While I was refurbing the generator (12.5 Kohler), I took the door off and am
now getting ready to put it back on.
It's real clear to me that it needs a layer of sound insulation because a naked
piece of sheet metal provides almost no sound deadening and probably amplifies
sound.
It's also pretty flimsy and flexes all over the place. I think I'm going to
install some form of stiffener frame around the outside edge and while I was
looking at all that I thought it might be good to hard mount it to the roller
rails so it doesn't float all over the place and vibrate. I'm also looking at
the idea of replacing the cheesey aluminum flange around the generator opening
with some type of molding that has a flexible portion to mate with the door. I
think that should help with sound too.
Any comments, advice, part recommendations?
I do have one concern that if I hard mount the door to the rails I might have
nasty problems if the door ever bottoms out.
Have anyone else done spmething like this?
How has it worked out?
Regards,
GPSGary
1984FC35SB
I can't comment on the frame, but definately add the insulation. When I did my
old FC, I used the thin stuff from JC Whitney and it worked fine, but I have
since discovered the thicker stuff Birtles sells and I swear by it.
On the aluminum surround, I also had the idea of making a flexible mating
surface to the door. I used some of the insulation for that as well, glued it
on so that it hung off and covered the gap. Not the most scientific design, but
it got the job done and was holding up fine when I sold the coach. Any open
space you can "plug" helps with sound deadening.
Also, I highly recommend you consider changing out to a 12v radiator fan to cut
down on noise as I discussed in previous posts. HUGE difference.
Scott Formn
86 PT38
Memphis
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "hippieforever3"
wrote:
>
> While I was refurbing the generator (12.5 Kohler), I took the door off and am
now getting ready to put it back on.
>
> It's real clear to me that it needs a layer of sound insulation because a
naked piece of sheet metal provides almost no sound deadening and probably
amplifies sound.
>
> It's also pretty flimsy and flexes all over the place. I think I'm going to
install some form of stiffener frame around the outside edge and while I was
looking at all that I thought it might be good to hard mount it to the roller
rails so it doesn't float all over the place and vibrate. I'm also looking at
the idea of replacing the cheesey aluminum flange around the generator opening
with some type of molding that has a flexible portion to mate with the door. I
think that should help with sound too.
>
> Any comments, advice, part recommendations?
>
> I do have one concern that if I hard mount the door to the rails I might have
nasty problems if the door ever bottoms out.
>
> Have anyone else done spmething like this?
> How has it worked out?
>
> Regards,
> GPSGary
> 1984FC35SB
>
flimsy has little to do with gauge of the metal and more to do with design
structure. if you build the new one with some bead rolls, the task is complete
or attach some solid core heat insulation pannel to it and a thin alumnium sheet
on the inside. strength with foam core requires chords on both sides and the
foam acts as the diagonals of a truss so the insulation wont help with sound
bouncing
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "hippieforever3"
wrote:
>
> While I was refurbing the generator (12.5 Kohler), I took the door off and am
now getting ready to put it back on.
>
> It's real clear to me that it needs a layer of sound insulation because a
naked piece of sheet metal provides almost no sound deadening and probably
amplifies sound.
>
> It's also pretty flimsy and flexes all over the place. I think I'm going to
install some form of stiffener frame around the outside edge and while I was
looking at all that I thought it might be good to hard mount it to the roller
rails so it doesn't float all over the place and vibrate. I'm also looking at
the idea of replacing the cheesey aluminum flange around the generator opening
with some type of molding that has a flexible portion to mate with the door. I
think that should help with sound too.
>
> Any comments, advice, part recommendations?
>
> I do have one concern that if I hard mount the door to the rails I might have
nasty problems if the door ever bottoms out.
>
> Have anyone else done spmething like this?
> How has it worked out?
>
> Regards,
> GPSGary
> 1984FC35SB
>
> Birtles, is that a store?
LOL, kinda sorta.... Stephen Birtles (email: cape0001@...) is a long
time member here. He is a good guy who supplies many parts for our older Birds,
including the insulation. His business name is Dupree Products
(
http://www.dupreeproducts.com). He'll be around soon to reply when he sees this
thread.
Mike Bulriss
1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
San Antonio, TX
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wayne Kotila
wrote:
>
> Birtles, is that a store?
