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Leroy Eckert

I am not an alternator guru by any account. I do read all of my BB material. There are several warnings associated with different equipment that specifically states to disconnect the battery pack before maintenance to prevent alternator damage. One that comes to mind is the Webasto. I shut of the master battery switch in the engine bay then disconnect the main battery ground before doing anything except verifying power. I was taught to disconnect the ground first at all times. Then reverse the procedure. Perhaps operator error has something to do with premature failure also.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
Dahlonega, GA
Royale Converson

Gregory OConnor wrote:
Alternators should not go out as often as they do on Wanderlodge
busses. In search of the root cause of this common posted failure,
forum member JoeW brought up the theory that a big bank of low
charged batteries may tax the alts, heat the alts up and cause early
demise?????

JayDarst runs the alts to power realtime inverter run 110v ac while
driving which should disprove the heat theory but Jay installed non
oem spec alts. His upgrade may be the ticket

I always wondered if 'shore charging' caused any heat or effect to
the alts. or are they diode protected??

I would like to learn the reason why alts go so quick prior to
paying the tuition of alt replacement. JoeW turned me onto a site
that has great tech documentation on batteries and
charging.
Understanding the complex system of voltage production and
maintenance in the bus may not be necessary to ownership but should
help avoid costly mistakes and prove clues to upcomming need.

below is the link

http://www.amplepower.com/technical_documents/index.html

GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", "Gus Rodriguez"
> wrote:
>
> Hello everyone. Can I get some advice on the replacement of an
> alternator for an 89PT40 8V92T. Should I replace it with the same
> (150amp) or go with 160amp high output that is said to work well
at low
> power settings? Any information is appreciated.
>
> Thank you
>
> Gus 89PT40 8V92T
>
Houston, Texas
>





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Donald Spithaler

I was told by an alternator shop to never jump start an engine if both
banks of batteries are discharged. He said to charge the batteries
before trying to start. He said it will ruin the alternator to run it
if the batteries are drained. I replaced my alternator 2 years ago.
Don Spithaler
89 SP 36'
Butler, PA In Zephyrhills till April 1

On Sat, Mar 15, 2008 at 12:59 PM, Leroy Eckert wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I am not an alternator guru by any account. I do read all of my BB material.
> There are several warnings associated with different equipment that
> specifically states to disconnect the battery pack before maintenance to
> prevent alternator damage. One that comes to mind is the Webasto. I shut of
> the master battery switch in the engine bay then disconnect the main battery
> ground before doing anything except verifying power. I was taught to
> disconnect the ground first at all times. Then reverse the procedure.
> Perhaps operator error has something to do with premature failure also.
>
>
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> Dahlonega, GA
> Royale Converson
>
>
>
> Gregory OConnor wrote:
>
>
> Alternators should not go out as often as they do on Wanderlodge
> busses. In search of the root cause of this common posted failure,
> forum member JoeW brought up the theory that a big bank of low
> charged batteries may tax the alts, heat the alts up and cause early
> demise?????
>
> JayDarst runs the alts to power realtime inverter run 110v ac while
> driving which should disprove the heat theory but Jay installed non
> oem spec alts. His upgrade may be the ticket
>
> I always wondered if 'shore charging' caused any heat or effect to
> the alts. or are they diode protected??
>
> I would like to learn the reason why alts go so quick prior to
> paying the tuition of alt replacement. JoeW turned me onto a site
> that has great tech documentation on batteries and charging.
> Understanding the complex system of voltage production and
> maintenance in the bus may not be necessary to ownership but should
> help avoid costly mistakes and prove clues to upcomming need.
>
> below is the link
>
> http://www.amplepower.com/technical_docu...index.html
>
> GregoryO'Connor
> 94ptRomolandCa
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gus Rodriguez"
> wrote:
> >
> > Hello everyone. Can I get some advice on the replacement of an
> > alternator for an 89PT40 8V92T. Should I replace it with the same
> > (150amp) or go with 160amp high output that is said to work well
> at low
> > power settings? Any information is appreciated.
> >
> > Thank you
> >
> > Gus 89PT40 8V92T
> > Houston, Texas
> >
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it
> now.

