Wanderlodge Gurus - The Member Funded Wanderlodge Forum

First, the Blue Ox base plate for my car (Toyota Camry) went on with no trouble as a do it yourself project. Had I known what I was doing, it would have taken considerably less time -- but it was less than 1/2 a day, just the same. Likewise, the SMI braking system (similar to the Air Force One) went in with no serious difficulty, except that it took me a while to figure out routing of some wires/tubes that are unique to each vehicle.(The unit I have is under the driver's seat -- I believe the AF1 fits under the hood.)Again, this was about a 1/2 day project for me.

As part of the installation of the lube pump, Camping World also hooked up the wiring to the toad system. It's sort of a requirement, since there is a power wire from the coach to the lube pump -- and a signal wire from the lube pump to an alarm device by the driver, so the completeumbilicalcord needs to be wired. Diodes are used to keep the coach-supplied signals from interfering with the toad electrical system. Due to the number of wires available, the separate turn signals are combined into the tail lights on the toad -- even though the coach has the "European" style separate signal lamps. With the lube-pump wiring, the umbilical does not have enough pins to carry the 2 extra turn signal wires for the split system.

In use, I've had headaches with the isolation diodes. I've had to replace one twice -- when the diode fails, it then screws up the toad lights even when you're not connected to the coach. In retrospect, if I'd have been able to have a dual bulb set up, that would have been preferred -- and I wouldn't have dropped $200 with the auto repair place, trying to troubleshoot the lighting system (to discover the bad diode). Note that the lights _worked_ when hooked to the coach, but didn't work -- sporadically -- when the car wasn't attached. (I got a 'light bulb out' signal on the dash -- but the bulb tested OK.) Trouble shooting was not obvious, because it didn't occur to me that the diodes might have failed -- at least not they way they did. I've heard it said that the common toad/trailer lighting sold in auto parts stores use rather cheap components that are subject to failure -- so I'd have rather not had those crummy components at all.... (The second failure gave similar symptoms as the first, so I was able to figure it out on my own.)

As for your choice of toads ... I don't think someone driving a 42' long, 48,000 lb RV is in much of a position to criticize your choice. Just be aware, that there are length limitations in some states, so be sure to measure the amount of roadway you use when hooked up. Most states are OK with 65' -- but a few have a 60' maximum -- and a couple have shorter maximums, at least on some roads. My coach and toad (with tow bar connected) are a combined 62'6" in length. The Hummer H2 is almost 17' with the tire carrier on the rear. Surprisingly, that's only a foot or so longer than my Toyota (I thought they were bigger than that...), so you should be able to comply with the maximum length requirement in most states. Depending on the tow bar geometry, you might even 'make' the 60 maximum. (Maximum length rules were found in a "truckers" road atlas -- and states vary in the degree of enforcement applied to RVs.)