Morning Tom:
Did you remove the wire from the post and check it as well? OK I know this
is redundant but double check the fuse holder to be sure a wire is not
burned off inside the control box. Next remove the top off the control box
and locate the terminal strip in the bottom of the box. Now make a drawing
of the terminal strip so you can make check marks as you do electrical
measurements. The terminal strip from left to right is
P,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,20,34,35,55
Set your meter, with the fuse in place, to dc volts, and put the black lead
of your meter with an jumper clip lead to ground. The do your measurements
with the red lead. You should have 12vdc on the terminal strip marked P. If
no 12 vdc then the fuse, fuse holder or wire is bad or connection corroded.
If you have power there, then with the red lead on terminals 1,2,3 you
should not read voltage until you switch the start switch. With the start
switch held in the start position you should have 12 vdc on 1,2,and 3.
Terminal 4 is the common or ground, Terminal 5, we are going to check if C
relay is pulling in. With the red lead on Terminal 5, switch the start and
if you have power then C relay is pulling in. This also checks the normally
closed contacts of the CR (110vac) relay. Terminal 6 is the pre heat
switch. Terminal 7 there is no connection. We will stop there for now,
because you should have proved there is power somewhere in the above. If
not then we will do a diode check on 4 diodes. The diodes, in this case,
will be square body units about 1/4 inch or so square with two tabs on each
end.
So do those checks above first then we can go on after we find out where it
is or is not.
Safe travels,
Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
84FC35
Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
At 03:22 PM 5/28/2007 +0000, you wrote:
>Ralph,
>
>I checked the voltage on the small terminal on the starter solenoid.
>0 vdc, when I hit the start switch. Next step please?
>
>Tom Sorrentino
>1987 PT38
>Bedford Hills, NY
>
>
Tom, just another thought, on the back side of your control box, is there a
rectangular white plug the wiring goes into the control box at? If there
is, un plug it then plug it back in a couple of times and wiggle the wiring
on that wiring harness while trying to start the gen set. Just a quick and
dirty thought.
Safe travels,
Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
84FC35
Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
At 11:09 AM 5/28/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>Morning Tom:
>
>Did you remove the wire from the post and check it as well? OK I know this
>is redundant but double check the fuse holder to be sure a wire is not
>burned off inside the control box. Next remove the top off the control box
>and locate the terminal strip in the bottom of the box. Now make a drawing
>of the terminal strip so you can make check marks as you do electrical
>measurements. The terminal strip from left to right is
>P,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,20,34,35,55
>
>Set your meter, with the fuse in place, to dc volts, and put the black lead
>of your meter with an jumper clip lead to ground. The do your measurements
>with the red lead. You should have 12vdc on the terminal strip marked P. If
>no 12 vdc then the fuse, fuse holder or wire is bad or connection corroded.
>If you have power there, then with the red lead on terminals 1,2,3 you
>should not read voltage until you switch the start switch. With the start
>switch held in the start position you should have 12 vdc on 1,2,and 3.
>Terminal 4 is the common or ground, Terminal 5, we are going to check if C
>relay is pulling in. With the red lead on Terminal 5, switch the start and
>if you have power then C relay is pulling in. This also checks the normally
>closed contacts of the CR (110vac) relay. Terminal 6 is the pre heat
>switch. Terminal 7 there is no connection. We will stop there for now,
>because you should have proved there is power somewhere in the above. If
>not then we will do a diode check on 4 diodes. The diodes, in this case,
>will be square body units about 1/4 inch or so square with two tabs on each
>end.
>
>So do those checks above first then we can go on after we find out where it
>is or is not.
>
>Safe travels,
>
>Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
>84FC35
>Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
>
>At 03:22 PM 5/28/2007 +0000, you wrote:
> >Ralph,
> >
> >I checked the voltage on the small terminal on the starter solenoid.
> >0 vdc, when I hit the start switch. Next step please?
> >
> >Tom Sorrentino
> >1987 PT38
> >Bedford Hills, NY
> >
Tom- do you have the Perkins generator? If so mine runs a little over 150
degrees.
