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cmillsap · 07-17-2013, 15:16

David,

I need to know how to adjust the suspension to the proper ride height. Where to take measurements and how many inches. Also, where is the leveling switch for the suspension? The leveling light is on and we need to get the coach level so the light will go off. I'm here now at redlands and need the info!

Chuck

davidbrady · (This post was last modified: 07-17-2013 15:26 by davidbrady.)

Hi Chuck,

The spec is 8" +- 3/16" for both the steer and the drive axle air springs.

You measure the complete spring, from the bottom face of the piston to the top of the bead plate. I'll see if I can dig up a picture.

The location of the height control valves and their adjustable shafts should be plainly visible when you craw under the coach. The front HCV is at the center of the stick axle and the two drive axle HCV's are to the forward and outer sides of the drive axle.

cmillsap · 07-17-2013, 16:10

(07-17-2013 15:20)davidmbrady Wrote: Hi Chuck,

The spec is 8" +- 3/16" for both the steer and the drive axle air springs.

You measure the complete spring, from the bottom face of the piston to the top of the bead plate. I'll see if I can dig up a picture.

The location of the height control valves and their adjustable shafts should be plainly visible when you craw under the coach. The front HCV is at the center of the stick axle and the two drive axle HCV's are to the forward and outer sides of the drive axle.

Hello David,
This is Rolando, would you happen to know what triggers the light on the dash for the suspension?

Thank You

davidbrady · 07-17-2013, 16:46

Hi Rolando,

From Chuck's earlier post I think you're referring to the "Level Warning" light on the dashboard. This light will come on if any of the HWH jacks aren't fully retracted. It will also come on if the HWH room locks aren't engaged. It's important when retracting the slide to hold the retract button until the locks are fully engaged and the hydraulic pump turns itself off. This takes 3 to 5 seconds after the room has stopped moving. Go down to the first basement bay street side and look at the room lock status LED's. They should report the state of the room lock pins. You need to close the basement door for the LEDs to illuminate.

al perna · 07-17-2013, 20:24

Rolando , you should also be able to see the pins locking if you keep your eye steady on the light . as David said it is a must that the pins lock as the noise will drive you nuts .

cmillsap · (This post was last modified: 07-17-2013 23:26 by cmillsap.)

I want to thank David for his help in solving the level warning light that wouldn't go off. I did not know that the slide latches were tied to that warning light. We had checked that all the jacks were stored properly and that the suspension was properly leveled. So we would have probably still been looking for the problem had David not told us to check the slide latches. This must be the umpthteen time that I have asked David for help. He has always responded in every way he could. I really appreciate it and I owe him a lot.

When they repaired the corner trim piece on the slide; they extended the slide to access the slide top corner more easily. When they retracted the slide, they evidentially did not hold the button until the slide latched.

When we realized the slide was not fully closed by looking at the LEDs in the bay, we decided to extend the slide and then retract it properly. When I tried to extend the slide, it would not move either way. I turned the key off, then back on, waited about 30 seconds again for the yellow light to come on, then pressed the retract button, the slide moved in just enough to latch the pins. Afterwards the slide worked as it should and the level warning light went away.

I did find that the buzzer is wired through an accessory switch on my dash and can be shut off but the warning light stays on. I don't kbow if that is peculiar to my bus or all are wired like that.

davidbrady · (This post was last modified: 07-18-2013 13:41 by davidbrady.)

It's totally my pleasure Chuck - I'm glad I could help. Smile

My LXi doesn't have the buzzer wired thru an accessory switch but I think that's a pretty nifty feature. Someday we'll talk about slide locking pins. (Hint, I have mine disabled, but that's a whole other discussion)!

Did you bring the bus home? What's the ETA?

cmillsap · (This post was last modified: 07-18-2013 14:48 by cmillsap.)

(07-18-2013 13:39)davidmbrady Wrote: It's totally my pleasure Chuck - I'm glad I could help.

My LXi doesn't have the buzzer wired thru an accessory switch but I think that's a pretty nifty feature. Someday we'll talk about slide locking pins. (Hint, I have mine disabled, but that's a whole other discussion)!

Did you bring the bus home? What's the ETA?

Yes, "Big Blue Boy" is home! 45 days of being updated and repaired and a significant reduction of funds from my wallet, the bus drives like a dream. About everything you can think of has been gone over, updated or repaired from the exhaust to new belts and hoses, removal of the sway bar, new Koni shocks, Transynd in the tranny, new PTO, new Hayden fans, new air dryer, brakes, new wheel seals, I could go on & on as there are 6 pages of items on the invoice. Add all this to the $10K the P.O. spent for repairs & improvements such as new slide cylinders and we should have the bus in pretty good shape now. Removal of small areas of Florida rust on some of the framework and we should be about done. At least, I hope so before the money well runs dry Big Grin

David, it's the same old story, seems like to keep these behemouths in roadworthy condition, it's almost impossible to keep the investment less than their market value.