Robert & Teri Rahn
11-17-2007, 10:37
I tried to get it off but I dont think it can be done without
removing other components. I was able to get a big wrench on it but
there isnt room to turn i when the wrench is straight. I will wait
for now I think.
Robert
In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@...> wrote:
>
> Robert-
>
> It was the valve that closes the line coming out of the water pump
> body. I would have never known, had I not pulled the water pump and
> replaced it this past summer. The gate valves are made to service,
and
> the cap around the shaft has threads and can be spun off- allowing
you
> to remove the gate altogether. Removing the whole valve assembly
would
> be nearly impossible without removing the water pump. Just be ready
to
> stuff a rag or some putty in the hole to keep the coolant from
> draining while you shop around for a replacement gate. A large
> plumbing supply house should be able to get you one.
>
> -Shane
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Robert & Teri Rahn"
> wrote:
> >
> > Shane that is great news becaus the valve that seems to remain
cold
> > is the one next to the transmission dipstick and looks to be very
> > difficult to remove. Is that the one that went bad on yours?
RObert
> > -- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Robert,
> > >
> > > It took me two years to figure out that one of the gate valves
was
> > not
> > > opening- even though the handle was turning. My guess is that
the
> > gate
> > > valve controlling flow to or from the front loop is closed-
> > > permanently. I know I hated to do it, but eventually you should
> > check
> > > to make sure that the threads are not stripped in the gate on
the
> > > valves. Most of the innards can be removed without pulling the
hoses
> > > off. You just have to hold the body firmly with a large wrench
while
> > > unscrewing the valve shaft and gate assembly.
> > >
> > > Shane Fedeli
> > > 85PT40
> > > Hershey, PA
> > >
>
removing other components. I was able to get a big wrench on it but
there isnt room to turn i when the wrench is straight. I will wait
for now I think.
Robert
In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@...> wrote:
>
> Robert-
>
> It was the valve that closes the line coming out of the water pump
> body. I would have never known, had I not pulled the water pump and
> replaced it this past summer. The gate valves are made to service,
and
> the cap around the shaft has threads and can be spun off- allowing
you
> to remove the gate altogether. Removing the whole valve assembly
would
> be nearly impossible without removing the water pump. Just be ready
to
> stuff a rag or some putty in the hole to keep the coolant from
> draining while you shop around for a replacement gate. A large
> plumbing supply house should be able to get you one.
>
> -Shane
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Robert & Teri Rahn"
>
> >
> > Shane that is great news becaus the valve that seems to remain
cold
> > is the one next to the transmission dipstick and looks to be very
> > difficult to remove. Is that the one that went bad on yours?
RObert
> > -- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Robert,
> > >
> > > It took me two years to figure out that one of the gate valves
was
> > not
> > > opening- even though the handle was turning. My guess is that
the
> > gate
> > > valve controlling flow to or from the front loop is closed-
> > > permanently. I know I hated to do it, but eventually you should
> > check
> > > to make sure that the threads are not stripped in the gate on
the
> > > valves. Most of the innards can be removed without pulling the
hoses
> > > off. You just have to hold the body firmly with a large wrench
while
> > > unscrewing the valve shaft and gate assembly.
> > >
> > > Shane Fedeli
> > > 85PT40
> > > Hershey, PA
> > >
>