Wanderlodge Gurus - The Member Funded Wanderlodge Forum

Sorry, I'm starting a new thread for developing a cooling system.

Ah, Randy...You got me thinking here...

Let's say we are gaining in altitude and the duration of the climb is 15
minutes. The engine temp. climbs above normal. IF, the hose from shower
system is in ready to operator mode, what volume of water would be used
to maintain the engine temperature close to normal?

This might be a system to build, plumb it in the cold water line,
control it at the dash. Do a neat job with all plumbing out of sight.
Jim Hutchings has a similar set up on his bus.

Curt Sprenger
1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
Anaheim Hills, Calif.

Richard Hayden wrote:

> "the simpsons" - more like the Red Green Show I'd say. But, if it
> worked who cares.
>
> Dick Hayden - '87 PT 38 - Lake Stevens, WA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* randydupree >
> *To:* wanderlodge@yahoogroups.com
> >
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 19, 2007 7:25 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [wanderlodge] Re: SW Trip update
>
> 250 coolant temp? OK! i thought you said oil temp!!
> 250 is kinda HOT !
> yes,pull over,spray some water on the rad,cool that puppy down!
> one time i had a bus that ran hot climbing mountains,i ran a
> garden hose from the shower all the way down the hall and out the
> window and around the front to the radiator,i put a hose sprayer
> on the hose,tied it all in place with zip-ties and when the temp
> started getting up we just turned on the shower and sprayed the
> rad with water.
> worked like a charm,looked like something from the simpsons but it
> worked!
> Randy

--
Curt Sprenger
1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
Anaheim Hills, Calif.

Good morning:

There has been a spray water cooling system out for years called the
"desert spray." Then there are those misting systems one can purchase to
cool down a patio area in hot hot areas of the country.

It is one of those that i bought at walmart, consisting of spray knozles
and pvc tubing. These could be adapted very easily to assist a "cool down"
and a finer spray as well. Which is preferable as each droplet of water
removes, what, 20 or more times it's weight in radiated heat.

Just a thought.

I am surprised that PT owners don't have an air scoop made for the radiator
area. 3 inches wide, 3 inches of scoop and how ever long the out side rear
of the grill is on the drivers side. This would break up the boiling air
flow in that area and force more air over the rad core for cooling. Could
be painted to match the Coach or made of stainless and left bright. And 3
inches high will not protrude that much.

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
84FC35
Duncan, Oklahoma



At 04:49 PM 6/20/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>Sorry, I'm starting a new thread for developing a cooling system.
>
>Ah, Randy...You got me thinking here...
>
>Let's say we are gaining in altitude and the duration of the climb is 15
>minutes. The engine temp. climbs above normal. IF, the hose from shower
>system is in ready to operator mode, what volume of water would be used
>to maintain the engine temperature close to normal?
>
>This might be a system to build, plumb it in the cold water line,
>control it at the dash. Do a neat job with all plumbing out of sight.
>Jim Hutchings has a similar set up on his bus.
>
>Curt Sprenger
>1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
>Anaheim Hills, Calif.
>

Hi Ralph, good thought on the scoop. I'd like mine in stainless. You make
'em, we'll buy 'em.

Ernie Ekberg
83PT40
Livingston, Mt




************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ken, on my PT, there would have to be a 39" tall by 4" wide. I have 3 screws
on the vertical and 1 each on the top and bottom that could hold the scoop
in place without having to drill additional holes. I can't draw this out.

Ernie Ekberg
83PT40
Livingston, Mt




************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Curt was right I did install a mist system on my 82 FC.
I used 12 industrial type spray nozzles got them form Mc master car. There
is a copper tube snaked and fastened to the inside of grill with a tee for each
spray head. The cooper tube comes up to a union up by the radiator fill door so
that it can be disconnected to remove the grill. I have a boost pump that takes
the house water pressure up to 100 psi after is goes thru a refrigerator ice
maker filter to remove minerals. The boost pump is not necessary it is part of
my engine water injection system ( a whole other subject). The water flow is
controlled by a solenoid valve operated by a switch on the dash. What I learned
is you need several nozzles to do any good.. since you are limited to a short
distance from the grill to the radiator, and the huge amount of air moving
across the radiator the water is sucked threw a small surface area. If you are
somewhat forgetful install a button instead of a switch. If you forget and
leave it on you will run yourself right out of water. On the forward control is
was simple to install all the equipment in the propane tank area and tee off of
the water drain line.
I had a store bought system on a 90 Marathon it operated on a pulse system
and a small pump that you plumbed into the suction side of the fresh water
system. It had a tubing ring with nozzles fastener to the radiator. The
problem is it would not work at hwy speed. You needed to pull over and let the
engine idle so that the water would spread across the radiator.
In addition to the spray system I installed a secondary radiator. This is an
industrial transmission cooler about 18 by 30 inches. The radiator is mounted
flat mid chaises up inside the frame members with a electric thermostatically
controlled fan over the top. I routed the heater hoses through the radiator
after the flow had gone through all other heating elements. The end result is
my main fan only comes on during a heavy grade.
WHY did I spend so much time effort and money to add all this cooling gear?
Because it turned out that I had either a cracked head, engine block, or a bad
head gasket ( I just got ticked and put a 250 HP complete engine in instead of
fool with it any longer. Hence I do not know where the leak was.. just that it
was.) that was letting exhaust gas in to the cooling system. So if you were
hitting 250 F on a 3208 FC NA I would be absolutely certain to have the radiator
water checked for exhaust gases before I did anything else.

