A couple of folks have asked so:
Following up on an old thread i have my trans working well now.
took it for a short 100 mile round trip the other day and i think it
is going to be everything i wanted it to be. My main concern was
reducing noise ( my cummins is in the front) it has done that very
well. the engine noise at 65 mph (about 1800 rpm versus previous
2500) is no longer an irritation for me. My next most important
objective was to get a stronger transmission that would handle more
than the 240HP that the at545 is rated for, the 2000 is rated for
300HP. In addition, it looks like my fuel mileage will be at least
10% better, i think i can get 15% increase with a little more
tweaking and a little more experience. i know that the locking
torque converter will give me better engine braking for mountains but
don't know how much better until i get a chance to take a trip
there. I love the way my bus shifts and drives now. very glad i did
this and i highly recommend it.
the mechanical part of the installation was very simple. the 2000 is
only . 75 inch longer than the at 540 series so most likely you will
have enough travel in your slip joint to accomodate it. i have a 3
piece drive shaft with 2 carrier bearings. the carrier bearing
brackets were slotted but i had to lengthen those slots by .75 inch.
I removed the flexplate adapter ring from my at545 and bolted it to
the torque converter of the 2000 and it fit both there and to the
flexplate on the engine with no modification required. Now it was
time to jerk out the old one and bolt in the new one.
my parking brake is on the rear of my transmission. i was able to re-
use it but the fulcrum for the activating lever on the 2000 is built
into the tailshaft at the 3 o,clock position instead of 12 o'clock on
the at540 series. you will need to buy or build some new bracketry.
ordered 2 brackets from bluebird for a total of $28 and was able to
re-use everything else. I also bought a dipstick and tube from blue-
bird ($70)
I built a very simple bracket for my transmission shift cable clamp
out of a short piece of 1.25" square tubing and 1.5" angle. i bolted
that bracket to the 2 frontmost bolts on the pto cover plate. i
bought a clevis from a local hardware store and cut off one side and
put it on the end of the trans shift cable rod and used this to
connect to the existing shift arm on the 2000. This clevis must have
1/4X28 threads (1/4" fine threads)I. had previously tried to just
use the arm off my at545 but found that the connecting hole in the
at545 arm was too far from the fulcrum and kept me from having enough
travel to get both park and 1st gear. I drilled a new hole closer
to the fulcrum but still couldn't get it to adjust correctly, by the
way, if you try to drill the old arm you will have to heat it to
take out the temper before you can drill a hole in it. the 2000 arm
has a shorter throw so less travel is required at the selector to get
all gears selected.
that is about all that is required mechanically for the swap assuming
you buy a used trans that has the correct converter housing. for my
5.9 cummins i needed the sae3 housing and mine came with the sae2
housing even though i was assured twice that it had the sae3. i
bought a used housing and all the gaskets and o-rings i needed from
TKTsales.com for less than $200 and i shopped around until i found an
allison transmission repair specialist that did the labor and checked
their work on a dynamometer for $200. the salvage yard that sold me
the trans agreed to reimburse for changing out the housing, so this
was all at their expense.
Since my trans is a model 2400, it has a parking pawl so i spent an
additional $200 at bluebird on a shift selector with the park
position to take advantage of this feature. My old shift selector
did not have a park position on it.
i contracted with TKTsales.com for a Transmission Control Module with
the appropriate programming and the wiring harnesses for the
transmission and a J1939 data harness to allow engine and
transmission to communicate. Ted at TKTsales also provided loads of
advice (he is an allison dealer). If you have an older non-
electronic engine, you would not need the data harness but you would
probably need to buy a throttle position sensor (about $300) to
communicate with your transmission control module. You will have to
negotiate the price of the control module, programming, wiring
harness, etc. with Ted.
If you have an electronic engine, you will need to get a couple of
parameters changed in the computer for it. In my case, i only
needed to change 2 parameters. Changed top gear ratio from 1.00
to .74 and next gear down to 1.00. I took my ECM off and took it to
a diesel engine shop and they made the parameter changes for $45.
The nearest Cummins dealer said they would charge me a minimum of
$225 to do this.
I paid $1600 for my used transmission delivered and the total cost
of the swap was less than $2800. This was about twice the price of a
differential gear change and much better in my opinion as i still
have my old gears for mountain climbing and i have the overdrive that
will allow me to go 80MPH if i want plus i have a locking torque
converter for better engine braking and i have a trans that is rated
for more power. I also have a very lightly used AT545 with 42K miles
on it that i will eventually sell to recoup some of this
cost. .before i started i asked for quotes on a turnkey swap and was
quoted $12-15K.
dave diamond
What flavor bluebird did you put this on?
