6" SS EXHAUST STACK - Printable Version

Terry Neal
Bozeman, MT
82PT40 6V92TA
74FC34 6V53T

Kurt Horvath wrote:

So far as constructed it can divert all but a dribble of 5 gallons a

min. flow. If it rains that hard I think I'd worry more about the

coach sinking into the ground. You can try to bend .083 thick SS.

Good luck. The slits are flush and polished to keep the gas flow

unrestricted. The catch can is a bit large, but does fit my

application and has a large enough capacity to compensate for my lack

of attention. Also if I use the Rain Cap or the 90 Degree turn out

with it's anti-rain provisions the catch can is overkill. That's the

fun part of building stuff your self. You get to do whatever suits

you.---Again this is the prototype I built for my coach, the

production version is a copy of the OEM parts in SS and includes a

muffler and a 90 degree turn out tip. The catch can came about from

our past discussions on the subject, and until I can get it mounted

in the coach, it's purely experimental

Kurt Horvath

95 PT 42

10AC

In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com",
David Brady "dmb993@..." wrote:

>

> Kurt,

>

> I think that your water trap is a good design. I'd probably shorten

> the accumulator tank/pipe to around 3 inches, just enough to

capture the

> occasional burst of water, and I'd probably simply drill a quarter

> inch hole in the bottom. That should do it. To make it even better

> you could bend the slits on the exhaust pipe a bit to create a set

of

> scoops to better collect the water. Should work fine.

>

> David Brady

> '02 LXi, NC

>

> Kurt Horvath wrote:

> >

> >

> >

> > Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on my exhaust build.
I

> > should have some photos today rain permitting.

> >

> > Some forum members brought up several points that I had not
fully

> > considered or researched.

> >

> > Some of the mods are a 90 degree turnout pipe up top, a 30
degree

> > miter cut with a rain visor and a drain tube on the necks
bottom

> > inside curve of the turn out. This should keep most of the
rain

out.

> >

> > Not being able to decide on exactly which type of exit I
wanted I

> > have built, two types the 90 I just described and a straight
stack

> > with a rain cap.

> >

> > Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I polished it up.

> >

> > If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a straight shot from the

> > exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems with
mufflers

have

> > water traps and some have drains as well, small holes drilled
into

> > the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a muffler, for a

straight

> > stack, so some sort of rain trap had to be created that would
not

> > interfere with the exhaust gas flow and trap and drain rain

> > accumulation of any proportions. A 5" hole can accumulate a
lot of

> > water in a daily south Florida afternoon rain, day after day

sooner

> > or later your going to fill the block with water. According to

> > Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!! Detroit used the words

Catastrophic

> > Failure several times.

> >

> > This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on
the

Home

> > Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you are

looking at

> > is the drain section with the garden hose on full flow. 5
gallons

per

> > min. As you can see it gets most of the flow. The section of
tube

on

> > the ground has been cut down to 6" long with a 3.5" electric

exhaust

> > dump valve installed on a flange to open and close the water

trap. At

> > this point it is manually operated by a rocker switch or a by
a

> > remote key fob.

> >

> > I'm working on a thermal activated switch that will close the

valve

> > upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it
detects

water

> > in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open it
when

parked

> > and close it before you crank up the motor

> >

> > Some of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows,
and

the

> > commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to

another

> > modification.

> >

> > Most likely NOT a this stage, unless of course someone spots a

> > glaring defect or error in my build.

> >

> > I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the
coach,

> > she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten

> > several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she

would

> > sitting for a while.

> >

> > Comments, criticism, suggestions, jokes, remarks, welcomed.

> >

> > Currently this is a prototype for my coach, a direct
replacement

for

> > the 95-96 PT42's is in the works. It will be built Stainless
Steel

> > and will be a direct bolt in application, to replace the OEM

parts.

> >

> > Kurt Horvath

> > 95 PT 42

> > 10AC

> >

> >

> > ----------------------------------------------------------

------

> >

> > No virus found in this incoming message.

> > Checked by AVG.

> > Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.9.13/1827 - Release
Date:

12/3/2008 5:41 PM

> >

>

6" SS EXHAUST STACK - Stephen Birtles - 12-05-2008 01:23

a plastic bucket works great
use a broom stick to mount
and a series sixty or 8v92 to demount

Stephen 77fc35

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath" wrote:
>
> Wallace,
>
> Just stick it in the end of the tube. You could go to the hardware
> store and get some 6" CPVC with a cap and do the same thing. if you
> go the baggie route. Use rubber bands or little bungies, if you use
> masking tape the sun will bake it onto the pipe and you'll need some
> kind of solvent to get it off. That mean getting up on top of the
> coach.
>
> Kurt Horvath
> 95 PT42
> 10AC
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wallace Craig
> wrote:
> >
> > My stack turns 90* to the starboard; don't see how "stack hat"
> would work. Baggie and scotch tape is sure cheaper.
> >
> >
> > Wallace Craig
> > 95 WLWB 42
> > Azle, Texas
> >
> > --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote:
> >
> > From: Kurt Horvath
> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 9:16 PM
> >
> > Wallace,
> >
> > Here is a safe, clean, easy fix, for long term parking, to protect
> > against rain entering the exhaust. You do not need to climb on top
> of
> > your coach, just use the included pole and storage bag when you
> don't
> > need it.
> >
> > Make sure you copy and past all of the address below.
> >
> > http://www.iowa80.com/DirectionsWEB/webcart_productDisplay.php?
> > itemid=98467
> >
> > Kurt Horvath
> > 95 PT 42
> > 10AC
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I haven't researched it, but the problem of the 6" stack is the
> > issue
> > > -- almost all accessories max out at 5" diameter. Someone
> > somewhere
> > > might offer a 6" flap stack cover.
> > >
> > > In the interim, perhaps a (metal) bucket and bungee cord would
> > > provide protection. Use a small, light (kids) bucket, and no
> > bungee
> > > cord and it will remove itself when you start up -- otherwise,
> be
> > > sure not to forget to remove it!
> > >
> > > Pete Masterson
> > > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > > aeonix1@
> > > On the road at Williams, AZ
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Dec 4, 2008, at 9:51 AM, Wallace Craig wrote:
> > >
> > > > For us pore lawyer types; simple is the best solution. Do you
> > know
> > > > if the flap like I described is available that fits the coach
> > that
> > > > you and I have with 90 degree exhaust end?? I am going to be
> on
> > > > South Padre Island for Jan & Feb and would like to keep water
> > out.
> > > >
> > > > Wallace Craig
> > > > 95 WLWB 42
> > > > Azle, Texas
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote:
> > > > From: Kurt Horvath
> > > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK
> > > > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 10:20 AM
> > > >
> > > > Hi Wallace, I looked into several options, the one I liked most
> > was
> > > > bi-metalic valves. That's a strip of metal that expands and
> > > > contracts when heated and cooled. It's used in some muffler
> > > > applications. When it's cold it leaves a gap over a hole when
> > > > heated it contracts and covers the opening. Easy few parts
> > > > automatic operation, simular to what you described. The
> current
> > > > prototype can be modified in this manner. The electric valve
> can
> > be
> > > > removed and a flange can be put in it's place with any type of
> > > > device from a bung with a plug to the exhaust dump valve to
> > drain
> > > > away the water. I wanted the trap to be capable of draining
> away
> > an
> > > > possible water flow that might be encountered. Five gallons a
> > min.
> > > > is most likly more than enough, unless that little son of gun
> > > > Murphy shows up. L.O.L. Of course the rain cap will do the job
> > but
> > > > it's not a very attractive option, The 90 degree turn out pipe
> > also
> > > > works well but I've been trying to delete as many turns in the
> > > > pipes as possible. The system that will be offered to the
> > general
> > > > public is a direct replacement of OEM parts for your coach,
> The
> > > > photos that will be posted soon are of the exhaust going into
> my
> > > > coach. Kurt Horvath 95 PT 42 10AC --- In
> > > > WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wallace Craig
> >
> > > > wrote: > > Kurt, I am probably the last person on earth that
> > you
> > > > should tale advise from about anything mechanical. Having
