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DAY8293A@...

HI JOHN,,, DENNIS HERE IN JAX FLA,,
WHEN I FIRST GOT MY COACH IN DEC 03,,, I WENT ON A MY FIRST
LITTLE TRIP UP TO DOUGLAS GA. (FOR A FAMILY REUNION) WHERE I FILLED THE TANK FOR
THE FIRST TIME,,, AND APPARENTLY THE FIRST TIME IN A LONG TIME,,,,
I ONLY GOT TO WAYCROSS GA, ON THE WAY BACK TO JACKSONVILLE (JAX)
BEFORE THE RACOR STARTED CLOGGING UP WITH ALL THE ALGAE THAT WAS APPARENTLY
FALLING
OFF THE WALLS SINCE I FILLED UP THE TANK !!
WELL, I HAVE NEVER EXPERIENCED SUCH A ROUGH RUNNING MACHINE!!, AS I
NEVER HAD ANY EXPERIENCE WITH A DIESEL,,, ONE OF THE REASONS I WAS VERY
APPREHENSIVE ABOUT BUYING AN "OLDER DIESEL BIRD".
I IMMEDIATELY CALLED A COUSIN OF MINE (A 30 YEAR DIESEL MECHANIC WITH
GREYHOUND,, LOTS OF EXPERIENCE WITH DETROIT DIESELS) AND HE TOLD ME IT SOUNDED
LIKE FUEL STARVATION.( HE HAD CHECKED OUT THE BUS JUST AFTER I BOUGHT IT AND
SAID IT LOOKED IN GOOD MECHANICAL CONDITION)
TO MAKE A LONG STORY SHORT,,, I HOBBLED ON EAST TO INTERSTATE 95, THE
ONLY TRUCK STOP OPEN ON A SUNDAY, WHERE THEY HAD THE PRIMARY AND SECONDARY
FILTERS, BUT NO RACOR FILTER ELEMENT REPLACEMENT.
AFTER ABOUT AN HOUR,OF WAITING AND WORRYING ABOUT HOW I WAS GOING TO
GET HOME,,, I ASKED THE GUY ABOUT RUNNING THE THING ON HOME WITHOUT THE RACOR
ELEMENT,(WHICH WAS OBVIOUSLY COVERED IN GUNKY ALGAE) SINCED I HAD THE OTHER TWO
FILTERS,,, , AND HE SAID,,, "GEE, I DIDN'T THINK ABOUT THAT,,,, YOU SHOULD
MAKE IT !!
SO,,, I DROVE THE LAST 90 MILES OR SO ON ONLY THE MAIN FILTERS,
WITHOUT THE RACOR ELEMENT IN THE RACOR FILTER,,,,,,(WHICH IS BEFORE THOSE MAIN
FILTERS),,,,, YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE ANY PROBLEMS JUST RUNNING IT FOR A SHORT TIME,
IF
YOU ARE NOT GOING TO BE SHAKING UP ANY GUNK OFF THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK,,,,
AFTER ALL,,, THOSE MAIN FILTERS WERE DESIGNED TO WORK WITHOUT A SUPER RACOR
FILTER ON THERE ANYWAY,,,
DENNIS A YOUNG (DAY) IN JACKSONVILLE (JAX) FLA 83 PT-40


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Adria Haynes

I still haven't really tried to start my 3208 again yet. I got the
900 series Racor off and found some of the internals to be damaged
from excessive heat. I have since decided to live without a heating
element in my water seperator as I move forward since I really don't
need my fuel so hot that it melts plastic inside of it - right next
to my LP pig.

In looking into the option of just replacing my filter/seperator
instead of rebuilding it, I stopped by the local West Marine as you
guys advised. The guy there showed me a flow chart that shows I
should be able to EASILY live with a 300 series seperator (320R
actually) with the spin on style filters.

Maybe I'm too green, but it seems like a no brainer. But I don't
really want to make any moves or spend any money without consulting
you professionals first, though. The things I liked about that unit
was that is had a primer built into it, the filters seemed easier to
change, and changing them seemed like it wouldn't be as messy. The
things I didn't like was that each new filter was like $27. A small
drop in the bucket I know, but still.