Dorn Hetzel
77FC35
Hogansville, GA
On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 11:26 AM, dave diamond <"diamond35c@yahoo.com"> wrote:
A couple of folks have asked so:
Following up on an old thread i have my trans working well now.
took it for a short 100 mile round trip the other day and i think it
is going to be everything i wanted it to be. My main concern was
reducing noise ( my cummins is in the front) it has done that very
well. the engine noise at 65 mph (about 1800 rpm versus previous
2500) is no longer an irritation for me. My next most important
objective was to get a stronger transmission that would handle more
than the 240HP that the at545 is rated for, the 2000 is rated for
300HP. In addition, it looks like my fuel mileage will be at least
10% better, i think i can get 15% increase with a little more
tweaking and a little more experience. i know that the locking
torque converter will give me better engine braking for mountains but
don't know how much better until i get a chance to take a trip
there. I love the way my bus shifts and drives now. very glad i did
this and i highly recommend it.
the mechanical part of the installation was very simple. the 2000 is
only . 75 inch longer than the at 540 series so most likely you will
have enough travel in your slip joint to accomodate it. i have a 3
piece drive shaft with 2 carrier bearings. the carrier bearing
brackets were slotted but i had to lengthen those slots by .75 inch.
I removed the flexplate adapter ring from my at545 and bolted it to
the torque converter of the 2000 and it fit both there and to the
flexplate on the engine with no modification required. Now it was
time to jerk out the old one and bolt in the new one.
my parking brake is on the rear of my transmission. i was able to re-
use it but the fulcrum for the activating lever on the 2000 is built
into the tailshaft at the 3 o,clock position instead of 12 o'clock on
the at540 series. you will need to buy or build some new bracketry.
ordered 2 brackets from bluebird for a total of $28 and was able to
re-use everything else. I also bought a dipstick and tube from blue-
bird ($70)
I built a very simple bracket for my transmission shift cable clamp
out of a short piece of 1.25" square tubing and 1.5" angle. i bolted
that bracket to the 2 frontmost bolts on the pto cover plate. i
bought a clevis from a local hardware store and cut off one side and
put it on the end of the trans shift cable rod and used this to
connect to the existing shift arm on the 2000. This clevis must have
1/4X28 threads (1/4" fine threads)I. had previously tried to just
use the arm off my at545 but found that the connecting hole in the
at545 arm was too far from the fulcrum and kept me from having enough
travel to get both park and 1st gear. I drilled a new hole closer
to the fulcrum but still couldn't get it to adjust correctly, by the
way, if you try to drill the old arm you will have to heat it to
take out the temper before you can drill a hole in it. the 2000 arm
has a shorter throw so less travel is required at the selector to get
all gears selected.
that is about all that is required mechanically for the swap assuming
you buy a used trans that has the correct converter housing. for my
5.9 cummins i needed the sae3 housing and mine came with the sae2
housing even though i was assured twice that it had the sae3. i
bought a used housing and all the gaskets and o-rings i needed from
TKTsales.com for less than $200 and i shopped around until i found an
allison transmission repair specialist that did the labor and checked
their work on a dynamometer for $200. the salvage yard that sold me
the trans agreed to reimburse for changing out the housing, so this
was all at their expense.
Since my trans is a model 2400, it has a parking pawl so i spent an
additional $200 at bluebird on a shift selector with the park
position to take advantage of this feature. My old shift selector
did not have a park position on it.
i contracted with TKTsales.com for a Transmission Control Module with
the appropriate programming and the wiring harnesses for the
transmission and a J1939 data harness to allow engine and
transmission to communicate. Ted at TKTsales also provided loads of
advice (he is an allison dealer). If you have an older non-
electronic engine, you would not need the data harness but you would
probably need to buy a throttle position sensor (about $300) to
communicate with your transmission control module. You will have to
negotiate the price of the control module, programming, wiring
harness, etc. with Ted.
If you have an electronic engine, you will need to get a couple of
parameters changed in the computer for it. In my case, i only
needed to change 2 parameters. Changed top gear ratio from 1.00
to .74 and next gear down to 1.00. I took my ECM off and took it to
a diesel engine shop and they made the parameter changes for $45.
The nearest Cummins dealer said they would charge me a minimum of
$225 to do this.
I paid $1600 for my used transmission delivered and the total cost
of the swap was less than $2800. This was about twice the price of a
differential gear change and much better in my opinion as i still
have my old gears for mountain climbing and i have the overdrive that
will allow me to go 80MPH if i want plus i have a locking torque
converter for better engine braking and i have a trans that is rated
for more power. I also have a very lightly used AT545 with 42K miles
on it that i will eventually sell to recoup some of this
cost. .before i started i asked for quotes on a turnkey swap and was
quoted $12-15K.
dave diamond
Great information and appreciated very much. More detail on your project bird would be good, as in year and configuration.
MH
----- Original Message -----
From: "dhetzel@gmail.com"
To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Allison 2000 for AT545 swap
What flavor bluebird did you put this on?