Ernie Ekberg
83PT40
Livingston, Mt
************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ralph,
ok I'm done painting now! My wife thought painting was more important
than fixing the generator LOL!
not pushing start switch pushing start switch
P=12 vdc
1=0 vdc 1=0 vdc
2=0 vdc 2=0 vdc
3=12 vdc 3=0 vdc
5=0 vdc 5=0 vdc
All wires and connections look good. There is a faint smell of burnt
electrical, when I took off control box cover.
Tom Sorrentino
1987 PT38
Bedford Hills, NY
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
>
> Morning Tom:
>
> Did you remove the wire from the post and check it as well? OK I
know this
> is redundant but double check the fuse holder to be sure a wire is
not
> burned off inside the control box. Next remove the top off the
control box
> and locate the terminal strip in the bottom of the box. Now make a
drawing
> of the terminal strip so you can make check marks as you do
electrical
> measurements. The terminal strip from left to right is
> P,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,20,34,35,55
>
> Set your meter, with the fuse in place, to dc volts, and put the
black lead
> of your meter with an jumper clip lead to ground. The do your
measurements
> with the red lead. You should have 12vdc on the terminal strip
marked P. If
> no 12 vdc then the fuse, fuse holder or wire is bad or connection
corroded.
> If you have power there, then with the red lead on terminals 1,2,3
you
> should not read voltage until you switch the start switch. With the
start
> switch held in the start position you should have 12 vdc on 1,2,and
3.
> Terminal 4 is the common or ground, Terminal 5, we are going to
check if C
> relay is pulling in. With the red lead on Terminal 5, switch the
start and
> if you have power then C relay is pulling in. This also checks the
normally
> closed contacts of the CR (110vac) relay. Terminal 6 is the pre
heat
> switch. Terminal 7 there is no connection. We will stop there for
now,
> because you should have proved there is power somewhere in the
above. If
> not then we will do a diode check on 4 diodes. The diodes, in this
case,
> will be square body units about 1/4 inch or so square with two tabs
on each
> end.
>
> So do those checks above first then we can go on after we find out
where it
> is or is not.
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> 84FC35
> Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
>
> At 03:22 PM 5/28/2007 +0000, you wrote:
> >Ralph,
> >
> >I checked the voltage on the small terminal on the starter
solenoid.
> >0 vdc, when I hit the start switch. Next step please?
> >
> >Tom Sorrentino
> >1987 PT38
> >Bedford Hills, NY
> >
> >
>
Tom:
With 0 vdc on 5 tells me that C relay is not picking up, so I am going to
say it is time to replace the C relay or check the wiring going to it. Be
sure to use a Bosh relay not one that you can get from radio shack made in
china. Terminal 5 is the wire going to the starter solenoid. Bet you could
jumper from a hot 12 vdc source to the terminal strip 5 and it will start
while holding the start switch, it it does start then you know it is C relay.
Ralph
At 08:05 PM 5/28/2007 +0000, you wrote:
>Ralph,
>
>ok I'm done painting now! My wife thought painting was more important
>than fixing the generator LOL!
>
>not pushing start switch pushing start switch
>P=12 vdc
>1=0 vdc 1=0 vdc
>2=0 vdc 2=0 vdc
>3=12 vdc 3=0 vdc
>5=0 vdc 5=0 vdc
>
>All wires and connections look good. There is a faint smell of burnt
>electrical, when I took off control box cover.
>
>Tom Sorrentino
>1987 PT38
>Bedford Hills, NY
>
>--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
>
wrote:
> >
> > Morning Tom:
> >
> > Did you remove the wire from the post and check it as well? OK I
>know this
> > is redundant but double check the fuse holder to be sure a wire is
>not
> > burned off inside the control box. Next remove the top off the
>control box
> > and locate the terminal strip in the bottom of the box. Now make a
>drawing
> > of the terminal strip so you can make check marks as you do
>electrical
> > measurements. The terminal strip from left to right is
> > P,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,20,34,35,55
> >
> > Set your meter, with the fuse in place, to dc volts, and put the
>black lead
> > of your meter with an jumper clip lead to ground. The do your
>measurements
> > with the red lead. You should have 12vdc on the terminal strip
>marked P. If
> > no 12 vdc then the fuse, fuse holder or wire is bad or connection
>corroded.
> > If you have power there, then with the red lead on terminals 1,2,3
>you
> > should not read voltage until you switch the start switch. With the
>start
> > switch held in the start position you should have 12 vdc on 1,2,and
>3.