Please advise on any of your thoughts or experiences concerning
installing and/or maintaining one of these spin on style
filter/seperators.

Also, once the new unit is installed, how do I go about pushing fuel
up the line to the secondary filter? Just use that built in primer?

How do I do it if I go with another 900 series Racor?

How bad of an idea is it to just eliminate the Racor for the
afternoon to see if I can get the damn thing running without it at
all?

Still overwhelmed,
John

mrdonut12

John,
First, please list your year, model and location with each post.
We don't always remember and, in this case, may make a difference in
advice whether you're in Phoenix or Frostbite Falls, Minnesota
regarding the fuel heater. ;o)
You're beginning to learn about Blue Bird engineering and how
EVERYTHING is over-engineered and usually has a back up system to boot.
The reason FOR sticking with the 900 series is it's greater
capacity and the glass bowl. Think about it, if it has 4 times the
flow capacity, you can get nearly plugged up and not have a breakdown
because of the excess capacity.
If you get a filter system that's designed for the capacity, it
will take less obstruction until you're sitting on the side of the road.
The glass bowl lets you see how much water or rust particles
you're getting. A 25 year old fuel tank is full of rust bits and you
need all the filter you can get.
The past experience of the guys here has told me to use the 30
micron filter in the Racor, not the 10 or the 20, as they get plugged
faster.
I'd either fix the 900 series or replace it for those reasons.
Regarding trying to start the Cat without the filter--if you
think you have problems now, you ain't seen nuthin' yet if you put
gunk into the injector pump or injectors. ;o)
I hope this helps.
George Witt
81 FC 35
Lincoln, Nebraska


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Adria Haynes"
<mrbeebody@n...> wrote:
> I still haven't really tried to start my 3208 again yet. I got the
> 900 series Racor off and found some of the internals to be damaged
> from excessive heat. I have since decided to live without a heating
> element in my water seperator as I move forward since I really don't
> need my fuel so hot that it melts plastic inside of it - right next
> to my LP pig.
>
> In looking into the option of just replacing my filter/seperator
> instead of rebuilding it, I stopped by the local West Marine as you
> guys advised. The guy there showed me a flow chart that shows I
> should be able to EASILY live with a 300 series seperator (320R
> actually) with the spin on style filters.
>
> Maybe I'm too green, but it seems like a no brainer. But I don't
> really want to make any moves or spend any money without consulting
> you professionals first, though. The things I liked about that unit
> was that is had a primer built into it, the filters seemed easier to
> change, and changing them seemed like it wouldn't be as messy. The
> things I didn't like was that each new filter was like $27. A small
> drop in the bucket I know, but still.
>
> Please advise on any of your thoughts or experiences concerning
> installing and/or maintaining one of these spin on style
> filter/seperators.
>
> Also, once the new unit is installed, how do I go about pushing fuel
> up the line to the secondary filter? Just use that built in primer?
>
> How do I do it if I go with another 900 series Racor?
>
> How bad of an idea is it to just eliminate the Racor for the
> afternoon to see if I can get the damn thing running without it at
> all?
>
> Still overwhelmed,
> John

Adria Haynes

Sorry for not listing the essentials. It's just all a part of the
continuing saga for me that I have been posting about all week long.

It's a 1980 35FC with a 3208 Cat and I live in beautiful sunny
Flint, Michigan.

I figured I would be fine to not have the heater as long as I am
diligent about making sure I drain off any water before I winterize
the bus. Also, the spin on filters also have a transparent bowl
with drain valve as well. I do agree with what you are saying about
how often it would reason that I would have to change the filters,
but the 300 series canister doesn't appear to be three times smaller
than the 900 series as one would expect. This discrepency in logic
is one of the reasons I knew I had to check here first.

I do know what you are saying though, I need to consider more than
just GPH flow capacities.

I was asking about running it without the Racor because I thought
the Secondary filter inside the doghouse would work well enough to
get me through to see if I can get it to stay running for 10 minutes
or so. I'll excercise a little more patience until I get another
Racor in there first.