Gus Rodriguez

Thanks toeveryone for the information provided. I removed both alternators today. It was not thatbad.While I was down there I decided to clean all points of contact as Mike sugested, including the starter. I had them tested at the alternator shop and was told that one was producing 50 amps and the other one was producing 60 amps. I decided to replace them both with new ones by Leece-Neville 110-555JHO160 amps. Everything was going well. I was even ahead of schedule untill I tried to remove the belts off the engine pulley in the back. I can't for the life of me squeeze them through the small gap between the pulley and a plate. I can't see down there but I can feel a small gap with my fingers. It's just not big enough to slip the belts through.
Does anyone know how you are suppose to remove thebelts?? It appears that I have to remove the back bumper
and the back plate that's attached to the frame.ThenI will be able to see the pulley on the engine. I'm hoping there's another way. I would really like to put new belts back there. Suggestions appreciated.
Gus 89 PT40 8v92t
Houston, Tx
Donald Spithaler wrote:
I was told by an alternator shop to never jump start an engine if both
banks of batteries are discharged. He said to charge the batteries
before trying to start. He said it will ruin the
alternator to run it
if the batteries are drained. I replaced my alternator 2 years ago.
Don Spithaler
89 SP 36'
Butler, PA In Zephyrhills till April 1

On Sat, Mar 15, 2008 at 12:59 PM, Leroy Eckert <"jwasnewski%40yahoo.com"> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I am not an alternator guru by any account. I do read all of my BB material.
> There are several warnings associated with different equipment that
> specifically states to disconnect the battery pack before maintenance to
> prevent alternator damage. One that comes to mind is the Webasto. I shut of
> the master battery switch in the engine bay then disconnect the main battery
> ground before doing anything except verifying power. I was taught to
> disconnect the ground first at all times. Then reverse the procedure.
> Perhaps operator error has something to do with premature
failure also.
>
>
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> Dahlonega, GA
> Royale Converson
>
>
>
> Gregory OConnor <"Gregoryoc%40aol.com"> wrote:
>
>
> Alternators should not go out as often as they do on Wanderlodge
> busses. In search of the root cause of this common posted failure,
> forum member JoeW brought up the theory that a big bank of low
> charged batteries may tax the alts, heat the alts up and cause early
> demise?????
>
> JayDarst runs the alts to power realtime inverter run 110v ac while
> driving which should disprove the heat theory but Jay installed non
> oem spec alts. His upgrade may be the ticket
>
> I always wondered if 'shore charging' caused any heat or effect to
> the alts. or are they diode protected??
>
> I would like to learn the reason
why alts go so quick prior to
> paying the tuition of alt replacement. JoeW turned me onto a site
> that has great tech documentation on batteries and charging.
> Understanding the complex system of voltage production and
> maintenance in the bus may not be necessary to ownership but should
> help avoid costly mistakes and prove clues to upcomming need.
>
> below is the link
>
> http://www.amplepower.com/technical_documents/index.html
>
> GregoryO'Connor
> 94ptRomolandCa
>
> --- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", "Gus Rodriguez"
> > wrote:
> >
> > Hello everyone. Can I get some advice on the replacement of an
> > alternator for an 89PT40 8V92T. Should I replace it with the
same
> > (150amp) or go with 160amp high output that is said to work well
> at low
> > power settings? Any information is appreciated.
> >
> > Thank you
> >
> > Gus 89PT40 8V92T
> > Houston, Texas
> >
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it
> now.

jim riordan

Yes those rear belts are hard to deal with. I had to buy a thinner belt so that i could thread it through the small opening. someone before me had put a wider belt in (somehow) when i examined the old belt i found that the pulleys had worn down a ridge in the belt anyway.
jim riordan