> > Terminal 4 is the common or ground, Terminal 5, we are going to
>check if C
> > relay is pulling in. With the red lead on Terminal 5, switch the
>start and
> > if you have power then C relay is pulling in. This also checks the
>normally
> > closed contacts of the CR (110vac) relay. Terminal 6 is the pre
>heat
> > switch. Terminal 7 there is no connection. We will stop there for
>now,
> > because you should have proved there is power somewhere in the
>above. If
> > not then we will do a diode check on 4 diodes. The diodes, in this
>case,
> > will be square body units about 1/4 inch or so square with two tabs
>on each
> > end.
> >
> > So do those checks above first then we can go on after we find out
>where it
> > is or is not.
> >
> > Safe travels,
> >
> > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > 84FC35
> > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> >
> > At 03:22 PM 5/28/2007 +0000, you wrote:
> > >Ralph,
> > >
> > >I checked the voltage on the small terminal on the starter
>solenoid.
> > >0 vdc, when I hit the start switch. Next step please?
> > >
> > >Tom Sorrentino
> > >1987 PT38
> > >Bedford Hills, NY
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
Safe travels,
Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
'84 FC35
Duncan, Oklahoma
If you were sitting in the driveway, I would think that on the road, the
temps would drop, a bit.
Ernie Ekberg
83PT40
Livingston, Mt
************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ralph,
OK It's fixed!! I hate to admit how stupid I was, but here goes. I
was looking how to remove the C relay, moving some wires around and
noticed the wire on the P terminal moved freely. It took quite a few
turns to tighten it up. Apparantly it was very loose. All other
terminal screws were fine and all start switches work fine now also.
Thank you for all your help and sorry I didn't look at that more
closely in the beginning.
p.s. It's still running at about 210 degrees fully loaded, does that
seem ok?
Tom Sorrentino
1987 PT38
Bedford Hills, NY
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
>
> Tom:
>
> With 0 vdc on 5 tells me that C relay is not picking up, so I am
going to
> say it is time to replace the C relay or check the wiring going to
it. Be
> sure to use a Bosh relay not one that you can get from radio shack
made in
> china. Terminal 5 is the wire going to the starter solenoid. Bet
you could
> jumper from a hot 12 vdc source to the terminal strip 5 and it
will start
> while holding the start switch, it it does start then you know it
is C relay.
>
> Ralph
>
> At 08:05 PM 5/28/2007 +0000, you wrote:
> >Ralph,
> >
> >ok I'm done painting now! My wife thought painting was more
important
> >than fixing the generator LOL!
> >
> >not pushing start switch pushing start switch
> >P=12 vdc
> >1=0 vdc 1=0 vdc
> >2=0 vdc 2=0 vdc
> >3=12 vdc 3=0 vdc
> >5=0 vdc 5=0 vdc
> >
> >All wires and connections look good. There is a faint smell of
burnt
> >electrical, when I took off control box cover.
> >
> >Tom Sorrentino
> >1987 PT38
> >Bedford Hills, NY
> >
> >--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Morning Tom:
> > >
> > > Did you remove the wire from the post and check it as well? OK
I
> >know this
> > > is redundant but double check the fuse holder to be sure a
wire is
> >not
> > > burned off inside the control box. Next remove the top off the
> >control box
> > > and locate the terminal strip in the bottom of the box. Now
make a
> >drawing
> > > of the terminal strip so you can make check marks as you do
> >electrical
> > > measurements. The terminal strip from left to right is
> > > P,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,20,34,35,55
> > >
> > > Set your meter, with the fuse in place, to dc volts, and put
the
> >black lead
> > > of your meter with an jumper clip lead to ground. The do your
> >measurements
> > > with the red lead. You should have 12vdc on the terminal strip
> >marked P. If
> > > no 12 vdc then the fuse, fuse holder or wire is bad or
connection
> >corroded.
> > > If you have power there, then with the red lead on terminals
1,2,3
> >you
> > > should not read voltage until you switch the start switch.
With the
> >start
> > > switch held in the start position you should have 12 vdc on
1,2,and
> >3.