Thanks,
John






--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "mrdonut12"
<mrdonut12@y...> wrote:
>
> John,
> First, please list your year, model and location with each
post.
> We don't always remember and, in this case, may make a difference
in
> advice whether you're in Phoenix or Frostbite Falls, Minnesota
> regarding the fuel heater. ;o)
> You're beginning to learn about Blue Bird engineering and how
> EVERYTHING is over-engineered and usually has a back up system to
boot.
> The reason FOR sticking with the 900 series is it's greater
> capacity and the glass bowl. Think about it, if it has 4 times the
> flow capacity, you can get nearly plugged up and not have a
breakdown
> because of the excess capacity.
> If you get a filter system that's designed for the capacity,
it
> will take less obstruction until you're sitting on the side of the
road.
> The glass bowl lets you see how much water or rust particles
> you're getting. A 25 year old fuel tank is full of rust bits and
you
> need all the filter you can get.
> The past experience of the guys here has told me to use the 30
> micron filter in the Racor, not the 10 or the 20, as they get
plugged
> faster.
> I'd either fix the 900 series or replace it for those reasons.
> Regarding trying to start the Cat without the filter--if you
> think you have problems now, you ain't seen nuthin' yet if you put
> gunk into the injector pump or injectors. ;o)
> I hope this helps.
> George Witt
> 81 FC 35
> Lincoln, Nebraska
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Adria Haynes"
> <mrbeebody@n...> wrote:
> > I still haven't really tried to start my 3208 again yet. I got
the
> > 900 series Racor off and found some of the internals to be
damaged
> > from excessive heat. I have since decided to live without a
heating
> > element in my water seperator as I move forward since I really
don't
> > need my fuel so hot that it melts plastic inside of it - right
next
> > to my LP pig.
> >
> > In looking into the option of just replacing my filter/seperator
> > instead of rebuilding it, I stopped by the local West Marine as
you
> > guys advised. The guy there showed me a flow chart that shows I
> > should be able to EASILY live with a 300 series seperator (320R
> > actually) with the spin on style filters.
> >
> > Maybe I'm too green, but it seems like a no brainer. But I
don't
> > really want to make any moves or spend any money without
consulting
> > you professionals first, though. The things I liked about that
unit
> > was that is had a primer built into it, the filters seemed
easier to
> > change, and changing them seemed like it wouldn't be as messy.
The
> > things I didn't like was that each new filter was like $27. A
small
> > drop in the bucket I know, but still.
> >
> > Please advise on any of your thoughts or experiences concerning
> > installing and/or maintaining one of these spin on style
> > filter/seperators.
> >
> > Also, once the new unit is installed, how do I go about pushing
fuel
> > up the line to the secondary filter? Just use that built in
primer?
> >
> > How do I do it if I go with another 900 series Racor?
> >
> > How bad of an idea is it to just eliminate the Racor for the
> > afternoon to see if I can get the damn thing running without it
at
> > all?
> >
> > Still overwhelmed,
> > John

DAY8293A@...

I WILL KEEP MY RACOR,,,, IF YOU WANT TO "BYPASS" IT,, ALL YOU HAVE TO
DO IS REMOVE THE FILTER ELEMENT !
I LIKE HAVING IT TO SAVE THE REGULAR FILTERS FROM HAVING TO BE
REPLACED SO OFTEN (AS I AM NOW USING THE 2 MICRON ELEMENTS). I CAN RAISE THE
FILTER
ELEMENT UP OUT OF THE FILTER, AND SEE IF IT IS GETTING CLOGGED, WHEREAS, YOU
CAN'T TELL HOW CLOGGED THE MAIN TWO FILTERS ARE GETTING WITHOUTREPLACING THEM
AND CUTTING THEM OPEN. I WILL KEEP MY RACOR,,,, DAY JAX FLA 83 PT-40


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

samax8

-There will probably be a lot of knowledgeable people on this forum
that will disagree with this but here goes. As far as safely driving
without the racor. When I got my Bird I replaced all the fluids and
filters just to be on the safe side. I went to the Cat dealer for
the filters. When I tried to buy a Racor I was told that they did
not sell them nor did they recommend them. This from the guy in
parts. I then spoke with the service manager at Holt Caterpillar,
San Antonio, TX ( the largest Cat dealer in the US). He said they
did not approve of Racor filters as they only caused problems and
that my 3208 had two filters without the Racor and that was all I
needed. When I started working on the Bird replacing fluids and
filters I discovered that my Racor had been bypassed by the previous
owner. I later drove from Texas to the Birds Nest to have some work
done and asked them to hook up my Racor and put in a new filter.
They (maybe Bennie, I'm not sure) said that I did not need it, that
it was overkill.

