Since you have a 95=42', you must have an AquaHot system. At the least, turn on your AC power, and make sure the A-H thermostats are set for a minimum temperature. The electric element is usually sufficient to keep the basement heaters (with their thermostat set at 40 degrees) going, but it won't keep the interior warm. You can set the 'hydronic heat' switch on the dash to ON, then the AH will keep the interior at 55 degrees or so with the thermostats set at minimum.
Open the cabinets below the sinks so warm air can reach the pipes.
With that, the system ought to be assured of not freezing.
The problem, even when you've drained everything, is that there are low spots where water will have 'puddled' and there's always some water in the pumps that might freeze and damage them. You also have the p-traps under the sinks and shower that can burst if the water in them freezes --
as well as other low spots where water might have collected in the plumbing. The water service tubes in the Aquahot are spirals of pipe -- and they're nearly impossible to fully drain. (Damage to the A-H would be very expensive.)
Winterizing involves completely clearing water out of the pipes -- and most also recommend putting the "pink stuff" antifreeze (the kind that isn't toxic) into the water system.
But if all you're facing is a few days of freezing weather, then just turning on the Aquahot sytem should be sufficient.
We get (rare) nights here where temperatures will drop into the high 20s for a few hours. It's enough that an outside faucet might be frozen (so it doesn't turn on) but I've never had a cracked or burst pipe. On those nights, I always just made sure that the Aquahot electric was on and that the diesel burner (hydronic heat) switch was also on so that if
necessary, the AH system could keep the coach above freezing. I never had any problems with freezing.
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Well charged batteries won't be affected by freezing unless the temperatures get exceedingly cold (not likely in Texas). Discharged batteries are another matter.
Unless you're planning to start the engine, there's no need to turn on the block heater.
============ ========= ========= ========= ========
Pete Masterson, Author of
Book Design and Production: A Guide for Authors and Publishers
Aeonix1@Mac. com
Aeonix Publishing Group http://www.aeonix. com
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On Dec 5, 2009, at 8:11 AM, Ron Thompson wrote:
Question, I drained my fresh water tank by opening the drain valve in the curbside bay where all the water pumps are. I don't have the AC or DC supplies turned on. I do hav!
e a batt
ery charger on my batteries. I opened all the faucets inside the RV. Here is my question???? ?? Is this enough to get the water out of the lines. Inside the RV won't be a problem unless it stays down in the low 20's for several days. The black and grey water tanks are drained as well.
Is this enough prep for a freezing night?
Ron Thompson -Waller, Tx.
1995 WLWB 42'
(cockyfox@sbcglobal. net)
--- OnSat, 12/5/09, Jipjob<jipjob@yahoo. com>wrote:
From: Jipjob <jipjob@yahoo. com>
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] How do you get your coach ready for freezing weather?
To:WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, December 5, 2009, 9:37 AM
Well its suppose to drop down into the 20's this weekend with highs in the low 30's. I do not want my coach to freeze up-what would be the simplest solution? I really do not want to blow down the system but if I haft to I will. I have a space heater in the area where the pipes runs back and fort and think I might just fire up the propane heaters in the old rig-do you think that will
keep the pipes from freezing????
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