Wanderlodge Gurus - The Member Funded Wanderlodge Forum - 1980 35FC won't start via the ignition, please help

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John, I wonder if your ignition key switch is bad?

Ernie Ekberg
83PT40
Livingston, Mt

************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

John I had a problem like that a couple of years ago & & couldn't figure
it out till I was under the coach & did the same as you did. When I touched
the solenoid a 14 gauge wire coming from a fuse block in the engine
compartment dropped off the solenoid. It was completely corroded off. We had
just
returned from AZ couple of months before that.
Don
89 SP 36'
Butler, PA

The name showing is Adria, who is my fair and lovely bride. I
hijacked her ID to ask for help and my name is John.

I'm more of a lurker than anything else, and I HAVE used the search
function and done some reading, but I still need some help very
badly. Please help if you can.

We have a 1980 35FC. The batteries are new and charged, but when you
hit the key there is nothing going on. My hots and grounds are good
at the starter, but not at the solenoid when the key is in the start
position. I was able to start it by jumping the hot over to the
solenoid and despite having just been sitting there for MONTHS, the
ole sweetie fired right up and just purred like a sewing machine.

So, I've since spoken with a few people who thought that it could be
a neutral safety switch on the trans. Remembering my dad had a
similar problem on an old motorhome he had, I used his method and
ran the shifter back and forth about 30 times in a lazy man's
attempt to gain a conection at said switch. Much to nobody's
surprise, that did not help.

I opened up the panel at nose of the bus (by my feet) and I see that
there is the most wonderful rainbow of wiring I could have ever
expected, and 3 or 4 solenoids down there as well. All those
solenoids show to be hot on all posts except for the ones that are
supposed to be ground.

The scematic, although in greek, shows fuses and circuit breakers.
I gather that the wiring in the nose is what it's referring to as
the circuit breakers, but with the key on - every one of them shows
hot as I would have expected, and I cannot for the LIFE of me locate
a fuse panel for the chassis.

As you know, there are a few fuses in the battery area, a few in the
overhead area, and I can't find any others.

So now that you know a little about what I have going on, I would
GREATLY appreciate any and all advice you kind folks could offer.

I'm told that there is a relay that comes BEFORE the starter
solenoid, but I can't seem to locate it - or even if I was staring
at it, I wouldn't know what it is. DO you know where it is and/or
how to check it?

Please don't laugh, but is there even a chassis fuse panel for me to
check a starter fuse on - or is that about as "noob" as saying that
I can't find the carburator under the hood? If there IS a fuse
panel - where, in the name of all things holy, are they hiding the
dang thing??!! Smile

I really need to get this baby going via the key ASAP. We have
Memorial day reservations and I'd rather not have to hotwire it to
go to and from - but if it's between that and telling the wife and
kids that we aren't going camping, you know I'll be under there rain
or shine.

I'm sure that the end solution to this problem will most likely be
laughable, but until then, I really need help and it doesn't seem
very amusing just yet. Thanks in advance and I will try to reply
ASAP with any return questions that you may have for me.

Peace,
John

************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The name showing is Adria, who is my fair and lovely bride. I
hijacked her ID to ask for help and my name is John.

I'm more of a lurker than anything else, and I HAVE used the search
function and done some reading, but I still need some help very
badly. Please help if you can.

We have a 1980 35FC. The batteries are new and charged, but when you
hit the key there is nothing going on. My hots and grounds are good
at the starter, but not at the solenoid when the key is in the start
position. I was able to start it by jumping the hot over to the
solenoid and despite having just been sitting there for MONTHS, the
ole sweetie fired right up and just purred like a sewing machine.

So, I've since spoken with a few people who thought that it could be
a neutral safety switch on the trans. Remembering my dad had a
similar problem on an old motorhome he had, I used his method and
ran the shifter back and forth about 30 times in a lazy man's
attempt to gain a conection at said switch. Much to nobody's
surprise, that did not help.

I opened up the panel at nose of the bus (by my feet) and I see that
there is the most wonderful rainbow of wiring I could have ever
expected, and 3 or 4 solenoids down there as well. All those
solenoids show to be hot on all posts except for the ones that are
supposed to be ground.

The scematic, although in greek, shows fuses and circuit breakers.
I gather that the wiring in the nose is what it's referring to as
the circuit breakers, but with the key on - every one of them shows
hot as I would have expected, and I cannot for the LIFE of me locate
a fuse panel for the chassis.

As you know, there are a few fuses in the battery area, a few in the
overhead area, and I can't find any others.