Gus Rodriguez wrote:
Thanks toeveryone for the information provided. I removed both alternators today. It was not thatbad.While I was down there I decided to clean all points
of contact as Mike sugested, including the starter. I had them tested at the alternator shop and was told that one was producing 50 amps and the other one was producing 60 amps. I decided to replace them both with new ones by Leece-Neville 110-555JHO160 amps. Everything was going well. I was even ahead of schedule untill I tried to remove the belts off the engine pulley in the back. I can't for the life of me squeeze them through the small gap between the pulley and a plate. I can't see down there but I can feel a small gap with my fingers. It's just not big enough to slip the belts through.
Does anyone know how you are suppose to remove thebelts?? It appears that I have to remove the back bumper and the back plate that's attached to the frame.ThenI will be able to see the pulley on the engine. I'm hoping there's another way. I would really like to put new
belts back there. Suggestions appreciated.
Gus 89 PT40 8v92t
Houston, Tx
Donald Spithaler com> wrote:
I was told by an alternator shop to never jump start an engine if both
banks of batteries are discharged. He said to charge the batteries
before trying to start. He said it will ruin the alternator to run it
if the batteries are drained. I replaced my alternator 2 years ago.
Don Spithaler
89 SP 36'
Butler, PA In Zephyrhills till April 1

On Sat, Mar 15, 2008 at 12:59 PM, Leroy Eckert <"jwasnewski%40yahoo.com"> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I am not an alternator guru by any account. I do read all of my BB material.
> There are several warnings associated with different equipment
that
> specifically states to disconnect the battery pack before maintenance to
> prevent alternator damage. One that comes to mind is the Webasto. I shut of
> the master battery switch in the engine bay then disconnect the main battery
> ground before doing anything except verifying power. I was taught to
> disconnect the ground first at all times. Then reverse the procedure.
> Perhaps operator error has something to do with premature failure also.
>
>
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> Dahlonega, GA
> Royale Converson
>
>
>
> Gregory OConnor <"Gregoryoc%40aol.com"> wrote:
>
>
> Alternators should not go out as often as they do on Wanderlodge
> busses. In search of the root cause of this common posted failure,
> forum member JoeW brought up the theory that a big bank of low
> charged
batteries may tax the alts, heat the alts up and cause early
> demise?????
>
> JayDarst runs the alts to power realtime inverter run 110v ac while
> driving which should disprove the heat theory but Jay installed non
> oem spec alts. His upgrade may be the ticket
>
> I always wondered if 'shore charging' caused any heat or effect to
> the alts. or are they diode protected??
>
> I would like to learn the reason why alts go so quick prior to
> paying the tuition of alt replacement. JoeW turned me onto a site
> that has great tech documentation on batteries and charging.
> Understanding the complex system of voltage production and
> maintenance in the bus may not be necessary to ownership but should
> help avoid costly mistakes and prove clues to upcomming need.
>
> below is the link
>
> http://www.amplepower.com/technical_documents/index.html
>
> GregoryO'Connor
> 94ptRomolandCa
>
> --- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", "Gus Rodriguez"
> > wrote:
> >
> > Hello everyone. Can I get some advice on the replacement of an
> > alternator for an 89PT40 8V92T. Should I replace it with the same
> > (150amp) or go with 160amp high output that is said to work well
> at low
> > power settings? Any information is appreciated.
> >
> > Thank you
> >
> > Gus 89PT40 8V92T
> > Houston, Texas
> >
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try
it
> now.




Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

mbulriss

Gus,

I know it's real tight back there, but I really wouldn't think it is
so tight that you need to remove the bumper and frame end cap. I just
had to be patient and 'finesse' them a little until they slipped on
by. If needed, some real soapy water and a long dowel or blunt
screwdriver might help sliding them around the front of the pulley and
through the tight space in front of the pulley. Perhaps a hand above
holding them steady while you attack them from below might help also?

