I'm in the early stages of a complete remodel on my 84FC35SB and
first up is the electrical system.
One thing that would make the design simpler is to disconnect the two
30A runs and only use the 50A connector with a "cheater" adapter on
the 50A cord.
If I understand this correctly the only downside to this is if you
hook up to shore power you will be limited to 30A MAX and never have
the infrequently used option of connecting to two separate 30A
supplies. Is this the ONLY downside? Have I over looked something?
I'm also convinced I'm going to need a separate house battery bank
for the type of travel we anticipate so I will have one alternator,
one shore hook-up and one generator (currently being refurbed for
reliable operation). If anyone have done a similar remodel, I would
absolutely love for you to share what you did. When I look at the
options I'm overwhelmed by the choices and I've got to solidify this
design soon.
Regards,
GPSGary
1984FC35SB
Hi Gary:
In '85 some FC's only had the 50 amp connection and there were no 30 amp
connectors in the out side elect hook up compartment. The Coaches were
wired for it but the 30 amps were not hooked up.
I leave the 30 amp shore power cords at home in storage now. By using the
50 amp cord you will have 50 amps per leg, using the adapter on the 50 amp
to 30 amp you will have a TOTAL of 30 amps, that is aprox 15 amps per leg
on shore power. You can run one AC unit but not two or you can rum most
things in the coach but not an AC and Microwave as for instance. For sure
no hair driers,,,
Charolette and I traveled for 3 years on the road with what you describe
but I did not separate the house and start batteries. I had 6 house/start
batteries plus the gen set battery on an isolator. Worked nicely for me.
But keep in mind, camping for us is either shore power hook up of the gen
set runs, period. Of course that is the only thing for a gen set and that
is run,,run,,run as that is it's purpose in life.
Safe travels,
Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
84FC35 "Ruff Diamond"
Duncan, Oklahoma
At 06:45 PM 1/18/2009 +0000, you wrote:
>I'm in the early stages of a complete remodel on my 84FC35SB and
>first up is the electrical system.
>
>One thing that would make the design simpler is to disconnect the two
>30A runs and only use the 50A connector with a "cheater" adapter on
>the 50A cord.
>
>If I understand this correctly the only downside to this is if you
>hook up to shore power you will be limited to 30A MAX and never have
>the infrequently used option of connecting to two separate 30A
>supplies. Is this the ONLY downside? Have I over looked something?
>
>I'm also convinced I'm going to need a separate house battery bank
>for the type of travel we anticipate so I will have one alternator,
>one shore hook-up and one generator (currently being refurbed for
>reliable operation). If anyone have done a similar remodel, I would
>absolutely love for you to share what you did. When I look at the
>options I'm overwhelmed by the choices and I've got to solidify this
>design soon.
>
>Regards,
>GPSGary
>1984FC35SB
>
>
>
>
>
Gary,
I have never used the 30amp connectors in our coach so I feel that you are safe there. I do use a cheater and also carry a homemade cheater that splits the 50amp into two 20 amp leads. I use this when visiting family and at the ranch. With each one plugged into a separate 20 amp feed I have never blown a breaker. I also have a adapter that lets me use the 30 amp and a 20 amp connection at parks that do not have 50 amp. Again I have never tripped a breaker but a FC31 only has two ac units.
I though about a separate battery bank but needed the storage space more. We carry a small Honda that we use to recharge the batteries, and power Kathy's morning coffee when dry camping. I chose the Honda for two reasons, it is approved for parks where generators have noise limits, and since we spend a lot of time in very cold weather, it will power the block heaters and recharge the batteries if I have trouble starting one or both of the diesels. (I have never had to use it for this so far)
- Chuck Wheeler-
1982 FC 31SB Fort Worth TX
I'm in the early stages of a complete remodel on my 84FC35SB and
first up is the electrical system.
One thing that would make the design simpler is to disconnect the two
30A runs and only use the 50A connector with a "cheater" adapter on
the 50A cord.
If I understand this correctly the only downside to this is if you
hook up to shore power you will be limited to 30A MAX and never have
the infrequently used option of connecting to two separate 30A
supplies. Is this the ONLY downside? Have I over looked something?
I'm also convinced I'm going to need a separate house battery bank
for the type of travel we anticipate so I will have one alternator,
one shore hook-up and one generator (currently being refurbed for
reliable operation). If anyone have done a similar remodel, I would
absolutely love for you to share what you did. When I look at the
options I'm overwhelmed by the choices and I've got to solidify this
design soon.
Regards,
GPSGary
1984FC35SB
Hi Gary
One thing that I would suggest , using solar panels as a supplement
to your system .
Mario1985fc35
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "hippieforever3"
wrote:
>
> I'm in the early stages of a complete remodel on my 84FC35SB and
> first up is the electrical system.
>
> One thing that would make the design simpler is to disconnect the
two
> 30A runs and only use the 50A connector with a "cheater" adapter
on
> the 50A cord.