Dorn Hetzel
77FC35
Hogansville, GA
On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 11:26 AM, dave diamond <"diamond35c@yahoo.com"> wrote:
A couple of folks have asked so:
Following up on an old thread i have my trans working well now.
took it for a short 100 mile round trip the other day and i think it
is going to be everything i wanted it to be. My main concern was
reducing noise ( my cummins is in the front) it has done that very
well. the engine noise at 65 mph (about 1800 rpm versus previous
2500) is no longer an irritation for me. My next most important
objective was to get a stronger transmission that would handle more
than the 240HP that the at545 is rated for, the 2000 is rated for
300HP. In addition, it looks like my fuel mileage will be at least
10% better, i think i can get 15% increase with a little more
tweaking and a little more experience. i know that the locking
torque converter will give me better engine braking for mountains but
don't know how much better until i get a chance to take a trip
there. I love the way my bus shifts and drives now. very glad i did
this and i highly recommend it.
the mechanical part of the installation was very simple. the 2000 is
only . 75 inch longer than the at 540 series so most likely you will
have enough travel in your slip joint to accomodate it. i have a 3
piece drive shaft with 2 carrier bearings. the carrier bearing
brackets were slotted but i had to lengthen those slots by .75 inch.
I removed the flexplate adapter ring from my at545 and bolted it to
the torque converter of the 2000 and it fit both there and to the
flexplate on the engine with no modification required. Now it was
time to jerk out the old one and bolt in the new one.
my parking brake is on the rear of my transmission. i was able to re-
use it but the fulcrum for the activating lever on the 2000 is built
into the tailshaft at the 3 o,clock position instead of 12 o'clock on
the at540 series. you will need to buy or build some new bracketry.
ordered 2 brackets from bluebird for a total of $28 and was able to
re-use everything else. I also bought a dipstick and tube from blue-
bird ($70)
I built a very simple bracket for my transmission shift cable clamp
out of a short piece of 1.25" square tubing and 1.5" angle. i bolted
that bracket to the 2 frontmost bolts on the pto cover plate. i
bought a clevis from a local hardware store and cut off one side and
put it on the end of the trans shift cable rod and used this to
connect to the existing shift arm on the 2000. This clevis must have
1/4X28 threads (1/4" fine threads)I. had previously tried to just
use the arm off my at545 but found that the connecting hole in the
at545 arm was too far from the fulcrum and kept me from having enough
travel to get both park and 1st gear. I drilled a new hole closer
to the fulcrum but still couldn't get it to adjust correctly, by the
way, if you try to drill the old arm you will have to heat it to
take out the temper before you can drill a hole in it. the 2000 arm
has a shorter throw so less travel is required at the selector to get
all gears selected.
that is about all that is required mechanically for the swap assuming
you buy a used trans that has the correct converter housing. for my
5.9 cummins i needed the sae3 housing and mine came with the sae2
housing even though i was assured twice that it had the sae3. i
bought a used housing and all the gaskets and o-rings i needed from
TKTsales.com for less than $200 and i shopped around until i found an
allison transmission repair specialist that did the labor and checked
their work on a dynamometer for $200. the salvage yard that sold me
the trans agreed to reimburse for changing out the housing, so this
was all at their expense.
Since my trans is a model 2400, it has a parking pawl so i spent an
additional $200 at bluebird on a shift selector with the park
position to take advantage of this feature. My old shift selector
did not have a park position on it.
i contracted with TKTsales.com for a Transmission Control Module with
the appropriate programming and the wiring harnesses for the
transmission and a J1939 data harness to allow engine and
transmission to communicate. Ted at TKTsales also provided loads of
advice (he is an allison dealer). If you have an older non-
electronic engine, you would not need the data harness but you would
probably need to buy a throttle position sensor (about $300) to
communicate with your transmission control module. You will have to
negotiate the price of the control module, programming, wiring
harness, etc. with Ted.
If you have an electronic engine, you will need to get a couple of
parameters changed in the computer for it. In my case, i only
needed to change 2 parameters. Changed top gear ratio from 1.00
to .74 and next gear down to 1.00. I took my ECM off and took it to
a diesel engine shop and they made the parameter changes for $45.
The nearest Cummins dealer said they would charge me a minimum of
$225 to do this.
I paid $1600 for my used transmission delivered and the total cost
of the swap was less than $2800. This was about twice the price of a
differential gear change and much better in my opinion as i still
have my old gears for mountain climbing and i have the overdrive that
will allow me to go 80MPH if i want plus i have a locking torque
converter for better engine braking and i have a trans that is rated
for more power. I also have a very lightly used AT545 with 42K miles
on it that i will eventually sell to recoup some of this
cost. .before i started i asked for quotes on a turnkey swap and was
quoted $12-15K.
dave diamond
Mine is not a wanderlodge. I have a 30' bluebird front engined
schoolbus shell bought new and immediately converted to a motorhome
by a bus converter. It is a 1999 model with the Cummins ISB 5.9
engine. I bought it from the original owner summer before last. it
had only 18K miles on it when i got it.
dave diamond
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Dorn Hetzel"
wrote:
>
> What flavor bluebird did you put this on?