> said
> > > > that; can you not install a flap at the end of the exhaust that
> > is
> > > > weighted to stay closed when the engine is not operating? I
> know
> > I
> > > > have seen it on truck applications. > Keep Tennessee clean &
> > green,
> > > > maybe I will get back that way sometime soon. Fuel is $2.44
> at
> > > > Racetrack in Azle. Happy holidays. > > > Wallace Craig
> > > 95
> > WLWB
> > > > 42 > Azle, Texas > > --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath
> >
> > > > wrote: > > From: Kurt Horvath > Subject:
> > > > [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK > To:
> > > > WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > Date: Thursday, December 4,
> > > > 2008, 8:58 AM > > Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on
> > my
> > > > exhaust build. I > should have some photos today rain
> > permitting.
> > > > > > Some forum members brought up several points that I had not
> >
> > > > fully > considered or researched. > > Some of the mods are a
> > 90
> > > > degree turnout pipe up top, a 30 degree > miter cut with a
> rain
> > > > visor and a drain tube on the necks bottom > inside curve of
> the
> > > > turn out. This should keep most of the rain out. > > Not being
> > able
> > > > to decide on exactly which type of exit I wanted I > have
> built,
> > > > two types the 90 I just described and a straight stack > with
> a
> > > > rain cap. > > Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I
> > polished
> > > > it up. > > If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a
> > straight shot
> > > > from the > exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems
> > with
> > > > mufflers have > water traps and some have drains as well,
> small
> > > > holes drilled into > the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of
> a
> > > > muffler, for a straight > stack, so some sort of rain trap had
> > to
> > > > be created that would not > interfere with the exhaust gas flow
> > and
> > > > trap and drain rain > accumulation of any proportions. A 5"
> > hole
> > > > can accumulate a lot of > water in a daily south Florida
> > afternoon
> > > > rain, day after day sooner > or later your going to fill the
> > block
> > > > with water. According to > Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!!
> > > > Detroit used the words Catastrophic > Failure several times. >
> > >
> > > > This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on
> the
> > > > Home > Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you
> > are
> > > > looking at > is the drain section with the garden hose on full
> > > > flow. 5 gallons per > min. As you can see it gets most of the
> > flow.
> > > > The section of tube on > the ground has been cut down to 6"
> > long
> > > > with a 3.5" electric exhaust > dump valve installed on a
> > flange
> > to
> > > > open and close the water trap. At > this point it is manually
> > > > operated by a rocker switch or a by a > remote key fob. > >
> > I'm
> > > > working on a thermal activated switch that will close the valve
> > >
> > > > upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it
> detects
> > > > water > in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open
> > it
> > > > when parked > and close it before you crank up the motor > >
> >
> > Some
> > > > of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows, and
> the
> > >
> > > > commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to
> > > > another > modification. > > Most likely NOT a this stage,
> > unless
> > of
> > > > course someone spots a > glaring defect or error in my build. >
> >
> > >
> > > > I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the
> coach,
> >
> > >
> > > > she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten
> > >
> > > > several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she
> > would
> > > > > sitting for a while. > > Comments, criticism, suggestions,
> >
> > jokes,
> > > > remarks, welcomed. > > Currently this is a prototype for my
> > coach,
> > > > a direct replacement for > the 95-96 PT42's is in the works.
> > It
> > > > will be built Stainless Steel > and will be a direct bolt in
> > > > application, to replace the OEM parts. > > > > Kurt
> > Horvath > 95
> > PT
> > > > 42 > 10AC > > > ------------------------------------ >
> > > Yahoo!
> > > > Groups Links > ------------------------------------ Yahoo!
> > Groups
> > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum/join (Yahoo! ID
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>