>
> If I understand this correctly the only downside to this is if you
> hook up to shore power you will be limited to 30A MAX and never
have
> the infrequently used option of connecting to two separate 30A
> supplies. Is this the ONLY downside? Have I over looked something?
>
> I'm also convinced I'm going to need a separate house battery bank
> for the type of travel we anticipate so I will have one
alternator,
> one shore hook-up and one generator (currently being refurbed for
> reliable operation). If anyone have done a similar remodel, I
would
> absolutely love for you to share what you did. When I look at the
> options I'm overwhelmed by the choices and I've got to solidify
this
> design soon.
>
> Regards,
> GPSGary
> 1984FC35SB
>
Coming from my Boating side of my lifeto RV'in I can tell you that in Boating and at all boating supply houses you can take 2 30 amp outlet to a cheaterbox to make the 50 amp trip.The box is $$ but they do work. I would not be able to tell you of the reliability when you have a oven micro, charger, hot water heater all come on a the same time for the most part boat marina only have 30 amp services except in very large docks that will accommodate a large vessel.
Scooter 2000XL Ocqueoc, MI
From: hippieforever3
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2009 1:45 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Elec. sys. remodel - suggestions wanted 1984FC35SB
I'm in the early stages of a complete remodel on my 84FC35SB and
first up is the electrical system.
One thing that would make the design simpler is to disconnect the two
30A runs and only use the 50A connector with a "cheater" adapter on
the 50A cord.
If I understand this correctly the only downside to this is if you
hook up to shore power you will be limited to 30A MAX and never have
the infrequently used option of connecting to two separate 30A
supplies. Is this the ONLY downside? Have I over looked something?
I'm also convinced I'm going to need a separate house battery bank
for the type of travel we anticipate so I will have one alternator,
one shore hook-up and one generator (currently being refurbed for
reliable operation). If anyone have done a similar remodel, I would
absolutely love for you to share what you did. When I look at the
options I'm overwhelmed by the choices and I've got to solidify this
design soon.
Regards,
GPSGary
1984FC35SB
Gary,
On my first bird, a '78FC33, the previous owner had eliminated the
30 amp connectors. I used a 30 to 50 amp shore line at 30 amp sites,
and a 50 amp shore line at 50 amp sites. I never found a use for the
two 30 amp situation in modern campgrounds. I am sure you could
buy/build an adapter for your 50 amp connection to accomodate two 30
amp sources. I see no practical reason for the two 30 amp connectors
other than if you hapen to have the two 30 amp shore lines and want
to store them.
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Al Scudder"
wrote:
>
> Coming from my Boating side of my life to RV'in I can tell you that
in Boating and at all boating supply houses you can take 2 30 amp
outlet to a cheater box to make the 50 amp trip. The box is $$ but
they do work. I would not be able to tell you of the reliability when
you have a oven micro, charger, hot water heater all come on a the
same time for the most part boat marina only have 30 amp services
except in very large docks that will accommodate a large vessel.
>
> Scooter 2000XL Ocqueoc, MI
>
> From: hippieforever3
> Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2009 1:45 PM
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Elec. sys. remodel - suggestions wanted
1984FC35SB
>
> I'm in the early stages of a complete remodel on my 84FC35SB and
> first up is the electrical system.
>
> One thing that would make the design simpler is to disconnect the
two
> 30A runs and only use the 50A connector with a "cheater" adapter
on
> the 50A cord.
>
> If I understand this correctly the only downside to this is if you
> hook up to shore power you will be limited to 30A MAX and never
have
> the infrequently used option of connecting to two separate 30A
> supplies. Is this the ONLY downside? Have I over looked something?
>
> I'm also convinced I'm going to need a separate house battery bank
> for the type of travel we anticipate so I will have one
alternator,
> one shore hook-up and one generator (currently being refurbed for
> reliable operation). If anyone have done a similar remodel, I
would
> absolutely love for you to share what you did. When I look at the
> options I'm overwhelmed by the choices and I've got to solidify
this
> design soon.
>
> Regards,
> GPSGary
> 1984FC35SB
>
Also having a boat, at least on mine, the 50 amp service is 220. By using 2
30amp cords to a
cheater box I get 220v 30amp. I don't THINK the 50 amp service on a Bird is 220
so your 2
30amp cords would give you 60amps of 120v potential. What I'm not sure about on
the bus
is if there are two legs, each 120v. Everything would be 120 on the AC side,
just that the
load would be split and the amount of current (amps) available to run anything
would be
dependent on whether you had 50, 30, or even, 15 amps coming into the bus.
Someone help
me out on this, 'cause I"m just guessing here.
Yes & No 110 or 220
220 can be used, but it is really 2 separate legs 110 Volts each.
There are no 220V appliances on a Bird.
