Wanderlodge Gurus - The Member Funded Wanderlodge Forum

We occasionally lose hot water pressure at all faucets,
The cold water lines retain pressure.
This occurs when on City water hook-up or on Fresh water tank pump.
This is intermittent and eventually hot water pressure returns.

Is there a check valve in the hot water line???
Or is there a hot water mixing fitting to help lower the very hot water
temperature created, when on coolant motor-aid hot water???

Any suggestions are welcome.

Bill 88 FC Michigan

Maybe it is air in the HWtank but then you would get air out of the
faucet??? unless you have a pressure blatter tank?
GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandca

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "pattypape"
wrote:
>
> We occasionally lose hot water pressure at all faucets,
> The cold water lines retain pressure.
> This occurs when on City water hook-up or on Fresh water tank pump.
> This is intermittent and eventually hot water pressure returns.
>
> Is there a check valve in the hot water line???
> Or is there a hot water mixing fitting to help lower the very hot
water
> temperature created, when on coolant motor-aid hot water???
>
> Any suggestions are welcome.
>
> Bill 88 FC Michigan
>

Sounds like there is definitely air in the lines somewhere. A leak
some where? An air pocket?

The only water mixer valves are the faucets themselves. No check
valves in the water lines after the pump that I remember either.

Here's what I experienced last year. When I changed out my shower
valve, I shut the pump off, drained the sink faucets to relieve
pressure, and removed the valve. When I got back from the store and
inserted the new mixer valve and turned the pump on, I got cold, but
no hot. Neither on pump or shore water. Got water at the sinks
though! Ended up purging all the system lines by opening the outside
faucet (low point) and then opening each sink and then the shower.
Very quickly got hot water again at the shower. Shut all faucets off,
no problems since then. Seems to me that I created an air pocket when
I purged the system lines and it cleared when I opened all valves in
sequence. Seems weird, but it worked for me. If you haven't worked
on plumbing, I suspect a leak somewhere introducing air into the system.

FWIW,

Mike Bulriss
1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
San Antonio, TX

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
wrote:
>
> Maybe it is air in the HWtank but then you would get air out of the
> faucet??? unless you have a pressure blatter tank?
> GregoryO'Connor
> 94ptRomolandca
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "pattypape"
> wrote:
> >
> > We occasionally lose hot water pressure at all faucets,
> > The cold water lines retain pressure.
> > This occurs when on City water hook-up or on Fresh water tank pump.
> > This is intermittent and eventually hot water pressure returns.
> >
> > Is there a check valve in the hot water line???
> > Or is there a hot water mixing fitting to help lower the very hot
> water
> > temperature created, when on coolant motor-aid hot water???
> >
> > Any suggestions are welcome.
> >
> > Bill 88 FC Michigan
> >
>

Bill,

If you have an air operated valve that drains the water heater, it
could be stuck between "drain" and "fill". Your symptoms are the
same as I had after draining my water heater.

David Hollis 84FC35 Springfield,IL


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "pattypape"
wrote:
>
> We occasionally lose hot water pressure at all faucets,
> The cold water lines retain pressure.
> This occurs when on City water hook-up or on Fresh water tank pump.
> This is intermittent and eventually hot water pressure returns.
>
> Is there a check valve in the hot water line???
> Or is there a hot water mixing fitting to help lower the very hot
water
> temperature created, when on coolant motor-aid hot water???
>
> Any suggestions are welcome.
>
> Bill 88 FC Michigan
>

Thanks David,

You are the first to confirm my suspicions, This is the only part
common to just the hot water. I hesitated to take the valve apart,
not knowing what one would find, and we are living in the Bird for
now.
It is a Versa Valve, I found a picture at their web site, search for
V & T Series Brass valves page 19.

http://www.versa-valves.com/

Did you take it apart?? Or just give it a blast of air ??

