Wanderlodge Gurus - The Member Funded Wanderlodge Forum

Just got back from a trip with no 110v generator output.
The motor runs fine but no 110v. I took it to an ONAN service
center and they said it was a bad xfer switch but that they had
actualy had it running propery (all lights and air). I tried the
genset today and no 110v again, so I took the cover off the xfer
switch and re-started the generator. After the time delay the
contactor pulled in and I measured 110v in on both hot wires from the
black cable bundle entering on the top right (I assume that is from
the generator) and 110v out on both hot wires exiting in the white
cable bundle at the xfer switch bottom but I still do not have 110v in
the coach. I checked the dual breaker located in the compartment
behind the batteries and it was on. The main breaker in the ac distribution
panel was on as well as the receptacle power. Neither leg1 or 2 voltmeters
indicate anything unless I switch on the leg1 switch in the panel.

Any help would be appreciated.

Chuck Harrison
Akron, Ohio
90 WLSP36

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "williamcharrison"
wrote:
>
> Just got back from a trip with no 110v generator output.
> The motor runs fine but no 110v. I took it to an ONAN service
> center and they said it was a bad xfer switch but that they had
> actualy had it running propery (all lights and air). I tried the
> genset today and no 110v again, so I took the cover off the xfer
> switch and re-started the generator. After the time delay the
> contactor pulled in and I measured 110v in on both hot wires from the
> black cable bundle entering on the top right (I assume that is from
> the generator) and 110v out on both hot wires exiting in the white
> cable bundle at the xfer switch bottom but I still do not have 110v in
> the coach. I checked the dual breaker located in the compartment
> behind the batteries and it was on. The main breaker in the ac distribution
panel was on as well as the receptacle power. Neither leg1 or 2 voltmeters
indicate anything unless I switch on the leg1 switch in the panel.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Chuck Harrison
> Akron, Ohio
> 90 WLSP36
>

You only mention voltage, did you check for 60 cycles per second? Unless they
have been defeated there should be regulators which will shut down if the cps or
voltage are out of range which, if uncorrected, can easily burn up microwave
ovens, electronics, and even ACs.

I was shocked recently to read advice to replace a breaker after it tripped. (I
always thought they could be turned off and on indefinitely like a light
switch.) You say you checked, but does that mean you flipped it off, then on
again? Sometimes a "trip" is very slight. With all power off, I suggest you pop
the breakers out and replace anything that smells burned, or looks like dull
carbon, even if you can get it working. If you don't know how they pop loose
from the breaker box, someone at a Home Depot or such ought to be able to show
you.

Does your unit have an outlet right on the genset? You might consider purchasing
one of those plug-in testers that will give a reading of power quality at any
outlet. If the genset tests OK, you can keep your attention on where the power
goes from there.

First rule: Don't burn yourself up.
Second rule: Don't burn up your appliances.

Note that in order to follow these rules requires a lot of care and patience.
Your problem sounds, ultimately, easy and cheap to fix, but I place no bets on
how long it will take to find it.

My knowledge of gensets is limited but my experience with the DKD has been that
90% of the problems are related to the Amphenol type connectors on top of the
genset. Others have found the same problem. Sometimes if you just wiggle the
connectors everything works. I know this sounds simplistic but others have
concurred.

Bruce