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The 83 FC35 I purchased had set for some time with a full 265 of diesel
fuel. Should I use any kind of additive to kill any possible algea or
other contaminate? I replaced the Racor filter and I am still trying to
get the filter on the engine off. I have noticed alot more pick up
since the Racor change. I have been driving once a week about 20 miles
and all seems ok. Sometimes it is a little hard to start though. My
manual says not to hold the starter for more than 30 seconds..Is it
common to take up to 30 seconds to crank? The most I have had to hold
it is anywhere from right away to maybe 7 seconds...
Also, any recomendations for a coolant additive? I am not using the CAT
coolant at this time.
Thanks
Chris Reed
83 FC35 SB
Plant City, FL.

Hi Chris,

Yes, definitely; especially at this time of the year
in Florida. You can purchase "Bio-Bor" or others at
almost any Detroit engine place and sometimes a local
NAPA store will order/have it, or similar product
(can't recall name.)

Keep the fuel tank as full of fuel as possible
during humid/hot months (therefore less percentage of
tank space can contain humid air, and the less will
condense and drop to bottom of diesel and "feed"
algae.) Stay on constant lookout for 1/4" or larger,
black, "unknown chunks" that will be visible in Raycor
glass sediment bowl, and in Aqua-hot diesel filter
bowl, if applicable.

> The 83 FC35 I purchased had set for some time with a
> full 265 of diesel
> fuel. Should I use any kind of additive to kill any
> possible algea or
> other contaminate? I replaced the Racor filter and I
> am still trying to
> get the filter on the engine off.

I assume you mean the secondary fuel filter. Try
spraying an assortment of "liquid wrench" or
"PB-blaster" type aides into the mating areas of the
filter/body assembly.

> I have noticed
> alot more pick up
> since the Racor change. I have been driving once a
> week about 20 miles
> and all seems ok. Sometimes it is a little hard to
> start though. My
> manual says not to hold the starter for more than 30
> seconds..Is it
> common to take up to 30 seconds to crank? The most I
> have had to hold
> it is anywhere from right away to maybe 7 seconds...

Probably shouldn't take 30 seconds as 30 is probably
a bit hard on the starter and it needs to cool. If
the starter doesn't spin "vigorously," it may mean
some wiring has decayed, or batteries are a bit down,
etc.

> Also, any recomendations for a coolant additive? I
> am not using the CAT
> coolant at this time.

You need to consider a Nitrite additive and test
strips. Be aware you may have up to two coolant
filters and one may be buried within the sump pickup
tank. You should drain, flush, and change coolant
about 15,000 miles or 2 yrs, whichever comes first.

Lots of folks manufacture diesel coolant and some
make coolant with the additive included. For example,
Detroit Diesel "Power Cool" which contains the
additive, Nalcool, or you can add your own additive to
the coolant and both to water. Nalcool 2000 is for
soft water, Nalcool 3000 is for hard water. Be sure
to premix with water, before adding either the
additives or the coolant to the engine.

For coolant filters, Detroit Diesel makes a nifty
approx $70 gadget which will "sense" and add coolant
one time, if needed: called a "need release auto
coolant additive filter" Detroit part #23516489. Not a
necessity, but might be helpful for the forgetful like
yours truly.

John Suter
Jacksonville, FL
2000 LXi and prior PT-40's

> Thanks
> Chris Reed
> 83 FC35 SB
> Plant City, FL.
>
>
>
>


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Chris, John's advice on the money. Use the Bio-Bor. You can add
different amounts, one to "shock it" and kill the algae, and then a
maintenance amount when you add fuel. WORD TO THE WISE, if you start
this program it is good to have several primary Racor filters on
hand, the dead algae can/will clog the filter and it can be costly if
you do not have the spares to change. Simple fix if you do.

The coolant issue is another story as well and once again John is
giving you great advice. Many folks simply test their coolant for PH
and let it go at that. The REAL motor damage happens when the
nitrites and nitrates get out of line and cavitation happens inside
the motor (around corners, and in tight spots) around the cooling
veins inside the motor. Testing with Nitrite and Nitrate strips will
tell you what to do (how much additive). The PH is generally thought
as an indicator as when to change coolant, NOT keep the cavitation
from happening. I have seen PROP BURN (boat motors) where the
cavitation has completely destroyed (eaten through) a stainless steel
propeller. It can be very harmful if left go, not to mention
expensive.