Thanks again,

Bill 88 FC Michigan



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "dthollis1961"
wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> If you have an air operated valve that drains the water heater, it
> could be stuck between "drain" and "fill". Your symptoms are the
> same as I had after draining my water heater.
>
> David Hollis 84FC35 Springfield,IL
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "pattypape"
> wrote:
> >
> > We occasionally lose hot water pressure at all faucets,
> > The cold water lines retain pressure.
> > This occurs when on City water hook-up or on Fresh water tank
pump.
> > This is intermittent and eventually hot water pressure returns.
> >
> > Is there a check valve in the hot water line???
> > Or is there a hot water mixing fitting to help lower the very hot
> water
> > temperature created, when on coolant motor-aid hot water???
> >
> > Any suggestions are welcome.
> >
> > Bill 88 FC Michigan
> >
>

Bill,

That valve looks like what I used to have. I got the valve to work
enough to get me by by taking the end cap off the cylinder and
moving the "guts" to the full "fill" position. There is a spring
inside on one end of the valve that places the valve in the fill
position by default. The air is applied to the opposite end when
the drain switch is activated to slide the valve to the drain
position. There are 4 or 6 O rings in there. I guess the inside of
the cylinder gets limed up over the years.

When I put in a new water heater, I removed that valve and use the
manual water heater drain valve to winterize as I have to get under
the bed anyway.

Glad to help,
David Hollis 84fc35 Springfield,IL


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "pattypape"
wrote:
>
>
>
> Thanks David,
>
> You are the first to confirm my suspicions, This is the only part
> common to just the hot water. I hesitated to take the valve apart,
> not knowing what one would find, and we are living in the Bird for
> now.
> It is a Versa Valve, I found a picture at their web site, search
for
> V & T Series Brass valves page 19.
>
> http://www.versa-valves.com/
>
> Did you take it apart?? Or just give it a blast of air ??
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Bill 88 FC Michigan

Dave,

I called Versa-Valve, they also indicated that the valve may be
cleaned and serviced,usually without damage, but an O ring & gasket
kit is available.

I have already installed a hot water tank by-pass, as to not fill the
HWT with the pink stuff,,
Since I do not have a plumbing drawing, When you removed the valve,
How did you plumb the two cold input lines???
Did you plug the purge line??? Or did you join them together???
Patty wants hot-water.
Thanks,

Bill 88 FC Michigan


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "dthollis1961"
wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> That valve looks like what I used to have. I got the valve to work
> enough to get me by by taking the end cap off the cylinder and
> moving the "guts" to the full "fill" position. There is a spring
> inside on one end of the valve that places the valve in the fill
> position by default. The air is applied to the opposite end when
> the drain switch is activated to slide the valve to the drain
> position. There are 4 or 6 O rings in there. I guess the inside
of
> the cylinder gets limed up over the years.
>
> When I put in a new water heater, I removed that valve and use the
> manual water heater drain valve to winterize as I have to get under
> the bed anyway.
>
> Glad to help,
> David Hollis 84fc35 Springfield,IL
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "pattypape"
> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks David,
> >
> > You are the first to confirm my suspicions, This is the only
part
> > common to just the hot water. I hesitated to take the valve
apart,
> > not knowing what one would find, and we are living in the Bird
for
> > now.
> > It is a Versa Valve, I found a picture at their web site, search
> for
> > V & T Series Brass valves page 19.
> >
> > http://www.versa-valves.com/
> >
> > Did you take it apart?? Or just give it a blast of air ??
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > Bill 88 FC Michigan
>

Thanks David,

I was able to disassemble the three way valve, clean and lube.
No leaks, plenty of hot water pressure.

Bill 88 FC Michigan



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "dthollis1961"
wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> That valve looks like what I used to have. I got the valve to work
> enough to get me by by taking the end cap off the cylinder and
> moving the "guts" to the full "fill" position. There is a spring
> inside on one end of the valve that places the valve in the fill
> position by default. The air is applied to the opposite end when
> the drain switch is activated to slide the valve to the drain
> position. There are 4 or 6 O rings in there. I guess the inside
of
> the cylinder gets limed up over the years.
>
> When I put in a new water heater, I removed that valve and use the
> manual water heater drain valve to winterize as I have to get under
> the bed anyway.
>
> Glad to help,
> David Hollis 84fc35 Springfield,IL
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "pattypape"
> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks David,
> >
> > You are the first to confirm my suspicions, This is the only
part
> > common to just the hot water. I hesitated to take the valve
apart,
> > not knowing what one would find, and we are living in the Bird
for
> > now.
> > It is a Versa Valve, I found a picture at their web site, search
> for
> > V & T Series Brass valves page 19.
> >
> > http://www.versa-valves.com/
> >
> > Did you take it apart?? Or just give it a blast of air ??
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > Bill 88 FC Michigan
>