The tank is full. There is no power to the (original equipment)gas
detector or it is simply broken? Where does the power for the detector
originate? Can it be tested? Or repaired? Where should I start
looking to get the system going?
Thanks, Keith
Keith,
Some things to start with...
Step 1: Check for burned out fuses. Use a 12V test light and check all
the fuses in the 12V panel(s). Be sure to probe both ends of each fuse.
Replace the bad one(s). If this resolves the power issue you are good to
go, skip step 2 & 3.
Step 2: Locate the circuit by doing a continuity test using a meter that
"beeps" when continuity is made. Disconnect the power wire at the
detector. Hook up one meter probe to that disconnected wire. Hook up the
other meter probe to a long test wire (you may need to make one up (long
wire and a clip on each end). Start probing the 12V panel(s) feed side.
When you hear a "beep"you know that is the circuit. Now test the other
side of that fuse. Continuity should be there if the fuse is good. That
tells you the circuit is good. If no continuity is found the circuit is
bad, or the circuit was not located, go to step 3.
Step 3: Using the test lead that you made in step 2, connect one end to
a good 12V supply. Hook the other end to the detector. If the detector
powers up you again know the circuit that is suppose to feed that
detector is bad or it was not found. May be that a new circuit is needed
or find the circuit problem and correct it. If the detector does not
power I'd say it's defective and time for a new detector.
Hope this helps.
Curt Sprenger
1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
Anaheim Hills, Calif.
Keith Strehle wrote:
> The tank is full. There is no power to the (original equipment)gas
> detector or it is simply broken? Where does the power for the detector
> originate? Can it be tested? Or repaired? Where should I start
> looking to get the system going?
>
> Thanks, Keith
>
>