> > > Terminal 4 is the common or ground, Terminal 5, we are going to
> >check if C
> > > relay is pulling in. With the red lead on Terminal 5, switch
the
> >start and
> > > if you have power then C relay is pulling in. This also checks
the
> >normally
> > > closed contacts of the CR (110vac) relay. Terminal 6 is the pre
> >heat
> > > switch. Terminal 7 there is no connection. We will stop there
for
> >now,
> > > because you should have proved there is power somewhere in the
> >above. If
> > > not then we will do a diode check on 4 diodes. The diodes, in
this
> >case,
> > > will be square body units about 1/4 inch or so square with two
tabs
> >on each
> > > end.
> > >
> > > So do those checks above first then we can go on after we find
out
> >where it
> > > is or is not.
> > >
> > > Safe travels,
> > >
> > > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > > 84FC35
> > > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > >
> > > At 03:22 PM 5/28/2007 +0000, you wrote:
> > > >Ralph,
> > > >
> > > >I checked the voltage on the small terminal on the starter
> >solenoid.
> > > >0 vdc, when I hit the start switch. Next step please?
> > > >
> > > >Tom Sorrentino
> > > >1987 PT38
> > > >Bedford Hills, NY
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> '84 FC35
> Duncan, Oklahoma
>
I've been following this thread with great interest. I'm happy you got her
going, thanks to Ralph. I have a Kubota engine on mine with 160 degree
thermostat. It runs 160 degrees all the time. Two years ago I went through the
total cooling system, hoses the whole nine yards. No problems now.
Leroy Eckert
1990WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
Niceville, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas_sorrentino
To:
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 6:44 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Another generator problem? Two questions?
Ralph,
OK It's fixed!! I hate to admit how stupid I was, but here goes. I
was looking how to remove the C relay, moving some wires around and
noticed the wire on the P terminal moved freely. It took quite a few
turns to tighten it up. Apparantly it was very loose. All other
terminal screws were fine and all start switches work fine now also.
Thank you for all your help and sorry I didn't look at that more
closely in the beginning.
p.s. It's still running at about 210 degrees fully loaded, does that
seem ok?
Tom Sorrentino
1987 PT38
Bedford Hills, NY
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
>
> Tom:
>
> With 0 vdc on 5 tells me that C relay is not picking up, so I am
going to
> say it is time to replace the C relay or check the wiring going to
it. Be
> sure to use a Bosh relay not one that you can get from radio shack
made in
> china. Terminal 5 is the wire going to the starter solenoid. Bet
you could
> jumper from a hot 12 vdc source to the terminal strip 5 and it
will start
> while holding the start switch, it it does start then you know it
is C relay.
>
> Ralph
>
> At 08:05 PM 5/28/2007 +0000, you wrote:
> >Ralph,
> >
> >ok I'm done painting now! My wife thought painting was more
important
> >than fixing the generator LOL!
> >
> >not pushing start switch pushing start switch
> >P=12 vdc
> >1=0 vdc 1=0 vdc
> >2=0 vdc 2=0 vdc
> >3=12 vdc 3=0 vdc
> >5=0 vdc 5=0 vdc
> >
> >All wires and connections look good. There is a faint smell of
burnt
> >electrical, when I took off control box cover.
> >
> >Tom Sorrentino
> >1987 PT38
> >Bedford Hills, NY
> >
> >--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Morning Tom:
> > >
> > > Did you remove the wire from the post and check it as well? OK
I
> >know this
> > > is redundant but double check the fuse holder to be sure a
wire is
> >not
> > > burned off inside the control box. Next remove the top off the
> >control box
> > > and locate the terminal strip in the bottom of the box. Now
make a
> >drawing
> > > of the terminal strip so you can make check marks as you do
> >electrical
> > > measurements. The terminal strip from left to right is
> > > P,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,20,34,35,55
> > >
> > > Set your meter, with the fuse in place, to dc volts, and put
the
> >black lead
> > > of your meter with an jumper clip lead to ground. The do your
> >measurements
> > > with the red lead. You should have 12vdc on the terminal strip
> >marked P. If
> > > no 12 vdc then the fuse, fuse holder or wire is bad or
connection
> >corroded.
> > > If you have power there, then with the red lead on terminals
1,2,3
> >you
> > > should not read voltage until you switch the start switch.