So now that you know a little about what I have going on, I would
GREATLY appreciate any and all advice you kind folks could offer.

I'm told that there is a relay that comes BEFORE the starter
solenoid, but I can't seem to locate it - or even if I was staring
at it, I wouldn't know what it is. DO you know where it is and/or
how to check it?

Please don't laugh, but is there even a chassis fuse panel for me to
check a starter fuse on - or is that about as "noob" as saying that
I can't find the carburator under the hood? If there IS a fuse
panel - where, in the name of all things holy, are they hiding the
dang thing??!! Smile

Morning John:

Try switching the A/T switch in the center of the lower upper dash panel.

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
84FC35
Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma

At 01:16 PM 5/17/2007 +0000, you wrote:
>The name showing is Adria, who is my fair and lovely bride. I
>hijacked her ID to ask for help and my name is John.
>
>I'm more of a lurker than anything else, and I HAVE used the search
>function and done some reading, but I still need some help very
>badly. Please help if you can.
>
>We have a 1980 35FC. The batteries are new and charged, but when you
>hit the key there is nothing going on. My hots and grounds are good
>at the starter, but not at the solenoid when the key is in the start
>position. I was able to start it by jumping the hot over to the
>solenoid and despite having just been sitting there for MONTHS, the
>ole sweetie fired right up and just purred like a sewing machine.
>
>So, I've since spoken with a few people who thought that it could be
>a neutral safety switch on the trans. Remembering my dad had a
>similar problem on an old motorhome he had, I used his method and
>ran the shifter back and forth about 30 times in a lazy man's
>attempt to gain a conection at said switch. Much to nobody's
>surprise, that did not help.
>
>I opened up the panel at nose of the bus (by my feet) and I see that
>there is the most wonderful rainbow of wiring I could have ever
>expected, and 3 or 4 solenoids down there as well. All those
>solenoids show to be hot on all posts except for the ones that are
>supposed to be ground.
>
>The scematic, although in greek, shows fuses and circuit breakers.
>I gather that the wiring in the nose is what it's referring to as
>the circuit breakers, but with the key on - every one of them shows
>hot as I would have expected, and I cannot for the LIFE of me locate
>a fuse panel for the chassis.
>
>As you know, there are a few fuses in the battery area, a few in the
>overhead area, and I can't find any others.
>
>So now that you know a little about what I have going on, I would
>GREATLY appreciate any and all advice you kind folks could offer.
>
>I'm told that there is a relay that comes BEFORE the starter
>solenoid, but I can't seem to locate it - or even if I was staring
>at it, I wouldn't know what it is. DO you know where it is and/or
>how to check it?
>
>Please don't laugh, but is there even a chassis fuse panel for me to
>check a starter fuse on - or is that about as "noob" as saying that
>I can't find the carburator under the hood? If there IS a fuse
>panel - where, in the name of all things holy, are they hiding the
>dang thing??!! Smile

>
>I really need to get this baby going via the key ASAP. We have
>Memorial day reservations and I'd rather not have to hotwire it to
>go to and from - but if it's between that and telling the wife and
>kids that we aren't going camping, you know I'll be under there rain
>or shine.
>
>I'm sure that the end solution to this problem will most likely be
>laughable, but until then, I really need help and it doesn't seem
>very amusing just yet. Thanks in advance and I will try to reply
>ASAP with any return questions that you may have for me.
>
>Peace,
>John
>
>
>

Center Lower Upper - GOT IT!! Big Grin

I'll try that as soon as I get home. I looked for switches that
looked to be the wrong way, but I could have missed it, and it's very
possible one of the kids could have clicked it for me.

Thanks. Lets hope that's it! Until then, I'd still love to hear
other plans of attack if it isn't.

Peace,
John

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
>
> Morning John:
>
> Try switching the A/T switch in the center of the lower upper dash
panel.
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> 84FC35
> Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma

Don,

Thank you. I have been looking all over for something obvious like an
eyelet without a wire, etc. I have no idea where ANY fuse block is,
but I did give the solenoid wire a tug, and it's secure - and none of
the wires behind the flip out nose door have any corrosion at all. I
checked every single post there and they were ALL hot with the key on.

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, dspithaler@... wrote:
>
> John I had a problem like that a couple of years ago & &
couldn't figure
> it out till I was under the coach & did the same as you did. When I
touched
> the solenoid a 14 gauge wire coming from a fuse block in the engine
> compartment dropped off the solenoid. It was completely corroded
off. We had just
> returned from AZ couple of months before that.
> Don
> 89 SP 36'
> Butler, PA

Have you tried th A/T Switch?