6" SS EXHAUST STACK - Chris Fogleman - 12-05-2008 03:33

Terry, Just to let you know it 80 deg in southern california Stay warm Terry

Chris E. Fogleman

Complete Coach Works

Alternative Fuel Sales Manager

Cell: (951) 836-6520

www.thelegacyreturns.com

"cfogleman@completecoach.com"

"cfogleman@bluebirdcoachworks.com"

From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Terry Neal
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2008 8:57 PM
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK

Very, very nice Kurt. You obviously have a lot of thought and planning into this "upgrade". Think I'll just imitate your design. If that's ok with you?

Terry
Trying to survive at 7 deg F. Wind chill is -8 deg F.

Ernie... are you warm?

Terry Neal

Bozeman, MT

82PT40 6V92TA

74FC34 6V53T





Kurt Horvath wrote: 







So far as constructed it can divert all but a dribble of 5 gallons a 

min. flow. If it rains that hard I think I'd worry more about the 

coach sinking into the ground. You can try to bend .083 thick SS. 

Good luck. The slits are flush and polished to keep the gas flow 

unrestricted. The catch can is a bit large, but does fit my 

application and has a large enough capacity to compensate for my lack 

of attention. Also if I use the Rain Cap or the 90 Degree turn out 

with it's anti-rain provisions the catch can is overkill. That's the 

fun part of building stuff your self. You get to do whatever suits 

you.---Again this is the prototype I built for my coach, the 

production version is a copy of the OEM parts in SS and includes a 

muffler and a 90 degree turn out tip. The catch can came about from 

our past discussions on the subject, and until I can get it mounted 

in the coach, it's purely experimental



Kurt Horvath

95 PT 42

10AC



In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", David Brady "dmb993@..." wrote:

>

> Kurt,

> 

> I think that your water trap is a good design. I'd probably shorten

> the accumulator tank/pipe to around 3 inches, just enough to 

capture the

> occasional burst of water, and I'd probably simply drill a quarter

> inch hole in the bottom. That should do it. To make it even better

> you could bend the slits on the exhaust pipe a bit to create a set 

of

> scoops to better collect the water. Should work fine.

> 

> David Brady

> '02 LXi, NC

> 

> Kurt Horvath wrote:

> >

> >

> >

> > Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on my exhaust build. I

> > should have some photos today rain permitting.

> >

> > Some forum members brought up several points that I had not fully

> > considered or researched.

> >

> > Some of the mods are a 90 degree turnout pipe up top, a 30 degree

> > miter cut with a rain visor and a drain tube on the necks bottom

> > inside curve of the turn out. This should keep most of the rain 

out.

> >

> > Not being able to decide on exactly which type of exit I wanted I

> > have built, two types the 90 I just described and a straight stack

> > with a rain cap.

> >

> > Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I polished it up.

> >

> > If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a straight shot from the

> > exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems with mufflers 

have

> > water traps and some have drains as well, small holes drilled into

> > the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a muffler, for a 

straight

> > stack, so some sort of rain trap had to be created that would not

> > interfere with the exhaust gas flow and trap and drain rain

> > accumulation of any proportions. A 5" hole can accumulate a lot of

> > water in a daily south Florida afternoon rain, day after day 

sooner

> > or later your going to fill the block with water. According to

> > Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!! Detroit used the words 

Catastrophic

> > Failure several times.

> >

> > This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on the 

Home

> > Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you are 

looking at

> > is the drain section with the garden hose on full flow. 5 gallons 

per

> > min. As you can see it gets most of the flow. The section of tube 

on

> > the ground has been cut down to 6" long with a 3.5" electric 

exhaust

> > dump valve installed on a flange to open and close the water 

trap. At

> > this point it is manually operated by a rocker switch or a by a

> > remote key fob.

> >

> > I'm working on a thermal activated switch that will close the 

valve

> > upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it detects 

water

> > in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open it when 

parked

> > and close it before you crank up the motor

> >

> > Some of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows, and 

the

> > commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to 

another

> > modification.

> >

> > Most likely NOT a this stage, unless of course someone spots a

> > glaring defect or error in my build.

> >

> > I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the coach,

> > she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten

> > several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she 

would

> > sitting for a while.

> >

> > Comments, criticism, suggestions, jokes, remarks, welcomed.

> >

> > Currently this is a prototype for my coach, a direct replacement 

for

> > the 95-96 PT42's is in the works. It will be built Stainless Steel

> > and will be a direct bolt in application, to replace the OEM 

parts.

> >

> > Kurt Horvath

> > 95 PT 42

> > 10AC

> >

> > 

> > ----------------------------------------------------------

------

> >

> > No virus found in this incoming message.

> > Checked by AVG. 

> > Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.9.13/1827 - Release Date: 

12/3/2008 5:41 PM

> >

>

Terry, Just to let you know it
80 deg in southern california Stay warm Terry

Chris E. Fogleman

Complete Coach Works

Alternative
Fuel Sales Manager

Cell: (951) 836-6520

www.thelegacyreturns.com

"cfogleman@completecoach.com"

"cfogleman@bluebirdcoachworks.com"

From:
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com ["Wanderlodge"Forum@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Terry Neal

Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2008 8:57 PM

To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK

Very, very nice Kurt. You obviously
have a lot of thought and planning into this "upgrade". Think I'll
just imitate your design. If that's ok with you?