I have put about 7000 miles on without a Racor and never had a
problem except once with the water seperator leaking air(defective
Cat part). I do change my fuel filter and water seperator regularly
along with my oil filters and get an oil analysis every oil change.

Good luck
Bill
82FC33

-- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Adria Haynes"
<mrbeebody@n...> wrote:
> I still haven't really tried to start my 3208 again yet. I got
the
> 900 series Racor off and found some of the internals to be damaged
> from excessive heat. I have since decided to live without a
heating
> element in my water seperator as I move forward since I really
don't
> need my fuel so hot that it melts plastic inside of it - right
next
> to my LP pig.
>
> In looking into the option of just replacing my filter/seperator
> instead of rebuilding it, I stopped by the local West Marine as
you
> guys advised. The guy there showed me a flow chart that shows I
> should be able to EASILY live with a 300 series seperator (320R
> actually) with the spin on style filters.
>
> Maybe I'm too green, but it seems like a no brainer. But I don't
> really want to make any moves or spend any money without
consulting
> you professionals first, though. The things I liked about that
unit
> was that is had a primer built into it, the filters seemed easier
to
> change, and changing them seemed like it wouldn't be as messy.
The
> things I didn't like was that each new filter was like $27. A
small
> drop in the bucket I know, but still.
>
> Please advise on any of your thoughts or experiences concerning
> installing and/or maintaining one of these spin on style
> filter/seperators.
>
> Also, once the new unit is installed, how do I go about pushing
fuel
> up the line to the secondary filter? Just use that built in
primer?
>
> How do I do it if I go with another 900 series Racor?
>
> How bad of an idea is it to just eliminate the Racor for the
> afternoon to see if I can get the damn thing running without it at
> all?
>
> Still overwhelmed,
> John

mrdonut12

Bill,
I won't pretend to have the knowledge or expertise in diesels
that these guys do, but I've got that much experience in automobiles,
maybe more.
I've been a mechanic for a living for over 30 years and am the
guy you bring your car to when no one else can figure it out and I'll
fix it. I was also involved in dirt track race cars (sprint cars with
350 cubic inch engines producing 700 hp on straight methanol fuel).
I've built many racing engines.
I'm only listing this to help you give weight (or take it away)
from my observations. ;o)
I've recently had my Racor apart, cleaned it thoroughly and
analyzed it's function.
If a Racor "causes problems" it's most likely plugged, broken or
neglected. I can think of no other things that would cause it to
"cause problems".
We've been reading cases of algae in fuel and it plugging up the
Racor.
I've only had a bird about a year and a half and I've put 25,000
miles on mine in that time.
I couldn't get mine to drain out the bottom drain valve. After I
took it apart, I found a handful of fine rust particles plugging the
bottom. I found almost another handful resting on the internal beams,
fuel heater and braces. It was a mess inside. ick.
If I remove my fuel filler cap, I can see a filler pipe with a
lot of loose rust in it. I can only imagine what the inside of the
tank might look like. That's the background on my system, yours may
be different.
Some of those rust particles are bound to get caught inside
rubber hoses, junctions in copper tubing or the cracks from tubing
connecting to rubber hoses and cause a restriction. The Racor will
remove those half way to the front. I only have to deal with crap
from the center to the rear of the bus.
I carefully watch my Racor guage to monitor for restrictions, so
I know if there's a problem or not.
The glass bowl on the bottom of my Racor lets me see easily and
quickly whether I have water in the system and lets me drain it out
easily. It also lets me see how much loose rust I get accumulating.
The guys at the Cat shop are seeing commercial vehicles that get
fresh fuel daily and are maintained (in most cases) by people that
know how to care for diesels. They keep the tanks full when not in
use and add algacide as needed.
Old birds may have been owned by people with none of this knowledge.
That's my case for keeping and maintaining my Racor on my unit.
Others may disagree and I'm fine with that. This is only to present
the other side of the story. I'm using the 30 micron filter element,
so it only gets the big chunks. LOL