>
> Dorn Hetzel
> 77FC35
> Hogansville, GA
>
> On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 11:26 AM, dave diamond
wrote:
>
> > A couple of folks have asked so:
> > Following up on an old thread i have my trans working well now.
> > took it for a short 100 mile round trip the other day and i think
it
> > is going to be everything i wanted it to be. My main concern was
> > reducing noise ( my cummins is in the front) it has done that very
> > well. the engine noise at 65 mph (about 1800 rpm versus previous
> > 2500) is no longer an irritation for me. My next most important
> > objective was to get a stronger transmission that would handle
more
> > than the 240HP that the at545 is rated for, the 2000 is rated for
> > 300HP. In addition, it looks like my fuel mileage will be at least
> > 10% better, i think i can get 15% increase with a little more
> > tweaking and a little more experience. i know that the locking
> > torque converter will give me better engine braking for mountains
but
> > don't know how much better until i get a chance to take a trip
> > there. I love the way my bus shifts and drives now. very glad i
did
> > this and i highly recommend it.
> >
> > the mechanical part of the installation was very simple. the 2000
is
> > only . 75 inch longer than the at 540 series so most likely you
will
> > have enough travel in your slip joint to accomodate it. i have a 3
> > piece drive shaft with 2 carrier bearings. the carrier bearing
> > brackets were slotted but i had to lengthen those slots by .75
inch.
> > I removed the flexplate adapter ring from my at545 and bolted it
to
> > the torque converter of the 2000 and it fit both there and to the
> > flexplate on the engine with no modification required. Now it was
> > time to jerk out the old one and bolt in the new one.
> >
> > my parking brake is on the rear of my transmission. i was able to
re-
> > use it but the fulcrum for the activating lever on the 2000 is
built
> > into the tailshaft at the 3 o,clock position instead of 12
o'clock on
> > the at540 series. you will need to buy or build some new
bracketry.
> > ordered 2 brackets from bluebird for a total of $28 and was able
to
> > re-use everything else. I also bought a dipstick and tube from
blue-
> > bird ($70)
> >
> > I built a very simple bracket for my transmission shift cable
clamp
> > out of a short piece of 1.25" square tubing and 1.5" angle. i
bolted
> > that bracket to the 2 frontmost bolts on the pto cover plate. i
> > bought a clevis from a local hardware store and cut off one side
and
> > put it on the end of the trans shift cable rod and used this to
> > connect to the existing shift arm on the 2000. This clevis must
have
> > 1/4X28 threads (1/4" fine threads)I. had previously tried to just
> > use the arm off my at545 but found that the connecting hole in the
> > at545 arm was too far from the fulcrum and kept me from having
enough
> > travel to get both park and 1st gear. I drilled a new hole closer
> > to the fulcrum but still couldn't get it to adjust correctly, by
the
> > way, if you try to drill the old arm you will have to heat it to
> > take out the temper before you can drill a hole in it. the 2000
arm
> > has a shorter throw so less travel is required at the selector to
get
> > all gears selected.
> >
> > that is about all that is required mechanically for the swap
assuming
> > you buy a used trans that has the correct converter housing. for
my
> > 5.9 cummins i needed the sae3 housing and mine came with the sae2
> > housing even though i was assured twice that it had the sae3. i
> > bought a used housing and all the gaskets and o-rings i needed
from
> > TKTsales.com for less than $200 and i shopped around until i
found an
> > allison transmission repair specialist that did the labor and
checked
> > their work on a dynamometer for $200. the salvage yard that sold
me
> > the trans agreed to reimburse for changing out the housing, so
this
> > was all at their expense.
> >
> > Since my trans is a model 2400, it has a parking pawl so i spent
an
> > additional $200 at bluebird on a shift selector with the park
> > position to take advantage of this feature. My old shift selector
> > did not have a park position on it.
> >
> > i contracted with TKTsales.com for a Transmission Control Module
with
> > the appropriate programming and the wiring harnesses for the
> > transmission and a J1939 data harness to allow engine and
> > transmission to communicate. Ted at TKTsales also provided loads
of
> > advice (he is an allison dealer). If you have an older non-
> > electronic engine, you would not need the data harness but you
would
> > probably need to buy a throttle position sensor (about $300) to
> > communicate with your transmission control module. You will have
to
> > negotiate the price of the control module, programming, wiring
> > harness, etc. with Ted.
> >
> > If you have an electronic engine, you will need to get a couple of
> > parameters changed in the computer for it. In my case, i only
> > needed to change 2 parameters. Changed top gear ratio from 1.00
> > to .74 and next gear down to 1.00. I took my ECM off and took it
to
> > a diesel engine shop and they made the parameter changes for $45.
> > The nearest Cummins dealer said they would charge me a minimum of
> > $225 to do this.
