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(07-01-2013 11:22)davidmbrady Wrote: [ -> ]Hi Corey,
Thanks for the write up. I'm on the road and can't type much on this Android. (I'll comment more later). Let me know when the Samsung arrives and I'll swing down to Hendersonville to help you get it into the coach.
You bet! Talk later....
i know you are talking a bigger fridge than what i put in my previous newell, but the concept is the same. i disconnected the defrost so it would conserve energy even more.
http://newellgurus.com/Thread-Propane-to...conversion
since a propane fridge is "sealed" in the opening, i did cover up the openings to the outside that it used for venting. i made a door panel on the side one to still have access and be able to plug it in etc.
i also made a small plenum with a computer fan that was switchable in a d cab next to the fridge to have more airflow across the back of the fridge.
for someone who lives in arizona, it was a huge upgrade. plus the interior space was much larger and it kept cold in the 110 plus degree days
tom
Tom,
Tell us about the solenoid lock you've got on the reefer doors.
I replaced the coil assembly on our Dometic refer with an Amish replacement. Following their instructions on removing the unit from the wall was the most important step. Getting the height of the dolly just right meant that the refer would slide in and out without jamming.
The old coil was breached in the burner area and the cartridge heaters were corroded in place. Probably because of the salty conditions experienced here in Florida.
The Amish coils were noticeably heavier than the originals because of the thicker gage tubing used.
Installation wasn't difficult and the results were good.
We did some soul searching as to this upgrade vs a domestic unit. Safety was an issue that we addressed with the addition of an extinguisher aimed at the burner.
Service help via the phone was excellent from the Amish dealer.
We use the LP feature when we are between 50 amp service and don't use the genny.
I wish I had documented the removal and replacement with pics.
Darrell
(07-03-2013 20:42)Darrell Snell Wrote: [ -> ]I replaced the coil assembly on our Dometic refer with an Amish replacement. Following their instructions on removing the unit from the wall was the most important step. Getting the height of the dolly just right meant that the refer would slide in and out without jamming.
The old coil was breached in the burner area and the cartridge heaters were corroded in place. Probably because of the salty conditions experienced here in Florida.
The Amish coils were noticeably heavier than the originals because of the thicker gage tubing used.
Installation wasn't difficult and the results were good.
We did some soul searching as to this upgrade vs a domestic unit. Safety was an issue that we addressed with the addition of an extinguisher aimed at the burner.
Service help via the phone was excellent from the Amish dealer.
We use the LP feature when we are between 50 amp service and don't use the genny.
I wish I had documented the removal and replacement with pics.
Darrell
Did the Amish dealer require you use metal tires on the dolly?
Darrell,
I think you did the right thing and I'm on your heels. I plan to swap out my cooling unit for an Amish unit. The only thing that I'd do differently is perhaps line the flue area behind the cooling unit with a thin cementatious board of sorts (hardy plank style). In effect, build a fire chamber. I'm still not convinced that folks are seeing charring of the wood at the roof of the bus. Some have seen discoloration which may be carbon from a rich mixture. Did you notice any discoloration when you disassembled yours? I personally think the fire hazard from ammonia absorption refrigerators is exaggerated. There are tens of thousands of these units installed in motorhomes and working today with thousands of hours on each unit. We've seen some fires but we've also seen fires from Aquahots, electrical wiring, generators, batteries, exhausts, and shorted alternators. I think there's a bit of hysteria here. A new cooling unit with a well built flue chamber and a fire apparatus is way above the call of duty in my personal opinion. In my personal opinion, we need to resist the desire to overgeneralize. What we see in a specific coach may not apply to all. My Dometic has had flawless performance. It's worked great for almost ten years. It's worked in Arizona in 120 deg heat and in Asheville in 10 deg winters. It's uber quiet and reliable with no moving parts. It doesn't need an inverter and it doesn't need 120VAC. All it needs is a few milliamps of 12V current and a propane source. It's performance has made a believer out of me.
(07-03-2013 23:00)davidmbrady Wrote: [ -> ]Darrell,
I think you did the right thing and I'm on your heels. I plan to swap out my cooling unit for an Amish unit. The only thing that I'd do differently is perhaps line the flue area behind the cooling unit with a thin cementatious board of sorts (hardy plank style). In effect, build a fire chamber. I'm still not convinced that folks are seeing charring of the wood at the roof of the bus. Some have seen discoloration which may be carbon from a rich mixture. Did you notice any discoloration when you disassembled yours? I personally think the fire hazard from ammonia absorption refrigerators is exaggerated. There are tens of thousands of these units installed in motorhomes and working today with thousands of hours on each unit. We've seen some fires but we've also seen fires from Aquahots, electrical wiring, generators, batteries, exhausts, and shorted alternators. I think there's a bit of hysteria here. A new cooling unit with a well built flue chamber and a fire apparatus is way above the call of duty in my personal opinion. In my personal opinion, we need to resist the desire to overgeneralize. What we see in a specific coach may not apply to all. My Dometic has had flawless performance. It's worked great for almost ten years. It's worked in Arizona in 120 deg heat and in Asheville in 10 deg winters. It's uber quiet and reliable with no moving parts. It doesn't need an inverter and it doesn't need 120VAC. All it needs is a few milliamps of 12V current and a propane source. It's performance has made a believer out of me.
I didn't see charring anywhere in the enclosure although there was delamination of the plywood on the forward bulkhead. All the same I added a thin gage sheet of stainless to the bulkhead near the burner.
Apparently it's not only heat to worry about.
The more I read, the happier I am with my decision. I also get the concept of keeping the absorption for its versatility and with some of you it will not be a problem as you are good at monitoring and preventative diagnosis. On the other hand, this article may tip the scales for some. I'm definitely excited about getting a much more modern and feature-full replacement for almost the same cost as the repair parts too.
Please read!!!
http://www.aegiforensics.com/library/pdf...-Part1.pdf
on the electric household side by side fridges newell installed a 12v solenoid with a plunger about the diameter of your finger. it is in the wood above the top of the fridge. then on each side by side door they fab'd a piece of aluminum that screws to the top of the doors that has an arm that when the door is shut and the plunger is activated it will go infront of the metal arm that is attached to the door. the arms on each door overlap each other at different heights.
there is a fridge lock/unlock switch in the control panel across from the fridge.
there is also a fridge unlocked indicator light on the dummy light panel above the driver. when you turn the ignition on, it automatically activates the fridge lock unless the switch is in the unlocked position, but it will then show the dummy light saying the fridge is unlocked.
tom
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