Jim Riordan
88 WBWL XXV
Stuart, Fl.

Adria Haynes <mrbeebody@...> wrote:
The name showing is Adria, who is my fair and lovely bride. I
hijacked her ID to ask for help and my name is John.

I'm more of a lurker than anything else, and I HAVE used the search
function and done some reading, but I still need some help very
badly. Please help if you can.

We have a 1980 35FC. The batteries are new and charged, but when you
hit the key there is nothing going on. My hots and grounds are good
at the starter, but not at the solenoid when the key is in the start
position. I was able to start it by jumping the hot over to the
solenoid and despite having just been sitting there for MONTHS, the
ole sweetie fired right up and just purred like a sewing machine.

So, I've since spoken with a few people who thought that it could be
a neutral safety switch on the trans. Remembering my dad had a
similar problem on an old motorhome he had, I used his method and
ran the shifter back and forth about 30 times in a lazy man's
attempt to gain a conection at said switch. Much to nobody's
surprise, that did not help.

I opened up the panel at nose of the bus (by my feet) and I see that
there is the most wonderful rainbow of wiring I could have ever
expected, and 3 or 4 solenoids down there as well. All those
solenoids show to be hot on all posts except for the ones that are
supposed to be ground.

The scematic, although in greek, shows fuses and circuit breakers.
I gather that the wiring in the nose is what it's referring to as
the circuit breakers, but with the key on - every one of them shows
hot as I would have expected, and I cannot for the LIFE of me locate
a fuse panel for the chassis.

As you know, there are a few fuses in the battery area, a few in the
overhead area, and I can't find any others.

So now that you know a little about what I have going on, I would
GREATLY appreciate any and all advice you kind folks could offer.

I'm told that there is a relay that comes BEFORE the starter
solenoid, but I can't seem to locate it - or even if I was staring
at it, I wouldn't know what it is. DO you know where it is and/or
how to check it?

Please don't laugh, but is there even a chassis fuse panel for me to
check a starter fuse on - or is that about as "noob" as saying that
I can't find the carburator under the hood? If there IS a fuse
panel - where, in the name of all things holy, are they hiding the
dang thing??!! Smile

I really need to get this baby going via the key ASAP. We have
Memorial day reservations and I'd rather not have to hotwire it to
go to and from - but if it's between that and telling the wife and
kids that we aren't going camping, you know I'll be under there rain
or shine.

I'm sure that the end solution to this problem will most likely be
laughable, but until then, I really need help and it doesn't seem
very amusing just yet. Thanks in advance and I will try to reply
ASAP with any return questions that you may have for me.

Peace,
John

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

That there solinoid/relay on the frame rail is critical to provide enough
amperage to the cylindrical soliniod on top of the starter. The automotive key
switch will not cycle the starter, the relay is required.
MH
----- Original Message -----
From: dspithaler@...
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 7:49 AM
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] 1980 35FC won't start via the ignition, please
help

John I had a problem like that a couple of years ago & & couldn't figure
it out till I was under the coach & did the same as you did. When I touched
the solenoid a 14 gauge wire coming from a fuse block in the engine
compartment dropped off the solenoid. It was completely corroded off. We had
just
returned from AZ couple of months before that.
Don
89 SP 36'
Butler, PA

The name showing is Adria, who is my fair and lovely bride. I
hijacked her ID to ask for help and my name is John.

I'm more of a lurker than anything else, and I HAVE used the search
function and done some reading, but I still need some help very
badly. Please help if you can.

We have a 1980 35FC. The batteries are new and charged, but when you
hit the key there is nothing going on. My hots and grounds are good
at the starter, but not at the solenoid when the key is in the start
position. I was able to start it by jumping the hot over to the
solenoid and despite having just been sitting there for MONTHS, the
ole sweetie fired right up and just purred like a sewing machine.

So, I've since spoken with a few people who thought that it could be
a neutral safety switch on the trans. Remembering my dad had a
similar problem on an old motorhome he had, I used his method and
ran the shifter back and forth about 30 times in a lazy man's
attempt to gain a conection at said switch. Much to nobody's
surprise, that did not help.

I opened up the panel at nose of the bus (by my feet) and I see that
there is the most wonderful rainbow of wiring I could have ever
expected, and 3 or 4 solenoids down there as well. All those
solenoids show to be hot on all posts except for the ones that are
supposed to be ground.

The scematic, although in greek, shows fuses and circuit breakers.
I gather that the wiring in the nose is what it's referring to as
the circuit breakers, but with the key on - every one of them shows
hot as I would have expected, and I cannot for the LIFE of me locate
a fuse panel for the chassis.

