Don,
A while back I put up a sub folder at the Photos link to the left of this
window. The sub folder is titled "1983 Valve Lashing /Doghouse Insulation".
These should help. Also, below are some posts with new edits I made about this
project at another forum. Some of it is redundant to what I already said.
"I recently went through the process of removing the doghouse, valve lashing,and
re installing the dog house.I resealed the doghouse with high-temp gasket
material applied with a standard caulking gun. It worked well and can be removed
if I need to take it up again.
I used 2" 2#/sf quilted fiberglass with lead decoupler in the middle. The lead
is nice because it formed well to the contours. Because of it's weight, it
requires mechanical fasteners in addition to heavy 3M adhesive. If I were to do
it again I think I would use heavy duty paint on contact cement. The 3M aerosol
is expensive and I'm not sure
there is any advantage to it.
I am put in a new floor using a very dense rubber/foam 1/2" 2# sq. ft sub floor
(foam side down). I got the quilted lead and sub floor from SounDown.
Fortunately, they are nearby and I did not have to pay shipping. This stuff is
heavy!
The finish floor is Dupont Laminate snap together flooring (Henna Hickory). 30
year warranty...I have installed this stuff before and I like it. )zero
maintenance. You can whack it with a hammer and no damage. The sub and finish
floors will simply rest in place with no glue or fasteners. If I need to take it
up, its easy. I have attached a couple photos of the dog house in process. I
have lots of other photos if anybody is interested."
What did you use for a sealant between the bottom of the doghouse where it meets
the floor and the front sides of the doghouse where it meets the firewall?
I used Permatex High Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker. I purchased it at a heavy
truck shop parts dept. About $15 a tube. I used about 1/2 tube. See photo below.
What am I using for a sub floor in the driver's area?
I am using the same sub floor throughout the front of the coach. From the the
drivers side of the accelerator and brake pedals back to the salon side of the
mid-door entry way where it meets ceramic floor (its all level). All the
furniture and seat mounts and seat belts have been removed. I did not remove the
built in couch. The vertical carpeting is in good shape so that is not being
touched. This will save a lot of work and money. This floating floor will butt
nicely into the carpet. It needs 1/4" clearance around the perimeter and seat
belt mounts too. Here I cut holes through to the plywood floor below the sub
floor and used a stack of heavy washers to elevete the mounts just slightly
above floor level when tightened down with new longer bolts.
"The sub floor material is from Soundown it is 1/2" thick 2#/sq. ft. It One side
is dense foam and the other is dense mass loaded vinyl. This should be installed
vinyl side up. The Soundown rep stated some people make the mistake of putting
vinyl side down and this defeats the sound deadening properties. The link below
will take you to that particular product line. <
http://www.soundown.com/carpet%20under.htm >.
I have ohotows of the finished floor I will put up when I get a chance.
Call me if you want more details. 603668-2888
NH Bill 1983 FC "Casa Billisa"
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Dorn Hetzel
wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> Can you provide more details about the fiberglass/lead sandwich
> doghouse insulation?
>
> I'm getting ready to pull my radiator to replace all the belts and
> hoses behind it, and it seems like it
> might be a good time to insulate the doghouse since all the old
> insulation is rotted out.
>
> Regards,
>
> Dorn Hetzel
> 77FC35
> Hogansville, GA