Bill 88 FC Michigan
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "jkenn48105"
wrote:
>
> Also having a boat, at least on mine, the 50 amp service is 220.
By using 2 30amp cords to a
> cheater box I get 220v 30amp. I don't THINK the 50 amp service on
a Bird is 220 so your 2
> 30amp cords would give you 60amps of 120v potential. What I'm not
sure about on the bus
> is if there are two legs, each 120v. Everything would be 120 on
the AC side, just that the
> load would be split and the amount of current (amps) available to
run anything would be
> dependent on whether you had 50, 30, or even, 15 amps coming into
the bus. Someone help
> me out on this, 'cause I"m just guessing here.
>
The '09 that was out here in Quartzsite yesterday had a 220v dryer.
The 50-amp service on an RV is 220, but is normally used as two 110 legs. That
means 50-amps is really 100 amps at 110v, so it will always be better than two
separate 30-amp 110 circuits.
Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
My location:
http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1
On 1/21/2009 at 5:49 PM pattypape wrote:
>Yes & No 110 or 220
>
>220 can be used, but it is really 2 separate legs 110 Volts each.
>There are no 220V appliances on a Bird.
>
>Bill 88 FC Michigan
>
>--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "jkenn48105"
>wrote:
>>
>> Also having a boat, at least on mine, the 50 amp service is 220.
>By using 2 30amp cords to a
>> cheater box I get 220v 30amp. I don't THINK the 50 amp service on
>a Bird is 220 so your 2
>> 30amp cords would give you 60amps of 120v potential. What I'm not
>sure about on the bus
>> is if there are two legs, each 120v. Everything would be 120 on
>the AC side, just that the
>> load would be split and the amount of current (amps) available to
>run anything would be
>> dependent on whether you had 50, 30, or even, 15 amps coming into
>the bus. Someone help
>> me out on this, 'cause I"m just guessing here.
>>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
The WL uses 2 legs of 120 volts. No appliances use 220 (240) VAC in a stock WL configuration. (It's one reason the washer/dryer is so slow at drying. The electric cook top (I have) is a little slower to warm up compared to a 220 V appliance, but we quickly adjusted to it.)
The older WLs have both 50 amp cords and dual 30 amp cords since 50 amp service was relatively unusual before the late 1980s at most RV parks. On my most recent trip, more than 2/3 of RV parks we encountered had full 50 amp service available. Some older parks had the 50 amp service limited to a portion of their facility.
When plugged into 50 amps you have 100 amps potential at 120 VAC, split in two legs of 50 amps @ 120. You can overload one leg and blow the breaker if you exceed 50 amps on that leg. BB has wired the distribution panel reasonably well to balance the load between legs. My coach (and I presume most of the newer 'birds) has two voltage gauges showing the voltage on each leg -- plus two amp gauges showing the draw on each leg. Switching devices on or off -- and observing the gauges will assist in power management when using less than a 50 amp service.
Even my "all electric" coach gets along reasonably well (check the gauges and watch what you turn on at the same time) on 30 amp service so long as I'm not using AC. When I needed to install replacement roof ACs, I choose "high efficiency" models that only draw 10 amps instead of the more usual 14-15 amps, yet still provide 13,500 btu cooling. This helps in low-power situations, but I'm still limited to 1 AC when hooked to 30 amp service due to the draw of therefrigerator, AquaHot,and battery charger.
15 amp service is minimal and is only practical to keep battery chargers and refrigerator running (at least on my all-electric unit). Adding any significant load beyond will blow the circuit breaker for the shore source.
The standard Wanderlodge 50 amp cord has 4 pins, 1 for ground, 1 for neutral, and 1 for _each_ leg. A 50/30 amp "dog bone" connector simply provides the 30 amp current to both legs. A "cheater box" will cause the GFI sensor to 'blow' if used on a typical 30/20 amp shore power pedestal, since the neutral will be "unbalanced" when using the cheater box. You can successfully use a cheater box with dual 30 amp service, if it is available. If wanted, it's often necessary to use the 30 amp service from two different power pedestals (this may cause a negative reaction from the RV park landlord) -- but I've done it with permission at a few RV parks, but I don't normally bother with it if I don't need AC (that is, if the weather is cool).
Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42 (For Sale)
El Sobrante CA
"aeonix1@mac.com"
On Jan 21, 2009, at 8:34 AM, jkenn48105 wrote:
Also having a boat, at least on mine, the 50 amp service is 220. By using 2 30amp cords to a
cheater box I get 220v 30amp. I don't THINK the 50 amp service on a Bird is 220 so your 2
30amp cords would give you 60amps of 120v potential. What I'm not sure about on the bus
is if there are two legs, each 120v. Everything would be 120 on the AC side, just that the
load would be split and the amount of current (amps) available to run anything would be
dependent on whether you had 50, 30, or even, 15 amps coming into the bus. Someone help
me out on this, 'cause I"m just guessing here.