Terry

Trying to survive at 7 deg F. Wind chill is -8 deg F.

Ernie... are you warm?

Terry Neal

Bozeman, MT

82PT40 6V92TA

74FC34 6V53T











Kurt Horvath wrote:











So far as constructed it can divert all but a dribble of 5 gallons a 



min. flow. If it rains that hard I think I'd worry more about the 



coach sinking into the ground. You can try to bend .083 thick SS. 



Good luck. The slits are flush and polished to keep the gas flow 



unrestricted. The catch can is a bit large, but does fit my 



application and has a large enough capacity to compensate for my lack 



of attention. Also if I use the Rain Cap or the 90 Degree turn out 



with it's anti-rain provisions the catch can is overkill. That's the 



fun part of building stuff your self. You get to do whatever suits 



you.---Again this is the prototype I built for my coach, the 



production version is a copy of the OEM parts in SS and includes a 



muffler and a 90 degree turn out tip. The catch can came about from 



our past discussions on the subject, and until I can get it mounted 



in the coach, it's purely experimental







Kurt Horvath



95 PT 42



10AC







In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com",

David Brady "dmb993@..." wrote:



>



> Kurt,



> 



> I think that your water trap is a good design. I'd probably shorten



> the accumulator tank/pipe to around 3 inches, just enough to 



capture the



> occasional burst of water, and I'd probably simply drill a quarter



> inch hole in the bottom. That should do it. To make it even better



> you could bend the slits on the exhaust pipe a bit to create a set





of



> scoops to better collect the water. Should work fine.



> 



> David Brady



> '02 LXi, NC



> 



> Kurt Horvath wrote:



> >



> >



> >



> > Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on my exhaust build.

I



> > should have some photos today rain permitting.



> >



> > Some forum members brought up several points that I had not

fully



> > considered or researched.



> >



> > Some of the mods are a 90 degree turnout pipe up top, a 30

degree



> > miter cut with a rain visor and a drain tube on the necks

bottom



> > inside curve of the turn out. This should keep most of the

rain 



out.



> >



> > Not being able to decide on exactly which type of exit I

wanted I



> > have built, two types the 90 I just described and a straight

stack



> > with a rain cap.



> >



> > Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I polished it up.



> >



> > If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a straight shot from the



> > exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems with

mufflers 



have



> > water traps and some have drains as well, small holes drilled

into



> > the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a muffler, for a 



straight



> > stack, so some sort of rain trap had to be created that would

not



> > interfere with the exhaust gas flow and trap and drain rain



> > accumulation of any proportions. A 5" hole can accumulate a

lot of



> > water in a daily south Florida afternoon rain, day after day 



sooner



> > or later your going to fill the block with water. According to



> > Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!! Detroit used the words 



Catastrophic



> > Failure several times.



> >



> > This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on

the 



Home



> > Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you are 



looking at



> > is the drain section with the garden hose on full flow. 5

gallons 



per



> > min. As you can see it gets most of the flow. The section of

tube 



on



> > the ground has been cut down to 6" long with a 3.5" electric 



exhaust



> > dump valve installed on a flange to open and close the water 



trap. At



> > this point it is manually operated by a rocker switch or a by

a



> > remote key fob.



> >



> > I'm working on a thermal activated switch that will close the





valve



> > upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it

detects 



water



> > in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open it

when 



parked



> > and close it before you crank up the motor



> >



> > Some of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows,

and 



the



> > commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to 



another



> > modification.



> >



> > Most likely NOT a this stage, unless of course someone spots a



> > glaring defect or error in my build.



> >



> > I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the

coach,



> > she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten



> > several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she





would



> > sitting for a while.



> >



> > Comments, criticism, suggestions, jokes, remarks, welcomed.



> >



> > Currently this is a prototype for my coach, a direct

replacement 



for



> > the 95-96 PT42's is in the works. It will be built Stainless

Steel



> > and will be a direct bolt in application, to replace the OEM 



parts.



> >



> > Kurt Horvath



> > 95 PT 42



> > 10AC



> >



> > 



> > ----------------------------------------------------------



------



> >



> > No virus found in this incoming message.



> > Checked by AVG. 



> > Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.9.13/1827 - Release

Date: 



12/3/2008 5:41 PM



> >



>