Kevin,
The first thing is for us to locate a source for replacement
brushes because they are probably worn out and you don't want to do
the job twice.
The heater needs to be removed from the coach so the first thing
is to unscrew the vent on the outside and pull it out to slip it off
the exhaust (upper) tube. The vent has a tube permanently attached
which fits tightly over the exhaust tube on the heater. There is a
good possability that it is rusted and may not be easy to get off.
If you are able to seperate the vent tube from the exhaust tube,
you are ready to remove the heater from the coach. On mine the front
covers were attached to the heater with latches. Once the front
cover is removed there are two screws securing the heater to the
floor. Take out these screws. Next there is the propane connection.
you need to locate the valve for the heater. My valves were as
follows:
Bedroom: beside the heater
Kitchen: beside the heater
Living room: beside the Kitchen heater
Turn off the valve and disconnect the line (on the heater side of
the valve**)
Once this is done you can lift the heater out. Now to the blower.
There is one screw that holds the heater in the case, it is located
at the front and should be obvious. Remove the screw and slide the
heater out of the case, you will need to remove the propane
connection entering the side of the heater and tuck the electircal
connecter inside.
The blower has two sections, one to circulate the air in the coach
through the heater, and a smaller one to circulate fresh air into
the combustion chamber and force the products of combustion out the
exhaust port on the outside. There are 4 screws that hold the cover
on the end of the blower. remove them and remove the cover. There
are now three long screws that attach the combustion air plenum and
blower motor to the blower housing. Remove these and you can remove
the motor with the ait plenum and double squirl cage for the coach
air attached.
Now remove the squirocage fans from the motor. Since the small
squirlcage fan pulls in outside air it is most likley rusted and may
be difficult to remove from the motor shaft.
Now, at last, you have the motor. There are two screws that hold
the two end plates on. Temove the screws and pull the front plate
off (the one at the opposite end of where the wires enter. Now with
the palm of your hand, oush on the end of the motor shaft to force
the rear cover off the housing, ou need to overcome the force of the
magnet to get the armature to move out of the housing.
How you have the armature still inserted in the rear housing with
the brush plate attached. At this point you can assess the
condition of the brushes and armature and determine if the armature
needs to be turned to produce a clean surface for new brushes. At
this point you are on your own. You need to find a small motor
repair shop that can recondition the armature and supply new brushes
if needed.
If the armature and brushes are OK, then you can clean off the
motor shafts and bearings and lube them up. I don't know what is the
right stuff, but I used some motor oil which should hold until I
find a source for the brushes and can do the job right.
Now, put it back togeather. You may need to do some aligning of
the motor in the motor clamp to get the squirel cages centered in
the housings, but take your time and it will be OK.
If I have some time I will take a few photos of an old heater I have
to illustrate what I described. But that may be a while.
Was that long enough?
Gardner
78FC33
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, krminyl@... wrote:
>
> Gardner,
>
> All three of my LP heaters make a racket (squeeking), and it's a
project
> I've been putting off for a few years (here in So Calif, I don't
use the heaters
> much). Any words of advice, or hints on removing and lubeing up
the heater
> motors? I've never done anything to the heaters but use
them...they still
> start light and heat up fine...just the squealing noise.
>
> Thanks...
>
> Kevin McKeown
> Yorba Linda, CA
> 1986 38' PT
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>