George Witt
81 FC 35
Lincoln, Nebraska



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "samax8" wrote:
> -There will probably be a lot of knowledgeable people on this forum
> that will disagree with this but here goes. As far as safely driving
> without the racor. When I got my Bird I replaced all the fluids and
> filters just to be on the safe side. I went to the Cat dealer for
> the filters. When I tried to buy a Racor I was told that they did
> not sell them nor did they recommend them. This from the guy in
> parts. I then spoke with the service manager at Holt Caterpillar,
> San Antonio, TX ( the largest Cat dealer in the US). He said they
> did not approve of Racor filters as they only caused problems and
> that my 3208 had two filters without the Racor and that was all I
> needed. When I started working on the Bird replacing fluids and
> filters I discovered that my Racor had been bypassed by the previous
> owner. I later drove from Texas to the Birds Nest to have some work
> done and asked them to hook up my Racor and put in a new filter.
> They (maybe Bennie, I'm not sure) said that I did not need it, that
> it was overkill.
>
> I have put about 7000 miles on without a Racor and never had a
> problem except once with the water seperator leaking air(defective
> Cat part). I do change my fuel filter and water seperator regularly
> along with my oil filters and get an oil analysis every oil change.
>
> Good luck
> Bill
> 82FC33
>
> -- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Adria Haynes"
> <mrbeebody@n...> wrote:
> > I still haven't really tried to start my 3208 again yet. I got
> the
> > 900 series Racor off and found some of the internals to be damaged
> > from excessive heat. I have since decided to live without a
> heating
> > element in my water seperator as I move forward since I really
> don't
> > need my fuel so hot that it melts plastic inside of it - right
> next
> > to my LP pig.
> >
> > In looking into the option of just replacing my filter/seperator
> > instead of rebuilding it, I stopped by the local West Marine as
> you
> > guys advised. The guy there showed me a flow chart that shows I
> > should be able to EASILY live with a 300 series seperator (320R
> > actually) with the spin on style filters.
> >
> > Maybe I'm too green, but it seems like a no brainer. But I don't
> > really want to make any moves or spend any money without
> consulting
> > you professionals first, though. The things I liked about that
> unit
> > was that is had a primer built into it, the filters seemed easier
> to
> > change, and changing them seemed like it wouldn't be as messy.
> The
> > things I didn't like was that each new filter was like $27. A
> small
> > drop in the bucket I know, but still.
> >
> > Please advise on any of your thoughts or experiences concerning
> > installing and/or maintaining one of these spin on style
> > filter/seperators.
> >
> > Also, once the new unit is installed, how do I go about pushing
> fuel
> > up the line to the secondary filter? Just use that built in
> primer?
> >
> > How do I do it if I go with another 900 series Racor?
> >
> > How bad of an idea is it to just eliminate the Racor for the
> > afternoon to see if I can get the damn thing running without it at
> > all?
> >
> > Still overwhelmed,
> > John

randydupree

i think that having the racor but not having a electric fuel pump suppyling fuel
to it may be a problem..its too far and too much restriction to suck
through..randydupree93wb
----- Original Message -----
From: DAY8293A@...
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 1:51 AM
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Stalling cat -Spin on Racor + other
question


I WILL KEEP MY RACOR,,,, IF YOU WANT TO "BYPASS" IT,, ALL YOU HAVE TO
DO IS REMOVE THE FILTER ELEMENT !
I LIKE HAVING IT TO SAVE THE REGULAR FILTERS FROM HAVING TO BE
REPLACED SO OFTEN (AS I AM NOW USING THE 2 MICRON ELEMENTS). I CAN RAISE THE
FILTER
ELEMENT UP OUT OF THE FILTER, AND SEE IF IT IS GETTING CLOGGED, WHEREAS, YOU
CAN'T TELL HOW CLOGGED THE MAIN TWO FILTERS ARE GETTING WITHOUTREPLACING THEM
AND CUTTING THEM OPEN. I WILL KEEP MY RACOR,,,, DAY JAX FLA 83 PT-40