Jim Hutchings
82 FCRB
Yorba Linda, ca


----- Original Message -----
From: erniecarpet@...
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2007 1:52 PM
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Additional Engine Cooling System


Hi Ralph, good thought on the scoop. I'd like mine in stainless. You make
'em, we'll buy 'em.

Ernie Ekberg
83PT40
Livingston, Mt

************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Would that scoop be better in the rear or in front of the louvered panel?
Ask me about carpet- I know little about aero-dynamics.

Ernie Ekberg
83PT40
Livingston, Mt




************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hmmm, someone able to draw it up?

I happen to work for a company that forms thin-gauge SS to make commercial
coffee brewers.
We can definitely punch/burn it, but I would have to see the bends needed to see
if we have the tooling to do it. As long as we can form it on one of our press
brakes with existing die's, then there will be no initial cost, keeping the
price relatively low (but Stainless is higher now than it has ever been, by a
large margin), or they could be done in a mild steel and powder coated.

We use a nicely grained Stainless (several different grades), so it would look
decent.

If someone can draw it up, then I can let you guys know the approximate cost.


ken
wannabe in SoCal
ken.sann @ gmail. com




----- Original Message -----
From: erniecarpet@...
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2007 1:52 PM
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Additional Engine Cooling System


Hi Ralph, good thought on the scoop. I'd like mine in stainless. You make
'em, we'll buy 'em.

Ernie Ekberg
83PT40
Livingston, Mt


.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ken,
Thank you for offering here. Much appreciated.

Ours measures 39-3/4" (top inside frame to bottom inside frame), plus
the 1-1/2" top and bottom lip, for a total of 42-3/4". It would have to
be 6" wide. There are 5 screws in the vertical (rear).

These are the flat measurements, no allowance for nice rounded corners,
but that can come out of the 39-3/4".

Thanks,

Curt Sprenger
1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
Anaheim Hills, Calif.



erniecarpet@... wrote:

> Ken, on my PT, there would have to be a 39" tall by 4" wide. I have 3
> screws
> on the vertical and 1 each on the top and bottom that could hold the
> scoop
> in place without having to drill additional holes. I can't draw this out.
>
> Ernie Ekberg
> 83PT40
> Livingston, Mt
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
> http://www.aol.com. <http://www.aol.com.>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

I think the scoop would need to be designed to be easily removed to access the
radiator grill. On my coach there are four spring loaded screws on top that hold
the grill in place. The bottom has brackets that the grill sits in. Pretty
simple.
Making one out of 20 gauge #8 polished stainless steel without welds may be
another story. Painted fiberglass may be a cheaper alternative.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
Niceville, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: erniecarpet@...
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2007 8:16 PM
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Additional Engine Cooling System


Ken, on my PT, there would have to be a 39" tall by 4" wide. I have 3 screws
on the vertical and 1 each on the top and bottom that could hold the scoop
in place without having to drill additional holes. I can't draw this out.

Ernie Ekberg
83PT40
Livingston, Mt

************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I ran a 4 inch scoop on my 84-1/2 pt. for several years. (might
still be on it) it was made of stainless steel. It mounted vertically
on the rear of the radiator grill using the existing screw holes.
Easy to take on and off. I always thought it helped somewhat in the
cooling although it's hard to document. I also had a store bought
swamp system installed with the metered water controlled by a switch
at the driver station this was very effective when used. Ernie, I had
deerskins make the scoop they have the shop west of Springtown on the
Jacksboro hwy. It had two slight bends in it, looked good. Bob 93pt40
Illinois....





geForum@yahoogroups.com, erniecarpet@... wrote:
>
> Would that scoop be better in the rear or in front of the louvered
panel?
> Ask me about carpet- I know little about aero-dynamics.
>
> Ernie Ekberg
> 83PT40
> Livingston, Mt
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>