> >
> > I paid $1600 for my used transmission delivered and the total cost
> > of the swap was less than $2800. This was about twice the price
of a
> > differential gear change and much better in my opinion as i still
> > have my old gears for mountain climbing and i have the overdrive
that
> > will allow me to go 80MPH if i want plus i have a locking torque
> > converter for better engine braking and i have a trans that is
rated
> > for more power. I also have a very lightly used AT545 with 42K
miles
> > on it that i will eventually sell to recoup some of this
> > cost. .before i started i asked for quotes on a turnkey swap and
was
> > quoted $12-15K.
> > dave diamond
> >
> >
> >
>
What does your rig weigh?
I'm surprised that motor would be happy with a step overdrive that you have.
Pete
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "dave diamond"
Mine is not a wanderlodge. I have a 30' bluebird front engined
schoolbus shell bought new and immediately converted to a motorhome
by a bus converter. It is a 1999 model with the Cummins ISB 5.9
engine. I bought it from the original owner summer before last. it
had only 18K miles on it when i got it.
dave diamond
--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", "Dorn Hetzel" >
wrote:
>
> What flavor bluebird did you put this on?
>
> Dorn Hetzel
> 77FC35
> Hogansville, GA
>
> On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 11:26 AM, dave diamond ...>
wrote:
>
> > A couple of folks have asked so:
> > Following up on an old thread i have my trans working well now.
> > took it for a short 100 mile round trip the other day and i think
it
> > is going to be everything i wanted it to be. My main concern was
> > reducing noise ( my cummins is in the front) it has done that very
> > well. the engine noise at 65 mph (about 1800 rpm versus previous
> > 2500) is no longer an irritation for me. My next most important
> > objective was to get a stronger transmission that would handle
more
> > than the 240HP that the at545 is rated for, the 2000 is rated for
> > 300HP. In addition, it looks like my fuel mileage will be at least
> > 10% better, i think i can get 15% increase with a little more
> > tweaking and a little more experience. i know that the locking
> > torque converter will give me better engine braking for mountains
but
> > don't know how much better until i get a chance to take a trip
> > there. I love the way my bus shifts and drives now. very glad i
did
> > this and i highly recommend it.
> >
> > the mechanical pa
rt of the installation was very simple. the 2000
is
> > only . 75 inch longer than the at 540 series so most likely you
will
> > have enough travel in your slip joint to accomodate it. i have a 3
> > piece drive shaft with 2 carrier bearings. the carrier bearing
> > brackets were slotted but i had to lengthen those slots by .75
inch.
> > I removed the flexplate adapter ring from my at545 and bolted it
to
> > the torque converter of the 2000 and it fit both there and to the
> > flexplate on the engine with no modification required. Now it was
> > time to jerk out the old one and bolt in the new one.
> >
> > my parking brake is on the rear of my transmission. i was able to
re-
> > use it but the fulcrum for the activating lever on the 2000 is
built
> > into the tailshaft at the 3 o,clock position instead of 12
o'clock on
> > the at540 series
. you will need to buy or build some new
bracketry.
> > ordered 2 brackets from bluebird for a total of $28 and was able
to
> > re-use everything else. I also bought a dipstick and tube from
blue-
> > bird ($70)
> >
> > I built a very simple bracket for my transmission shift cable
clamp
> > out of a short piece of 1.25" square tubing and 1.5" angle. i
bolted
> > that bracket to the 2 frontmost bolts on the pto cover plate. i
> > bought a clevis from a local hardware store and cut off one side
and
> > put it on the end of the trans shift cable rod and used this to
> > connect to the existing shift arm on the 2000. This clevis must
have
> > 1/4X28 threads (1/4" fine threads)I. had previously tried to just
> > use the arm off my at545 but found that the connecting hole in the
> > at545 arm was too far from the fulcrum and kept me from having
enough
> > travel to get both park and 1st gear. I drilled a new hole closer
> > to the fulcrum but still couldn't get it to adjust correctly, by
the
> > way, if you try to drill the old arm you will have to heat it to
> > take out the temper before you can drill a hole in it. the 2000
arm
> > has a shorter throw so less travel is required at the selector to
get
> > all gears selected.
> >
> > that is about all that is required mechanically for the swap
assuming
> > you buy a used trans that has the correct converter housing. for
my
> > 5.9 cummins i needed the sae3 housing and mine came with the sae2
> > housing even though i was assured twice that it had the sae3. i
> > bought a used housing and all the gaskets and o-rings i needed
from
> > TKTsales.com for less than $200 and i shopped around until i
found an
> > allison tra
nsmission repair specialist that did the labor and
checked
> > their work on a dynamometer for $200. the salvage yard that sold
me
> > the trans agreed to reimburse for changing out the housing, so
this
> > was all at their expense.
> >
> > Since my trans is a model 2400, it has a parking pawl so i spent
an
> > additional $200 at bluebird on a shift selector with the park
> > position to take advantage of this feature. My old shift selector
> > did not have a park position on it.
