Steve, I agree with making a dry clean connection then keeping the union
protected. I found straight up silicon caulk to be the best. If you make a
clean connection and use plastic spraypaint that works good too. I use plastic
spraypaint on cables then tape it off. only problem is if you need to refit
its a pain to clean. wd40 works good on some of the cheap stuff to clean it off.
using the dielectric crap in the engine compartment doesnt work (volvo taillight
experience)as the heat dries it out and the solvents leave the powery cakey
dielectric grease on the union. the good stuff the electric company uses cant
be exposed to air for that reason. however: silicone caulk needs to be exposed
to air prior to taping off. I use the hard silicon caulk for trailer
connections and just cut them off if I need to repair. when I fit a plug on a
trailer
the hard silicon found at homedepot, helps keep the wires on the screws if some
reason the wire is tugged. the hard stuff wont clean off for a repair at all.
but, a repair is not often needed once the hard stuff sets. dont use wd40 under
the silicon, wash the fittings with soap and water first, not sure that brake
cleaner of electrical contact cleaner works better or at all. soap and water
then air is how I clean most things. I even use laundry soap to stain/hullrott
grassseed. water is the universial solvent the 02 is the problem as it oxidizes
once contact is made. metal with a bit of oxidizing paints better and the paint
holds longer, so oxidizing isnt always a bad thing unless it is progressing and
continual
Greg of Tim&Greg
94ptca
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles"
wrote:
>
> you don't have to use a certain or specific cleaner on molex connectors
> if the pins are clean by all means use silicone as well as being an insulator
it acts as a non-hardening sealant to stop air infiltration
> the cause of the corrosion
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, GARY MINKER wrote:
> >
> > YOW, silicon grease is very bad. You must use the Caig Labs cramolin
cleaner on molex pins. I have not found anything that works besides mechanical
abrasion and this stuff. The silicon grease is an insulator and will louse up
your metering and low current connections. You can have several big connectors
in a line to go from here to there. You have to get to them all. My door bell
keeps quitting because of one.
> >
> > --- On Sat, 7/25/09, Kurt Horvath wrote:
> >
> > From: Kurt Horvath
> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Electroluminescent Dashboard Gremlins
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Saturday, July 25, 2009, 3:58 PM
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Â
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Gary,
> >
> >
> >
> > I just unplugged and cleaned all the plugs and applied dielectric grease to
all the pins.
> >
> >
> >
> > I did not help the EL lights, but it did get the high idle to function
better, It's a bit temperamental, it's no wonder some of the pins were very
corroded, with a light white powdery coating.
> >
> >
> >
> > So it may help in other areas as well, you know how some things work
intermittently, Gremlins!
> >
> >
> >
> > Kurt Horvath
> >
> > 95 PT 42
> >
> > 10AC
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, GARY MINKER
wrote:
> >
> > >
> >
> > > You could be a victim of a large Molex plug failure.
> >
> > > Caig Labs makes a good pin protectant
> >
> > > re seat all the front area Molex connectors
> >
> > >
> >
> > > --- On Sun, 7/19/09, Kurt Horvath wrote:
> >
> > >
> >
> > > From: Kurt Horvath
> >
> > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Electroluminescent Dashboard Gremlins
> >
> > > To: WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com
> >
> > > Date: Sunday, July 19, 2009, 5:40 PM
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > Â
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > Electroluminescent Dashboard Gremlins
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > I've been working on this one for a while.
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > Here' an update.EL went back in April.
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > They would light briefly when the headlight were turned on, but would then
go out. I have replaced the inverters, the dimmer functions correctly, headlight
switch functions correctly
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > I had no power to the dimmer and after searching the blueprint several
times I don't have the correct print that shows anything in the EL/Generator
Bay. If anyone has that Blueprint or a blueprint of the wiring for the dashboard
please post it or e-mail it to me.
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > Power problem was solved by George Morris @ Bleakley's suggestion wire it
to an open slot in a bus bar with a 5 amp fuse. This worked Great!!! The EL
fired up and were home free.
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > That great success was short lived. The EL`s out again. The dimmer is
powered, the fuse did not blow, the dimmer functions correctly, good ground, one
inverter has power the other does not..
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > Any idea on where to go from here?
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > Kurt Horvath
> >
> > >
> >
> > > 95 PT 42
> >
> > >
> >
> > > 10AC
> >
> > >
> >
>