With the
> >start
> > > switch held in the start position you should have 12 vdc on
1,2,and
> >3.
> > > Terminal 4 is the common or ground, Terminal 5, we are going to
> >check if C
> > > relay is pulling in. With the red lead on Terminal 5, switch
the
> >start and
> > > if you have power then C relay is pulling in. This also checks
the
> >normally
> > > closed contacts of the CR (110vac) relay. Terminal 6 is the pre
> >heat
> > > switch. Terminal 7 there is no connection. We will stop there
for
> >now,
> > > because you should have proved there is power somewhere in the
> >above. If
> > > not then we will do a diode check on 4 diodes. The diodes, in
this
> >case,
> > > will be square body units about 1/4 inch or so square with two
tabs
> >on each
> > > end.
> > >
> > > So do those checks above first then we can go on after we find
out
> >where it
> > > is or is not.
> > >
> > > Safe travels,
> > >
> > > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > > 84FC35
> > > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > >
> > > At 03:22 PM 5/28/2007 +0000, you wrote:
> > > >Ralph,
> > > >
> > > >I checked the voltage on the small terminal on the starter
> >solenoid.
> > > >0 vdc, when I hit the start switch. Next step please?
> > > >
> > > >Tom Sorrentino
> > > >1987 PT38
> > > >Bedford Hills, NY
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> '84 FC35
> Duncan, Oklahoma
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I have the Yanmar motor with the Kohler gen. According to the book
the high temp. shutdown is 230. Today wasn't that hot but running
with 3 A/C's, temp was around 210. Since I haven't had this coach in
the heat of a summer, I was just wondering what other people with
the same setup consider normal?
Tom Sorrentino
1987 PT38
Bedford Hills, NY
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, erniecarpet@... wrote:
>
> Tom- do you have the Perkins generator? If so mine runs a little
over 150
> degrees.
>
> Ernie Ekberg
> 83PT40
> Livingston, Mt
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Great Tom, good find. I had to assume the relay coil was suspect since the
power at P was good. Another thing is good out of this, now we also know
what shut the running gen set down in the first place. It is good to fix
the present problem, but after that one needs to question the why.
On the temp. question? is your cooling fan running full speed? And I would
check the actual temp, the sender could be off or the gauge.
Leroy has a better idea on that having been there done that.
Safe travels,
Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
84FC35
Duncan, Oklahoma
At 11:44 PM 5/28/2007 +0000, you wrote:
>Ralph,
>
>OK It's fixed!! I hate to admit how stupid I was, but here goes. I
>was looking how to remove the C relay, moving some wires around and
>noticed the wire on the P terminal moved freely. It took quite a few
>turns to tighten it up. Apparantly it was very loose. All other
>terminal screws were fine and all start switches work fine now also.
>Thank you for all your help and sorry I didn't look at that more
>closely in the beginning.
>p.s. It's still running at about 210 degrees fully loaded, does that
>seem ok?
>
>Tom Sorrentino
>1987 PT38
>Bedford Hills, NY
>
>
>
>
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> wrote:
> >
> > Tom:
> >
> > With 0 vdc on 5 tells me that C relay is not picking up, so I am
>going to
> > say it is time to replace the C relay or check the wiring going to
>it. Be
> > sure to use a Bosh relay not one that you can get from radio shack
>made in
> > china. Terminal 5 is the wire going to the starter solenoid. Bet
>you could
> > jumper from a hot 12 vdc source to the terminal strip 5 and it
>will start
> > while holding the start switch, it it does start then you know it
>is C relay.
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> > At 08:05 PM 5/28/2007 +0000, you wrote:
> > >Ralph,
> > >
> > >ok I'm done painting now! My wife thought painting was more
>important
> > >than fixing the generator LOL!
> > >
> > >not pushing start switch pushing start switch
> > >P=12 vdc
> > >1=0 vdc 1=0 vdc
> > >2=0 vdc 2=0 vdc
> > >3=12 vdc 3=0 vdc
> > >5=0 vdc 5=0 vdc
> > >
> > >All wires and connections look good. There is a faint smell of
>burnt
> > >electrical, when I took off control box cover.
> > >
> > >Tom Sorrentino
> > >1987 PT38
> > >Bedford Hills, NY
>