP Control.<br />
<br />
In brief, we will be in Quartzsite, AZ selling and installing controls December and January. Also in January we will be at the Indio, CA FMCA  Rally.  Starting February and into March we will be at Good Sam Rally Phoenix, AZ; Escapees Rally Tucson, AZ; Pomona FMCA Rally, CA.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Webasto Clicks then stops]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10409</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 29 Jan 2015 16:57:59 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10409</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I am back from 2015Q9 (2015 Quartzsite RV show/ Southwest BlueBird 9th annual gathering) and need to look at a intermittent start issue with my Webasto Hydronic heat system.  <br />
 Symptom: Turn on the heat at the Residential style wall t stat.... can hear the webasto unit circulation pump come on ....... after 15s can hear the tick tick of the flame spark ignition..... but hear no roar of the flame and the unit shuts down.....I cycled the process again by 'on then off' at the t stat and things seem to work. <br />
  Review: Shane of PA once posted "Clean and Oil first" I decided to get the annual nozzle and filters to do just that. After a complete clean up, now I cant get the unit to start at all. I believe this was not due to the maintenance efforts but the path I was headed when I did the 'click on, click off, click on repair'. <br />
  I found the Webasto sequence of events diagram  that show that the Webasto control box starts the circulation pump and the blower motor first.  The circulation pump is under the unit with 1 inch hoses in and out. the blower motor is in the head of the Webasto burner.  the blower motor does three  things. ;it fans the flame ;clears the burn chamber of fumes; and gear drives the fuel pump that pressurizes the diesel to 117 psi .  During the start sequence, I should feel air coming out the exhaust..... but there was no air.  <br />
<br />
I jumped +12v to the blower motor  during the start of the sequence and the air flowed out the exhaust then 15 seconds later  I could hear the spark probes click then hear a roar of flame and feel heat.  As soon as I removed the +12 volt to the blower, the roar stopped and the  circulation pump soon turned off.  <br />
<br />
I ran the click 'off  on' at the t-stat again to test the output of the silver control module. on the silver box is a diagram that shows what output powers the motor (black wire) there is no voltage there.  I let the unit cool down and ran the sequence again and confirm that there is no +12v there.<br />
<br />
I think I need a silver control module.  I am concerned over several things.  Is there another prompt that is telling the control module to not power the blower?   What caused the control module to go bad, is the bad module a result of an issue that will damage the new control module?<br />
<hr />
On the wanderlodge owner forum is a thread  where someone reveals they have a source for a new control unit at a fair  price.  But the source said PM Me. wtf . can someone reveal the secret suppler.<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/pdf.gif" border="0" alt=".pdf" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=1530" target="_blank">WebastoDwbManu.pdf</a> (Size: 712.18 KB / Downloads: 1691)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I am back from 2015Q9 (2015 Quartzsite RV show/ Southwest BlueBird 9th annual gathering) and need to look at a intermittent start issue with my Webasto Hydronic heat system.  <br />
 Symptom: Turn on the heat at the Residential style wall t stat.... can hear the webasto unit circulation pump come on ....... after 15s can hear the tick tick of the flame spark ignition..... but hear no roar of the flame and the unit shuts down.....I cycled the process again by 'on then off' at the t stat and things seem to work. <br />
  Review: Shane of PA once posted "Clean and Oil first" I decided to get the annual nozzle and filters to do just that. After a complete clean up, now I cant get the unit to start at all. I believe this was not due to the maintenance efforts but the path I was headed when I did the 'click on, click off, click on repair'. <br />
  I found the Webasto sequence of events diagram  that show that the Webasto control box starts the circulation pump and the blower motor first.  The circulation pump is under the unit with 1 inch hoses in and out. the blower motor is in the head of the Webasto burner.  the blower motor does three  things. ;it fans the flame ;clears the burn chamber of fumes; and gear drives the fuel pump that pressurizes the diesel to 117 psi .  During the start sequence, I should feel air coming out the exhaust..... but there was no air.  <br />
<br />
I jumped +12v to the blower motor  during the start of the sequence and the air flowed out the exhaust then 15 seconds later  I could hear the spark probes click then hear a roar of flame and feel heat.  As soon as I removed the +12 volt to the blower, the roar stopped and the  circulation pump soon turned off.  <br />
<br />
I ran the click 'off  on' at the t-stat again to test the output of the silver control module. on the silver box is a diagram that shows what output powers the motor (black wire) there is no voltage there.  I let the unit cool down and ran the sequence again and confirm that there is no +12v there.<br />
<br />
I think I need a silver control module.  I am concerned over several things.  Is there another prompt that is telling the control module to not power the blower?   What caused the control module to go bad, is the bad module a result of an issue that will damage the new control module?<br />
<hr />
On the wanderlodge owner forum is a thread  where someone reveals they have a source for a new control unit at a fair  price.  But the source said PM Me. wtf . can someone reveal the secret suppler.<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/pdf.gif" border="0" alt=".pdf" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=1530" target="_blank">WebastoDwbManu.pdf</a> (Size: 712.18 KB / Downloads: 1691)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[A-C drain leak 450.]]></title>
			<link>http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10201</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 28 Apr 2014 13:36:10 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com/showthread.php?tid=10201</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi <br />
Garland,<br />
Here is the picture of the drain problem in the 450's. It happens to all 4 ac's. A thoughtless design. (again). Take centre ceiling only down using FLAT wide crowbar Reach under to near plastic Christmas tree. If you take the sides of the ceiling down, you can pull some pex up from the side. <br />
Consider adding 3inches pex and straight connectors.Facet wrench ground thinner will help with nut.<br />
<br />
Did the changes to the slide out controls that I sent help with some of your slide issues?<br />
<br />
Ross<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=1221" target="_blank">IMG_20140225_170540.jpg</a> (Size: 2.67 MB / Downloads: 1138)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hi <br />
Garland,<br />
Here is the picture of the drain problem in the 450's. It happens to all 4 ac's. A thoughtless design. (again). Take centre ceiling only down using FLAT wide crowbar Reach under to near plastic Christmas tree. If you take the sides of the ceiling down, you can pull some pex up from the side. <br />
Consider adding 3inches pex and straight connectors.Facet wrench ground thinner will help with nut.<br />
<br />
Did the changes to the slide out controls that I sent help with some of your slide issues?<br />
<br />
Ross<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><img src="images/attachtypes/image.gif" border="0" alt=".jpg" />&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=1221" target="_blank">IMG_20140225_170540.jpg</a> (Size: 2.67 MB / Downloads: 1138)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></content:encoded>
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