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I'm replacing the 1" chassis heater hoses in the engine bay, so while I'm doing that, I'm replacing the old boiler valves with the newer style ball valves. Question I have is around types. I am getting brass ball valves. What is there now is a combination of 90 degree elbows, 45 degree elbows, boiler valves, close nipples and smooth hose ends. Everything appears to be "black iron" or something similar. I was going to replace it all, but I'm finding some of this stuff is pricier than I expected, or hard to find. The 90 and 45 degree elbows are easily enough sourced, as are the close nipples. i wish they made valves with the nipples already on for fewer connections, but so be it. Not sure the best way to spin a close nipple in two pipes without messing up the threads?

The hard to find parts are the "smooth hose ends" where the 1" heater hose attaches to. I have found some barbed ones in brass, or smooth ones in brass (made in China unfortunately), the barbed are about $5 each, the smooth about $15! Needing 10, that isn't cheap. Plus, now I'm wondering about the combination of metals....black iron and brass mixed around. Could have black iron into block as a 90 elbow, then close nipple in black iron, then ball valve in brass, then 45 in black iron, then smooth hose end in brass. Does this matter mixing "metals" like this?
Hey Markus,

Just a quick reply, I'm kindof in the middle of things and I'll give your post a thorough reading later. But, I bought most my unions, valves, hose bibs, and whatnot from my local Covington Detroit Diesel Allison Service Center (Now owned by Clarke's). They have the right stuff. In my neck of the woods I have a local place called Asheville Powertrain which also had the pieces you describe. I guess I'd visit your local heavy diesel parts and service centers for this stuff. This way you can see it and handle it before you buy.

I prefer to use brass as does my local detroit diesel mechanic, but I don't see a problem with mixing brass with black iron. DD's long been screwing brass fittings into the cast iron engine blocks; although, I guess technically black iron isn't cast iron it's just iron with a protective "black rust" coating on it. My DD mechanic specifically warned against using galvanized iron, so I'd stay away from that. I don't think galvanic action is an issue when mixing black with cast with brass.

I seem to recall getting ball valves from DD that had integrated smooth hose bib ends.
Sounds like your doing a great job Markus. Very thorough. I hope your taking some pics. With the radiator out so many things are visible. It would be great if you could post some pics of the job progression.
Gary, I have a thread going over on WOG already, so I'm too lazy to duplicate it here. Plenty of pictures!
Hey Markus

Thanks for your reply and it is respected although I will admit it is interesting you are not to lazy to duplicate your request for assistance on WaGu. Which you received. None the less your thoughts are respected. Duly noted, and I am sure all the members here appreciate your effort and honesty and candor.
Back on track here, politics aside.....I decided how I'm replacing the stock "piping". I got Parker brass ball valves, as well as Parker brass water nipples, both in straight and 45 degree setup (see pictures). Then for the 90 degree elbows I will use cast iron for strength purposes. Mostly out of the block into the ball valves. Some of the ball valves are male threaded on one side and female threaded on the other side. That will save yet another connection (close nipple). The less connections I figured, the fewer leak points. I bought the Parker products online at http://www.mrostop.com. Arrived promptly.
That's pretty stuff Markus - way to go! Thanks for the tip on the vendor and the pics! Smile

BTW, did you receive your insulation and your 3M 8090 adhesive?
Insulation was picked up Wed and I got my share yesterday. Have to get the 3M adhesive still. Tons of parts have arrived over the past week so now its decision time as to what I tackle next.
What are you going to use as an insulating stand-off for things that are attached through the insulation?
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