Mike Bulriss
1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
San Antonio, TX

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Gus Rodriguez
wrote:
>
> Thanks to everyone for the information provided. I removed both
alternators today. It was not that bad. While I was down there I
decided to clean all points of contact as Mike sugested, including the
starter. I had them tested at the alternator shop and was told that
one was producing 50 amps and the other one was producing 60 amps. I
decided to replace them both with new ones by Leece-Neville 110-555JHO
160 amps. Everything was going well. I was even ahead of schedule
untill I tried to remove the belts off the engine pulley in the back.
I can't for the life of me squeeze them through the small gap between
the pulley and a plate. I can't see down there but I can feel a small
gap with my fingers. It's just not big enough to slip the belts through.
>
> Does anyone know how you are suppose to remove the belts?? It
appears that I have to remove the back bumper and the back plate
that's attached to the frame. Then I will be able to see the pulley on
the engine. I'm hoping there's another way. I would really like to
put new belts back there. Suggestions appreciated.
>
> Gus 89 PT40 8v92t
> Houston, Tx
> Donald Spithaler wrote:
> I was told by an alternator shop to never jump start an
engine if both
> banks of batteries are discharged. He said to charge the batteries
> before trying to start. He said it will ruin the alternator to run it
> if the batteries are drained. I replaced my alternator 2 years ago.
> Don Spithaler
> 89 SP 36'
> Butler, PA In Zephyrhills till April 1
>
> On Sat, Mar 15, 2008 at 12:59 PM, Leroy Eckert wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I am not an alternator guru by any account. I do read all of my BB
material.
> > There are several warnings associated with different equipment that
> > specifically states to disconnect the battery pack before
maintenance to
> > prevent alternator damage. One that comes to mind is the Webasto.
I shut of
> > the master battery switch in the engine bay then disconnect the
main battery
> > ground before doing anything except verifying power. I was taught to
> > disconnect the ground first at all times. Then reverse the procedure.
> > Perhaps operator error has something to do with premature failure
also.
> >
> >
> > Leroy Eckert
> > 1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> > Dahlonega, GA
> > Royale Converson
> >
> >
> >
> > Gregory OConnor wrote:
> >
> >
> > Alternators should not go out as often as they do on Wanderlodge
> > busses. In search of the root cause of this common posted failure,
> > forum member JoeW brought up the theory that a big bank of low
> > charged batteries may tax the alts, heat the alts up and cause early
> > demise?????
> >
> > JayDarst runs the alts to power realtime inverter run 110v ac while
> > driving which should disprove the heat theory but Jay installed non
> > oem spec alts. His upgrade may be the ticket
> >
> > I always wondered if 'shore charging' caused any heat or effect to
> > the alts. or are they diode protected??
> >
> > I would like to learn the reason why alts go so quick prior to
> > paying the tuition of alt replacement. JoeW turned me onto a site
> > that has great tech documentation on batteries and charging.
> > Understanding the complex system of voltage production and
> > maintenance in the bus may not be necessary to ownership but should
> > help avoid costly mistakes and prove clues to upcomming need.
> >
> > below is the link
> >
> > http://www.amplepower.com/technical_docu...index.html
> >
> > GregoryO'Connor
> > 94ptRomolandCa
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gus Rodriguez"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello everyone. Can I get some advice on the replacement of an
> > > alternator for an 89PT40 8V92T. Should I replace it with the same
> > > (150amp) or go with 160amp high output that is said to work well
> > at low
> > > power settings? Any information is appreciated.
> > >
> > > Thank you
> > >
> > > Gus 89PT40 8V92T
> > > Houston, Texas
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.
Try it
> > now.
>

Don Bradner

I remember them as being very difficult, but eventually done. One of my first
projects early last year, so I don't recall specifics of doing anything except
patience/finesse as Mike says.

Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
Eureka, CA

On 3/18/2008 at 5:06 PM mbulriss wrote:

>Gus,
>
>I know it's real tight back there, but I really wouldn't think it is
>so tight that you need to remove the bumper and frame end cap. I just
>had to be patient and 'finesse' them a little until they slipped on
>by. If needed, some real soapy water and a long dowel or blunt
>screwdriver might help sliding them around the front of the pulley and
>through the tight space in front of the pulley. Perhaps a hand above
>holding them steady while you attack them from below might help also?
>
>Mike Bulriss
>1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
>San Antonio, TX
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Gus Rodriguez
>wrote:
>>
>> Thanks to everyone for the information provided. I removed both
>alternators today. It was not that bad. While I was down there I
>decided to clean all points of contact as Mike sugested, including the
>starter. I had them tested at the alternator shop and was told that
>one was producing 50 amps and the other one was producing 60 amps. I
>decided to replace them both with new ones by Leece-Neville 110-555JHO
>160 amps. Everything was going well. I was even ahead of schedule
>untill I tried to remove the belts off the engine pulley in the back.
> I can't for the life of me squeeze them through the small gap between
>the pulley and a plate. I can't see down there but I can feel a small
>gap with my fingers. It's just not big enough to slip the belts through.
>>
>> Does anyone know how you are suppose to remove the belts?? It
>appears that I have to remove the back bumper and the back plate
>that's attached to the frame. Then I will be able to see the pulley on
>the engine. I'm hoping there's another way. I would really like to
>put new belts back there. Suggestions appreciated.
>>
>> Gus 89 PT40 8v92t
>> Houston, Tx
>> Donald Spithaler wrote:
>> I was told by an alternator shop to never jump start an
>engine if both
>> banks of batteries are discharged. He said to charge the batteries
>> before trying to start. He said it will ruin the alternator to run it
>> if the batteries are drained. I replaced my alternator 2 years ago.
>> Don Spithaler
>> 89 SP 36'
>> Butler, PA In Zephyrhills till April 1
>>
>> On Sat, Mar 15, 2008 at 12:59 PM, Leroy Eckert wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > I am not an alternator guru by any account. I do read all of my BB
>material.
>> > There are several warnings associated with different equipment that
>> > specifically states to disconnect the battery pack before
>maintenance to
>> > prevent alternator damage. One that comes to mind is the Webasto.
>I shut of
>> > the master battery switch in the engine bay then disconnect the
>main battery
>> > ground before doing anything except verifying power. I was taught to
>> > disconnect the ground first at all times. Then reverse the procedure.
>> > Perhaps operator error has something to do with premature failure
>also.
>> >
>> >
>> > Leroy Eckert
>> > 1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
>> > Dahlonega, GA
>> > Royale Converson
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Gregory OConnor wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > Alternators should not go out as often as they do on Wanderlodge
>> > busses. In search of the root cause of this common posted failure,
>> > forum member JoeW brought up the theory that a big bank of low
>> > charged batteries may tax the alts, heat the alts up and cause early
>> > demise?????
>> >
>> > JayDarst runs the alts to power realtime inverter run 110v ac while
>> > driving which should disprove the heat theory but Jay installed non
>> > oem spec alts. His upgrade may be the ticket
>> >
>> > I always wondered if 'shore charging' caused any heat or effect to
>> > the alts. or are they diode protected??
>> >
>> > I would like to learn the reason why alts go so quick prior to
>> > paying the tuition of alt replacement. JoeW turned me onto a site
>> > that has great tech documentation on batteries and charging.
>> > Understanding the complex system of voltage production and
>> > maintenance in the bus may not be necessary to ownership but should
>> > help avoid costly mistakes and prove clues to upcomming need.
>> >
>> > below is the link
>> >
>> > http://www.amplepower.com/technical_docu...index.html
>> >
>> > GregoryO'Connor
>> > 94ptRomolandCa
>> >
>> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gus Rodriguez"
>> > wrote:
>> > >
>> > > Hello everyone. Can I get some advice on the replacement of an
>> > > alternator for an 89PT40 8V92T. Should I replace it with the same
>> > > (150amp) or go with 160amp high output that is said to work well
>> > at low
>> > > power settings? Any information is appreciated.
>> > >
>> > > Thank you
>> > >
>> > > Gus 89PT40 8V92T
>> > > Houston, Texas
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ________________________________
>> > Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.
>Try it
>> > now.
>>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
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