> >
> > i contracted with TKTsales.com for a Transmission Control Module
with
> > the appropriate programming and the wiring harnesses for the
> > transmission and a J1939 data harness to allow engine and
> > transmission to communicate. Ted at TKTsales also provided loads
of
> > advice (he is an allison dealer). If you have an older non-
> > electro
nic engine, you would not need the data harness but you
would
> > probably need to buy a throttle position sensor (about $300) to
> > communicate with your transmission control module. You will have
to
> > negotiate the price of the control module, programming, wiring
> > harness, etc. with Ted.
> >
> > If you have an electronic engine, you will need to get a couple of
> > parameters changed in the computer for it. In my case, i only
> > needed to change 2 parameters. Changed top gear ratio from 1.00
> > to .74 and next gear down to 1.00. I took my ECM off and took it
to
> > a diesel engine shop and they made the parameter changes for $45.
> > The nearest Cummins dealer said they would charge me a minimum of
> > $225 to do this.
> >
> > I paid $1600 for my used transmission delivered and the total cost
> > of the swap was less than $2800
. This was about twice the price
of a
> > differential gear change and much better in my opinion as i still
> > have my old gears for mountain climbing and i have the overdrive
that
> > will allow me to go 80MPH if i want plus i have a locking torque
> > converter for better engine braking and i have a trans that is
rated
> > for more power. I also have a very lightly used AT545 with 42K
miles
> > on it that i will eventually sell to recoup some of this
> > cost. .before i started i asked for quotes on a turnkey swap and
was
> > quoted $12-15K.
> > dave diamond
> >
> >
> >
>
i only weigh 20k and i was geared at 4.44 so the std 190HP 5.9 was ok
but i have added a TST powermax fuel box which allows me to adjust it
on the fly to upwards of 300 HP, the reason i wanted the stronger
tranny.
dave diamond
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, PM7088@... wrote:
>
> What does your rig weigh?
> I'm surprised that motor would be happy with a step overdrive that
you have.
>
> Pete
>
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "dave diamond"
> Mine is not a wanderlodge. I have a 30' bluebird front engined
> schoolbus shell bought new and immediately converted to a motorhome
> by a bus converter. It is a 1999 model with the Cummins ISB 5.9
> engine. I bought it from the original owner summer before last. it
> had only 18K miles on it when i got it.
> dave diamond
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Dorn Hetzel"
> wrote:
> >
> > What flavor bluebird did you put this on?
> >
> > Dorn Hetzel
> > 77FC35
> > Hogansville, GA
> >
> > On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 11:26 AM, dave diamond
> wrote:
> >
> > > A couple of folks have asked so:
> > > Following up on an old thread i have my trans working well now.
> > > took it for a short 100 mile round trip the other day and i
think
> it
> > > is going to be everything i wanted it to be. My main concern was
> > > reducing noise ( my cummins is in the front) it has done that
very
> > > well. the engine noise at 65 mph (about 1800 rpm versus previous
> > > 2500) is no longer an irritation for me. My next most important
> > > objective was to get a stronger transmission that would handle
> more
> > > than the 240HP that the at545 is rated for, the 2000 is rated
for
> > > 300HP. In addition, it looks like my fuel mileage will be at
least
> > > 10% better, i think i can get 15% increase with a little more
> > > tweaking and a little more experience. i know that the locking
> > > torque converter will give me better engine braking for
mountains
> but
> > > don't know how much better until i get a chance to take a trip
> > > there. I love the way my bus shifts and drives now. very glad i
> did
> > > this and i highly recommend it.
> > >
> > > the mechanical part of the installation was very simple. the
2000
> is
> > > only . 75 inch longer than the at 540 series so most likely you
> will
> > > have enough travel in your slip joint to accomodate it. i have
a 3
> > > piece drive shaft with 2 carrier bearings. the carrier bearing
> > > brackets were slotted but i had to lengthen those slots by .75
> inch.
> > > I removed the flexplate adapter ring from my at545 and bolted
it
> to
> > > the torque converter of the 2000 and it fit both there and to
the
> > > flexplate on the engine with no modification required. Now it
was
> > > time to jerk out the old one and bolt in the new one.
> > >
> > > my parking brake is on the rear of my transmission. i was able
to
> re-
> > > use it but the fulcrum for the activating lever on the 2000 is
> built
> > > into the tailshaft at the 3 o,clock position instead of 12
> o'clock on
> > > the at540 series. you will need to buy or build some new
> bracketry.