As you know, there are a few fuses in the battery area, a few in the
overhead area, and I can't find any others.

So now that you know a little about what I have going on, I would
GREATLY appreciate any and all advice you kind folks could offer.

I'm told that there is a relay that comes BEFORE the starter
solenoid, but I can't seem to locate it - or even if I was staring
at it, I wouldn't know what it is. DO you know where it is and/or
how to check it?

Please don't laugh, but is there even a chassis fuse panel for me to
check a starter fuse on - or is that about as "noob" as saying that
I can't find the carburator under the hood? If there IS a fuse
panel - where, in the name of all things holy, are they hiding the
dang thing??!! Smile

John since you have done to obvious you will now have to trace the
problem out. I would start by bypassing the neutral saftery switch
on the transmission. A jumper with aligator clips is the simplist way
to do this. Be very careful getting under the bus. Do not rely ont
the air bags or jacks. If that does not do it then you will need to
trace out the problem. To save pulling the Ignition switch out
prematuraly use a test light or multimeter. have someone hold the key
over and see if you get voltage on either side of the neutral safety
switch. If you have power there than the problem is the connection
to from the neutral saftey harness to the solinoid. If you do not
have power there then I would suspect that your ignition switch has
given up the ghost. Run a continuity test across the neutral safety
switch to make certain that it is good. Then put the wires back on
it. Remove the ignition switch so that you can get to the back of it.
Leave the wires on it. Try jumping from the battery side to the
stater side of the switch if she turns over you have a bad switch.
If not you missed something underneath. One last thought... Pull the
dash and make sure you are getting a circut throught the A/T switch.

Good Luck

Jim
83 FC
Yorba Linda, ca
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Adria Haynes"
<mrbeebody@...> wrote:
>
> Don,
>
> Thank you. I have been looking all over for something obvious like
an
> eyelet without a wire, etc. I have no idea where ANY fuse block is,
> but I did give the solenoid wire a tug, and it's secure - and none
of
> the wires behind the flip out nose door have any corrosion at all.
I
> checked every single post there and they were ALL hot with the key
on.
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, dspithaler@ wrote:
> >
> > John I had a problem like that a couple of years ago & &
> couldn't figure
> > it out till I was under the coach & did the same as you did.
When I
> touched
> > the solenoid a 14 gauge wire coming from a fuse block in the
engine
> > compartment dropped off the solenoid. It was completely corroded
> off. We had just
> > returned from AZ couple of months before that.
> > Don
> > 89 SP 36'
> > Butler, PA
>

Thanks Jim, Great tips and help - I'll try to give those a try. Can
you give me a quick heads up as to where the neutral safety switch
is at on the tranny?

Expecting to have to be under theere again, when I started it via
hotwire last time, I let it run until the suspension fully aired up.
I then stacked 4x4 wood beams under the frame, and in the day that
followed - as the bags let out - it settled nicely on the wood - so
I do feel very safe under there.

Also, again - is there or is there NOT a chassis fuse panel, and if
so, where can I find it?

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bluebird3208"
wrote:
>
> John since you have done to obvious you will now have to trace the
> problem out. I would start by bypassing the neutral saftery
switch
> on the transmission. A jumper with aligator clips is the simplist
way
> to do this. Be very careful getting under the bus. Do not rely
ont
> the air bags or jacks. If that does not do it then you will need
to
> trace out the problem. To save pulling the Ignition switch out
> prematuraly use a test light or multimeter. have someone hold the
key
> over and see if you get voltage on either side of the neutral
safety
> switch. If you have power there than the problem is the
connection
> to from the neutral saftey harness to the solinoid. If you do not
> have power there then I would suspect that your ignition switch
has
> given up the ghost. Run a continuity test across the neutral
safety
> switch to make certain that it is good. Then put the wires back on
> it. Remove the ignition switch so that you can get to the back of
it.
> Leave the wires on it. Try jumping from the battery side to the
> stater side of the switch if she turns over you have a bad
switch.
> If not you missed something underneath. One last thought... Pull
the
> dash and make sure you are getting a circut throught the A/T
switch.
>
> Good Luck
>
> Jim
> 83 FC
> Yorba Linda, ca
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Adria Haynes"
> <mrbeebody@> wrote:

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Wanderlodge Gurus - The Member Funded Wanderlodge Forum

erniecarpet@...

dspithaler@...

Adria Haynes

Ralph L. Fullenwider

Adria Haynes

Adria Haynes

jim riordan

Mike Hohnstein

bluebird3208

Adria Haynes