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My entry step on my 2001 LXi stopped operating in the out position.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram / part lists.

Open to any suggestions.


If yours is like mine, two places to check: first would be the switch either on the dash or by the passenger seat that keeps it out when the key is on. The second would be the door switch that tells the mechanism what the door is doing and to operate thusly. Those wires run through the door strap that prevents the door from over opening and are folded and unfolded every time the door is used. I've had one break in my door. Mine also sometimes sticks when it's cold, but usually start working as the coach is warming up to start to travel.

Hope that helps.
Do you know if there is a point where you can bypass the relay and if if the door is where the problem is?
I’m not sure about the relay, but the wiring issue will be in the strap that goes from the door frame to the door. Mine had 2 screws holding a trim block on it and then 2 screws holding/clamping the strap to the door. Take those lose and you can slide the sheath enough to see much of the wires. You’re schematics should give you the wiring colors.
While I understand why you might think it is an electrical issue, it could very well be pneumatic. When my step did that earlier this year, it turned out to be the air powered Clippard valve that pushes the step in and out. After only 20 years it had lost seal pressure, so one day it went out and stayed out. Years of condensation in the air lines finally took its toll on the Clippard valve and the air relay valve that controls the Clippard. Replaced them all and everything works as new now. BTW, the Clippard valve is not rebuildable and they are made to order, so don’t expect a quick delivery off the shelf. The air relay requires a substitute aftermarket part, plus new air mufflers. If you need part numbers and suppliers I have them all in my maintenance log.

Thanks Mike - I appreciate the information. I am sorry for taking so long to answer - I have been gone.
Could you please send me the information and an idea of cost. Is the part easy to replace?


I'm sure Mike will be along shortly with the correct part number, but I'll say it should be very easy to change. The real caution comes in in that you're opening the air system up, which means the coach needs to be very well supported to prevent it from coming down on you. The valve is right there, just inside the moveable step platform, up under the coach. There's 3 small allen head bolts, 3 air lines and 2 electrical connection that need a phillips screwdriver to take off. I just had mine off earlier today.

This appears to be the current replacement part #A212SD-012-D. It's slightly different, but it looks like the functionality is the same. Also, Grainger has replacement pigtails for the solenoids, part #2G503, and exhaust ports, part #4ZG85 (which is the steel one, the brass ones are listed there on the side of the page), if you need either of those.

Sorry for the delay. Been busy on other projects,

The Clippard Valve is the silver air cylinder that pushes and pulls the step in and out. It has two air lines going into it from the air relay controller. It is held in place by two clevis pins, one on each end. It operates just like your air dump valves in that air goes in one end and opens it and when air goes in the other end it closes the valve and in turn brings the step in. The air flow is controlled by the relay Arcticdude was describing above. The Clippard Valve is available directly from Clippard.com. It is their part number UDR-40-4 1/2. It was $114.22 before shipping. It is made to order, so it is not an off the shelf order. It can not be rebuilt, so don't waste time thinking about a hydraulic shop rebuild. I also bought the RC-3281 install kit for $5.81. Total order was $139.90 with shipping and handling. Took about two weeks to get as I recall.

Now as to the air relay controller that controls the air flow into the Clippard, tracing the air lines from the Clippard takes you right to it. The input air line into that relay also controls the air stepwell cover in the bus. The replacement relay I used was AirTac Product No. 4V220-08. We got it off of eBay. Full eBay product description was "1/4" BSPT DC12V 4V220-08 Pneumatic Air Valve 5 Port 2 Position Solenoid". Cost was $30.08. Manufacturer is AirTac USA Corporation, 21401 Park Row Drive, Suite 340, Katy, TX 77449 Tel: 281-394-7177. Trust me on this: find their listing on eBay, as it will cost you more to buy it by calling them direct! The new air mufflers that control the air pressure or strength of the air flow to each port were also an eBay purchase. Full part description was "2pc Pneumatic Flow Control Exhaust Silencer 1/8" NPT Air Muffler Fitting". They were $19.98 for the pair. Generic package without the manufacturer or part number. Heck a good NAPA with heavy duty air fittings probably should also have the air mufflers. You can reuse the quick connect air line fittings on each part or get new ones from the local NAPA as you prefer. Please note, I do not know how these parts compare to John's part numbers above, but they work perfectly. The only point of note is that the relay is not an identical match to the original so it does not mount the same way. You can fabricate a fancy connection or you can use large strong tie wraps like I did to fasten it in the original mounting location (and as BB did for numerous other parts). It's out of the way, so it's not likely to get dismounted. By adjusting the air mufflers in/out, you can control the speed of the step opening and closing.

Once you have all the parts, the install is a piece of cake. I drive the bus up on stacked 2x12s to give me more room to work when working on things underneath. That way I don't have to worry about air leaks letting the chassis down while I'm under there.

It sure is nice not having the "sometimes works" step any more!

Good luck,
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