> > > ordered 2 brackets from bluebird for a total of $28 and was
able
> to
> > > re-use everything else. I also bought a dipstick and tube from
> blue-
> > > bird ($70)
> > >
> > > I built a very simple bracket for my transmission shift cable
> clamp
> > > out of a short piece of 1.25" square tubing and 1.5" angle. i
> bolted
> > > that bracket to the 2 frontmost bolts on the pto cover plate. i
> > > bought a clevis from a local hardware store and cut off one
side
> and
> > > put it on the end of the trans shift cable rod and used this to
> > > connect to the existing shift arm on the 2000. This clevis must
> have
> > > 1/4X28 threads (1/4" fine threads)I. had previously tried to
just
> > > use the arm off my at545 but found that the connecting hole in
the
> > > at545 arm was too far from the fulcrum and kept me from having
> enough
> > > travel to get both park and 1st gear. I drilled a new hole
closer
> > > to the fulcrum but still couldn't get it to adjust correctly,
by
> the
> > > way, if you try to drill the old arm you will have to heat it to
> > > take out the temper before you can drill a hole in it. the 2000
> arm
> > > has a shorter throw so less travel is required at the selector
to
> get
> > > all gears selected.
> > >
> > > that is about all that is required mechanically for the swap
> assuming
> > > you buy a used trans that has the correct converter housing.
for
> my
> > > 5.9 cummins i needed the sae3 housing and mine came with the
sae2
> > > housing even though i was assured twice that it had the sae3. i
> > > bought a used housing and all the gaskets and o-rings i needed
> from
> > > TKTsales.com for less than $200 and i shopped around until i
> found an
> > > allison transmission repair specialist that did the labor and
> checked
> > > their work on a dynamometer for $200. the salvage yard that
sold
> me
> > > the trans agreed to reimburse for changing out the housing, so
> this
> > > was all at their expense.
> > >
> > > Since my trans is a model 2400, it has a parking pawl so i
spent
> an
> > > additional $200 at bluebird on a shift selector with the park
> > > position to take advantage of this feature. My old shift
selector
> > > did not have a park position on it.
> > >
> > > i contracted with TKTsales.com for a Transmission Control
Module
> with
> > > the appropriate programming and the wiring harnesses for the
> > > transmission and a J1939 data harness to allow engine and
> > > transmission to communicate. Ted at TKTsales also provided
loads
> of
> > > advice (he is an allison dealer). If you have an older non-
> > > electronic engine, you would not need the data harness but you
> would
> > > probably need to buy a throttle position sensor (about $300) to
> > > communicate with your transmission control module. You will
have
> to
> > > negotiate the price of the control module, programming, wiring
> > > harness, etc. with Ted.
> > >
> > > If you have an electronic engine, you will need to get a couple
of
> > > parameters changed in the computer for it. In my case, i only
> > > needed to change 2 parameters. Changed top gear ratio from 1.00
> > > to .74 and next gear down to 1.00. I took my ECM off and took
it
> to
> > > a diesel engine shop and they made the parameter changes for
$45.
> > > The nearest Cummins dealer said they would charge me a minimum
of
> > > $225 to do this.
> > >
> > > I paid $1600 for my used transmission delivered and the total
cost
> > > of the swap was less than $2800. This was about twice the price
> of a
> > > differential gear change and much better in my opinion as i
still
> > > have my old gears for mountain climbing and i have the
overdrive
> that
> > > will allow me to go 80MPH if i want plus i have a locking torque
> > > converter for better engine braking and i have a trans that is
> rated
> > > for more power. I also have a very lightly used AT545 with 42K
> miles
> > > on it that i will eventually sell to recoup some of this
> > > cost. .before i started i asked for quotes on a turnkey swap
and
> was
> > > quoted $12-15K.
> > > dave diamond
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
I thought from your origional post that you reduced the rpm and
noise from 2500r to the now 1800r. is it that you just reduced the
Cummins r's at highway speed with a tran swap? Or did you kill the
Cat?
GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "dave diamond"
wrote:
>
> Mine is not a wanderlodge. I have a 30' bluebird front engined
> schoolbus shell bought new and immediately converted to a
motorhome
> by a bus converter. It is a 1999 model with the Cummins ISB 5.9
> engine. I bought it from the original owner summer before last.
it
> had only 18K miles on it when i got it.
> dave diamond
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Dorn Hetzel"
> wrote:
> >
> > What flavor bluebird did you put this on?
> >
> > Dorn Hetzel
> > 77FC35
> > Hogansville, GA
> >
> > On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 11:26 AM, dave diamond
> wrote:
> >
> > > A couple of folks have asked so:
> > > Following up on an old thread i have my trans working well now.
> > > took it for a short 100 mile round trip the other day and i
think
> it
> > > is going to be everything i wanted it to be. My main concern
was
> > > reducing noise ( my cummins is in the front) it has done that
very
> > > well. the engine noise at 65 mph (about 1800 rpm versus
previous
> > > 2500) is no longer an irritation for me. My next most important
> > > objective was to get a stronger transmission that would handle
> more
> > > than the 240HP that the at545 is rated for, the 2000 is rated
for
> > > 300HP. In addition, it looks like my fuel mileage will be at
least
> > > 10% better, i think i can get 15% increase with a little more
> > > tweaking and a little more experience. i know that the locking
> > > torque converter will give me better engine braking for
mountains
> but
> > > don't know how much better until i get a chance to take a trip
> > > there. I love the way my bus shifts and drives now. very glad
i
> did
> > > this and i highly recommend it.