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

pattypape

Just purchased a spare electric fuel pump. It seems to be getting
louder,but at least I know it is running. Makes it easy to
push/prime fuel.
Easy to change and a small part to carry as a spare, about $60.00.
Napa #6101033 Facet # 40109 BB #1029594

Bill 88 FC does not have a hand prime pump

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, randydupree
wrote:
> i think that having the racor but not having a electric fuel pump
suppyling fuel to it may be a problem..its too far and too much
restriction to suck through..randydupree93wb
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: DAY8293A@C...
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 1:51 AM
> Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Stalling cat -Spin on Racor
+ other question
>
>
> I WILL KEEP MY RACOR,,,, IF YOU WANT TO "BYPASS" IT,,
ALL YOU HAVE TO
> DO IS REMOVE THE FILTER ELEMENT !
> I LIKE HAVING IT TO SAVE THE REGULAR FILTERS FROM HAVING
TO BE
> REPLACED SO OFTEN (AS I AM NOW USING THE 2 MICRON ELEMENTS). I
CAN RAISE THE FILTER
> ELEMENT UP OUT OF THE FILTER, AND SEE IF IT IS GETTING CLOGGED,
WHEREAS, YOU
> CAN'T TELL HOW CLOGGED THE MAIN TWO FILTERS ARE GETTING
WITHOUTREPLACING THEM
> AND CUTTING THEM OPEN. I WILL KEEP MY RACOR,,,, DAY JAX FLA 83
PT-40
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum/
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> WanderlodgeForum-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
of Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

samax8

-George,

I appreciate your knowledge and experience. I expected contrary
positions when I posted and I do not disagree with anything that you
posted. I was just passing on info that I had been given in response
to someone questioning if he could drive a short distance bypassing
the racor.

My understanding of the Racor problems was that they mainly
concerned air leaks. I have no experience, good or bad, with a Racor
on my Bird.

You make a good point that most of the guys that the Cat shop is
seeing are commercial drivers.

I can inspect my fuel for water and debris at the water separator.
Admittedly after it has gone thru the main fuel filter.

I do not discourage using a Racor filter. Just saying it can be done
and is done. The more filtering the better I'm sure. It's just that,
in my case, after having gone through one air leak problem I was
easily convinced that avoiding the potential for another was a good
thing.

Maybe I will get around to hooking mine back up and see how it goes.

Thanks for your input.

