Had odd water pressure problems on my Bird since I got it. Decided to chase it
down today.
Tracked the problem back to the water pressure regulator. Removed the bottom
(at least I
think it is the bottom, it looks to me like it is installed upside down with the
bottom facing
up). Inside of it was chock full or rust, calcium and assorted varieties of
minerals and gunk.
Piping was completely blocked. I cleaned it out enough to let water pass thru
but I'm pretty
sure it's not regulating pressure any more due to the additional gunk that must
be in the top
of it. Considered replacing it, but that's a pain in the neck. Have to remove
a number of
pipes, and even the valve controlling water flow to the heater, and the air blow
out line from
the chassis air to get enough room to unscrew the regulator. So I decided to
leave it in place
and use an in-line regulator with a gauge at the hose connection. Anyone done
something
similar? Anyone else checked to see if their regulators are actually
functional?
Kerry
82 FC 35 Unregulated
Denver
Ours stopped working. The regulator/check valve was removed and tossed
in the trash. Installed a new check valve, and use a pressure regulator
on the hose shore end. I have pictures if anyone is interested. The
pictures may be out on one of the sites too.
Curt Sprenger
1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
Anaheim Hills, Calif.
davidkerryedwards wrote:
> Had odd water pressure problems on my Bird since I got it. Decided to
> chase it down today.
> Tracked the problem back to the water pressure regulator. Removed the
> bottom (at least I
> think it is the bottom, it looks to me like it is installed upside
> down with the bottom facing
> up). Inside of it was chock full or rust, calcium and assorted
> varieties of minerals and gunk.
> Piping was completely blocked. I cleaned it out enough to let water
> pass thru but I'm pretty
> sure it's not regulating pressure any more due to the additional gunk
> that must be in the top
> of it. Considered replacing it, but that's a pain in the neck. Have to
> remove a number of
> pipes, and even the valve controlling water flow to the heater, and
> the air blow out line from
> the chassis air to get enough room to unscrew the regulator. So I
> decided to leave it in place
> and use an in-line regulator with a gauge at the hose connection.
> Anyone done something
> similar? Anyone else checked to see if their regulators are actually
> functional?
>
> Kerry
> 82 FC 35 Unregulated
> Denver
>
>
Curt I would appreciate the pics. Thanks
On 08/06/07, Curt Sprenger wrote:
>
> Ours stopped working. The regulator/check valve was removed and tossed
> in the trash. Installed a new check valve, and use a pressure regulator
> on the hose shore end. I have pictures if anyone is interested. The
> pictures may be out on one of the sites too.
>
> Curt Sprenger
> 1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
> Anaheim Hills, Calif.
>
> davidkerryedwards wrote:
>
> > Had odd water pressure problems on my Bird since I got it. Decided to
> > chase it down today.
> > Tracked the problem back to the water pressure regulator. Removed the
> > bottom (at least I
> > think it is the bottom, it looks to me like it is installed upside
> > down with the bottom facing
> > up). Inside of it was chock full or rust, calcium and assorted
> > varieties of minerals and gunk.
> > Piping was completely blocked. I cleaned it out enough to let water
> > pass thru but I'm pretty
> > sure it's not regulating pressure any more due to the additional gunk
> > that must be in the top
> > of it. Considered replacing it, but that's a pain in the neck. Have to
> > remove a number of
> > pipes, and even the valve controlling water flow to the heater, and
> > the air blow out line from
> > the chassis air to get enough room to unscrew the regulator. So I
> > decided to leave it in place
> > and use an in-line regulator with a gauge at the hose connection.
> > Anyone done something
> > similar? Anyone else checked to see if their regulators are actually
> > functional?
> >
> > Kerry
> > 82 FC 35 Unregulated
> > Denver
> >
> >
>
>
>
--
Rob, Sue & Merlin Robinson
94 WLWB
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The check valve stopped working on ours last year. It was bleeding out when the
pump was
running. I just bought a brass end-of-hose shutoff valve and attached it to the
hose inlet. I
can shut if off manually. Turns out it was a smart idea because it's actually
easier to attach
the hose to the shut off valve than it was to the original fitting since the
fitting spins freely on
the valve.
Kerry
82 FC 35
Denver
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Curt Sprenger
wrote:
>
> Ours stopped working. The regulator/check valve was removed and tossed
> in the trash. Installed a new check valve, and use a pressure regulator
> on the hose shore end. I have pictures if anyone is interested. The
> pictures may be out on one of the sites too.
>
> Curt Sprenger
> 1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
> Anaheim Hills, Calif.
My coach has an outside water faucet (one like a kitchen sink). I
swapped a threaded end on it (so it's more like a laundry tub faucet)
and I have a water pressure gauge with a hose-thread. I put it on the
faucet to check the pressure. I usually get about 40 psi when
connected to shore water and 65 psi (the rated pressure) from the
variable speed pump.
Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
aeonix1@...
On the road at Chief Hosa, Colorado
On Jun 8, 2007, at 2:09 PM, davidkerryedwards wrote:
> Had odd water pressure problems on my Bird since I got it. Decided
> to chase it down today.
> Tracked the problem back to the water pressure regulator. Removed
> the bottom (at least I
> think it is the bottom, it looks to me like it is installed upside
> down with the bottom facing
> up). Inside of it was chock full or rust, calcium and assorted
> varieties of minerals and gunk.