> > >
> > > the mechanical part of the installation was very simple. the
2000
> is
> > > only . 75 inch longer than the at 540 series so most likely
you
> will
> > > have enough travel in your slip joint to accomodate it. i have
a 3
> > > piece drive shaft with 2 carrier bearings. the carrier bearing
> > > brackets were slotted but i had to lengthen those slots by .75
> inch.
> > > I removed the flexplate adapter ring from my at545 and bolted
it
> to
> > > the torque converter of the 2000 and it fit both there and to
the
> > > flexplate on the engine with no modification required. Now it
was
> > > time to jerk out the old one and bolt in the new one.
> > >
> > > my parking brake is on the rear of my transmission. i was able
to
> re-
> > > use it but the fulcrum for the activating lever on the 2000 is
> built
> > > into the tailshaft at the 3 o,clock position instead of 12
> o'clock on
> > > the at540 series. you will need to buy or build some new
> bracketry.
> > > ordered 2 brackets from bluebird for a total of $28 and was
able
> to
> > > re-use everything else. I also bought a dipstick and tube from
> blue-
> > > bird ($70)
> > >
> > > I built a very simple bracket for my transmission shift cable
> clamp
> > > out of a short piece of 1.25" square tubing and 1.5" angle. i
> bolted
> > > that bracket to the 2 frontmost bolts on the pto cover plate. i
> > > bought a clevis from a local hardware store and cut off one
side
> and
> > > put it on the end of the trans shift cable rod and used this to
> > > connect to the existing shift arm on the 2000. This clevis
must
> have
> > > 1/4X28 threads (1/4" fine threads)I. had previously tried to
just
> > > use the arm off my at545 but found that the connecting hole in
the
> > > at545 arm was too far from the fulcrum and kept me from having
> enough
> > > travel to get both park and 1st gear. I drilled a new hole
closer
> > > to the fulcrum but still couldn't get it to adjust correctly,
by
> the
> > > way, if you try to drill the old arm you will have to heat it
to
> > > take out the temper before you can drill a hole in it. the
2000
> arm
> > > has a shorter throw so less travel is required at the selector
to
> get
> > > all gears selected.
> > >
> > > that is about all that is required mechanically for the swap
> assuming
> > > you buy a used trans that has the correct converter housing.
for
> my
> > > 5.9 cummins i needed the sae3 housing and mine came with the
sae2
> > > housing even though i was assured twice that it had the sae3. i
> > > bought a used housing and all the gaskets and o-rings i needed
> from
> > > TKTsales.com for less than $200 and i shopped around until i
> found an
> > > allison transmission repair specialist that did the labor and
> checked
> > > their work on a dynamometer for $200. the salvage yard that
sold
> me
> > > the trans agreed to reimburse for changing out the housing, so
> this
> > > was all at their expense.
> > >
> > > Since my trans is a model 2400, it has a parking pawl so i
spent
> an
> > > additional $200 at bluebird on a shift selector with the park
> > > position to take advantage of this feature. My old shift
selector
> > > did not have a park position on it.
> > >
> > > i contracted with TKTsales.com for a Transmission Control
Module
> with
> > > the appropriate programming and the wiring harnesses for the
> > > transmission and a J1939 data harness to allow engine and
> > > transmission to communicate. Ted at TKTsales also provided
loads
> of
> > > advice (he is an allison dealer). If you have an older non-
> > > electronic engine, you would not need the data harness but you
> would
> > > probably need to buy a throttle position sensor (about $300) to
> > > communicate with your transmission control module. You will
have
> to
> > > negotiate the price of the control module, programming, wiring
> > > harness, etc. with Ted.
> > >
> > > If you have an electronic engine, you will need to get a
couple of
> > > parameters changed in the computer for it. In my case, i only
> > > needed to change 2 parameters. Changed top gear ratio from 1.00
> > > to .74 and next gear down to 1.00. I took my ECM off and took
it
> to
> > > a diesel engine shop and they made the parameter changes for
$45.
> > > The nearest Cummins dealer said they would charge me a minimum
of
> > > $225 to do this.
> > >
> > > I paid $1600 for my used transmission delivered and the total
cost
> > > of the swap was less than $2800. This was about twice the
price
> of a
> > > differential gear change and much better in my opinion as i
still
> > > have my old gears for mountain climbing and i have the
overdrive
> that
> > > will allow me to go 80MPH if i want plus i have a locking
torque
> > > converter for better engine braking and i have a trans that is
> rated
> > > for more power. I also have a very lightly used AT545 with 42K
> miles
> > > on it that i will eventually sell to recoup some of this
> > > cost. .before i started i asked for quotes on a turnkey swap
and
> was
> > > quoted $12-15K.
> > > dave diamond
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>