ScottB
86FC35
SC

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Chris"
wrote:
>
> The 83 FC35 I purchased had set for some time with a full 265 of
diesel
> fuel. Should I use any kind of additive to kill any possible algea
or
> other contaminate? I replaced the Racor filter and I am still
trying to
> get the filter on the engine off. I have noticed alot more pick up
> since the Racor change. I have been driving once a week about 20
miles
> and all seems ok. Sometimes it is a little hard to start though. My
> manual says not to hold the starter for more than 30 seconds..Is it
> common to take up to 30 seconds to crank? The most I have had to
hold
> it is anywhere from right away to maybe 7 seconds...
> Also, any recomendations for a coolant additive? I am not using the
CAT
> coolant at this time.
> Thanks
> Chris Reed
> 83 FC35 SB
> Plant City, FL.
>

Thanks for the advice Scott and John.
When I changed my belts and hoses the old coolant was green and looked clean.
I replaced with new coolant. I hope that was a sign that the previous owner took
care of it as there were no records....
The mechanic who does some work for me said that I needed to drain the fuel
out if there was any algea...I am thinking what will I do with 265 gallons of
diesel!!!!
Glad I can treat it if there is any.. The old Racor filter was black and slick
like grease but there were no large clumps. I do not have a sight glass on mine.
While we are talking about that general area, there is a faucet with small drain
hose to the left of the Racor mounted on the wall...Any idea what that is for?
I have been told that Lucas is a good oil additive. Is it recommended to add
anything to the engine oil?
Thanks
Chris Reed
83 FC35 SB
Plant City, FL.




Scott wrote:
Chris, John's advice on the money. Use the Bio-Bor. You can add
different amounts, one to "shock it" and kill the algae, and then a
maintenance amount when you add fuel. WORD TO THE WISE, if you start
this program it is good to have several primary Racor filters on
hand, the dead algae can/will clog the filter and it can be costly if
you do not have the spares to change. Simple fix if you do.

The coolant issue is another story as well and once again John is
giving you great advice. Many folks simply test their coolant for PH
and let it go at that. The REAL motor damage happens when the
nitrites and nitrates get out of line and cavitation happens inside
the motor (around corners, and in tight spots) around the cooling
veins inside the motor. Testing with Nitrite and Nitrate strips will
tell you what to do (how much additive). The PH is generally thought
as an indicator as when to change coolant, NOT keep the cavitation
from happening. I have seen PROP BURN (boat motors) where the
cavitation has completely destroyed (eaten through) a stainless steel
propeller. It can be very harmful if left go, not to mention
expensive.

ScottB
86FC35
SC

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Chris"
wrote:
>
> The 83 FC35 I purchased had set for some time with a full 265 of
diesel
> fuel. Should I use any kind of additive to kill any possible algea
or
> other contaminate? I replaced the Racor filter and I am still
trying to
> get the filter on the engine off. I have noticed alot more pick up
> since the Racor change. I have been driving once a week about 20
miles
> and all seems ok. Sometimes it is a little hard to start though. My
> manual says not to hold the starter for more than 30 seconds..Is it
> common to take up to 30 seconds to crank? The most I have had to
hold
> it is anywhere from right away to maybe 7 seconds...
> Also, any recomendations for a coolant additive? I am not using the
CAT
> coolant at this time.
> Thanks
> Chris Reed
> 83 FC35 SB
> Plant City, FL.
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Chris,

Scott has provided you with good info about the
dangers of cavitation, which I omitted for fear of
"too much info" that might lead to confusion.
However, as the door has been opened, we don't want to
leave you and others confused about the following:

> The PH is
> generally thought
> as an indicator as when to change coolant, NOT keep
> the cavitation
> from happening.

What we are saying is, it is an error to consider
the pH an indicator to change coolant, and that
additives are designed to reduce "cavitation," which,
in over-simplified terms, is the action of air bubbles
within the coolant mixture, "exploding" against the
metallic wet- or dry-sleeve walls, "pitting them" to
the eventual point of a break-through between the
coolant side and the combustion side of the engine
block (sometimes, similarly the transmission).

A visual example might be to imagine an open pot
boiling on the stove, with the trapped air bubbles
rising against a closed lid, and then
"popping/exploding" to knock loose tiny pieces of
metal with each burst. That action is "cavitation" in
the very narrow, diesel-engine-coolant, sense of the
term.

> The mechanic who does some work for me said that I
> needed to drain the fuel out if there was any
> algea...I am thinking what will I do with 265
> gallons of diesel!!!!

Let's hope complete draining isn't necessary.

> Glad I can treat it if there is any..

What Scott pointed out was that heavy treating
"precipitates out" the algae so it can be trapped by
various filters which then will clog to the point of
blockage; therefore, have numerous replacement filters
available or you can be stranded on the road. Again,
IF you have to heavily treat.

Loosely, in small quantities, the Bio-Bor will
"dissolve/emulsify" the moisture before it can "feed"
the algae bloom to the point of a major problem.

> The old
> Racor filter was black and slick like grease but
> there were no large clumps. I do not have a sight
> glass on mine.

Not to alarm, but numerous "large clumps" stick
together to form a grease-like, black consistency.
I'd check the latest Racor filter after a few hundred
miles and see what it looks like, then form a
conclusion.

> While we are talking about that
> general area, there is a faucet with small drain
> hose to the left of the Racor mounted on the
> wall...Any idea what that is for?

If it is at a gravitational low point compared to
the Raycor, I'd have to bet it is to tap-off loose
particles. Typically, the drain is at the bottom of
the glass bowl we previously mentioned, but you may
not have one.

> I have been told that Lucas is a good oil
> additive. Is it recommended to add anything to the
> engine oil?

Someone else will have to advise on that issue.

Good luck,

John Suter



> Thanks
> Chris Reed
> 83 FC35 SB
> Plant City, FL.


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