> Piping was completely blocked. I cleaned it out enough to let
> water pass thru but I'm pretty
> sure it's not regulating pressure any more due to the additional
> gunk that must be in the top
> of it. Considered replacing it, but that's a pain in the neck.
> Have to remove a number of
> pipes, and even the valve controlling water flow to the heater, and
> the air blow out line from
> the chassis air to get enough room to unscrew the regulator. So I
> decided to leave it in place
> and use an in-line regulator with a gauge at the hose connection.
> Anyone done something
> similar? Anyone else checked to see if their regulators are
> actually functional?
>
> Kerry
> 82 FC 35 Unregulated
> Denver
>
I got my regulator from Bluebird parts but I don't know how to access
the inside fitting. The regulator is under a box like
structure on which the road side night stand is located and this
does not move. Do you have to access it by removing the engine cover?
Other advice I have received apparently does not apply to my coach
since no access through the floor appears to be available.
Chuck Harrison
Akron, Ohio
90 SP36
Chuck,
If your coach is like ours...Lift up the mattress and support it or
somehow get it out of the way. Lift up the bed board that extends beyond
the bed box and slide it under the mattress. Remove the carpet on top
and in front of that stand (it's one piece). Remove the screws holding
the front panel. You may need to remove the top small board too. Lift
up/out the front panel.
Curt Sprenger
1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
Anaheim Hills, Calif.
williamcharrison wrote:
> I got my regulator from Bluebird parts but I don't know how to access
> the inside fitting. The regulator is under a box like
> structure on which the road side night stand is located and this
> does not move. Do you have to access it by removing the engine cover?
> Other advice I have received apparently does not apply to my coach
> since no access through the floor appears to be available.
>
> Chuck Harrison
> Akron, Ohio
> 90 SP36
>
>
My '90 PT had a similar setup and I had to remove the carpet to find
the screws that allowed the plywood panel to be removed. Some had a
radio speaker mounted here too and it may be possible to remove that
and gain some access. Another way is to cut the hose going to the
regulator at a point under the bed, remove the 4 screws on the
fill/regulator and pull it out with the hose attached. Install a new
piece of hose on the new regulator and reverse the process. This worked
on a '90 PT40, yours may be different.
Rich D. '99LXi, '90 PT40 CT
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "williamcharrison"
wrote:
>
> I got my regulator from Bluebird parts but I don't know how to
access
> the inside fitting. The regulator is under a box like
> structure on which the road side night stand is located and this
> does not move. Do you have to access it by removing the engine cover?
> Other advice I have received apparently does not apply to my coach
> since no access through the floor appears to be available.
>
>
> Chuck Harrison
> Akron, Ohio
> 90 SP36
>
Just a thought and tip:
No need to tear everything out in the bedroom, if this is the regulator I
think it is, everything can be done from the out side where you hook up
shore water.
If you look at the center of the regulator, on each side of the hose
connector, you should see 2 small holes. These holes allows you to use a
large snap ring plier or some very thin tipped needle nose pliers to insert
into those two holes. Then using this method you can simply unscrew the
"guts" of the regulator out of the old housing. Clean and lube the inner
part of the old housing with a silicone base grease "white lubriplate or
permitex grease". Then remove the "guts" of the new regulator, taking note
of how it goes together, and screw the new guts into the old housing. Done
in 10 minutes and your a hero with the "better half" because 1. you have
water and 2, you did not tear "her" Coach up.
Safe travels,
Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
84FC35
Duncan, Oklahoma
At 01:06 PM 7/6/2007 +0000, you wrote:
> I got my regulator from Bluebird parts but I don't know how to access
>the inside fitting. The regulator is under a box like
>structure on which the road side night stand is located and this
>does not move. Do you have to access it by removing the engine cover?
>Other advice I have received apparently does not apply to my coach
>since no access through the floor appears to be available.
>
>
>Chuck Harrison
>Akron, Ohio
>90 SP36
>
>
This is a great repair tip, Ralph has posted this in the past.
When doing this repair, I found that the Jabsco regulator is
manufactured is several different mounting configurations, but
the internal "guts" are the same. So this part is easy to find at an
RV store, West Marine or Boaters World.
Bill 88 FC Michigan
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
>
> Just a thought and tip:
>
> No need to tear everything out in the bedroom, if this is the
regulator I
> think it is, everything can be done from the out side where you
hook up
> shore water.
>
> If you look at the center of the regulator, on each side of the
hose
> connector, you should see 2 small holes. These holes allows you to
use a
> large snap ring plier or some very thin tipped needle nose pliers
to insert
> into those two holes. Then using this method you can simply unscrew
the
> "guts" of the regulator out of the old housing. Clean and lube the
inner
> part of the old housing with a silicone base grease "white
lubriplate or
> permitex grease". Then remove the "guts" of the new regulator,
taking note
> of how it goes together, and screw the new guts into the old
housing. Done
> in 10 minutes and your a hero with the "better half" because 1. you
have
> water and 2, you did not tear "her" Coach up.
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> 84FC35
> Duncan, Oklahoma
>
> At 01:06 PM 7/6/2007 +0000, you wrote:
> > I got my regulator from Bluebird parts but I don't know how to
access
> >the inside fitting. The regulator is under a box like
> >structure on which the road side night stand is located and this
> >does not move. Do you have to access it by removing the engine
cover?
> >Other advice I have received apparently does not apply to my coach
> >since no access through the floor appears to be available.
> >
> >
> >Chuck Harrison
> >Akron, Ohio
> >90 SP36
> >
> >
>