My diamond plate is held down with #14 stainless sheet metal screws
and about 2 dozen will not pull down tight. #14 is the largest size
screw I've found, so my idea is to seal the stripped ones as well as I
can and then sink a new one right next to the stripped one. Anyone got
a better idea that doesn't involve taking off the decking?
Thanks,
David Hollis 84FC35 Springfield,IL
New screw next to the stripped one, silicone in the stripped hole.
MH
----- Original Message -----
From: dthollis1961
To:
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 9:45 AM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Diamond Plate Roofing Screw Holes Stripped...84FC
My diamond plate is held down with #14 stainless sheet metal screws
and about 2 dozen will not pull down tight. #14 is the largest size
screw I've found, so my idea is to seal the stripped ones as well as I
can and then sink a new one right next to the stripped one. Anyone got
a better idea that doesn't involve taking off the decking?
Thanks,
David Hollis 84FC35 Springfield,IL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
David: Go to the local lumber yard and look at the screw selection for
screwing down metal roofing. I've used these screw's with extream
success, they also have rubber washer's on them and are different
colors and length's etc. Take the old screw and compare..... Bob 93pt
Il.
>
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "dthollis1961"
wrote:
>
> My diamond plate is held down with #14 stainless sheet metal screws
> and about 2 dozen will not pull down tight. #14 is the largest size
> screw I've found, so my idea is to seal the stripped ones as well as I
> can and then sink a new one right next to the stripped one. Anyone got
> a better idea that doesn't involve taking off the decking?
>
> Thanks,
> David Hollis 84FC35 Springfield,IL
David I would use klick nuts. Also called thread inserts. You can see
an example of these on the front of your FC where the bolts go threw
the sheet metal in to threads to hold the radiator and left and right
panels on. The thread are installed with a tool that works like a pop
rivet gun . You can drill a hole big enough through the aluminum plate
to alllow the new klick nut to pass threw then drill a whole in the
roof of the bus the right size for the Klick nut. You insert the klick
nut through the aluminum into the roof and squeez it out with the
thread setting tool. Then you can use a stainless steel bolt with a
washer and a little silicon or loctite on the threadsto pull the
aluminum down securley. This method takes longer and cost more, but
you will not have a problem with the screws stripping out again.
Jim
82 FCRB
Yorba Linda, CA
>
David later BB went away from the good SS screws you have and used 1/4"
cheap tech screws. These too loosened up over time. I have replaced all the
roof screws on three or four 90s BB with one inch long Hex Head 5/16" SS Lag
Screws. When 5/16" proved too loose or I screwed up and stripped out a hole
I then went up one notch to 3/8". I recommend you put a dob of urethane
sealant in each hole before inserting new lag screw. I used the same method,
but without any sealant, to replace all the fasteners in the goat rails as
well. Good luck.
On 27/09/06, bluebird3208 wrote:
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
> "dthollis1961"
> wrote:
> >
> > My diamond plate is held down with #14 stainless sheet metal screws
> > and about 2 dozen will not pull down tight. #14 is the largest size
> > screw I've found, so my idea is to seal the stripped ones as well as I
> > can and then sink a new one right next to the stripped one. Anyone got
> > a better idea that doesn't involve taking off the decking?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > David Hollis 84FC35 Springfield,IL
>
> David I would use klick nuts. Also called thread inserts. You can see
> an example of these on the front of your FC where the bolts go threw
> the sheet metal in to threads to hold the radiator and left and right
> panels on. The thread are installed with a tool that works like a pop
> rivet gun . You can drill a hole big enough through the aluminum plate
> to alllow the new klick nut to pass threw then drill a whole in the
> roof of the bus the right size for the Klick nut. You insert the klick
> nut through the aluminum into the roof and squeez it out with the
> thread setting tool. Then you can use a stainless steel bolt with a
> washer and a little silicon or loctite on the threadsto pull the
> aluminum down securley. This method takes longer and cost more, but
> you will not have a problem with the screws stripping out again.
>
> Jim
> 82 FCRB
> Yorba Linda, CA
> >
>
>
>
--
Rob, Sue & Merlin Robinson
94 WLWB
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
David, my diamond plate was in the same shape. i went to 1/4 inch screws- and
at 75 cents each has held the plate down. At 75 cents each- it outta hold it
down!!
Ernie Ekberg
83 PT40
Livingston, Montana
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I agree that this group is invaluable. Thanks for the replies.
David Hollis 84FC35 Springfield,IL
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "dthollis1961"
wrote:
>
> My diamond plate is held down with #14 stainless sheet metal screws
> and about 2 dozen will not pull down tight. #14 is the largest size
> screw I've found, so my idea is to seal the stripped ones as well as
I
> can and then sink a new one right next to the stripped one. Anyone
got
> a better idea that doesn't involve taking off the decking?
>
> Thanks,
> David Hollis 84FC35 Springfield,IL
>
I've got the same problem around the ladder landing. How did Blue Bird make the
attachment? I have assumed that the fasteners go into the steel roof ribs and
not just into the sheetmetal roof. ? Did BB tap/thread the roof or use threaded
inserts similar to those used on the ladder? Any help on this would be really
appreciated.
Alex Smith
82FC35
Tallahassee
dthollis1961 wrote: My
diamond plate is held down with #14 stainless sheet metal screws
and about 2 dozen will not pull down tight. #14 is the largest size
screw I've found, so my idea is to seal the stripped ones as well as I
can and then sink a new one right next to the stripped one. Anyone got
a better idea that doesn't involve taking off the decking?
Thanks,
David Hollis 84FC35 Springfield,IL
---------------------------------
All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi David,
Sorry for the late response. You've gotten some good ideas already but I wanted
to share
the advice given to me by Bennie at Wanderlodge. I've used this fix and it's
worked well
for me for a couple of years.
1. Remove stripped screws
2. Fill hole with silicone sealant
3. Replace old screw with a hex head 14 X 1-1/2" HWH T/S 18-8 S/S screw.
Bennie told me the replacement screws are larger and have a lower thread pitch
than the
factory original and tend to hold better.
Regards, Eric
84FC35SBWL2
--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "dthollis1961"
wrote:
>
> My diamond plate is held down with #14 stainless sheet metal screws
> and about 2 dozen will not pull down tight. #14 is the largest size
> screw I've found, so my idea is to seal the stripped ones as well as I
> can and then sink a new one right next to the stripped one. Anyone got
> a better idea that doesn't involve taking off the decking?
>
> Thanks,
> David Hollis 84FC35 Springfield,IL
>