> Waybe
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Scott Forman <scottforman75@...>
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2009 6:32:02 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Generator door
>
>
> I can't comment on the frame, but definately add the insulation. When I did my
old FC, I used the thin stuff from JC Whitney and it worked fine, but I have
since discovered the thicker stuff Birtles sells and I swear by it.
>
> On the aluminum surround, I also had the idea of making a flexible mating
surface to the door. I used some of the insulation for that as well, glued it on
so that it hung off and covered the gap. Not the most scientific design, but it
got the job done and was holding up fine when I sold the coach. Any open space
you can "plug" helps with sound deadening.
>
> Also, I highly recommend you consider changing out to a 12v radiator fan to
cut down on noise as I discussed in previous posts. HUGE difference.
>
> Scott Formn
> 86 PT38
> Memphis
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "hippieforever3" wrote:
> >
> > While I was refurbing the generator (12.5 Kohler), I took the door off and
am now getting ready to put it back on.
> >
> > It's real clear to me that it needs a layer of sound insulation because a
naked piece of sheet metal provides almost no sound deadening and probably
amplifies sound.
> >
> > It's also pretty flimsy and flexes all over the place. I think I'm going to
install some form of stiffener frame around the outside edge and while I was
looking at all that I thought it might be good to hard mount it to the roller
rails so it doesn't float all over the place and vibrate. I'm also looking at
the idea of replacing the cheesey aluminum flange around the generator opening
with some type of molding that has a flexible portion to mate with the door. I
think that should help with sound too.
> >
> > Any comments, advice, part recommendations?
> >
> > I do have one concern that if I hard mount the door to the rails I might
have nasty problems if the door ever bottoms out.
> >
> > Have anyone else done spmething like this?
> > How has it worked out?
> >
> > Regards,
> > GPSGary
> > 1984FC35SB
> >
>
Hello You Rang?
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@...> wrote:
>
> > Birtles, is that a store?
>
> LOL, kinda sorta.... Stephen Birtles (email: cape0001@...) is a long time
member here. He is a good guy who supplies many parts for our older Birds,
including the insulation. His business name is Dupree Products
(
http://www.dupreeproducts.com). He'll be around soon to reply when he sees this
thread.
>
> Mike Bulriss
> 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
> San Antonio, TX
>
>
>
> --- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wayne Kotila
wrote:
> >
> > Birtles, is that a store?
> > Waybe
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Scott Forman <scottforman75@>
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2009 6:32:02 PM
> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Generator door
> >
> >
> > I can't comment on the frame, but definately add the insulation. When I did
my old FC, I used the thin stuff from JC Whitney and it worked fine, but I have
since discovered the thicker stuff Birtles sells and I swear by it.
> >
> > On the aluminum surround, I also had the idea of making a flexible mating
surface to the door. I used some of the insulation for that as well, glued it on
so that it hung off and covered the gap. Not the most scientific design, but it
got the job done and was holding up fine when I sold the coach. Any open space
you can "plug" helps with sound deadening.
> >
> > Also, I highly recommend you consider changing out to a 12v radiator fan to
cut down on noise as I discussed in previous posts. HUGE difference.
> >
> > Scott Formn
> > 86 PT38
> > Memphis
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "hippieforever3" wrote:
> > >
> > > While I was refurbing the generator (12.5 Kohler), I took the door off and
am now getting ready to put it back on.
> > >
> > > It's real clear to me that it needs a layer of sound insulation because a
naked piece of sheet metal provides almost no sound deadening and probably
amplifies sound.
> > >
> > > It's also pretty flimsy and flexes all over the place. I think I'm going
to install some form of stiffener frame around the outside edge and while I was
looking at all that I thought it might be good to hard mount it to the roller
rails so it doesn't float all over the place and vibrate. I'm also looking at
the idea of replacing the cheesey aluminum flange around the generator opening
with some type of molding that has a flexible portion to mate with the door. I
think that should help with sound too.
> > >
> > > Any comments, advice, part recommendations?
> > >
> > > I do have one concern that if I hard mount the door to the rails I might
have nasty problems if the door ever bottoms out.
> > >
> > > Have anyone else done spmething like this?
> > > How has it worked out?
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > GPSGary
> > > 1984FC35SB
> > >
> >
>