Bill
82FC33


-- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "mrdonut12" <mrdonut12@y...>
wrote:
> Bill,
> I won't pretend to have the knowledge or expertise in diesels
> that these guys do, but I've got that much experience in
automobiles,
> maybe more.
> I've been a mechanic for a living for over 30 years and am the
> guy you bring your car to when no one else can figure it out and
I'll
> fix it. I was also involved in dirt track race cars (sprint cars
with
> 350 cubic inch engines producing 700 hp on straight methanol
fuel).
> I've built many racing engines.
> I'm only listing this to help you give weight (or take it
away)
> from my observations. ;o)
> I've recently had my Racor apart, cleaned it thoroughly and
> analyzed it's function.
> If a Racor "causes problems" it's most likely plugged, broken
or
> neglected. I can think of no other things that would cause it to
> "cause problems".
> We've been reading cases of algae in fuel and it plugging up
the
> Racor.
> I've only had a bird about a year and a half and I've put
25,000
> miles on mine in that time.
> I couldn't get mine to drain out the bottom drain valve.
After I
> took it apart, I found a handful of fine rust particles plugging
the
> bottom. I found almost another handful resting on the internal
beams,
> fuel heater and braces. It was a mess inside. ick.
> If I remove my fuel filler cap, I can see a filler pipe with a
> lot of loose rust in it. I can only imagine what the inside of the
> tank might look like. That's the background on my system, yours
may
> be different.
> Some of those rust particles are bound to get caught inside
> rubber hoses, junctions in copper tubing or the cracks from tubing
> connecting to rubber hoses and cause a restriction. The Racor will
> remove those half way to the front. I only have to deal with crap
> from the center to the rear of the bus.
> I carefully watch my Racor guage to monitor for restrictions,
so
> I know if there's a problem or not.
> The glass bowl on the bottom of my Racor lets me see easily
and
> quickly whether I have water in the system and lets me drain it out
> easily. It also lets me see how much loose rust I get
accumulating.
> The guys at the Cat shop are seeing commercial vehicles that
get
> fresh fuel daily and are maintained (in most cases) by people that
> know how to care for diesels. They keep the tanks full when not in
> use and add algacide as needed.
> Old birds may have been owned by people with none of this
knowledge.
> That's my case for keeping and maintaining my Racor on my
unit.
> Others may disagree and I'm fine with that. This is only to
present
> the other side of the story. I'm using the 30 micron filter
element,
> so it only gets the big chunks. LOL
>
> George Witt
> 81 FC 35
> Lincoln, Nebraska
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "samax8"
wrote:
> > -There will probably be a lot of knowledgeable people on this
forum
> > that will disagree with this but here goes. As far as safely
driving
> > without the racor. When I got my Bird I replaced all the fluids
and
> > filters just to be on the safe side. I went to the Cat dealer
for
> > the filters. When I tried to buy a Racor I was told that they
did
> > not sell them nor did they recommend them. This from the guy in
> > parts. I then spoke with the service manager at Holt
Caterpillar,
> > San Antonio, TX ( the largest Cat dealer in the US). He said
they
> > did not approve of Racor filters as they only caused problems
and
> > that my 3208 had two filters without the Racor and that was all
I
> > needed. When I started working on the Bird replacing fluids and
> > filters I discovered that my Racor had been bypassed by the
previous
> > owner. I later drove from Texas to the Birds Nest to have some
work
> > done and asked them to hook up my Racor and put in a new filter.
> > They (maybe Bennie, I'm not sure) said that I did not need it,
that
> > it was overkill.
> >
> > I have put about 7000 miles on without a Racor and never had a
> > problem except once with the water seperator leaking air
(defective
> > Cat part). I do change my fuel filter and water seperator
regularly
> > along with my oil filters and get an oil analysis every oil
change.
> >
> > Good luck
> > Bill
> > 82FC33
> >
> > -- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Adria Haynes"
> > <mrbeebody@n...> wrote:
> > > I still haven't really tried to start my 3208 again yet. I
got
> > the
> > > 900 series Racor off and found some of the internals to be
damaged
> > > from excessive heat. I have since decided to live without a
> > heating
> > > element in my water seperator as I move forward since I really
> > don't
> > > need my fuel so hot that it melts plastic inside of it - right
> > next
> > > to my LP pig.
> > >
> > > In looking into the option of just replacing my
filter/seperator
> > > instead of rebuilding it, I stopped by the local West Marine
as
> > you
> > > guys advised. The guy there showed me a flow chart that shows
I
> > > should be able to EASILY live with a 300 series seperator
(320R
> > > actually) with the spin on style filters.
> > >
> > > Maybe I'm too green, but it seems like a no brainer. But I
don't
> > > really want to make any moves or spend any money without
> > consulting
> > > you professionals first, though. The things I liked about
that
> > unit
> > > was that is had a primer built into it, the filters seemed
easier
> > to
> > > change, and changing them seemed like it wouldn't be as
messy.
> > The
> > > things I didn't like was that each new filter was like $27. A
> > small
> > > drop in the bucket I know, but still.
> > >
> > > Please advise on any of your thoughts or experiences
concerning
> > > installing and/or maintaining one of these spin on style
> > > filter/seperators.
> > >
> > > Also, once the new unit is installed, how do I go about
pushing
> > fuel
> > > up the line to the secondary filter? Just use that built in
> > primer?
> > >
> > > How do I do it if I go with another 900 series Racor?
> > >
> > > How bad of an idea is it to just eliminate the Racor for the
> > > afternoon to see if I can get the damn thing running without
it at
> > > all?
> > >
> > > Still overwhelmed,
> > > John
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